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We've been travelling for seven years and have visited 80 countries. Slowest around the world with Sal & Wayne Schmidt.

Writer's pictureSal Schmidt

Hurtigruten Pole to Pole - Week seven

Updated: Dec 18, 2023


Week seven on our 13-week bucket list Pole to Pole cruise on the MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions, as we explore the East Coast jewels of Maine and arrive in Boston.

Day 43 - Eastport, Maine, US

As we crossed from Canada to the US this morning and were greeted with some tumultuous waters, the weather gods are on strike, a dramatic change from the day before.

Eastport has the deepest port on the East Coast, and this region is notorious for its high tides and powerful currents.

We don't let the weather get us down and are up bright and early to be cleared by US border control, who joined us on the ship this morning for a face-to-face and to stamp our entry.

Early afternoon, the weather was still challenging, blowing a gale with sideways rain; therefore, the expedition team cancelled the lobster boat trips; our fellow passengers would have sighed with relief, as the boats were not weather protected, and the waters were not inviting.


We dressed for the wet weather; our Canada Goose jackets were ideal for protecting us from the wind and rain, and we set out on foot to explore.


Fortunately, Eastport is only a little village with 1400 locals, so we swept up the Main Street, took in a few sites and were then drawn into Phoenix Fine Wines, a wine bar, not only by the name but the live Celtic band playing music invited us in.

We are warmly welcomed by the energetic and friendly owner, Laura, and the Celtic trio; we are in the right place.

We quickly settle in the cosy chairs near the band and floor-to-ceiling windows with a glass of red and enjoy the backdrop of the ever-changing tides of Passamaquoddy Bay; you can quickly while away in the afternoon.

We also ordered the cheese platter; all food products are sourced from local producers, including the cheese from the local goats, cows, and sheep. They have a selection of wines by the bottle, glass and small bites. We love supporting local businesses and are thrilled when they do.


Opened this July, the wine bar is like stepping back in time. The Irish folk music transports you back 100 years whilst relaxing in the beautiful wooded surroundings and antique furniture; think of an old mansion library surrounded by books to peruse.

The building was built in 1887 after the great fire 1886 decimated downtown Eastport. The buildings were home to various businesses over the last Century but were neglected in the 2nd Century and fell into disrepair. They have since been reborn as a brewery and wine bar for all to enjoy.


Huge glass pane windows with an everlasting view across the waters, music, atmosphere, comfort and smiles from the lovely owner, accompanied by great food and wine all wrapped up in one. She has the formula just right.

The locals were all very welcoming and loved hearing about our cruise and travels. We were grateful to have spent the afternoon in a beautiful wine bar to escape the rain and build memories of our visit to Eastport.

We were joined by our ship friends Daniel and Sylvia, and then we bid our farewells and escaped back to the safety and warmth of our ship.


Eastport would be a lovely little village to explore more when the weather is on our side.