Admiralty Bay | Paradise Bay | Half Moon Island Welcome back to Antarctica; something we never thought was possible, three visits this Summer! It had only been a few months since we last set foot, kayaked and sailed through Antarctica (pics below from 1st visit). To have the opportunity to cruise through the last unspoilt and southernmost continent another two times on our 110-day voyage with Oceania Cruises was a dream come true (again and again). A brief journal of our second visit through the stunning Antarctic Peninsula and loads of videos and photos for us all to reminisce about the beautiful collection of moments. Wilhelmina Bay (January 2023) Antarctica, you have continued to provide a mystical environment. This morning, as we woke in Wilhelmina Bay (the same place we navigated the icebergs in zodiacs feeling the full brunt of the snow and rain as Summer was approaching Antarctica in November), Antarctica has filled our hearts and all senses with pure joy! Oceania, you have genuinely brought Antarctica's breathtaking and moody beauty to our balcony, the magnificent raw nature, and the incredible marine life of this world's wonder in all its glory to us. We were grateful for the dulcet tones of Dr Peter Carey, the Antarctic Zoologist, at 7 am to introduce our surroundings and all the wildlife sightings they have been experiencing this morning. We showered immediately and were on the top deck to immerse ourselves in the serene waters and magical Antarctic scenery, as we recalled, but even more awe-inspiring this time. In November, we were too early for the whales, but low and beheld late January, all these majestic creatures surrounded us; there were humpback whales bubble feeding, listening to them as they alert us to their presence with their blowholes, watching their graceful moves through the water was another moment we would keep with us forever, the moody skies were a perfect backdrop as the whales nourished themselves around the ship and followed us, we were all mesmerised. We returned to our room later in the morning to enjoy passing by the enormous icebergs enveloped by the continent's mainland, passing Orne Harbour and cruising Curverville Island, more whale sightings and rafts of penguins porpoising along. It was pure joy, and it wasn't even lunchtime. Lunchtime, we were spoilt with more of the majestic white wonder landscapes, with the sun filtering through, Gentoo and Chinstrap penguin colonies and more whales passing by over yet another delightful meal as we made our way to Paradise Bay for the evening. Antarctic Sound & Deception Island (January 2023) Antarctica shows us her true colours once again today. The skies opened up, and snow blessed us all with her presence. We couldn't be more thrilled; you don't come to the South Pole and not experience the white magic glitter! Just a little on last night, we enjoyed the most fabulous dinner in Polo Grill on the best table at the Bow with incredible evening views and more delicious culinary dishes accompanied by a mouthwatering Italian red and beautiful service from our dear cruise staff and friends. To close the evening, dusk time shared more moments of pure beauty as she spotlighted the scenery and spoilt us with a rare but beautiful sunset at 11 pm (with whales passing) over the bergs as darkness was upon us! As we entered Antarctic Sounds, we pulled the drapes open early. The atmosphere was moody and overcast, yet the sun was fighting through to shine on the gigantic icebergs scattered around us. The iceberg display provided us with a beautiful morning entertainment show as the ship sailed around these sparkling and colourful pieces of ice whilst enjoying the narrative from Dr Peter Carey on all the deets on the bergs! Later in the morning, we headed westward towards Deception Island to catch a glimpse of the active volcanic island, also home to a vast penguin colony and other sea life. With two visits, we were able to experience it under very different weather conditions. Over our slow lunch, we enjoyed more delicious bites in the grand dining room, where Antarctica came out to play and made sure we were fully aware of her as the snow joined us. It continued to get stronger and heavier as we approached Deception Island, hindering the view. Fortunately, the captain was an expert and using his skills and expertise, he held us in a stationary position, and it cleared up just enough so we could all catch a glimpse or two of the thousands and thousands of penguins and fur seals decorating the volcanic earth on the water's edge. Even better glimpses if you had super-powered binoculars, which we are fortunate to have in our little hot hands. Deception Island is home to 140,000 pairs of chinstrap penguins. Penguins are always counted in pairs. It was quite the sight, and we were all buzzing with joy. The snow and wind were picking up, so the ocean showed us who was boss, so it was time to forge our way to the Drake Passage. Wish us luck over the next 36 hours as we cross the great Drake Shake, or will we be blessed with the Drake Lake? I will let you work out which one it was this night... A fun fact: Antarctica has the highest average elevations in the world; it's a place where the mountains are dripping with glaciers, breathtaking landscapes, gigantic icebergs and a nesting pot of marine and bird life that will keep you mesmerised for days on end. You can spend hours watching the dramatic splashes on the bergs, the waves breaking over it, the ice calvings whilst the ship navigates through the calm (and suddenly not so calm) waters and all the bergie bits, as you are joined by Wilson's storm petrel dancing and gliding around the ship. To top it off, you have rafts of penguins porpoising alongside seals and whales feeding in the icy cold waters, too! Pure joy! Let's not forget the Drake Passage. The Drake Passage is the body of water between South America's Cape Horn, Chile, Argentina and the South Shetland Islands of Antarctica, 1000 km wide, connecting the Atlantic and Pacific oceans between Cape Horn. Three visits to Antarctica this Summer means six sailings of the Drake Passage; some would say we are a glutton for punishment; surprisingly, three of the four on these past two sailings were a Drake Lake, and only one Drake Shake with 6-7m waves, it was a rough night, but thrilling all the same. The weather is always unpredictable, with icy cold wintery days in the depths of Antarctica, followed by glass-like waters and sunshine the following day, or rapidly changing winds accompanied by snow. There is something unique about being in Antarctica and experiencing snowfall; we were all like kids in a fun park when it happened whilst sailing through. We loved seeing it change over the three months from November to February, the change of scenery, and the snow disappearing on some of the mountains. It is a bucket list adventure we hold very close to our hearts. Thank you, Antarctica, Oceania and Hurtigruten, for the opportunity and memories made.

Punta del Este | Montevideo In late January, we arrived in Uruguay with Oceania Cruises. Punta del Este and Montevideo feature on the itinerary several times over the next few months. Punta del Este, Uruguay Welcome to Punta del Este in Uruguay, which is the country sitting between Brazil and Argentina. Uruguay is country No.64 for us! Punta del Este is a chic fishing village and the St Moritz of Uruguay; you are surrounded by super yachts (and sea lions and seals) as you arrive, a beautiful marina and streets filled with restaurants and bars for all to soak up the lovely atmosphere. As soon as we walked off the tender boat, we were greeted by these gigantic sea lions chilling out and relaxing on the pier; we were all filled with joy! After three months on an expedition cruise, we never got the chance to see such marine life so close, and here we wander off the tender on a cruise ship with over 1000 people, and we are meters away! Magical. Once the excitement of watching the sea lions, we wandered the port to the fish market and were gifted with another seal show, all the fishermen feeding the seals the fish guts and even giving the onlookers a go; it was fascinating! We followed this with a stroll up the street and to hunt out a fabulous spot for lunch, Zuzu Puerto, which we soon found as we needed to quench our thirst and hide from the sun and high humidity and relax; we found the perfect restaurant, the staff were full of positive energy, the food was exceptional, and they had Pisco Sours, so we were in our happy place. After a long lunch, we strolled back to the ship (as we will be back in Punta del Este a few more times next month) to explore more. We were presented with another beautiful surprise walking back: a lovely, lazy, big sea lion soaking up the sun, the same we were escaping from earlier. We propped ourselves nearby and enjoyed being close and personal while keeping our distance to avoid disrupting him. We enjoyed watching this incredible sea lion chill out; he (or she) always had one eye open to watch all the onlookers. Uruguay, you are already impressive, and we can't wait to explore more of you. We returned to Punta del Este several times during February and March and loved each visit's welcoming party. We couldn't get enough of the cuteness of the sea lions in their natural habitat and be in such proximity to them. We also stumbled on a lovely cafe called LaRebelion. The gorgeous team gave us the warmest of welcomes, with a great selection of fresh organic food, delicious empanadas and coffee. We loved the cosy and relaxing atmosphere and energy, along with the beautiful views over the marina; we dropped in on future port days in Punta del Este to say hello and be nourished with goodness. Montevideo, Uruguay It is a coastal city of beautiful architecture, colourful historic buildings, some derelict, some a renovator delight, and others already transformed to a stately home, pedestrian and cobblestoned walks and green parks and squares, whilst being enveloped by the ocean waters on either side of the city. Montevideo, the capital of Uruguay, is a city full of energy and life; as you leave the port, you can immerse yourself in the local food market, which is a gorgeous old warehouse now home to many restaurants serving the local meat, in every which way accompanied by wine from Uruguay, a new little fun fact: Uruguay makes wine! We look forward to exploring the wineries over our next two stops and sampling the delicious meats; we have heard rumours that it is even better than Argentina! In the charming old city, you have an abundance of eclectic cafes and bars lining the vibrant sidewalks decorated with street art to guide you. During this visit, we explored the city on foot. We enjoyed the city's spirit by savouring an Aperol Spritz on the edge of the unique food market, wishing we had more time to sample the delicious BBQ meat we smelled as we walked on by. Here is a little history lesson: At first, Montevideo was simply a tiny Spanish military fort built in 1714 to counter Portugal's expansion of Brazil. However, settlers were not enticed; the Spanish governor in Buenos Aires, Don Mauricio Zabala, offered cattle and land to the first groups that would come and lay the foundations of a town. Among the earliest to arrive were families from the Canary Islands, who sailed into the small bay and came ashore in 1726. Over the following decades, Montevideo slowly became an important trade port between the "Old and New World". In the late 1700s, Montevideo had developed into one of South America's most essential and profitable ports. Montevideo is a popular cruise ship destination; we loved watching Costa depart and breathe in as they expertly manoeuvred the ship from port. Upon leaving Montevideo one evening in February, it was time to farewell some of our dear friends and crew. Still, we were grateful to celebrate over more fantastic food and wine in Privee, followed by drinks with more of our beloved fellow guests. New friendships are formed, and one of the best parts of travel is the beautiful humans you meet; we are always busy planning when our paths cross again. During one port day in Montevideo, we needed to visit a GP quickly for a prescription. We researched Hospital Britanico with English-speaking doctors, also known as The British Hospital, which has been in the Old City since 1857 and is known as The Foreign Hospital in Uruguay. We arrived by Uber, and upon entering, we were greeted with warmth. All the staff were very helpful in leading us to the correct health department. We were impressed with the care, expertise, and modern facilities. We could book an appointment with only one hour to wait, which we enjoyed over lunch in the beautiful cafe for visitors; surprisingly, there was table service and a full menu to order freshly cooked meals. The GP was excellent and efficient, the modern and stylish facilities and furnishings were world-class, and the cost to visit the GP was less than 100 USD for a foreigner. The hospital also features a museum of historic medical tools and equipment displayed throughout the hospital halls, reminding us how far the medical industry has evolved. Our next adventure is 'The Falklands'. Join us as we attempt to go ashore to a new and challenging destination as we continue our 110-day journey with Oceania Cruises, the circumnavigation of South America.

Rio de Janeiro | Buzios | Ilha Grande | Santos | Itajai The first few weeks of 2023 were about exploring the Southern Brazilian coast and finally setting foot in Rio aboard the Marina with Oceania Cruises. Highlights were celebrating my 45th Birthday with a beautiful group of humans whom we now call dear friends from Oceania, reacquainted with old friends from Rio, and new friends from Santos. Rio, Brazil Rio needs no introduction; we all have heard about the famous Copacabana Beach and the Christ of Redeemer perched up on a hill overlooking the city and Sugarloaf Mountain. Rio is a highly populated and cosmopolitan city fringed with white sandy beaches surrounded by rich green jungle and mountains; it truly is unique. Rio has been on our list for as long as we can remember, and we have been trying over the past ten years to visit our friends we met 12 years ago in Melbourne. It was never the best time to visit; finally, with the newly elected president, it was looking brighter (unfortunately, as we were leaving, it was disheartening to hear about the protests), we are praying it settles down, and life will progress in a more friendly way for all Brazilians. We arrived at lunchtime in Rio; it was a lovely sail-in as we cruised by Sugarloaf Mountain and docked in the city's heart. The weather was not on our side, but we had plans to see our friends. The rain was a perfect excuse to settle in for a slow lunch at Cococabana Palace, an iconic hotel on the beach - Thank you, Aluizio, for working your magic with free-flowing Caprinhas and live Samba music as we spent the afternoon catching up with our dear friends, it felt like only yesterday we all met back in Melbourne 12 years ago. It was a lunch full of moments; we laughed, sang, danced, and met new friends accompanied by local cocktails and food. We also provided everyone with some quality entertainment (let's be honest - comedy) whilst being invited to dance! As the evening was upon us, it was time to see a little more of Rio, so we had a tour of the famous coastline and made it to the gondola at dusk to rise over the city to visit Sugarloaf Mountain. The city lights were all popping up, and the rain was settling, so the skies were clearing to show us this fabulous city. We enjoyed a few hours taking in the views and enjoying the atmosphere; the first tourist attraction we had seen where the young ones go up to party the night away; there were pop-up bars, clubs even a beer and tattoo parlour (it was busy), it was quite the buzz. We bid our beautiful friends farewell and felt grateful to have spent the day together creating more memories. Thank you, Aluizio and Fernando; we promise to return in a few years and not leave it another 12! Buzios, Brazil Today is a celebration; it is my 45th Birthday. Happy Birthday to me! We love celebrating in a new destination each year, and this year was in Buzios and was perfect! Buzios is the St Tropez of Brazil, a charming little town full of beach resorts with an island vibe. It was the perfect place to celebrate as we were spoilt with fine restaurants decorating the seaside Buzios was also put on the map as it was Brigette Bardot's favourite spot! Our first task was a tidy up, we needed a fresh haircut, and we were fortunate to find a cute little salon on a back street where we had some fun conversing. Still, the energy was so positive we all kept laughing at each other as we could all understand one way or another! The next stop was to find a place for cocktails and lunch; we couldn't pass up this popular restaurant, 'Canto Resto', on the beach, and again were super impressed. The cocktails were perfection, the food was divine, and we even had a Moroccan Tajine, our fave! Buzios is a place for people who appreciate good food, so as lovers of food, we knew we would feel at home with French, Italian, Moroccan, Thai and other restaurants to please the most demanding tastes. The vast amount of foreigners that came for a weekend but ended up staying is the reason for the diversity, having brought the secrets and spices from their countries. The service was super friendly and kind, we needed some help translating our local phone app to top up our internet, and our young waiter Juan was so helpful he even popped the recharge on his debit card, and we paid him back in cash! Thank you, Juan! Following lunch, we found a lovely boutique and purchased some pieces to ensure we blend in on the ship and always look presentable! A perfect day in Buzios, another place on the list to return to; there were too many places to try and sample in one day! We would love to spend at least a week in this popular holiday gem! Birthday dinner was; next, we were honoured to receive an invitation from the GM of the ship, accompanied by the Loyalty Ambassadors and the executive concierge in Privee, a private dining room seating only ten on the ship. The dinner was an absolute delight; we all had the most enjoyable evening, delicious food, wine and company. It was the perfect birthday celebration; feeling very spoilt by the incredible team and for the magnificent birthday cake! New friendships were made, lots of laughter as we shared our stories and travel moments; we are looking forward to spending three months with everyone! Feeling incredibly grateful to be surrounded by the kindest of humans and beautiful souls; thank you, Evan, Holly, Alex, Elizeu (and hubby, of course) and the delightful Oceania team for making my Birthday one to remember and filling our hearts with joy! Day 24 - Ilha Grande, Brazil Ilha Grande is an island off the Rio de Janeiro state, Brazil coast. The island remains largely undeveloped. For almost a century, the Brazilian government closed it to free movement or settlement because it first housed a leper colony and then a top-security prison. Candido Mendes high-security prison housed some of the most dangerous prisoners within the Brazilian penal system. It was closed in 1994. The largest village on the island is called Vila do Abraão, with approximately 1900 inhabitants. It is a very picturesque fishing village, surrounded by beautiful green hills. Except for Abraão's lone garbage truck, fire engine and police vehicle, cars are prohibited in town, so the only transport is by foot or boat. We popped on a tender around lunch to explore the island; it was busy with tourists but was very charming. The beachfront was full of restaurants and bars, but once you popped a street back, there were cute boutiques and casual restaurants as you walked the dirt tracks. We continued further to catch a glimpse of local life and capture the personality and colours of the local village. Once we explored, it was time to settle in for some local codfish balls and a few Caipirinha cocktails; they were the best yet! A beautiful perspective as we strolled back to the tender overlooking this charming village before tendering back to the ship for sail-away. Santos, Brazil Today was one of those special days; it was a day filled with laughter, joy, happiness, new friendships and amazing food and wine. It all started with a dear friend from Melbourne letting us know her cousins live in Santos, and they would love to meet us and show us their home through their eyes. We said absolutely! The lovely Andre and Ana picked us up from the port, and we were instant friends. Santos is only half hour from São Paulo, home to 17 million people and spanning over 3,000 square miles; São Paulo is the third-largest city in the world. The warm climate and red clay soil surrounding the city are perfect for growing coffee. With the arrival of the railway in 1867, large-scale cultivation took hold. Today, São Paulo is one of the largest coffee exporters in the world. As the coffee industry grew, so did the need for labour. São Paulo was one of the first cities in Brazil to encourage immigration actively. It has evolved into an exciting melting pot of cultures. São Paulo is the commercial heart of Brazil. They had planned to take a ferry across to a beautiful beach, and we could enjoy a lazy lunch, but the universe had other plans; with the traffic queue for the ferry, we decided to make the most of the time we had ashore, so our hands were straight up when they suggested a Churrascaria, a traditional Brazilian restaurant, most will recall the 'go/stop' coasters if they have been to one outside of Brazil, and you can eat and sample as much meat as possible. The roving servers deliver barbecued meats from large skewers directly onto your plate. We had this on our list, so we couldn't wait! We had a blast getting to know each other and felt incredibly grateful to Linda Rise for bringing us together. Once our bellies were full of delicious meats, we were back in the car for a quick drive through the favela and up to a hidden lookout spot over the city, where you can also paraglide. However, after hearing a few stories from Andre best to skip this activity, but the views were sensational over Santos. Following our lookout, we decided to spend our last hour on the beach soaking up the local life and enjoying a local Caipirinha; you can buy everything on the beach and even pay by card! It was time to head back to the ship, we made plans to catch up again with our new friends in Miami in a few months, as we would both be there at the same time, so we bid farewell and sailed away. A perfect day in Santos, one that filled our hearts with joy, it's always about the experiences and moments; this is the part of travel that remains with you forever. Itajai, Brazil Our last day in Brazil was in Itajai. The City of Itajai has many beautiful beaches where visitors can sun, swim, and enjoy the good life. Peaceful rural settings with natural landscapes and a rich heritage from Portuguese and German immigrants surround it. We chose to spend our last destination in Brazil at a beach club called Pargus in the chic area of Praia Brava; we jumped on Google and found a beautiful beach club. Uber dropped us off, and we arrived to be presented with an entry bracelet and settled in to sample the cocktails and Greek cuisine whilst listening to the resident DJ. We received a very warm welcome and enjoyed the afternoon just chilling and taking in the atmosphere; it was a fun place and a destination we could return to (most are). Farewell to Brazil; you have definitely shown us your best and beauty, and we can't wait to be back to explore you more, but for now, we must continue our adventures, and Uruguay is next on the itinerary with Oceania Cruises on our 110-day voyage around South America. Our next adventure is 'Uruguay' as we continue the circumnavigation of South America with Oceania Cruises on our 110-day voyage.

Today is a beautiful day. So grateful to have celebrated 18 of your birthdays so far. I am looking forward to continuing to travel the world with you. You are the most wonderful woman in the world, my wife. I am so grateful for your unconditional love and support. Your beautiful smile lights up a room, and kindness radiates from you. The past 18 years have been filled with love and laughter; I wouldn't trade that for anything. Happy Birthday, my love!

Recife | Maceio | Salvador After spending a week on the Amazon River in Brazil, enjoying Christmas and New Year's Eve aboard the Marina with Oceania Cruises, we continue exploring the Northern coast of Brazil. Recife, Brazil After two days navigating out of the Amazon River and two days sailing the Atlantic, including crossing the equator again (this time, we could skip the ritual as we were no longer equator virgins), we arrived at our first port of call Recife. Recife is pronounced ('heh-see-fee'), a coastal city and the capital of Pernambuco, the Northeast State of Brazil. Recife is closer to Africa's west coast than the farthest western border of Brazil—just 8°3' south of the equator. After letting the passengers disembark throughout the morning, we then strolled off around noon, we had the option to take a shuttle to the city of Recife, but after experiencing the high humidity, we opted for an Uber to the nearby charming and far more tranquil historic town of Olinda that lies on Recife's northern edge, just 6km from the city centre. We googled our way to an Asian restaurant, 'Oishi', with very positive reviews by the beach, which deserved the 4.3 ratings. We filled our bellies with a giant spring roll, the largest we have ever seen, followed by vegetable tempura and shared a dish of Chop Suey for two; upon arrival, we were guessing we ordered for four! We did our best and admitted defeat, but it was delicious and excellent value at AUD 40 with a couple of cocktails too. After lunch, we strolled the beach, watching the local life and enjoying the holidays and came across a shopping mall, brand new, so it was great to cool off and purchase our essentials! We might have missed out on seeing more of Recife, we did enjoy the architecture and colourful homes as we drove by, but we had a delightful day and loved supporting the local businesses and navigating a new language; thankfully, we have Google translate helping with our Portuguese. Maceio, Brazil Welcome to Maceio; it feels like a city surrounded by beaches. Where you will find local tourists enjoying their vacations. Think Pattaya in Thailand. You have a long stretch of coast on the main road full of beach activities, beach beds, umbrellas, and beach clubs. It was buzzing with locals and families all enjoying the hot and humid sun by the water; it's where everyone has a drink in hand by 10 am, and you can buy everything from drinks, food, clothing and beach accessories whilst sunbaking. We stopped by a beach club for a morning coffee; we could only enter if we paid the all-day entrance fee of about $13 each, so we did this to watch the world go by for an hour or so! After our chill-out, we walked a little and returned to the ship for lunch to escape the heat! Maceio was a much wealthier city, with safer and excellent infrastructure and a great nightlife based on the vibe. Maceió is the capital city of the state of Alagoas, on the east coast of Brazil. An offshore reef protects the city; the shore is lined with white-sand beaches, palm trees, and many beautiful and tranquil beaches within a half-hour drive. Salvador, Bahia, Brazil You know how much you love a city based on the number of pics you need to clean up, and Salvador was clearly a favourite for Wayne and me. We researched Salvador the evening prior, and we were filled with excitement. It was the former capital of Brazil for two centuries before relinquishing to Rio in 1763 (then Brasilia); it is a vibrant architectural colonial rich city. A blend of Portuguese and African heritage blending seamlessly. Salvador sits on Brazil's South Atlantic coast, in the idyllic state of Bahia, home to some of northeastern Brazil's most beautiful beaches, over 1000kms of coconut fringed beaches and a popular culinary hub. With the largest population of Afro-Brazilians and a complex mishmash of African, Indigenous, and European influences, Salvador has earned the local nickname "the Black Rome." After disembarking, we set our sights on the historic centre of Pelourinho, full of cobblestoned alleys, beautiful colourful architecture and churches. We enjoyed strolling around and soaking up the energy, local cuisines and the African influence. It was bustling with tourists, a few ships were in, and quite the police presence to make everyone feel more secure. After the sweltering humidity got the better of us, we made our way to the restaurant we had planned for a slow lunch. After being caught in the rain (it is the wet season), we walked in looking quite the treat to the restaurant. Fortunately, the drowned rat appearance was approved, and we were seated, quickly freshening up in the restrooms to feel more presentable. We decided on an Italian restaurant in the Fasano Hotel, a beautiful luxury hotel brand in Brazil, originating from an Italian family. The hotel was on the top of the street overlooking the splendid water's edge in a century-old colonial building. The decor was also plantation-style, with relaxed and comfortable furniture surrounded by beautiful wooden hues. We settled in for a culinary journey; the menu looked so delicious we opted for the five-course degustation of meat-based pasta dishes with a lovely bottle of red, and a few cocktails pre and post, which were a pleasant surprise! It was the perfect introduction to Salvador and a place on our list to return and spend more quality time. An abundance of dining options and cocktail bars spoilt with magical views around the city of four million, and we haven't even scratched the surface. Pop Salvador on your list; we can't wait to unwrap this gem of a city in Brazil. Join us for our next 'Brazil' chapter as we continue cruising southerly the Brazilian border with Oceania Cruises on our 110-day voyage around South America.

Santarem | Parintins | Manaus After four days at sea from the Caribbean on our 110-day cruise from Miami, we arrive on the Amazon River in Brazil to spend Christmas and bring 2023, the new year aboard the beautiful Marina with Oceania Cruises. Santarem, Brazil Yesterday was Christmas Day, which saw us sail into the Amazon River; we spent a day in awe of the vastness of the river and the colour change as we celebrated Christmas in a new country. We all woke with a little jolt as the ship ran aground, but we were back on our way after a few hours. The Amazon travels through four countries at 4,345 miles in length and holds more water than any other; the Amazon River has no equal significance to the global ecosystem. It is one of the world's longest, feeding and nurturing the equally remarkable rainforest surrounding it. The enormous rainforest covers over 2 million square miles and is credited with harbouring roughly one-third of all species of living creatures. As we cruised more, plunging into the Amazon, our first destination was Santarem, where the rivers meet. Two rivers surround Santarém: the Amazon, of muddy water, and the Tapajós, of clear and green water, forming a unique meeting of different waters that do not mix for several kilometres; it was pretty surreal. The "Meeting of Waters" phenomenon occurs due to temperature, speed and water density differences. We were booked on a boat cruise afternoon excursion today; we wanted to see more of the Amazon and get up close and personal, so we skipped the city. We were all aboard, about 20 of us making our way through the meeting of the waters, watching the local life on the water pass us by. It was interesting to see how the locals transit between towns; their seats are hammocks on boats and can take up to a few days to arrive. There were fuel stations out on the river for all the boat life and, surprisingly, dolphins in freshwater, pink and blue; we were lucky to catch a few glimpses as we navigated the rivers. About one hour in, we arrived at a narrow part and enjoyed the change of pace as we navigated slowly, taking in the peacefulness and new landscapes of the Amazon and pinching ourselves. We were in The Amazon, another Bucket list! Our captain found a shady spot on the river's edge, and it was time to all test our skills for Piranha fishing. It has been a while since I have been fishing or yabbying, so this would be interesting! They were kind enough to have the wooden reel tackled up for us, which would help avoid any accidents! Over the lines went, and we all spent an hour trying to catch a little one. Only two were seen amongst us all (Wayne & I were not successful), and they were tiny little ones who were returned to their natural habitat. After our fishing experience, we were to head back up the river; again, we ran aground, and our crew were immersed in piranha waters to push us out; it was an eventful afternoon. As we returned during the golden hour, we were blessed with more sightings of the dolphins, including the majestic pink dolphins, a first! Unfortunately, capturing it is difficult, but the memories will remain with us. After a long and hot afternoon, we were ready to freshen up and enjoy cocktails before dinner. Day ten - Parintins, Brazil Wayne and I love capturing the personality of a city, and today, in Parintins, we did just this. After arriving by tender boat at the pier, we turned left whilst everyone else turned right to get lost and unwrap the layers of the city street by street. As we followed the paths, we discovered the vibrant street art on the homes, shop fronts, and streets. Parintins is home to an unusual number of artists, artisans, musicians, and poets who produce the festival. You will find such a concentration of talent in no other city on the Amazon. The architecture of the homes and churches was unique, and the local life surrounded us. Everyone was an absolute joy, and we smiled and waved as we walked by. I realised we needed to learn a few phrases in Portuguese as this is now the local language. The city was operating as a public holiday the day after Christmas, so it was quiet, and only a few stores were open. After a few hours, we found our way back to the ship and spotted a few local young lads fishing by the water edge with a net and a bag to collect them. They gave us all a show and launched the net by the boats, and we watched them in awe as they pulled out a selection of fish for their bag! Fun fact: In Parintins, everything revolves around the ox, the 'Boi Bumba'. An ancient fairy tale from the Amazon tells the story of the pregnant Catirina who suddenly desires to eat beef tongue. Her husband Francisco kills his master's best ox and is imprisoned for the crime. After a lengthy imprisonment, Francisco is finally freed because Paje, a medicine man and witch, brings the ox back to life. There is an 86-year-old rivalry between the two Boi groups; the Garantido club uses red, and the Caprichoso club uses blue. This friendly and creative rivalry between the two Bois (oxen) is contagious and has divided northern Brazil into two camps. The houses of Parintins are all painted red or blue. The public telephones, the tickets, the clothes, everything is either red or blue. Even the event's main sponsor, Coca-Cola, had to invent a new logo for Parintins. People refer to the rival club simply as the "others". Manaus, Brazil Welcome to Manaus, the heart of Amazonia, 900 miles inland on the Rio Negro from the Atlantic and home to the famed Amazon Opera House. Also, it is just a few miles from the meeting of the rivers. We have heard about the Opera House from many fellow travellers. Hence, we opted for the Golden Era of Manaus tour to tick this off. In hindsight, we should have opted to do the city independently as we became trapped on tour with the guide and 40 other passengers, also receiving a detailed history lesson on each visit, which extended the allowed time and became a very long day, without any free time to explore, eat or relax, definitely not Sal & Wayne style. Back to the tour, our first visit was to Museu da Cidade, a museum in a neoclassical palace featuring hands-on exhibits tracing the culture & history of Manaus. This was supposed to be a 20-minute visit, which lasted over one hour. Following the museum, we arrived at Teatro Amazonas (Opera House), where we needed to wait out the front for 20 minutes before we could enter; we took a few snaps, and then we all entered the historical building from 1896 for a one-hour tour, it was impressive to see! Partway through the tour, we snuck off to visit the cafe and fuel up to get through the remainder! A few other passengers had the same idea. Our guide soon came to rush us back to the bus for the next instalment, a visit to an old mansion built in 1903, Palacio Rio Negro. Palácio Rio Negro is a former seat of government and residence of the governor of the state of Amazonas. The original name was Scholz Palace, built by the German entrepreneur Karl Waldemar Scholz, who was considered a "Rubber Baron". We were nearing the end of the tour, and the last stop was a visit to the local municipality market; we took advantage of our 'free time' of 20 minutes and sourced an ATM and phone shop to purchase a prepaid SIM to stay connected; this caused a few hiccups as Brazil time is anything, but fast, so we asked our guide if we could walk back to the ship; the response was 'No' again, and we had 3 minutes to get back to the bus full of passengers! There was only so much we could do to expedite the purchasing process, and soon, he was storming up the stairs to personally escort us; I had no idea how he found us in the busy centre, but he had his contacts! We returned to the bus (successfully purchasing the sim) and were greeted with a bus full of passengers waiting to go home! Very pleasant! The bus drove the two minutes to the pier, and we were back on the tenders heading for the ship! We quickly cancelled all future tours and chose to stay with the 'Sal & Wayne' style of discovering destinations independently and with flexibility! We are just no good with rules and restrictions. Manaus was quite an intense city, with high poverty, pollution, rundown, and significantly populated, so you need to have your wits about you. Uber was available to help you get from A to B safely and comfortably. Manaus, Brazil The ship stayed overnight in Manaus, so we all enjoyed a peaceful night on the Amazon. We opted to cancel our full-day excursion to the meeting of the rivers based on fellow passengers' feedback, having decided this would not be Wayne and Sal style. We chose to remain on the ship for the day and enjoy the quiet time to catch up on work. We were blessed with a beautiful sunset as we set sail to navigate our way out of the Amazon. Day 13 - Amazon River, Brazil Today was a day of enjoying cruising the Amazon River and making the most of the views from the balcony. It was also New Year's Eve, so a perfect excuse to pop open a bottle of champagne to celebrate another exciting year of travel. Here are a few fun facts about the Amazon to soak up with some cruising captures from the day as we travelled to the Atlantic Ocean and cruised south. The Amazon is the world's largest tropical rainforest; it covers 40% of the South American continent and is home to over 2,000 species of animals. One in ten known species in the world lives in the Amazon Rainforest, as do one in five known bird species, meaning one-third of the world species can be found in the Amazon. Some animals that live in the Amazon include jaguars, sloths, river dolphins, macaws, anacondas, glass frogs, and poison dart frogs and the most famous residents of the Amazon River, the Amazon river dolphin or boto, which can grow more significant than a human. It is unknown why the river pink dolphins develop their distinct pink colouration, but it is thought it is due to blood capillaries near the skin's surface. The electric eel is the only known species in the electric fish genus. Despite its name, it is not an eel but a knife fish. They are more closely related to catfish than they are to eels. They can produce powerful electric shocks of up to 600 volts as a defence mechanism and for hunting. Known for their unusual breeding behaviour, in the dry season, the male constructs a nest from his saliva into which the female lays her eggs. As many as 3,000 young can hatch from the eggs of one female. The Black Caiman is the largest of the Amazon reptiles and one of the largest and most effective predators. They have dark, scaly skin, grow up to 10-14 feet in length, and sometimes exceed 800 pounds in weight. They hunt pretty much any land-based or river-dwelling animal. They've even been known to eat old or weak Caimans. The evening was filled with fun moments with our dear cruise friends and more mouthwatering food on the beautiful Marina. Join us for our next 'Brazil' chapter as we continue cruising southerly the Brazilian border with Oceania Cruises on our 110-day voyage around South America.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays from the Amazon River in Brazil to our wonderful world of family and friends from near, far and with the angels. We wish you the most magical time with your loved ones. May it be filled with love, fun, fabulous food, wine and precious moments. We are sending an extra big cuddle to all our beautiful loved ones who are missing someone special this year; you are in our hearts. It has been a year of adventure, and bucket lists ticked. We started the year with our Serbian family in beautiful Belgrade and a getaway to Kopaonik in a luxury log cabin, followed by a few months exploring Turkey's east coast, then pop back to Serbia to bid our farewells to embark on the celebration of Wayne turning 60. After a quick stopover in Zagreb, Croatia, we were in Paris to make our way to Loire Valley to celebrate a dear friend Jo's 50th in France, and we even snuck in a week in the champagne region Reims. Followed by a month of Canada and the Rockies, and feeling blessed we could spend Wayne's 60th with our dear Lins and Trev in their hometown of Calgary. Next was a three-month expedition cruise from the North to the South Pole and Canada to Argentina. This allowed us to explore Argentina for a month, a quick stopover in Bolivia, before embarking on another few months at sea from Miami to South America and spending Christmas and New Year cruising the Amazon on the incredible Marina with Oceania, another bucket list! Two thousand twenty-two travel moments and highlights. We visited five continents, 17 countries, and 100 destinations. Our highlights were Alaska, Antarctica, Iguazu Falls, Kayaking in Antarctica, Reims, Rocky Mountaineer train trip, landing via a helicopter on a glacier in Alaska, Ice-trekking on and inside a glacier in Argentina, and Panama Canal, to name just a few. 2022 has been a year full of magical moments! We wish everyone a happy holiday, and may you continue chasing your dreams and your 2023 be filled with achieving your goals, hopes and dreams. A special thank you to the team on Marina, Oceania and our dear cruise friends Pip and Dave, who have filled us with joy and made our Christmas unique and fun this year.

St. Maarten | St Lucia We arrived in the Caribbean two days after leaving Miami on our 110-day cruise, sailing southbound to South America in preparation for our circumnavigation aboard the beautiful Marina with Oceania Cruises. Let's talk about the Caribbean islands we visited, where we got our little taste of paradise. St. Maarten and Saint Lucia. Day four - Philipsburg, St. Maarten Welcome to the turquoise waters of the Caribbean. After two days sailing from Miami, we arrived at our first destination, Philipsburg, and made our way to the Amazon for Christmas and New Year. Seven years ago, we first visited St. Maarten, an island the Netherlands and France share. We spent our time on the French half on our first visit, so we enjoyed the Dutch half this time. After the Spanish abandoned their fort in 1648, a few Dutch and French soldiers hid on the island and decided to share it; soon after, both countries signed a formal agreement to split the island. After a quick water taxi to the centre, we were hunting for decent wifi, so we bar-hopped until we found a great connection. We also had a small shopping list of essentials, so we took this time to prepare ourselves for the next few months at sea. The island vibe was in full swing, swarming with cruise passengers from the four ships docked and the sweltering heat. The beach was filling up fast, and everyone enjoyed the hot weather! We decided we preferred the French side as it offered more quality dining establishments, was further from the port, and was more peaceful. Day five - Castries, St. Lucia This morning, we arrived in the tropical gem Saint Lucia, a small Caribbean island 27 miles long and 24 miles wide, located north of Barbados. We were docked in Castries, where we could wander off the ship to explore the nearby town and enjoy the local vibe. We visited St Lucia in 2015 and fondly recalled finding a local cafe overlooking the square, so we searched to find it. Afterwards, we strolled the streets, saying hello to all the vibrant and friendly locals and discovering St Lucia was home to a few Nobel prize winners. We discovered a familiar balcony cafe, although we soon realised it was different. We were previously docked on another part of the island; we later determined the restaurant we were looking for was another island entirely. We settled in all the same and enjoyed one of the most delicious coffees; we had to stay for two. We loved feeling part of the local life and watching everyone go about their day, the best way to immerse yourself into a new destination. After we were caffeinated, we took to the streets and enjoyed visiting the local market; everyone was super friendly and exuded the island's chilled-out vibe. Once we had reached our limit with the heat, we snuck back to the ship for lunch and then were spoilt with a golden hour sail-away, capturing the tropical gem of an island in the sunset. Thank you, St Lucia, for welcoming us back. Join us for our next chapter, 'Brazil', as we embrace and explore the Amazon over Christmas and New Year with Oceania Cruises on our 110-day voyage around South America.

Miami, you were fun! It was a great idea to spend a few days exploring Miami before we embarked on our Oceania cruise to discover and explore the East Coast of South America. Miami is a simmering pot of sights and smells, seasoned by its diverse population and will show everyone a good time. Plenty to keep you entertained, a hub for shopping, with an abundance of dining options to satisfy every cuisine craving you can think of. When the sun retreats, it leaves you with a tangerine sky, where you can join the city's beautiful crowd as they light up beach parties and rooftop bars around town. We stayed in a beautiful new Airbnb downtown, part of a new hotel; it was always buzzing with a great bar downstairs for our nightcaps and meeting new friends. It was the perfect spot to knuckle down and get through work and all our laundry; it was also very close to Brickell Centre, the hotspot for shopping and home to Saks Fifth Avenue and Victoria's Secret, perfect! We took the opportunity to spend a few days enjoying fabulous and delicious lunches, shopping, shopping and more! Perfect for our upcoming cruise to flip the wardrobe, which we needed to make sure we blended in a little on the Oceania cruise, as there are country club dress codes throughout the ship. The sales were also on, and it was nice to have so many choices! Zuma Miami is a chic Japanese restaurant overlooking the Miami River; we had this first on our list, and as soon as we were shopped out, it was time to indulge, so we hastily made a booking by OpenTable and were there in a heartbeat with all the speedy Ubers to enjoy our lazy lunch. The food at Zuma was mouthwatering, and the wine to match. We were fortunate the lunch special was running, as you can enjoy tasting various incredible dishes; we hope to be back in April to continue. We had been planning for months an evening with our dear friend Redona and her boy Mark, whom we met on our travels two years ago in Albania; we stayed in the hotel she was managing in Durres. They were currently in Fort Lauderdale for a few weeks, so we took the opportunity to all catch up for dinner and drinks; it was a magical, fun evening full of laughter, and nice to have some familiar faces around. Unfortunately, we had so much fun over dinner, followed by cocktails on rooftops we forgot to capture the moments. We couldn't leave Miami this time (we have visited Miami about four times over the past ten years) without a slow lunch at the Versace mansion, which has been converted into a restaurant and boutique hotel. It was a great way to spend the afternoon and to experience the dazzling mansion and original home of Gianni Versace; tragically, it was also where his life was taken. We had a beautiful afternoon and were incredibly impressed by the team's exceptional service and warm welcome, a special thank you to team Gianni Versace Mansion: Villa Casa Casuarina. We followed this with an evening of cocktails at Rosa Sky, a Miami rooftop bar to enjoy the Miami skyline, where we met more lovely locals and continued with a night full of new friends and more laughter. It was the perfect way to end our short stay in this metropolis city. Miami, you are growing on us each time we visit, and we can't wait to be back in April.

Welcome to Bolivia. Travel doesn't always go as planned! How did we end up in Bolivia en route to Miami? We were scheduled to leave Buenos Aires (BA) for Santiago, Chile. We are fully aware Aussies now need a visa to transit, so we applied over one month ago. The authorities confirmed it was received, but that was all we heard! As we were in Chile last month for a few weeks whilst on the cruise, we thought we would try our luck again; we already have the stamps from Chile accepting us and still have plenty of time remaining on our tourist entry of 90 days. Airports have much tighter border control than cruise ships (we have since realised this is not the case upon arriving in Chile on another cruise ship), and we could not check in to our flight! It was 6 am, and after an hour or so of chatting with the accommodating airline staff, who went above and beyond to help us, they confirmed they would be fined. They would have to fly us back to Buenos Aires if Chile didn't accept us for the two nights to transit to Miami; we had no choice but to skip the flight and lose our money. The flights were about AUD1000; fortunately, our accommodation was fully refundable. It was now 7 am, and we were packed and ready to leave Argentina, so we were out with the laptops searching for flights from BA to Miami! Boom, we found one; we would fly to Santa Cruz, Bolivia, for a few nights and then bounce to Miami. Thank you, Chile, you did us a favour! We quickly cancelled the Oneworld flight from Santiago and jumped an Uber to the international airport in BA to wait for the mid-afternoon flight to Bolivia! We both wished we knew Chile would be a pain, and we could have avoided the 4 am wake-up call and hanging out at airports all day! Fortunately, the flight was on time. We had landed row 1 for our 3-hour flight, boarded, and were in the air bound for Bolivia. Never have we seen or heard so many dogs and cats flying (I am sure I even listened to a bird at one stage); other than the additional pet passengers, we had a very comfortable flight and caught up on some sleep! Santa Cruz is one of the fastest-growing cities in the world and has grown from being a small outpost town to having a population of over 2 million, mainly due to the expansion of agriculture (notably soybeans, sugarcane, and rice) and petroleum and natural gas mining in the surrounding valleys. The city produces soybean oil, dairy and meat products, refined sugar, wood, leather, and alcohol. Oil refining is also essential. Unlike La Paz and the other major cities of Bolivia, located high in the Andes, Santa Cruz lies at an altitude of 416 meters, and its climate is distinctly tropical. It is also known for its exciting nightlife and as a base for a wide range of exciting tourist attractions, namely the salt flats. We safely arrived in Santa Cruz, thankful for the cooler weather, about 10 degrees less than BA, which was welcomed. Upon arriving at the airport, we gambled on the local taxi after converting some cash without asking for a price; 20 minutes later and not being ripped off, we were in the hotel enjoying a cocktail on the rooftop, celebrating country number 63! We opted to stay in a five-star hotel unfamiliar with the country, as there was no time to research when you book on the morning you arrive. Marriott Santa Cruz de la Sierra Hotel was located just on the edge of the centre, but it was modern, clean and perfect for a short stay. The team was warm and friendly, and the hotel bounced back from the past few years. On our first night in, we enjoyed a quiet dinner in the hotel's restaurant, and the food was delicious; we were also happy to know we were still in the land of empanadas, as you couldn't get enough of them! With only three nights to enjoy our new country, it was a fly-by visit as we needed to be in Miami to embark on our next cruise, but we managed to catch up on sleep, visit the city centre, and experience the dining scene, which is very impressive, including the local wine; we even squeezed in a morning of hair cuts at Peluquería Marco Tulio and shopping for new outfits! Our first day was spent exploring the centre, just roaming around Plaza 24 de Septiembre, the city's central plaza, where locals and tourists alike gather to hang out and observe each other and experience the local vibe; we feel it is a city of two tales, the old and the new. Parts were relatively poor, and then you would come across a modern and contemporary landscape with many quality restaurants and apartment buildings. We even checked on some pricing of an apartment off the plan, approx USD50k. After getting lost amongst the local life, we googled and Ubered our way to a steak house, BRÍOS Restaurant, that was highly recommended and enjoyed our afternoon with what we do best: wine and dining! The meat was exceptional and nicely complimented with a favourite Malbec from Mendoza. The next day, we ticked off the essentials in the nearby shopping mall called Ventura Mall and followed this with another slow lunch. After reading the reviews on Piegari Restaurant, we had to squeeze it in; we don't like to miss out on dining opportunities. It was nice and quiet, with stylish decor, friendly staff, and outstanding food. We were very grateful we chose Italian for our last meal in Santa Cruz and also sampled a Bolivian red wine, which we were super impressed with. Our stay in Santa Cruz was short and sweet, but our little teaser of Bolivia has won our hearts, and we will find our way back to appreciate you truly! We walked freely; taxis and Ubers were plentiful and cheap, we felt safe, the people were warm and friendly, the food was delicious (and of excellent value), and the little we saw, there was so much more to discover and enjoy! Fun facts and travel tips: Card payments were used in most places; we even found it interesting how the keypads were laid out; the numbers were all jumbled and different on each console Uber was very inexpensive and easy to use to get around Santa Cruz People are super friendly and kind The quality of food and restaurants was impressive Santa Cruz is the unofficial Sloth Capital of the World; these charming and iconic animals can still be seen frequently climbing trees on the city's outskirts today. Bolivia is home to the most incredible salt flats (the largest in the world); we have heard repeatedly from fellow travellers that the Uyuni Salt Flats are one of their favourite places in the world.