Rocky Mountaineer Train Trip - Canada
- Wayne Schmidt
- Jul 18, 2022
- 6 min read
Updated: Jun 14
Rocky Mountaineer - Two Days
Does the Rocky Mountaineer luxury train trip through the Canadian Rockies live up to the hype? Well, yes and no.
Let's start with the 'Yes'; travelling in Gold Leaf, with its upper deck and glass ceiling, offers stunning views. It's a bucket list item, although it depends on your age.
Let me explain why this train trip has lost some of its shine.
We took the 'First Passage to the West' trip, which is marketed as 'Canada's favourite Rocky Mountain getaway. Come for the views; stay for the hot springs.'
Current pricing is CAD 5,400 for two people, AUD 6,000, or AUD 3,000 daily.
Does this deliver the value of a seven-night Alaskan cruise on a premium cruise line, which is currently around the same price?
No.
Let's be honest. This is a bucket list item. The average age is 70+, so the value does not matter.
We took the Vancouver to Banff Eastbound route.
On day one, you must arrive at the station between 6.45 and 7.15 am for an 8.00 am start.
It has a self-service coffee station; sorry, not a barrister in sight.
Stroll outside the train, and capture some beautiful photos before the crowds arrive.
By crowds, we mean that depending on the train's length (we had nearly 20 carriages), each wagon seats approximately 60 people.
From the onboard literature, the maximum recorded was 1,300+ passengers.
The journey starts with an all-aboard call, with a bagpiper playing, which was unique and special.
Here is where the first hiccup started: As we realised the guests' ages, we waited in the rain while the first person was assisted onto the train and transferred upstairs by the internal lift while 60 people queued up in the rain to board the carriage. It would have been more efficient to have this guest wait in the golf buggy until the queues had waned or board the guests needing assistance before boarding.
Yes, the carriages are divine. They are replacing the Gold Leaf rolling stock, so we luckily scored one of the ten carriages. These include upgraded fixtures and finishes, and are simply luxurious and beautiful.
Once boarded, you walk up the circular staircase (memories of the golden age of air travel with the onboard lounges on the top deck 747).
I'm not sure how you can select a seat. However, your travel agent may ensure you are allocated seats with an entire glass pane. Unlike ours, we were assigned seats with a substantial joint between windows. At $3,000 per day, I want that whole view experience.
The seats are simply divine. They are fully adjustable, with fine plush leather, a cushioned headrest, ample leg room, and the people in front of you, when they recline, will not encroach on your space.
The service team of four is impressive, considering it is shared over two levels, the bottom for dining and the top for seating.
The train leaves at 8:00 am, and the adventure begins at 8:00 am with an overview of the facilities from the ever-attentive team.
The dining room downstairs can only handle half the passengers, so the carriage is split into two groups for dining.
The first sitting starts at 8:30 am, the second at 108:30 a.m. Don't stress; a made-to-order pastry and beverages are served at 10:00 am while the first group enjoys breakfast downstairs in the lovely dining cart.
The journey builds like a crescendo, starting with views of a working city. It moves through the suburbs, onto the plains, and slowly reaches the mountains.
Breakfast was good. Remember, each carriage has its dedicated kitchen, so they cook for 60 people per carriage. Don't expect fine dining; it's banquet-style, where everyone's orders are taken and delivered as dishes are prepared.
The tables are shared, four to a table, so you'll get to meet and talk to great people from all walks of life.
Take some time to enjoy the first part of the journey. The crew will give you just the right amount of information on the landscape as you travel through it.
Spend time on the open-air platform downstairs; we loved the experience and feeling part of nature and landscapes as you speed by. However, the views are better from your seats on the upper floor.
The bar opens at 10:00 am, and let's say we took the opportunity at 10:00 to enjoy a finely made cocktail while relaxing and watching the world slowly pass by our window.
We didn't particularly like the complimentary wines, so we opted for a beautiful, reasonably priced French Chablis.
However, at this point, I'm confused about why Rocky Mountaineer persists with below-average wines (average $15 per bottle) when Canada produces some excellent wines.
You are given a unique lunch menu and choose your options daily. All meals are locally sourced from areas throughout the train trip. We found listening closely to the crew's recommendations essential to ensure you enjoy the best dishes.
A freshly cooked cookie is served around 4 pm, a nice touch.
The train rolls into Kamloops at 7:30 pm, and passengers board the buses. The journey takes about 20 minutes. The wait is very long; by the time you get to your hotel room, it's typically 8:30 pm.
One major disappointment was that you could not select your hotel. Our hotel didn't have a restaurant or room service, so if you had the midday lunch, it's now 8.30 pm with no options to 8.30 pm, you have a very early start the next day.
The accommodation was disappointing; we stayed at Fairfield Inn & Suites Kamloops (a 2-star hotel), which, in our opinion, does not offer Gold Leaf service at this price point.
Day two is where the adventure truly starts.
Another early start with the bus picking us up at 5.45 am.
Today, we decided to skip breakfast and catch up with a nap at 6:45 am when we board the train. Although the day starts with magical scenery, you must take turns napping.
On this day, we spent more time outside in the open-air viewing area, which was awe-inspiring. Many new friendships were made while enjoying the fresh mountain air and the journey.
Using one of the tips below, we scored a table just for ourselves while sipping a beautiful French Chablis and even slowing the meal service. We could not fault the service. The team was terrific!
The train stops outside Lake Louise for about 30 minutes to offload passengers. Unfortunately, you are behind the mountain, so don't expect any lake views. We were very disappointed with this, as one of the reasons we booked this train trip was because we understood we would also visit Lake Louise, which might have been careless on our behalf, a misunderstanding of the route.
We're now down to the home stretch and will arrive in Banff exhausted after two very long days.
We also waited another 30 minutes for the bus to load and drive us to our hotel, which was an 8-minute walk; it would have been nice to have been offered the walking option.
By this time, it's 8:30 pm, and in Banff, that's 8:30 pm. Only one thing: everything is nearly closed, and most restaurants close at 9 pm.
Banff is suffering from over-tourism, with a population of 8,000 receiving up to one million visitors per month in Summer.
The locals we talked to in Banff gave us the best advice: leave and stay in Canmore, which is only 20 minutes from Banff, has better dining and views and no tourists.
Insiders Tips
Most passengers miss parts due to sleeping because of the 12-hour days, so grab naps in the morning; the best views are on both afternoons.
It's a diesel train, so bring some wipes, as your face will be covered in soot from the engine when using the viewing area.
Ensure you have sunscreen if you're standing outside in the viewing area, as there will be plenty of sun on both days.
There is always a queue with only two toilets and sixty-plus older people, so avoid the pre- and post-lunch rush between 12 pm and 3 pm.
Getting a table for two at lunch? Two bench seats at the rear of the dining area seat only two people, which is ideal for romantics like Sally and me.
Make sure you find out your eating time, walk down 5 minutes before opening, and then request one of those tables—boom, a romantic table for two.
Book a restaurant before getting into Banff; even our hotel restaurant was closed at 8.30 pm.
Our verdict
We wait until 8:30 pm. It's up to you to make the decision.
We all have different travel styles, needs, and wants. Definitely, 'Yes' if you're looking for a bucket list item and have the means, do it. The Rocky Mountains are mesmerising.
If you're younger, we recommend considering your options and taking an Alaskan cruise; it will provide you with a much better value experience.
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