Inca History, Colonial Highlights & the Panama Canal - Chile, South America We arrive in Chile in week 11 of our 13-week Pole-to-Pole cruise on the MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions and explore the coast. Day 71 - Arica, Chile Country 60! We are certainly increasing our countries visited! Today, we arrived in Arica, Chile's northernmost city, only 18 km from Peru. A port town with a population of 220k and surrounded by the Atacama Desert (also known for where fast fashion goes to die). Near the centre of Arica, a path climbs up to Morro Arica hill, with sweeping views over the coastline. Upon arriving in Northern Chile, the landscape is a sea of arid scenery, the rich greenery we have left behind. You can feel the dust as you immerse yourself in the city and wonder about Summer; escaping is challenging. We were fortunate to glimpse some of the desert drawings, such as the geoglyphs of the north Chilean desert. We were on an excursion to taste the flavours of Arica; it started with a short drive exiting the city via the coastline and the enormous centrepiece, a large rock, to delve deeper into the desert to visit a local olive and tomato farm. With a quick stroll through the tomato vines, olive trees dating back over 100 years, and a quick sample of homegrown olives, we enjoyed capturing some fun moments and settling into the peaceful oasis set up to soak up the morning sun. Next, we visited the local farmers market; we enjoyed perusing all the fresh produce and purchasing a vibrant bunch of lilies (USD5) to bring some joy to our home, our suite on the ship. A visit to a handicraft village followed the market, a replica of the Altiplanic town of Parinacota, located at 4390m high, and the commune of Putre, 200 km from Arica. We were offered a local Mango sour (incredibly sweet for our palate) and could peruse the craft shops. We strolled quickly due to the desolate atmosphere and rested on the bus. Once all passengers were back on the bus, we were provided with a quick opportunity to explore the centre of Arica, which was filled with walking streets and eateries, along with a lovely church and a historic building that was the original customs house designed by none other than French architect Gustave Eiffel in metal and wood. We spent the afternoon relaxing on the ship, devouring more delights from Fredheim and spoilt by another magical sunset as we continued down the Chilean coastline to our next destination, Iquique. Fun facts: Pachamama is a goddess revered by the indigenous peoples of the Andes. In Inca mythology, she is an "Earth Mother" type goddess and a fertility goddess who presides over planting and harvesting, embodies the mountains, and causes earthquakes. It does not rain in Africa; there is zero rainfall each year. The Chinchorro mummies, the oldest mummies in the world, were recovered from the Atacama Desert near Arica, dating around 7020 BCE. Chile's coastline is 6,435 km (4,000 miles) long. Day 72 - Iquique, Chile It was an early arrival into port, so the ship was as quiet as a mouse, as everyone was out and about on their excursions when we surfaced at about 9 am. Due to only having half a day in port, we opted out of the excursions as we didn't want to miss out on experiencing the life of now in Iquique by attending the historical-themed tour of the ghost town Humberstone, a UNESCO site, an old mining town with an alarming and sordid history, or the city highlights tour with a guide. Iquique is a coastal city in northern Chile, west of the Atacama Desert, home to 200k. A prosperous saltpetre mining town in the 19th century, today it's a popular holiday destination due to the crystal clear Pacific beaches and a Spanish-influenced seafront casino. We did it Wayne and Sal style and made our way to the old city (via a complimentary shuttle bus; being in a working port, it isn't safe to wander into town by foot). We were dropped five minutes from the port in the historic district by the iconic 19th-century clock tower in Arturo Prat Square, the city's central plaza. We gave ourselves a high five as we were exactly where we had planned on foot, a beautiful pedestrian street called Baquedano. A walking street lined with shades of pastel-coloured colonial-era buildings, now all operating as bars, cafes and restaurants. The first cafe we spotted we were in to order our morning coffee to continue our stroll through the beautiful street. The coffee was delicious, too! I think it was 4000 pesos, so USD 2 each. We made sure to withdraw local currency via an ATM in Arica to make life easier, although cards were accepted in most places. We loved our morning walk; the weather was just below 20, so perfect; we enjoyed a sensational coffee and the coastal views as we reached the beaches. Making our way back up Baquedano, we were hoping to visit a local barber; the last tidy-up was in Canada, so he looked a little shabby; he was closed. We had put our sights on a funky bar below the barber earlier, so it was now mojito time instead; I am sure it was noon somewhere! We chatted away with our friendly bartender from Bolivia, listening intently to his inspiring story; his family immigrated to England and of nine children, they provided the youngest three the opportunity to study for ten years; now, he has returned and is in Chile studying Electrical engineering. We loved chatting and picking up the must-visit places when we made our way to Bolivia. We also enjoyed being in the moment and watching the local life. Our onboard time was approaching, so we wandered back through the local markets to be shuttled back to the ship. We arrived in time for a Lindstrom lunch for a scenic sail away as we left Iquique. A special afternoon tea followed lunch with the Pole-to-Pole guests in Lindstrom. We were treated to a delicious array of savoury and sweet snacks, including a Hungarian-style crepe smothered with chocolate; who could say no? After devouring all that delicious food, it was time to rest and enjoy an afternoon nap. Day 73 - At Sea, Chilean Coast Today was a relaxing day at sea, soaking up the last of the sun for a while, enjoying the views, dining, and playing the odd joke on our fellow passengers. We overheard our fellow passenger Iain order sorbet of the day. We took this as the perfect opportunity to play a joke. We quickly got the troops together, the lovely staff and asked them to play along. We decided on Salmon Sorbet, as it was a dish this evening. So they organised a little slice of cooked salmon on top of a scoop and innocently served to Iain with the commentary 'Sorbet of the day is Salmon' and placed the bowl before him. Iain's expression was priceless, followed by a swift turn in our direction, and we were all in fits of laughter. Thanks to the crew for playing along and Iain for being such a good sport; he even devoured the 'Salmon sorbet of the day'. Thank you, Iain. It brightened everyone's day and filled us with laughter, especially with you devouring it; maybe it's your new favourite? Day 74 - Coquimbo & La Serena, Chile Welcome to our third destination in Chile, bordered by the Atacama to the north, Valparaíso to the South, Argentina to the east, and the Pacific Ocean to the west. It is approximately 400 kilometres north of the national capital, Santiago. We opted for the city highlights of Coquimbo and La Serena, a colonial city, so we went off the waiting tour bus to explore the highlights of both. The locals commonly refer to Coquimbo city as a city of calm and tranquil waters—pics through rose-coloured glasses (our bus had a pink tinge to the tinted windows). Our first stop was overlooking the ocean for pictures of the beach, meeting local dogs and the immense wildflowers, and continuing to horseshoe bay and the coastline as we migrated into La Serena. It was an active ocean with waves becoming more prominent as we toured the road, a segment of Route 5, the longest highway of 48000km, taking you from the end of the world in Chile to Alaska. Unfortunately, the university called off visits for tourists last week, so we continued to the city centre, where we were given 20 minutes of free time to peruse the local arts and crafts markets. Wayne and I explored the city centre and the local life. Shortly after, we wandered back to the group; it was a little unsettling with the feeling of being watched walking around on our own. Next was a visit to the Archeological Museum in La Serena, home to the ancient Moai stone from Easter Island. A replica is currently being carved for the city of La Serena; once finished, this replica moai, carved by the best sculptors on the Island, will be given to the town in exchange for the historical moai in the Museum. As recorded in history, at the request of the then-President of Chile, Gabriel Gonzalez-Videla, the ancient moai was sent as a "gift" to La Serena in 1952 in gratitude. We all walked through the city to a park in the market and were then delivered back to the ship. The evening was over a farewell dinner with our lovely new friends (sorry, Gunnar and Marit, we missed you guys in the pic, but we will find our way to Tromsø). We will miss everyone, but new-found friendships have been made for when our paths cross again. Fun facts: One of the strongest earthquakes registered was in La Serena at 9.2 (we later found out there was a stronger one at 9.5 in Puerto Natales) Economic activity in Coquimbo is growing, including mining (copper, gold, silver, coal), fishing, and tourism. La Serena is the second oldest city in Chile. Day 75 - Valparaíso, Chile This morning was disembarkation day for our fellow guests, and we had the morning to explore the city independently. We were first off to make the most of it and jumped on the shuttle bus to be transported to the port terminal and closer to the city. As we were dropped off, we were instructed to pass through a hidden door in the port, all so mysterious, but we popped out into the city and could explore the city on foot; this is a video of re-entering the dock later in the day. Our priority was haircut; our last one was in Canada, so we were excited! We passed a barber as we walked; the young kids had the same priority, so it was bursting with a queue, so we planned to pop back on our return. We just roamed the streets. It was Saturday and market day, so it buzzed with locals and vendors selling everything. We loved wandering around, enjoying a morning coffee and chatting with all the locals; everyone was friendly and loved to stop for a chat and a picture, especially the men at the fish market; we had a hoot. Today was about sampling some local Chilean food. We stumbled upon a food truck corner with a great setup, so we popped in and supported a few, along with our first empanadas; they all loved having some Aussie visitors, so we kept busy capturing the moments. Back to the terminal, making sure to stop in for a tidy up at the barber's; they were fantastic and trimmed our hair with perfection for USD 6; we left them with a little extra as we walked out feeling ten years younger and refreshed. The Pole to Pole guests and transit passengers were all treated to an afternoon winery tour and lunch, so we were excited. We have whisked away with a local guide, and his lovely family, who happened to be Aussies from Chile, and we spent the afternoon catching up and reminiscing on the Aussie way of life; we loved it. The winery we visited was Casas del Bosque, which translates to 'Houses of the Forest' and is Chile's No. 5 wine producer. The wine region is Casablanca, only 30 minutes from Valparaiso and could compete with the best. It was world-class, and the food and wine were exceptional. We finally got to try our first Pisco Sour; next time, we will skip the syrup; we love our drinks dry and sour. We all enjoyed a slow lunch, relishing the afternoon in the fresh country air. We enjoyed escaping into this natural wonder for the afternoon, basking in the sun and learning about Chilean wines, which were very impressive. A special thank you to Daniel from DSH Wines for organising the winery experience and the special treat to take home. Around 7 pm, we were delivered back to the ship to prepare for the new segment; we had about 400 new friends. We are looking forward to the final leg of the 3-month cruise exploring the South of Chile and arriving in Antarctica. Day 76 & 77 - At Sea, Chilean Coast, South Pacific Ocean The last two days of 'Week 11' were spent at sea cruising the Chilean coast and approaching the channels and majestic fjords. A great two days relaxing and enjoying the peaceful sea days. Wayne and I love these in-between days, although they are straightforward to fill with meeting new passengers, catching up with fellow pole polers and enjoying meals. We also love having fresh flowers in our room; they brighten up our days at sea. All passengers are busy preparing for Antarctica, settling in for their new voyage and booking excursions. We hope we are lucky to win the kayaking (approx 20-40 passengers will be selected) and snow walks during our landings. We have many passengers at 400 and only limited spots for these experiences; of course, we hope Mother Nature is also on our side. Fingers crossed. Join us next week for more adventures in Chile as we explore the South.

Inca History, Colonial Highlights & the Panama Canal - Ecuador, South America In week ten of our 13-week bucket list Pole to Pole cruise on the MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions, we embark on the West coast of South America (Note: Peru was cancelled due to COVID restrictions, if the ship had one positive case, she would have been quarantined for two weeks). Day 64 - Manta, Ecuador 'Week ten' kicks off with Country 59. Welcome to Ecuador. On our way this morning, the ship was surrounded by a pod of dolphins, a lovely warm welcome to Ecuador. We arrived early afternoon in Manta, a popular beach destination in Ecuador, home to 200,000 residents and the second largest port city in Ecuador. The beaches were sandy and vast along the coast, the city was clean, and the locals were just as excited as us. With smiles, waves, and hello's at every opportunity, the people of Ecuador warmed our hearts. We felt the natural vibe today, so we opted for the paid excursion to a nearby forest. A small group of us were on the bus, heading 45 minutes out of the city to make our way to the enchanted Pacoche Forest. We passed through rural villages where 'The Montecristi' is generationally sourced, prepared, and handmade. The Montecristi is known to most of us as the 'Panama Hat'. We have learned a significant 'fun fact' this week: the hats are actually from and made in Ecuador, referred to as 'The Montecristi', a small village in Ecuador (near Manta) where they are hand-crafted by artisans. One hat with the finest straw can take up to three months and sell for over $1k. As we passed through the villages, you could feel the locals' warmth and pride in their homes and environment; all were spotless and uncluttered. From Manta to Pacoche, you experience three distinct microclimates: a semi-arid desert with expansive beaches and a transition area of dry forest with vegetation to enter a misty, humid jungle. Pacoche is a National Reserve natural wonder with a unique regional flora and fauna diversity. We are joined by a local, national naturist who guides us through the hidden gems while commenting on all flora and fauna. We enjoyed the calmness of the forest and the fresh, misty air as we completed a 45-minute trek, listening intently for the unique Howler Monkeys, home to about 900 monkeys. We were mesmerised as we heard their roar bellow through the forest. We were lucky to see them feeding in the treetops. The territorial roar of the Howler Monkey is said to be the loudest sound made by any land animal in the world; it was quite an eerie experience. It was a very insightful trek with our guide, Rinaldo; he was born and bred in the region, and his love for the natural wonder shined through. We picked up lots of fun facts about the healing qualities of many plants and the not-so-healing qualities of some that can lead to the bitter end. As dusk and the mist were settling in, we were back on the bus to the ship; we were all delighted with the lunchbox we were gifted with local goodies. They were all delicious, especially the banana crisps, a local Ecuadorian banana, and the chocolate! This evening was a beautiful sail away from our first destination in Ecuador, the city of Manta; it's always lovely sailing away from a sea of city lights. Fun Facts: Ecuador is a major exporter of bananas, coffee and chocolate. The construction of the Panama Canal caused an excellent demand for toquilla straw hats from Ecuador because of their quality of protection from the sun. The hat was internationally known from Panama, and people began to call it 'Panama Hat' even though the place of origin is Ecuador. Ecuador is also home to the smallest hummingbird in the world, 3-5cm in height, called the 'Bee Hummingbird.' The Montencristi hat is known to the world as the Panama hat, but it is the Monticristi in Ecuador. The hat production is commonly generational; one will go to the forest to collect the straw, another will dry the straw, and one will make the hat. The process is all by hand. Ecuador is home to the tagua tree, which produces the corozo nut. It is an ivory nut that, when fresh, you can eat and drink from, like a mini coconut; once dried, it becomes hard and is used to make buttons; they are very durable. It is much more friendly and sustainable than using elephant tusks and plastic. Day 65 - Puerto Bolivar & Machala, Ecuador Ecuador and the beautiful people of this country are winning us over! It was a magical day exploring another beautiful pocket of Ecuador. This morning was about exploring the local cities, starting with the port town of Puerto Bolivar, followed by Machala, home to 250,000. We started with a visit to the local market in Puerto Bolivar, which is full of fresh produce, butchers, and all essentials. A local hotspot for the locals to enjoy coffee and lunch while they grocery shop, the market was filled with locals and the tunes of the local music. We roamed around, meeting all the stallholders. We loved checking out the local foods and meeting the lovely people. This was followed by a short bus trip to Machala, where we were welcomed with a cultural dance show and then could peruse the market of more local goodies; we couldn't pass up the opportunity to purchase the chocolate they are very well known for, being spoilt with samples of the coffee they produce too, we loved supporting them. We returned with a bag of goodies, a beautiful hand-painted hat for both of us, some delicious-smelling soaps, and a few gifts. We loved how each stall had a student describing the goods from an English-speaking school; we loved the energy and helping them converse in our mother language. Wayne didn't pass up the opportunity to dance and joined the crew, who shared their local talents of the Pasillo dance. Next was a visit to the municipal centre, where we were to experience more cultural shows, more Pasillo dancing and the incredible talents of the Ecuadorians. After this, we visited a park surrounded by friendly locals and could enjoy a freshly made cocktail; mojito was our drink of choice, and Wayne and I felt at home; it was even on the house. We were continually impressed with their cleanliness and pride in their city; the streets were impeccable, and you could feel the love for visitors to their wonderful city. Everyone loved to chat and take a picture to capture our visit; it was so heartwarming. It was a morning of positive energy, smiles, and moments with the beautiful souls of Machala, a city we fell in love with. Thank you for having us and welcoming us into your world. We had a guide who shared his love of his home with us, and we left with a bounce in our step and very warm hearts. Fun facts: Puerto Bolivar is one of the world's most prominent shipment points for bananas, most of them destined for Europe; about 80% of Ecuador's banana production is shipped through these port facilities Ecuador'sEcuador's currency is the US dollar. Day 66 - Guayaquil, Ecuador Ecuador's incredibly kind and friendly people have continued to capture our hearts. We are grateful we had the opportunity to visit Guayaquil, our last destination in Ecuador. We are smitten with only three destinations in this magical country, an undiscovered gem in Latin America. Docking in this morning, we were surrounded by the greenest mangroves on the edge of a large city, encapsulating 3.2 million Ecuadorians. It could easily have been the Capital City, which I believe was in the running initially with Quito. We couldn't miss the opportunity of being surrounded by the locals again; the energy they share with the world around them is infectious. So we opted for the 'City highlights' excursion, which was also included, so there was no additional cost. Most of us opted for the same, so we were all packed into the buses for a half-day trip around Guayaquil. First was the Notre Dame-style cathedral in the city's heart and the park, which you could nearly mistake for a zoo. It was full of Iguanas roaming around, turtles and fish populating the pond. It was wonderful. Following this, we had a short walk to another square, where we were in awe of the gracious architecture; the buildings were stunning. As we walked, we were accompanied by the local police on bikes, not due to safety concerns, but more of a hospitable approach welcoming us to their city. The rest of the passengers visited a museum, so this was our perfect opportunity to sneak away and experience life in Ecuador. We found a nearby coffee shop and quickly ordered a local coffee, which was delicious, another of their primary exports. Our lovely friend Alex, a local policeman accompanying the tour, also joined us for a coffee, and the lovely cafe owner gifted us her homemade cake, which we all relished; it was divine! After our 15 minutes of freedom, we raced back to blend in with the tour and continued learning about Guayaquil's history. Our guide, Allan, then led us to a beautiful beachside esplanade, another museum, where we spent the time chatting with the locals and capturing moments. We then wandered into the old Spanish town. You instantly felt like you were back in Europe; the vibe was inspiring with the bright, colourful buildings, art galleries and boutique hotels. After spending the morning in Guayaquil, we were ready to add this to our list. We would love to come back and explore more and support all the local restaurants, cafes and bars. Ecuador is a hidden gem; you are guaranteed to leave a piece of yourself in this beautiful, warm and gentle part of the world. Fun facts: Ecuador has a population of 18 million; both Quito and Guayaquil have approx 3m Ecuador is the first country to give rights to nature - you can go to prison for harming or capturing a protected species. Guayaquil's main exports are Cacao beans, seaport services, bananas, and oil. Ecuador cacao beans were Queen Elizabeth II's first choice for making chocolate for the royal family. Recently, Ecuador has started producing high-quality chocolate sold at a premium. Guayaquil is the gateway to the Galapagos Islands. Colombia and Ecuador have the world's highest number of bird species. As we sailed away this evening, a beautiful sky joined us, with the local fisherman feeding the birds to bid us farewell. Day 67, 68, 69 & 70 - At Sea, South Pacific Ocean After a magical start to the week exploring Ecuador, we set sail for four days to make our way to Chile, bypassing Peru after some stringent COVID restrictions on cruise ships. We used this time to share the love of Ecuador on social media to help the local businesses and thank them for their warm hospitality and beautiful products. Sea days are always full of dining; here is a selection of the meals we enjoyed over the four days at sea in Lindstrom. We were treated to champagne and pizza one evening for the Pole to Polers, which, of course, is always a welcome addition, and it is nice to enjoy some new cuisines. Afternoons were filled with the beautiful voice and music of the pianist, the lovely Julio from Brazil. We celebrated special anniversaries, birthdays, and dinners with our wonderful fellow passengers in the lovely Lindstrom, sharing travel, life stories, laughter and creating friendships; it was always inspiring. During one of the days, the ship came across a whale carcass; they slowed down and inched closer for us all to observe the bird life; it was pretty eerie and brutal to forget the stench. It is always sad when we come across them, but the circle of life continues. We were also treated to a pre-dinner show one evening with the dolphins dancing around the ship; they were everywhere, and it was gorgeous! We were followed down the Peruvian coast by extraordinary sunsets that filled the sky with magnificent pastels during our sea days. Fun fact: Cheers in Norway, 'Skål' has a fascinating back story. It derives from thousands of years before the Vikings and refers to actual skulls with the top cut-off used as a drinking vessel to drink from. Thanks to our fellow Norwegian friends for the fun fact.

Tropical Waters and Remote Island Communities in the Caribbean - Colombia & Panama. In week nine of our 13-week bucket list Pole to Pole cruise on the MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions, we explored Central America. We fulfilled a bucket list item: the Panama Canal. Day 57 - At Sea, Caribbean Sea Today's most eventful item was the incredible display of birds over lunch; we were mesmerised by the flying creatures following the ship, hunting fish, and even tackling each other for food. The Brown Boobies catch the fish, and the Frigatebirds attempt to steal the Boobie's meal. We had a fantastic view from our window table in Fredheim. Lunch was also impressive, and we tried the soft steam buns filled with delicious chicken and peppers; they were so good we had to order seconds. As we chose to visit our Erik and King Richard in Fredheim today, we couldn't pass up the opportunity to order a crepe; we were delighted when the chef made a little taste of home for us, just what we needed. Simply lemon and sugar crepe! Thank you, team Fredheim. Day 58 - Providencia, Colombia Welcome to Country 57; moving our country tally up has been a great week, with another one later this week. We are edging closer to 60! Coffee first, as always, over a chat with the lovely Seth, who happens to be working at Hurtigruten in the Customer Care team. He was a ball of energy, and we loved sharing our travel stories. Thank you, Seth, for popping over to say hello. We were called to board our tender, and unfortunately, it was complete. Hence, a handful of us passengers had to wait for the crew tender, which, in hindsight, was in our favour due to the tropical rain arriving for a moment, so we missed the downpour and only had to receive a light shower. Sparkling clear turquoise waters surround us, filling you with wonder and delight. Providencia is a small tropical Caribbean island part of Colombia; unfortunately, they were still in repair after a significant hurricane two years ago. They are all busy rebuilding and cleaning up, and the small village community didn't let this get them down. They were all full of kindness and warmly welcomed us. We couldn't wait to support them and give them a little financial boost to help them rebuild faster. We welcomed the half-hour walk to town with only a light shower, and it was a blessing to keep us more relaxed from the scorching sun and humidity. As soon as the rain stopped, you could feel it coming back; the locals welcomed us with a big wave and hello and took cover under their porch as we walked by. The island is bursting with bright colours, slowly starting to resurface from the remnants of the hurricane damage. The locals are resilient, and I know it will return to its full glory soon. We sought a local establishment to support lunch and a cold drink. We finally arrived at one and raced in to spend the afternoon treating ourselves to sample the local Colombian cuisine and mojitos (in a can, but delicious). We chatted with our fellow passengers who had found the same venue and our lovely new friend Seth joined us; we had a perfect afternoon full of laughter and mojitos! Based on Seth's recommendation, we popped into a cafe nearby and sampled the Colombian coffee; we were a little sceptical not being black coffee drinkers, but Seth was spot on, and it was incredible! Thank you, Seth! We started our return to the tender and, fortunately, found a shuttle going by. We jumped in and enjoyed a singalong in Spanish with our driver and the latest state-of-the-art air conditioning; leave the doors open. We had a blast. Stopping every so often to pick up fellow passengers and give them solace from the heat, I think we managed to squeeze over ten of us in, and our driver wanted to pick up more! We were back on the ship for a much-needed cold shower to enjoy the evening on the ship; unfortunately, we were trying to get back for the local cultural performance but arrived too late once we were showered due to the delay with the tender, and everyone was trying to do the same. The evening was spent enjoying cocktails, meeting fellow passengers, and sharing their day stories. Day 59 - San Andres, Colombia Today, we arrived around 9 am in San Andrés, a Colombian island in the Caribbean Sea, off the coast of Nicaragua. It's known for its coral reefs and reggae music, popular with tourists. All excursions were delayed due to a slow clearance from authorities. Once we were cleared, the passengers were on the tenders to embark on their tours. There is usually an inclusive tour and a couple of paid options to visit villages, sample local cuisines, beach days and snorkelling adventures. We commonly opt for the independent as we love to get lost in a new place and explore at our own pace. We enjoyed a coffee from our lovely Arnel in the Explorer's Lounge (he truly makes the best coffee) and used the time to research the best places for lunch and cocktails. Around lunch, we were on the island, a very short tender, although very hot, so we tried to nab a seat in the open air. Once on the island, a free shuttle took you 30 minutes into town. Watch these guys as they still want you to pay on arrival, even though Hurtigruten has provided them for passengers. A quick stroll to our restaurant on the boulevard, with views of the crystal waters and air-conditioned indoors! We thoroughly enjoyed the new cuisines, we had a day of Asian, it was most welcomed, and the cocktails were a nice warm-up to the day! After being in Canada and the US for a few months, it was also a pleasant surprise to receive a lazy lunch bill of AUD100, after the average being AUD350, and we quickly had six cocktails and a few courses. After lunch, we took on the sweltering heat to stroll the beach, were quickly defeated and waited for our taxi; he messaged to say he would be half an hour late, which meant we would have missed the last tender, so we hailed a cab for USD20 and were back in time. We spent our first night in the room; after a hot and humid day, it was nice to hide away; we were incredibly spoilt by our beautiful team in Lindstrom, who was only happy to deliver our meals. Thank you, Raymond and Helen 🙏 This evening, we received a letter to advise another country has been removed from our Pole to Pole due to COVID restrictions on cruise ships. To avoid the risk of the vessel being quarantined, Peru has now been cancelled, and we now have an additional port in Ecuador and four seas instead. Hopefully, we will be surprised with a new destination from Ecuador to Chile🤞 Nicaragua was also cancelled for the same reason this week. Fun fact: Always walk the beach before you decide to frolic in the water, and do a quick check on the health of the water. , Day 60 - Bocas del Toro, Panama It is a busy week of counting new countries for these two slow travellers. Last year we visited six countries and are already three this week! Bocas, as the locals refer to it, is the archipelago of Panama. It stole our hearts from the island vibe and the beautiful people, and with stunning views, it is fast becoming a gastronomic destination right up our alley! In a new country, the ship and passengers needed to be cleared; after a few hours, we explored Isla Colon, one of the three islands in Bocas, which is attached to mainland Panama. The zodiacs were out to whisk us to shore, the sun was taking a break, and the rain was to keep us company; we didn't let this get us down. We just ducked out of the walking excursion and escaped to Meren Pool Club, a new beach club, to stay dry and quenched for the afternoon. The food and cocktails were excellent, and the Panamanians' beautiful nature and the beach club's decor and design were very chic. All places have incredibly high-speed wifi and English menus, making it a perfect destination for digital nomads. We bar-hopped back to the ship and loved meeting the locals for a chat; even as we walked along, we were enthralled in conversation with locals. After chats with the locals and feeling at home with the island vibe, think of Koh Samui in Thailand. We are already planning an extended stay in Isla Colon, Panama. We enjoyed a drink with the lovely Emilie from Hurtigruten, with her boundless positive energy and fellow passengers and headed back to the ship to make our way to Colon. Day 61 - Colon, Panama This morning was disembarkation day; we woke to a very peaceful ship as all guests had checked out to explore Panama City and to travel home. The Pole to Pole guests were fortunate to be on an organised excursion of Colon, which we were grateful for, as after researching online, it isn't recommended to do it independently. Below is the local prison, which was in dire conditions but reflects reality today in Colon, for a city home to the Panama Canal with a revenue of approximately 15 million per day. Colón is a city and seaport in Panama, on the Caribbean Sea, near the Atlantic entrance to the Panama Canal; it has traditionally been known as Panama's second city. The vast Colón Free Trade Zone offers tax-free shopping, and there are over 3000 stores in a nearby pocket of the city. It is the distribution centre of all goods for South America. A bus awaited us on an excursion to popular sites near Colon. With Carlos, our guide and Jorge keeping us safe on the road, we drove through the streets of the outskirts of Colon. Seeing the reality of the living conditions for the people and the city was quite disheartening. Carlos was describing to us only yesterday the areas we were going through were one metre underwater, so they were dealing with the remnants of the flooding. First up was a surprise visit to the Northern entrance of the Panama Canal, Gatun Lock, where they have a visitor centre and viewing platform to watch the ships in transit. We were excited to hear one was leaving the last chamber and another entering the first. We got the whole experience from the viewing platform, the chamber gates opening and closing, and seeing the power of gravity as the water rises and releases in the lock chambers. It was genuinely fascinating, especially as we would all experience the transit on our ship the following day. Information overload as we learned all about the Panama Canal and the country of Panama, here are some fun facts below. As we were heading back to the bus, we were surprised to see a visitor out front, a Coatis, part of the racoon family. He was familiar with having humans in his presence, so we all took the opportunity to snap some pics of our first Coatis sightings. Next, we visited Fort San Lorenzo. To access the fort, you drive through an abandoned US Army training base during the Vietnam War, a dense jungle rainforest and mangroves, hearing stories about the crocodiles who cross the roads at night to hunt; therefore, no night walking is recommended unless you are keen on being their appetiser, to also the road we travelled on being nicknamed 'crunch road' when the crabs are migrating, as millions come to the area to do so. It becomes impossible to avoid them as you drive through. We arrived at an 18th-century, well-preserved colonial military structure within half an hour. UNESCO seaside ruins with sweeping views of the mouth of the Chagres River. We strolled through the historic site and admired the panoramic views. We even encountered an army of disciplined little ants delivering food and shelter to their home. The little things, we were all enthralled by the ant's trail. Upon leaving, we were also treated to another Coatis visitor as we departed. Carlos was an excellent guide; his insights were just the right amount, and we picked up many fun facts. We were whisked back to the ship whilst getting a drive-by tour of Colon and the sites; we were also advised to steer clear and stay in our bubble of safety on the ship. It was a fantastic morning; a bucket list item was checked off, and after a quick duty-free shop, we were back in the safety of our floating home for a delicious lunch at Fredheim. Our new fellow passengers were embarking, and everyone was excited to kick off their vacation. They have all been an absolute delight onboard, sharing travel stories and the new segment as we explore the West Coast of South America. Fun facts: Panama hats are made in Ecuador; more on this next week Until 1979, Colon was part of America. US citizens can retire back in Colon and receive 20 years tax-free. 80% of Panama City is Chinese due to the railway building, and 80% of Colon is from Barbados and Jamaica due to the canal. Every little town has a different influence. Ships transiting through the canals pay for all containers/cabins, whether occupied or empty. On average, it is 350k per ship to cross the channel. The canals make an average of 12-15 million daily in revenue, and the minimum wage is $600 monthly. A dry canal refers to offloading containers in port and then using rail to transit the cargo, and another ship waits to collect on the other side to continue the move. Some companies want to save dollars and opt for a dry canal. Panama Canal was inaugurated in 1914; for 85 years, the US operated and had government control. In 1999, the canal was transferred to Panama; they now operate and manage the route; a new lock was built to transport more cargo and more than 40,000 workers, and the larger canal was inaugurated in 2016. The old canal does not recycle water; the new one uses the same water thrice, refreshed to avoid pollution, and only recycles in the dry season. Fifty-two million gallons of water are released from the lake each transit in the old canal. Up to 10,000 people work in the canal today; the best salaries in Panama are from the channel; the top level is 500k a year for pilots. The locals of Colon are now making their home kitchen a restaurant, cooking up home feasts for people to enjoy for a small cost, eating healthily, and supporting local businesses since COVID. Day 62 - Panama Canal Transit Today was the transit through the Panama Canal, an experience both Wayne and I have had on our bucket list for over 15 years. We booked a cruise in 2009 but decided to change our plans and postpone the cruise (which never eventuated). We were advised to enter the first Gatun Lock (the Atlantic exit) at 8.45 am, so we set the alarm and were up and ready. The ship was on schedule, and we commenced our entry into the first chamber (as we are a smaller ship, the old canal chambers were for us); there were three in total, and we were supported by a tug boat at the front and rear, along with the mules (locomotive trains). It takes about one hour to go through the three chambers as you experience the waters in the chambers using the force of gravity to raise you and bring you to the same level so we can continue our transit to the South Pacific. The day was spent cruising through the Panama Canal, luscious green jungle scenery for the next five hours. We enjoyed this from Lindstrom, followed by our balcony; it was warm and humid but a once-in-a-lifetime experience; we captured many videos and pictures! We arrived at Miraflores Lock (the Pacific entrance) around 5 pm, and the same process to enter, lower and exit the chambers; this was perfect timing to call my Mum and Dad in Australia, who also wanted to share this moment with us, they were also able to enjoy it over the wifi. Some video images were blurry but didn't ruin the moment. Once through the last of chambers, we had completed the entry into the Pacific Ocean; it was a beautiful evening, blessed with a vivid and colourful sunset, over a backdrop of ships all waiting their turn to cross into the Atlantic Ocean. After experiencing the Panama Canal locks from both outside and inside the ship, we felt the visit to watch the ships transit the waves was much more enjoyable; once on the ship, it is difficult to understand the full power of the process due to visibility, but all the same, we loved having the opportunity to experience both sides. Our lovely team spoiled us again this evening, and we enjoyed our dinner in the suite—a special thank you to our dear Aries and the team in Lindstrom. Day 63 - At Sea, Crossing the Equator, Ecuador Week nine finished with the crossing of the Equator from the North to the South Pacific Ocean. The sun shone, and we were all treated to the Equator crossing ritual during the afternoon. The ceremony is a long-standing tradition of initiation that commemorates a sailor's first time crossing the Equator. King Neptune, the Captain in this case and the team all came out in preparation for the baptism. King Neptune is said to be the ruler of the seas, and this entire shindig is orchestrated to appease the King by showing him respect, keeping a sailor away from the perils of the sea and bringing good luck. We all queued up for the tradition, and Wayne, of course, was first; we were baptised with a splash of ice, bright red liquid (just food dye), and a refreshing spray from the fire hose as we crossed the Equator by the Captain and crew. It was much easier than the Arctic Circle crossing, where the ice-cold water and ice ceremoniously drizzled down our backs in a few degrees! Everyone was energised and enjoyed the moment, with lots of laughter. The ship has renewed energy for the new leg as we embark on our Ecuador and Chile segments. Unfortunately, Peru has been skipped due to local restrictions for COVID-19, which is outside of Hurtigruten's control, but it will always be there for another time. The poor expedition team were the ones who copped the worst of it, being their first time to experience the crossing. We followed this with the Captain's welcome in the lounge and a meet and greet with the new members of the crew who have joined us for the next South American segment. Dinner was next, and we celebrated the lovely Barbara's 69th birthday; she joined us with her hubby for the new leg with the team. Smiles all around. We all retired early and prepared for our new destination, Manta, Ecuador, and our 59th country. We can't wait to share 'week ten' as we explore the undiscovered gem of Ecuador.

It was fascinating, especially as we experienced the visitor centre of the Gatun Locks chambers of the Panama Canal from the shore the day prior in Colon. Fun facts: Until 1979, Colon was part of America. US citizens can retire back in Colon and receive 20 years tax-free. 80% of Panama City is Chinese due to the railway building, and 80% of Colon is from Barbados and Jamaica due to the canal. Every little town has a different influence. Ships transiting through the canals pay for all containers/cabins, whether occupied or empty. On average, it is 350k per ship to transit the canal. The canals make an average of 12-15 million daily in revenue, and the minimum wage is $600 monthly. A dry canal refers to offloading containers in port and then using rail to transit the cargo, and another ship waits to collect on the other side to continue the move. Some companies want to save dollars and opt for a dry canal. Panama Canal was inaugurated in 1914; for 85 years, the US operated and had government control. In 1999 the canal was transferred to Panama; they now operate and manage the route; a new lock was built to transport more cargo and more than 40,000 workers to make, and the larger canal was inaugurated in 2016. The old canal does not recycle water; the new one uses the same water three times, then refreshed to avoid pollution and only recycles in the dry season. Fifty-two million gallons of water are released from the lake each transit in the old canal. Up to 10,000 people work in the canal today; the best salaries in Panama are from the canal; the top level is 500k a year for pilots. Panama Canal Transit Today was the transit through the Panama Canal, an experience both Wayne and I have had on our bucket list for over 15 years. We booked a cruise in 2009 but decided to change our plans and postponed the cruise (which never eventuated). We were advised we would be entering Gatun Lock (the Atlantic exit) at 8.45 am, so we set the alarm and were up and ready. The ship was on schedule, and we commenced our entry into the first chamber (as we are a smaller ship, the old canal chambers were for us); there were three in total, and we were supported by a tug boat at the front and rear, along with the mules (locomotive trains). It takes about one hour to go through the three chambers as you experience the waters in the chambers using the force of gravity to raise you and bring you to the same level so we can continue our transit to the South Pacific. The day was spent cruising through the Panama Canal, luscious green jungle scenery for the next five hours. We enjoyed this from Lindstrom Restaurant on the ship, followed by our balcony; it was warm and humid but a once-in-a-lifetime experience; we captured many videos and pictures! We arrived at Miraflores Lock (the Pacific entrance) around 5 pm, and the same process to enter, lower and exit the chambers; this was perfect timing to call my Mum and Dad in Australia, who also wanted to share this moment with us, they were also able to enjoy it over the wifi. However, some video images were blurry but didn't ruin the moment. Once through the last of chambers, we had completed the entry into the Pacific Ocean; it was a beautiful evening, blessed with a vivid and colourful sunset, over a backdrop of ships all waiting their turn to cross into the Atlantic Ocean. After experiencing the Panama Canal locks from both outside and inside the ship, we felt the visit to watch the ships transit the locks was much more enjoyable; once on the ship, it is difficult to understand the full power of the process due to visibility, but all the same, we loved having the chance to experience both sides.

As Pole to Pole guests on Hurtigruten Expeditions, we were fortunate to be on an organised excursion of Colon before the Panama Canal transit, which we were grateful for, as after researching online, it isn't recommended to do it independently. Below is the local prison, which was in dire conditions but reflects today's reality in Colon, for a city home to the Panama Canal with a revenue of approximately 15 million per day. Colón is a city and seaport in Panama, on the Caribbean Sea, near the Atlantic entrance to the Panama Canal; it has traditionally been known as Panama's second city. The vast Colón Free Trade Zone offers tax-free shopping, and there are over 3000 stores in a nearby pocket of the city. It is the distribution centre of all goods in South America. A bus awaited us on an excursion to popular sites near Colon. With Carlos, our guide and Jorge keeping us safe on the road, we drove through the streets of the outskirts of Colon. Seeing the reality of the living conditions for the people and the city was quite disheartening. Carlos was describing to us only yesterday the areas we were going through were one metre underwater, so they were dealing with the remnants of the flooding. First up was a surprise visit to the Northern entrance of the Panama Canal, Gatun Lock, where they have a visitor centre and viewing platform to watch the ships in transit. We were excited to hear one was leaving the last chamber and another entering the first. We got the whole experience from the viewing platform, the chamber gates opening and closing, and seeing the power of gravity as the water rises and releases in the lock chambers. It was genuinely fascinating, especially as we would all experience the transit on our ship the following day. Information overload As we learned all about the Panama Canal and the country of Panama, here are some fun facts below. As we were heading back to the bus, we were surprised to see a visitor out front, a Coatis, part of the racoon family. He was familiar with having humans in his presence, so we all took the opportunity to snap some pics of our first Coatis sightings. Next, we visited Fort San Lorenzo. To access the fort, you drive through an abandoned US Army training base during the Vietnam War, a dense jungle rainforest and mangroves, hearing stories about the crocodiles who cross the roads at night to hunt; therefore, no night walking is recommended unless you are keen on being their appetiser, to also the road we travelled on being nicknamed 'crunch road' when the crabs are migrating, as millions come to the area to do so. It becomes impossible to avoid them as you drive through. We arrived at an 18th-century, well-preserved colonial military structure within half an hour. UNESCO seaside ruins with sweeping views of the mouth of the Chagres River. We strolled through the historic site and admired the panoramic views. We even encountered an army of disciplined little ants delivering food and shelter to their home. The little things, we were all enthralled by the ant's trail. Upon leaving, we were also treated to another Coatis visitor as we departed. Carlos was an excellent guide; his insights were just the right amount, and we picked up many fun facts. We were whisked back to the ship whilst getting a drive-by tour of Colon and the sites; also advised to steer clear and stay in our bubble of safety on the ship. A fantastic morning, a bucket list item was checked off, and after a quick duty-free shop, we were back in the safety of our floating home for a delicious lunch at Fredheim. Our new fellow passengers were embarking, and everyone was excited to kick off their vacation. They have all been an absolute delight onboard, sharing travel stories and the new segment as we explore the West Coast of South America.

Tropical Waters and Remote Island Communities in the Caribbean - United States, Belize Week eight on our 13-week bucket list Pole to Pole cruise on the MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions, we embark on a new segment exploring Central America and inch closer to the Panama Canal. Day 50 - At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean, US A very relaxing day at sea, we were all treated to a poolside BBQ with the crew and an opportunity to catch up with our fellow Pole-to-Polers over lunch (Thank you, Jackie, for capturing the moment below). It seems the weather has been switched on, and we are now enjoying 28 degrees, such a dramatic change from last week with the summer wardrobe. Fortunately, we travel with our entire wardrobe, so it is easy to dress for the ever-changing weather. The bridge is open for us to visit each afternoon to pop up and check what Mother Nature has in store for us. We travelled through a few rainstorms today, but the sun shone again within minutes. This evening, the Captain and officers joined us for dinner in the lovely Lindstrom; many guests also enjoyed dining with some new dinner companions. Caption TJ updated us on our progress and confirmed it is going well; we have good seas but expect this to change. We are on schedule to dock in Miami on Thursday morning as planned. Our Captain is incredible and has the passenger's comfort as his top priority. Considering the obstacles we have faced with Hurricane Fiona & Ian, we have been blessed. As we crossed from Canada to the US this morning and were greeted with some tumultuous waters, the weather gods are on strike, a dramatic change from the day before. Day 51 - At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean, US A peaceful night's sleep and another relaxing sea day. We jumped online again and were busy catching up. Fortunately, lunch was back in Lindstrom à la carte (not a fan of buffets, one of the primary reasons we opted for a suite), so we enjoyed a nice bottle of Riesling and caught up with our lovely crew, more leaving in Miami, I know they are looking forward to going home after six months. Still, we will miss seeing their friendly faces each day. Thank you, Rosalie and Cesar, for the laughter and incredible service over the past month. This evening was pizza night, our first pizza in 50 days, so we were excited! They were fresh and crispy thin pastries, delicious! We are just waiting for Hurricane Ian near the Bahamas. Hopefully, it continues, and we can dock tomorrow in Miami. We go to sleep hoping to wake up to the good news and praying for everyone's safety during this terrifying event of Mother Nature storming its way through Florida. Day 52 - Miami, Florida, US We made it to Miami 🇺🇸. Thank you to our fabulous Captain TJ for safely arriving through the hurricanes; you are the best. 👏 After a very comfortable evening sailing into Miami, we were up early to check our windy.com app (utterly addicted to watching the weather patterns worldwide). We were delighted to see we had a clear path to dock in Miami. We arrived at the port about 10 am, only two hours from the schedule, and all enjoyed the Miami city skyline from Deck 11; it was a little grey, very humid and windy, but surrounded by calmness; we were all excited to have the day to explore after five days at sea. The 20 of us were eagerly waiting by the gangway from 11 am to get out and explore the vibrant city of Miami. After two hours of waiting for US customs to give us clearance, we finally raced off to make the most of our five hours on shore. We jumped in a taxi and then were given a price of $45 to go the short drive of 10 minutes from the pier to Miami's design district; we were keen to shop! Our taxi driver wouldn't start the meter, and we knew it was $20, so we quickly exited the cab and booked an Uber, which was super efficient, beautiful, clean, and friendly. Lesson learned: always use Uber! We arrived at the rodeo drive of Miami, think five-story designer stores and enjoyed some quality shopping and a few treats; it is our wedding anniversary in a few days, so a great excuse! After strolling through the streets in 30 degrees and high humidity, Wayne and Sal were done shopping, and it was cocktail time. We jumped into an Uber with the most friendly driver from Venezuela, who was also celebrating an anniversary on 1st October; he had been in Miami for four years. He recommended South Beach, Lincoln Road, to relax for the afternoon. We strolled the same streets back in 2014, this time avoiding the vodka shots while shopping. We came across a Ritz Carlton with an excellent restaurant by the pool to while away the last few hours of our time in Miami, and they had delicious cocktails and snacks. Our lovely waiter, David, ensured we were cared for and shared some stories about this vibrant city. Unfortunately, we still had to be back on the ship at 6 pm due to the gangway being closed, even though we had to overnight in the port. One bite-size nugget he shared was that 3 miles out of Miami are international waters, so casinos can open on cruises shortly after departing. However, our ship is casino-free (not bad), and we stayed in port for the evening for provisions following delays due to Hurricane Ian. We were cautious of the time, so back in an Uber for the ship, the Ubers in Miami are super-sized! But all our drivers were super friendly and had lovely, clean, modern cars. We made it just in time and entered a ship full of new passengers, which was a little strange after having the boat to ourselves for five days, but it was full of an energetic vibe and a younger demographic; the next ten days would be fun. This is the beginning of a new segment, Central America, and the infamous Panama Canal is next on everyone's bucket list. Upon arriving at Lindstrom for dinner this evening, the restaurant was buzzing; it was nice to see the vibrant energy. An announcement and notice were provided this evening of a slight change to the new segment, and Lighthouse Reef (Half Moon Caye) in Belize would no longer be possible; due to time constraints, we need to stay on schedule and meet our other destinations; we were happy to hear Belize city was still on the list so no dramas, the life of an expedition cruise, you roll with it, and we are very excited about the journey ahead. Being in port for the evening, not only were we guaranteed a very peaceful and uninterrupted sleep to prepare for the adventures ahead as we sailed to Belize, but we were blessed to have a fantastic view of Miami from our balcony with a calming sunset over the cityscape. Day 53 - At Sea, Gulf of Mexico This morning, we were welcomed by the Miami city skyline and enjoyed the morning in the sunshine and the last of the Miami views. Let's take a little tour around our suite: an Expedition Suite, ME category. This afternoon, we had all our provisions loaded to make our way to South America and Antarctica. Sail away was during the afternoon; we all bid farewell to the States and embarked on a fresh new journey to Central America. Belize is up next. As we sailed away, we were grateful for being on Hurtigruten Expeditions and a hybrid ship, protecting our environment after seeing the neighbouring vessels and their emissions into the city sky). It was interesting to arrive in new waters and see the dramatic change in Miami to an enchanting turquoise and sea of blues as we sailed away. We were excited about the new destinations and the magnificent waters we would experience. As usual on all new segments, we had a welcome with the Captain and crew; this time, we were treated to Bollinger champagne 🍾 (must be the arrival of the travel writers and social media influencers for this leg), so of course, Wayne and I snuck in a couple of extra pre-dinner drinks to celebrate the arrival of our new Captain, it's nice to see his friendly face back again on the ship. This was followed by some sightings of bottlenose dolphins who sailed with us briefly at the ship's bow, and we were lucky enough to capture a few short videos. Relaxing dinner in Lindstrom followed by a peaceful evening enjoying the calm blue waters by a crescent moonlight. Day 54 - At Sea, Gulf of Mexico Happy Anniversary to us! Sixteen years of magical moments and travels around the world. We are blessed to have found each other and to be on this epic journey of unwrapping the layers of the world together. I had fun collecting all these beautiful moments to surprise hubby this morning. Straight to lunch today as we sailed towards Belize to enjoy a romantic lunch and were truly spoilt by our beautiful team in Lindstrom. Upon arriving back at our suite, we were overwhelmed; we had a fabulous colourful display to celebrate our special day. Thank you, Francis! We were also very grateful for the lovely surprise from our fellow Aussie passengers, Mary and Steve, who were so thoughtful in gifting us with a bunch of gorgeous fresh white roses and reminded us of the time we left Wayne's sunglasses ashore back in Alaska (fortunately we found them again, and now we have the glass chains to keep them secure around this neck)—a pleased anniversary to Mary & Steve's daughter, celebrating 1st October. Thank you to Judit, Francis and our beautiful housekeeping team for the colourful display of love hearts scattered around our room; even Sami, the Seal, was spoilt, and thank you for a bottle of our favourite champagne, Bollinger; it was also our fave on our wedding day. It has been a day filled with love, champagne and surprises. The excellent Hurtigruten crew went above and beyond to make us feel extra spoilt and loved. Upon arriving for dinner, our table was full of love. Thank you, Raymond and our gorgeous Lindstrom crew; we even had our serenade from our lovely waiter, Armani (Arman); it was an evening of magic. Thank you, Judit, Zoltan and the entire crew, for sharing our special day and the delicious cake. Day 55 - At Sea, Caribbean Sea We love sea days! The perfect excuse to wake up naturally, open the curtains and enjoy the morning sky, which has all been a beautiful shade of blue lately! We had noticed the ship had slowed this morning and was nearly stopped. We were curious as to why we were arrested in the deepness of the Caribbean Sea. During our morning coffee, an announcement was made to satisfy our curiosity. It is a ritual for the expedition team to reposition into the warm waters from the icy cold waters to dip in the deep blue waters from the expedition deck, and the passengers were invited to join. The ship came to a complete standstill, locked in her position via the DP, and everyone raced to their cabins to quickly change. As we arrived on Deck 3, it seemed no one would miss the opportunity to have a deep sea swim off a cruise ship in the middle of the Caribbean Sea. The team had the Zodiacs out to provide a platform for the passengers to jump, dive or slide into the deep sea currents with a cosy, warm temperature of 30 degrees. Wayne was excited to try out the warm waters, especially after his arctic swim of 2 degrees, which dramatically changed in only a few weeks! The afternoon was spent meeting some of the Hurtigruten team who have joined us for this leg and followed by another dolphin sighting; thank you, Anders, for the heads up and the bonus of a Brown Booby bird landing. The evening was low-key, and we enjoyed chatting with our new fellow passengers in Lindstrom, who all joined the ship in Miami. We all retired into our suites, ensuring our cabin lights were all dimmed and we didn't disorient any birds migrating overnight. It was an early night as we were excited about our anchor side tomorrow in Belize, a new destination! Day 56 - Belize City, Belize 'Week eight' closes with a new milestone achieved. On 'day 56', we visited our '56th country', Belize, in Central America. Belize City is the largest city, was once the capital of former British Honduras (as Belize was then named), and is part of the Commonwealth. Belize City is home to about 60,000 and hosts the second-largest barrier reef in the world. The Great Barrier Reef in Australia is the first. The city was almost destroyed in October 1961 when Hurricane Hattie swept ashore. It was the capital of British Honduras until the government was moved to the new capital of Belmopan in 1970. Whisked away in the first tender, which the local citizens operate to Belize city to travel in the luxury of an air-conditioned bus for our excursion to Altun Ha, an ancient Mayan city, an archaeological site and ruins located in the Belize District about 50 kilometres north of Belize City. Believed to be from BC900 and was discovered in the early 1960s, now a popular tourist destination, and one of the temples has also become the logo of Belize's leading brand of beer, "Belikin". Our warm and friendly host, Anni, kept us entertained and educated on the country of Belize; she filled us all in on the nuggets we needed to know as we drove the hour to the site. I have shared some fun Belize facts below. Upon arriving at Altun Ha, we were offered to join a group with a tour guide, or we could roam independently and meet back at the bus; we opted for the independent. I love to take the opportunity to capture some fun photos and enjoy the site's peaceful nature; it is also perfect for grabbing those uninterrupted pics. Thank you to our Expedition team host, who was very kind in offering to capture some couple moments for us; the pics are fantastic. After an hour, we were ready to escape the scorching heat and were back in the AC on the bus. Shortly after we were all transported back to the port, we were keen on exploring more of the city. Still, unfortunately, all the shops and dining establishments were closed in the harbour. There were no recommendations to visit the city on your own; they have suffered greatly from the cruise industry going on hold for a few years and restarting slowly, so we put safety first and headed back to the ship. A special thank you to Keith, our fantastic chef in Lindstrom, for the extra servings of vegetables the past few days; I am incredibly grateful for the clean greens! Fun facts: Belize only export the juice from their Valencia oranges; as the orange rind is green, most people think they are not ripe due to the colour Cacao beans were the national currency back in the Mayan days. The Mayans and the Aztecs believed (and perhaps some people still do) that chocolate was a gift from the gods Mayans make up 11% of the current population today Belize's favourite hot pepper sauce, Marie Sharp's, is award-winning on the international hot sauce circuit. Exported to many parts of the world 40% of Belize's GDP is tourism, mainly due to the cruise industry Eco-friendly country, they are earnest about protecting their wildlife; all species are protected, and they are home to crocodiles, five breeds of large cats, monkeys, manatee, southern stingray, black-collared hawk, whale sharks and Parrots, to name a few The tropical country is only 180 miles in length Creole is the local language, a mashup of African and British words. English is the official language, followed by Spanish. Join us for 'week nine' as the ship embarks on yet another new segment, the Central America leg, and as we inch closer to another bucket list experience, the Panama Canal.

From Halifax to Boston - History, Seafood and Nature Reserves - Canada, United States Week seven on our 13-week bucket list Pole to Pole cruise on the MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions, as we explore the East Coast jewels of Maine and arrive in Boston. Day 43 - Eastport, Maine, US As we crossed from Canada to the US this morning and were greeted with some tumultuous waters, the weather gods are on strike, a dramatic change from the day before. Eastport has the deepest port on the East Coast, and this region is notorious for its high tides and powerful currents. We don't let the weather get us down and are up bright and early to be cleared by US border control, who joined us on the ship this morning for a face-to-face and to stamp our entry. Early afternoon, the weather was still challenging, blowing a gale with sideways rain; therefore, the expedition team cancelled the lobster boat trips; our fellow passengers would have sighed with relief, as the boats were not weather protected, and the waters were not inviting. We dressed for the wet weather; our Canada Goose jackets were ideal for protecting us from the wind and rain, and we set out on foot to explore. Fortunately, Eastport is only a little village with 1400 locals, so we swept up the Main Street, took in a few sites and were then drawn into Phoenix Fine Wines, a wine bar, not only by the name but the live Celtic band playing music invited us in. We are warmly welcomed by the energetic and friendly owner, Laura, and the Celtic trio; we are in the right place. We quickly settle in the cosy chairs near the band and floor-to-ceiling windows with a glass of red and enjoy the backdrop of the ever-changing tides of Passamaquoddy Bay; you can quickly while away in the afternoon. We also ordered the cheese platter; all food products are sourced from local producers, including the cheese from the local goats, cows, and sheep. They have a selection of wines by the bottle, glass and small bites. We love supporting local businesses and are thrilled when they do. Opened this July, the wine bar is like stepping back in time. The Irish folk music transports you back 100 years whilst relaxing in the beautiful wooded surroundings and antique furniture; think of an old mansion library surrounded by books to peruse. The building was built in 1887 after the great fire 1886 decimated downtown Eastport. The buildings were home to various businesses over the last Century but were neglected in the 2nd Century and fell into disrepair. They have since been reborn as a brewery and wine bar for all to enjoy. Huge glass pane windows with an everlasting view across the waters, music, atmosphere, comfort and smiles from the lovely owner, accompanied by great food and wine all wrapped up in one. She has the formula just right. The locals were all very welcoming and loved hearing about our cruise and travels. We were grateful to have spent the afternoon in a beautiful wine bar to escape the rain and build memories of our visit to Eastport. We were joined by our ship friends Daniel and Sylvia, and then we bid our farewells and escaped back to the safety and warmth of our ship. Eastport would be a lovely little village to explore more when the weather is on our side. Day 44 - Bar Harbor, Maine, US Bar Harbor is a hidden jewel on the coast of Maine. It is home to 5,500, is the gateway to Acadia National Park, and is world-renowned for the famous Maine Lobster. A very picturesque town with a stunning coastline, it was well designed and perfectly laid out, a perfect village. The lifestyle was inviting and calming, spoilt with trendy eateries, art galleries, beautiful boutiques, and limitless accommodation options; all the inns were out of a picture book! Think stately and mansion homes. It was also refreshing to see a couple of locally made gift/souvenir shops; it's much nicer to support locals and see 'Made in Maine'' instead of 'Made in China'. The private homes were easily confused with the inns. The imposing stately homes had beautiful lush green manicured lawns with expansive backyards to the crystal clear waters and could easily host a family of 20. We left no stone unturned as we lost ourselves in the pristine streets of the village. At every opportunity, we would have also loved to take the Arcadia National Park (the most visited park in the US), which borders Bar Harbor. Still, we opted to be independent travellers and enjoyed the peacefulness of the village. I am sure we missed out on some magnificent scenery and photo ops, but we have learned as we travel that you can't see everything and have no regrets; maybe one day we will return, and a gift will still be waiting for us. The shore path was a stunning walk along the shoreline, taking in the private mansions and views they called the museum of the streets. During low tide, you can walk across to Bar Island, although you need to be careful to avoid being left there for the night. The wave was still in when we arrived, but it was a fabulous photo opportunity. Take your time to explore the hidden streets and be surprised by the hidden dining scene off the beaten path, with more locals and fewer tourists. After we had uncovered most of the pristine streets of Bar Harbour, we settled in for the afternoon at a local pub, enjoying a cheeky cocktail and lunch! Fish and chips were delicious, and you can't visit the States and not try the Mac and cheese, which also received a big thumbs up! Our lovely waitress was full of positive energy and good, honest service; she deserved her tip, not that she asked or expected one. We left for the ship with a bounce in our step. Okay, there was more than one cocktail, and the barman was very generous with the measures. We opted to enjoy a lazy evening and skipped dinner after breakfast and lunch today. We do try to limit ourselves to just two meals a day. Day 45 - Rockland, Maine It has been a moody week of weather; we have glorious sunshine every second day and the perfect fall day, followed by the skies wanting to ensure we have had our morning shower. But as we say, we don't let the weather get us down or in our way; it is all about our journey, and we are all waterproof. This morning, we arrived in Rockland, a classic Maine coastal town with a population of 7,000. It is also one of the world's biggest shipping centres for lobster. Rockland, located right in the heart of the mid-coast area, is famous for its natural coastal beauty and magnificent rocky shoreline; it is also home to the Rockland Breakwater lighthouse, where you can take a walk out over the breakwater and visit. We were up at 7 am so we could make the first tender and enjoy a coffee (USD 18 for 2), and the few hours of the day before, the skies were going to pour down heavily; fortunately, it wasn't cold, about 16 degrees, it was just one of those grim and wet looking days. We enjoyed a few hour's walks about town before we admitted defeat and popped into a cafe for a coffee and a little treat. We noticed a dramatic change in architecture and the homes from beautiful Bar Harbour, only 100 km up the coast. Rockland Centre was missing the richness of the character that other nearby towns were blessed with, or maybe we just took a right instead of a left. Before the storm, we returned to the ship of our dry and cosy surroundings. An afternoon of rest and then gifted with a magical sky before dinner. It felt like the sky was on fire on one side of the ship and a double iridescent rainbow on the other. It was a lovely gift from Mother Nature to let us know there was a reason for the wet and stormy day. Our plans were changed this evening due to Hurricane Fiona heading our way. Fiona is following the same path in reverse. We just sailed from Greenland. Captain Terje is keeping us all safe and decided to skip Provincetown and have us arrive in Boston while the port was still open, a day early to be docked and wait for Fiona to pass. We are excited we get more time in Boston to explore! Day 46 - At Sea, Boston Pier, Massachusetts This morning, we woke up to a very similar weather pattern; the sun was blessing us with its presence again. The morning was spent cruising to Boston; we enjoyed a coffee and shared travel stories with John. John and Sandy love travel, writing articles and sharing new bucket list trips and destinations with us. We followed with lunch and enjoyed being surrounded by the activity of Boston as we docked safely into the harbour; it seemed we were not the only ones; three other ships had sought shelter. Unfortunately, our ship didn't receive clearance due to our last-minute arrival, so we all remained on the boat for the evening alongside the other ships docked. Fortunately, the sun was still shining, and we could soak up some rays and say our farewells to our fellow passengers who have been with us since Vancouver and thank Laszlo, our Hotel Director, for all his efforts and for making everyone feel so welcome. We will miss all the friendly faces and chats with everyone around the ship. We enjoyed a farewell dinner with our lovely friends from the UK, the polar molars, and our favourite travelling dentists. We followed this with a quick drink with our fellow pole-to-polers and enjoyed some tunes from the resident crew band. Day 47 - Boston, Massachusetts First time in Boston, we were up and hitting the pavement early; we only had until 4 pm, so we wanted to make the most of it. We walked the half hour from the pier into downtown; the weather was kind today, and she decided to break her pattern and keep the sun around. We had a list of shopping items, but after getting a coffee to go and a new sim for the internet, thank you, AT&T, they were incredible, we decided just to get lost in a new city. It was bustling with tourists, and being the weekend, the locals were out enjoying the first weekend of fall; it was buzzing. After a few hours of strolling, we decided to do what we do best and how we get a taste of our new destinations: a lazy lunch! Thanks to Mickey for his Boston tip, a friend from the US we met in Ohrid last year, we headed to Little Italy in the North End. We settled on a gorgeous little family-owned Italian restaurant, 'Nando'; the owners even played in the streets as they grew up and continued their family's legacy. Our lovely waitress, Ortensa, was from Durres in Albania, so we loved reminiscing about our trip from 2020; she was so excited to meet us, too, as few are familiar with her hometown; when she was 18, she won the green card lottery and has been in Boston for last few years. After the most delicious Italian, it was time to return to the ship; we made it on time. Upon arriving back, it is just the 20 of the Pole to Pole passengers and the crew, so we feel like we have the ship to ourselves; it's pretty surreal. The sunset was upon us, so we enjoyed the sail away with Boston as a background and the pockets of scenery. Boston has a great vibe and friendly and genuine people. The expedition team scheduled a quick catch-up with the 20 of us to update us on the new hurricane for Tampa. At the same time, we hope to be in Miami, so the Captain is trying to cover as much ground as possible in the next five days. Hence, we arrive on time and safely before our next segment commences, and a new batch of passengers join us. It was an exhilarating end to the evening as we sailed through Cape Cod Canal in the dark at about 10.30 pm. Fortunately, We checked the ship's location on the Marine Traffic app and raced up to Deck 11 - Forward to ensure we didn't miss out and capture some great videos. It felt like a river cruise for 20 minutes, and it was thrilling to go under the low bridges and listen to all the locals fishing by the waterside in the middle of the night. Close your eyes 🥺👀😮‍💨 Cruising down a narrow river and just scraping through under the bridges. Our Captain, of course, knew we would make it all along! The first video goes under Bourne Bridge, and the second is Cape Cod Canal Railway Bridge. We realised afterward that the expedition team did update us all this afternoon; unfortunately, we were two minutes late and missed the first two slides. We must do a refresher on our German, and we would have caught this in the second session. Sailing through the Cape Cod Canal was one of the highlights of the cruise to date. Day 48 - At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean It feels like we are on our very own super (super) yacht, with the 20 of us Pole to Polers scattered around the ship, sharing it with the beautiful Hurtigruten crew. We stumble across each other during meal times. This morning, we enjoyed breakfast; we were up early, hoping to catch a glimpse of New York, but we headed deeper into the ocean as we approached Long Island. We spent the morning catching up online; we had the Explorer Lounge to ourselves. It was incredibly peaceful, and, of course, feeling a little spoilt by all the space. After lunch, we caught a few rays; it's time to start working on our ghostly white legs as we transition from winter to summer and continue south. The bridge was open this afternoon for a few hours; we wandered down to say hello, thank the team for keeping us safe, and enjoy the state-of-the-art equipment and views. We were also briefed on the upcoming few days and how we will approach and navigate the hurricane to remain safe and hopefully have no disruptions to our next embarkation day in Miami on Thursday. We also spotted a few of the new plaques presented to the Roald Amundsen for the maiden calls into some of our recent ports. It was also the ship's first visit to Halifax and Boston. The weather is the boss right now; the latest hurricane/tropical storm is forecast to meet us the same day in Miami, but as we creep closer, we will be near enough to work with it and hopefully have an open window once it has safely passed Miami. Judit, our lovely new hotel director, also offered to tour the ship's suites; seeing how the other half lived was excellent. The suites are very spacious and beautiful. We are thrilled with our cabin (Expedition suite - with balcony), especially in midship on those rocky days, such as today, deep in the North Atlantic. It was also great to come across a suite named in honour of Leopold McClintock, our dear friend Bill's cousin; we shared the good news with Bill. This evening, we were all treated to a Filipino buffet in Lindstrom. It was great to experience new cuisine, and although we have visited the Philippines many times, we realised we had never really explored the food. We love how Hurtigruten's crew are all Filipino; not only do they all have exceptional customer service and are a delight to be around, but after committing so much of their time to work, everyone needs to connect outside of work. It provides a sense of home, and as a bonus, the chefs can cook up a storm of their local delights when they feel a little homesick. A special thank you to our dear Rosalie for spoiling us this evening at dinner, bringing us samples of the delicious food so we could stay grounded (and we have no self-control so that we might have overindulged) as we were feeling a little fragile with the rocky movement of the ship. You are the best! We went to bed early this evening as the ship was in a rock'n'roll mood, and we found we are best dealing with this horizontally in the heavenly beds in the suites. Day 49 - At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean As we continue making our way to Miami, we are making good time and should be there ahead of schedule to wait out 'Hurricane Ian' in the nearby waters so we are prepared to dock on Thursday morning for the next embarkation day. We took advantage of another day at sea to catch up on work, prepare our week seven travel blog, and sample the delicious cookies the crew have as treats in the Explorer Lounge. We took the opportunity to spend more time with Judit to talk about sustainability, as this is core to Hurtigruten Expeditions' values, and they take sustainability seriously. Judit is our lovely new Hotel Director. Don't worry, Laszlo, we still miss you! The MS Roald Amundsen (RA) is a cutting-edge ship design with advanced battery technology; it is the world's first hybrid-powered expedition ship. As a company, Hurtigruten holds a strong stance on heavy fuel oil and the war on plastics. Beach clean-ups and plant-based menus made from locally sourced ingredients are another two ways they give back to the areas we visit and the planet. The world's first Hybrid Powered ship, what does that tangibly mean? Those who have cruised before know that each morning, the cabins at the rear are covered in a fine (or heavy) layer of soot from the diesel engines, depending on the ship's age. Not with Hurtigruten, as they run a Hybrid technology; emissions are cut by sailing with electrical propulsion. Innovative sustainable technology reduces the ship's fuel consumption and CO2 emissions by 20 per cent. We love there are no plastic bottles; all guests on an expedition cruise receive a complimentary high-quality reusable bottle for use at water refill stations around the ship. This simple act saves at least 1,000 plastic bottles a day. The portion sizes during meals are significant to Hurtigruten, as the right amount of food on passengers' plates minimises wastage; there have been comments regarding the meals are often too small, but of course, the team is very flexible for those who wish to fill their bellies more, you just need to ask. It is better to serve less and waste less than to oversize and destroy more. They are earnest about food management waste programs on all the ships, aiming to reduce food waste by at least 30%. Hurtigruten is committed to the UN's Sustainable Development Goals; these 17 goals are the blueprint for achieving a better and more sustainable future for all. They are also a guiding principle for B1G1 (the global giving movement), which we support by giving back to those who need a helping hand. We love that we have chosen a company aligned with our business and personal values. It was great to learn more about Hurtigruten's sustainability programs, how they source their food locally, and how the destinations they get their provisions from love working with the RA, the world's first hybrid-powered expedition ship. Not only does the company Hurtigruten, but its passengers also have the same mindset, so they can create valuable relationships with providers with the same values and continue to make the world a better place. In the evening, we were back in Lindstrom for dinner; Cesar put on the pre-dinner solo entertainment. Dinner this evening was a buffet with prime rib beef and vegetables; we were all excited about the baked potatoes, which were a treat. Dinner was followed by a beautiful skyline of sunset and clouds, and smooth seas were upon us this evening. We checked our new weather app, Windy.com (we are slightly becoming addicted to this app), for the weather forecast as we near Miami. Join us for 'week eight', where hopefully we have navigated safely away from Hurricane Fiona and Hurricane Ian to arrive in Miami and Belize safely for a new and exciting adventure towards the Panama Canal.

Phoenix Fine Wines - One visit We were drawn into Phoenix Fine Wines, a wine bar, not only by the name but the live Celtic trio band 'Joan, the bass player with Fiddlechick, Picky and Plucky' playing music invited us in. We are warmly welcomed by the energetic and friendly owner Laura and the Celtic trio; we are in the right place. We quickly settle in the cosy chairs near the band and floor-to-ceiling windows with a glass of red and enjoy the backdrop of the ever-changing tides of Passamaquoddy Bay; you can quickly while away in the afternoon. We also ordered the cheese platter; all food products sourced from local producers, including the cheese from the local goats, cows and sheep. They have a selection of wines by the bottle, glass and small bites. We love supporting local businesses and are also thrilled when they do too. Opened this July, the wine bar is like stepping back in time. The Irish folk music transports you back 100 years whilst relaxing in the beautiful wooded surroundings and antique furniture; think of an old mansion library, surrounded by books to peruse. The building was built in 1887 after the great fire of 1886 decimated downtown Eastport. The buildings were home to various businesses over the last century but were neglected in the 2lst Century and fell into disrepair. They have since been reborn as a brewery and wine bar for all to enjoy. Huge glass pane windows with an everlasting view across the waters, music, atmosphere, comfort and smiles from the lovely owner, accompanied by great food and wine all wrapped up in one. She has the formula just right. The locals were all very welcoming and loved to hear the story of our cruise and travels. We were grateful to have spent the afternoon in a beautiful wine bar to escape the rain and build memories of our visit to Eastport.

From Halifax to Boston - History, Seafood and Nature Reserves - Canada, United States Week six on our 13-week bucket list Pole to Pole cruise on the MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions. This week, a new cruise segment commences, and a changeover of passengers as we enter the Halifax to Boston leg. Day 36 - Sea Day, Labrador Sea Lazy day today at sea! Lovely, clean, and healthy steak and chicken lunch at Fredheim. The afternoon we spent blogging and launching week five of our adventures. In honour of Queen Elizabeth II, today's afternoon tea was scones, which was very thoughtful of the ship to provide a special moment to respect the Queen. A special mention out to two remarkable and hardworking cabin stewards, Sharon and Francis, whose smiles and banter continue to bring smiles to our faces while working tirelessly to ensure our suite is always immaculate. Day 37 - Red Bay, Newfoundland and Labrador Today, we arrived back in Canada; this morning, we woke to a foggy and misty day as we crept closer to Red Bay late in the afternoon. The day was spent relaxing, having morning coffees and lunch, and enjoying the green landscapes as we approached our new destination. Wayne was a gem and cleaned our doors, and we had crystal-clear views; hopefully, the sun will keep shining for a while now; we are heading south. We anchored side at 3.30 pm; the Canadian customs were back onboard to clear the ship; after two days in Greenland, everything was approved. At about 4.45 pm, we were on the tender boat across to Red Bay. Tender trips take about 5 minutes to cross the water to the piers. When the team have all their ducks lined up, it can be very efficient and have little waiting time. The sun was shining; it was a gorgeous day, about 14 degrees. The friendly locals warmly greeted us as we walked off the boat; they were an absolute delight and happy to see us all. We were given a little map with places of interest to visit and strolled around the beautiful petite village. It was quaint, with a warm community vibe. Very green, clean and well-maintained, with lots of flora and a pocket of nature with stunning views. Red Bay is home to a few friendly Canadians, shy of 200. Red Bay is a fishing village in Labrador, notable as one of the most precious underwater archaeological sites in the Americas. It was a central Basque whaling area between 1530 and the early 17th century. As we walked, we had many flies and insects join us, so to become prepared, our face masks were an advantage to avoid dining on these little creatures. We all had a few hours to enjoy the outside world and loved basking in the views, local village sites, museums and history. We were back on the ship for the evening to make our way to Corner Brook for the morning. After catching up with fellow passengers, the boat tour as you come ashore with Whaler's Quest was a huge hit. Be sure to look them up for an insightful cruise on the history of Red Bay, a taste of local beer and heating from the locals firsthand. Day 38 - Corner Brook, Newfoundland and Labrador We woke to beautiful rainbows across the skies; the ship was buzzing as we had a full day in a city. It had been a while since we docked anywhere with a population of more than 5,000. So Corner Brook would be a perfect city to explore for the day and, after one month, on a ship to stock up on those everyday items running low. Corner Brook is a city home to 30,000 and the fifth most significant settlement in the province. It is also the last destination for about 350 passengers who will depart in Halifax after 27 days on the ship, followed by a few of the hardworking crew that have been on the ship for six months now, so they are looking forward to a few months at home, and a well-deserved rest. Our goal today in Corner Brook was to get a haircut; after 38 days, we looked shabby and needed a tidy-up. As soon as we arrived in town, our first goal was achieved. We enjoyed the city by exploring and enjoying the local vibe and community. Being from tiny country towns of Moama and Elmore in Australia gave us similar vibes as growing up. The homes were neatly maintained, with no fences, so it was a very neighbourly town. We also took advantage of having access to larger stores and stocked up on our day-to-day products, so we are now set for the next two months onboard. It was nice to sneak into a Chinese restaurant for lunch called Dragon Restaurant and to enjoy a different cuisine after over one month on the ship. The starters worried us, but they made up for it with the main; the beef and black bean were fresh, with very tender meat, and Wayne was in his element with fried rice. Corner Brook is next to Captain Cook's trail and other magnificent lookout spots and scenery. A hikers' delight and excursions were available to those who wanted to explore nature. Once back onboard the ship, we were treated to a local trio performance by The Sharecroppers; we enjoyed listening to their beautiful stories of life and the history of Newfoundland through songs. One of the songs they sang was about a "one-room school'" this brought back memories of my primary school in Elmore, which had four classrooms, now has 26 enrolled students, and was established in 1875. Another song was a tribute to the Dr of the North, who introduced hospitals to Newfoundland Fun facts: Doctor of the North 'Grenfell' answers the people's prayers in the North. In 1892, the only way to access all the villages was by water, so a travelling hospital ship was born, and the Doctor of the North's healing hands could reach those who needed them most. Mummering or mumming is still a tradition in Newfoundland, where everyone dresses up in disguise to keep their neighbours guessing as they knock on doors at Christmas time. If the mummers are welcomed, they perform a dance, music, jokes, or recitations. Before offering them food or drink, the hosts must guess the mummers' identities. Day 39 - At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean It is the last day for our passengers, apart from 56 (36 of the 56 passengers are leaving in Boston, as there are only 20 pole-to-pole guests). It was a winding down day at sea; she was a bit edgy today as we ventured from the Gulf of St Lawrence into the Atlantic Ocean, but very enjoyable; we enjoyed our sea days. There are lots of farewells and chats with fellow guests leaving us; we always enjoy hearing everyone's stories and their future adventures. A special thank you to our fellow suite guests who could not finish their special anniversary cake; it was a very delicious surprise when we returned to our cabin for the evening! The Captain's farewell was this evening, and the video produced by the resident photographer Oscar was shared; it was great to reflect on the moments of the past 23 days. We sailed some waters at 5,500 nautical miles and covered many new destinations! Magical! Day 40 - Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada Early arrival in Halifax today was a new beginning for many excited new passengers embarking on a seven-day cruise. We were even up early enough to capture a pic of the sunrise! Super proud of us! We bid our farewells to our fellow passengers who had sailed the NW Passage with us over the past 23 days and our lovely crew, Belindah and Nenad; we will miss seeing them both around the ship but are excited they have a few months off. We were up bright and early to explore Halifax, the capital of Nova Scotia and a city of over 400,000 people. Our first impressions were full of excitement as we disembarked our home, the Roald Amundsen, for the day to become lost in a city; we always loved a vibrant city, and Halifax did not disappoint. It cuddles the coast and has a beautiful waterfront with a 3km boardwalk on the harbour esplanade, where you can stroll along and feel part of the city. Infectious young energy filtered through the city as you immersed yourself. It was well balanced, not too intense, but with a steady flow of locals and tourists—a popular education hub for students with several universities in the city. Many city events were scattered around the city, keeping everyone busy and entertained for the weekend. We came across a farmers' market and a local craft beer festival; they also have a maritime museum on the harbourfront with a large Titanic exhibit. Sneaking in a few cocktails and some new cuisine, Spanish food today. We enjoyed watching the people go by while we soaked up the sunshine. Canada is still training hard for the gold medal in the most expensive country, at CAD 150 for a cheap and cheerful and a few cocktails, plus your 18% tip. We returned to the ship during the afternoon; it was buzzing with new energy. As we sailed to Boston, the new passengers had embarked and were familiarising themselves with their new home for the next seven days. The demographic has changed; we see many more from the states, and the average age is under 60. We left at 6 pm and enjoyed our first sail away on the pool deck with the sun joining us as Halifax bid us farewell in the distance. We love the change of weather back around 20; after the past four weeks of being in 1-5 degree destinations, it feels like a new cruise! Day 41 - Sable Island, Nova Scotia, Canada Sable Island was always going to be an attempted landing; unfortunately, the large swells made it unsafe to take the passengers across in the Zodiacs. The Captain decided to circumnavigate the Island, and everyone enjoyed the new view and beautiful island landscape; we were blessed to have the sunshine sail with us and binoculars to catch a glimpse of the horses and seals (apologies for the poor imaging, but the phone wasn't good enough to capture the moments). The first pic below shows an unidentified object; could it be a fin or a buoy? Morning coffees on the balcony were a relaxing start to the day. Sable Island sits far out in the North Atlantic, a 42km isolated and decorated coastline of over 400,000 grey seals and 500 wild horses. Sand and grass were the landscape, with the Island surrounded by beautiful, clean sandy beaches. It is a life undisturbed; it was fascinating and must be a researcher's heaven, understanding how the horses can survive on the Island for so many years without assistance and be self-sufficient and healthy. Horses were introduced in 1760; surprisingly, each horse has a name. Fun facts: Sable (French: "sand") Island is inhabited by only a few families and a few hundred wild ponies Since 1583, there have been over 350 recorded shipwrecks on Sable Island. Tiny remains of the ships wrecked on the Island: a shoe buckle, a few coins, ship name boards, timbers buried in the sand. It's the ideal winter home for the world's biggest breeding colony of grey seals. In 1960, only 8,000 in the southern Gulf of St. Lawrence. Now, more than 400,000 seals come to Sable's beaches during winter to pup and breed. Captains welcomed this evening, where we met some new fellow passengers whom we have been chatting with via Facebook, so it was nice to put a friendly face to the names. Thank you, Kim and Jill. Catching up with the lovely Laszlo this evening, we will miss our daily chats when he leaves us in Boston, but he also needs his family time and a well-deserved break from us all. He was followed by dinner in Lindstrom and our first time sampling the vegetarian free-flow mince ravioli. It was so good Wayne had a second serving; it was like he needed more food!! Day 42 - Lunenburg, Nova Scotia, Canada Today, we arrived in 'Lunenburg', a postcard waterside fishing village. Lunenburg is a port town on the South Shore of Nova Scotia, Canada. It was founded in 1753 and was one of the first British attempts to settle Protestants in Nova Scotia. Home to just shy of 2400 people. Think Dawsons Creek for those in the era or Chesapeake Shores; this town is perfection. Everywhere you looked was a sensory delight. The homes are immaculate, the architecture is stunning, and there is an instant feeling of calmness. You just wanted to settle on the balcony of one of the charming homes with a glass of red and enjoy the majestic views. The streets were sprinkled with beautiful, maintained, and gorgeous stores. It is indeed filled with a historic charm. We loved the vibrant colours of the stores, and the people were a ray of sunshine. It has a warm and buzzing community and is well-visited by tourists. It is a coastal town on sparkling blue waters, with sailboats floating offshore. Lunenburg is also the proud home of the Bluenose, which was once the world's fastest racing schooner, built in 1921 and undefeated for 17 years. A national icon, it also appears on the Canadian dime. We loved getting lost in this small town and felt at home as we took in the views, crystal-clear waters, and shoreside homes. This is the place you have been searching for your whole life and want to settle and stay to enjoy. We only had a few hours to appreciate the beauty, but it is at the top of our list if we return to Nova Scotia and say hello to 'Jake', the magnificent Belgian horse, again. Fun facts: The most noticeable vernacular building element in Lunenburg is the "Lunenburg Bump", an enlarged dormer extended out over the five-sided or rectangular eaves. Most are situated in the centre of the front façade over the entrance, which may be in an attached storm porch. In 1995, UNESCO designated it a World Heritage Site. UNESCO considers the site the best example of a planned British colonial settlement in North America, as it retains its original layout and appearance of the 1800s, including local wooden vernacular architecture. UNESCO considers the town to need protection because the future of its traditional economic underpinnings, the Atlantic fishery, is now very uncertain.

The Northwest Passage - In the Wake of the Great Explorers - Alaska, Canada, Greenland Week five on our 13-week bucket list Pole to Pole cruise on the luxury hybrid expedition ship MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions. Day 29 - Beechey Island, Nunavut, Canada Today was magical! We had a nature landing on Beechey Island, an uninhabited island of Arctic wilderness. The weather was on our side, no polar bears were around, and the polar plunge was happening! We were so excited we were geared up first thing and on our Zodiacs as soon as our group was called. Beechey Island is best known for containing three gFranklin expedition members graves, first discovered in 1850. It was about 1 degree, so we were layered up to explore the island for one hour, got some steps up, took in the magnificent views and captured some lovely pics. We saw a geocache site with some time capsules, lust off a stone beach full of pebbles like polished gemstones and the most spectacular coastline views with sparkling turquoise waters. Next was the "Polar Plunge", where we could swim in the ocean! Wayne wouldn't miss out; he was out of his layers in a heartbeat to have a refreshing (and cold) swim. He was fearless, with just a little swearing to get him through! Another item ticked off the bucket list. After lunch, the ship continued until we arrived at a wildlife hotspot - where we saw our first belugas, hundreds of seals, and more birds and spotted about six polar bears! It was an incredible day of wildlife! The Captain stationed us in Radstock Bay on Devon Island for a few hours, a sensory overload. Pods of seals surrounded the ship; the beautiful white belugas were a constant shimmer against the coastline, followed by about six polar bears; one was swimming, hunting for food, and a mama bear was taking her little ones up the mountain. Fun fact: To remain healthy, polar bears must eat one seal every five days It was a beautiful afternoon of wildlife moments; we were all in awe! We were blessed to enjoy ourselves from our balcony, and we're grateful for our binoculars, as the naked eye wasn't quite good enough, nor the camera (iPhone) to capture the pics. All passengers with great lenses on their cameras will have arrested magical snaps this afternoon. Dinner in Aune this evening, as the roast lamb always gets us! It was another delicious meal with ever-attentive service from our King Richard and Armani. A special thank you to Nenad (our Serbian friend), who runs a very efficient and energetic team. We always feel very spoilt by the warm welcome from the entire team. As the evening progressed, we sailed past a couple of vivid blue icebergs, followed by another sunset and the surprise delivery of the Polar Plunge certificate. This week, we have been spoiled with sunsets! Day 30 - Croker Bay & Dundas Harbour, Devon Island, Nunavut, Canada This morning, the sun was beaming across the scattered sea ice as we opened our curtains; with a snow-covered island as a backdrop, we were sailing past Devon Island, which is 75% permanently covered in ice. We were attempting to land at Dundas Harbour, but the sea had other ideas, and the Captain continued to Croker Bay for a bonus glacier viewing as it was a pocket of calmness for the morning. This was our most northern point yet in the Arctic Circle. Morning coffee was on the balcony with the most mesmerising views of the glaciers as we navigated through the sea ice, a beautiful morning enjoying the best of nature. Soon, it was time for lunch after a few hours of blogging and publishing our four-week adventures. We landed a window table for our arrival into Dundas Harbour, an abandoned old settlement. You couldn't beat this morning, but the Captain topped it! He was busy navigating us through all the sea ice to find a cosy spot to park for the afternoon nature landings. The ship busily thrust all the sea ice from its path to clear our entry to the landing spot. Watching and being amidst all this ice and beautiful terrain. was thrilling The Zodiacs were released, and the expedition crew were off to scout the island for polar bears; they arrived back with good news, and the excursions were approved! They saw a couple of bears on neighbouring islands but stationed a few crew on the watch-out points with their rifles should the need arise to scare them away. Our group was second last today, so we had a few hours to wait until we were called. Once geared up with quite a few layers, even though the sun was still sharing its warmth over the ship, it was still very fresh, about 1 degree, and the wind was creeping in. Just as we were about to make our way to Deck 3 to embark on our nature landing, the sad news came over the PA that all future excursions were cancelled. The wind was getting more robust, and the boats struggled to pick up from the island due to the sea ice filling the landing spots. We were disappointed but understood safety comes first. Back in the room, we removed all our layers. We compensated with a few mojitos before dinner, chatting with our new shipboard friends to hear stories of their landing and enjoying the beautiful views as we made our way to Baffin Bay. As we were heading to dinner, we were all advised, 'One hand for you, one hand for the ship' as the ocean started showing us who was boss and was around for the evening. We all got through the evening with a gentle sway and were rocked to sleep. Day 30 - At Sea, Eclipse Sound & Baffin Bay - In honour of our Queen This morning, we woke, and the ship was very calm and steady, but the sea was still having a bad day upon opening the curtains! The strong winds were still fighting with the sea, which we suspect might make our visit to Pond Inlet difficult today. We were right; we arrived at lunchtime, and unfortunately, there was no anchor side and Zodiacs for a trip to explore. We quickly picked up a new ice pilot for our Greenland segment, returned our guest visitor Roger, a local from Nunavut and continued on our way. We navigated our way to Baffin Bay with misty views of surrounding mountain tops with a dusting of snow. Further along, we had sneak peeks of glaciers as we sailed out of the Northwest Passage for Greenland. During lunch, we all received an important announcement for our British passengers to confirm the sad news of the Queen's passing. This impacted all passengers of The Commonwealth and us being Australians. In honour of our Queen, we celebrated her life and thanked her for dedicating her life to us all over a glass of Bollinger (by royal appointment). She will be missed, and it was a monumental moment; we spent the afternoon and evening with fellow passengers reminiscing about The Queen and sharing our gratitude for her reign, one of the longest-running monarchs in history. It gave us all a way of measuring the passage of time. It was a defining moment. This evening was spent in Lindstrom with our incredible team to keep us smiling, and we had some fun moments taking candid pics before we retired for the evening. Day 32 - At Sea, Baffin Bay, Canada We are on our way to Greenland! Today was spent crossing Baffin Bay as we navigated our way to approach our new destination. The waters remained friendly all day; as we sailed, floating around us in the near distance were scattered icebergs for everyone's viewing pleasure. We enjoyed lunch with our new ship friends, Robin and Lynn, and loved listening to their life stories. The travelling Arctic Dentist and nurse. They grasped every opportunity as they became young adults, and the doors that opened for them have taken them to fascinating places. The conversation was inspiring; now they are visiting places they had once lived and visited over 30 years ago. The afternoon was spent recording a few video messages to our dear friends worldwide; we love checking in and sharing our experiences with everyone; the world is to be enjoyed by all. Dinner was another delicious affair, and we were again spoiled with a succulent piece of Bbeeftenderloin prepared expertly by the chef and served with lots of smiles and laughter from the great team in Aune. We lost another hour this evening, so an early night for our impending arrival in Greenland; we can't wait! Day 33 - Ilulissat, Greenland, Denmark Where do I start? Today is the highlight of the Northwest Passage segment (still seven days to go). Yes, we have seen the Aurora; yes, we have had to do a u-turn in the middle of the night due to our path being blocked by an enormous ice pack; yes, we have seen polar bears and snuck in a polar plunge, to name a few, but arriving into Greenland and being up close and personal with an ice fjord tops the charts. Mother Nature, you are the best gift of all. Let's first celebrate our 55th country; Greenland is an island of the kingdom of Denmark, so Denmark is our 55th country. Ilulissat is the Kalaallisut word for "Icebergs". Ilulissat is home to almost as many sled dogs as people. It has a population of 4700 and is Greenland's third-largest city and most popular tourist destination. Let's quickly summarise the day: as we cruise into Ilulissat, we are surrounded by enormous icebergs we have not seen yet; we are welcomed by two massive whales breaching as we approach the shoreline, or better yet, the ice line. The village is wrapped in an ice fjord; we jump on the first tender boat to make our way to the fjord (a short 30-minute walk from town); we are treated to a dog sled practice as we walk through the fields where the dogs are homed. Thank you, Arctic Living Ilulissat, for this enlightening experience on sled dogs. We were fortunate to see the dog sled practice and the level of excitement with all the beautiful dogs. We love how you put the dogs first, your high level of nourishment and care, your preservation of the Greenlandic dog sled culture, and your passion and love for this tradition. We are then rendered speechless by the fjords as we reach the top of the hill. We hiked through the breathtaking and colourful natural flora to the actual fjord to experience this magical moment for the first time. It was very picturesque, and we took many pictures to capture this incredible landscape and moment. Ilulissat Ice Fjord is 66 km wide and 555 km long and is a UNESCO natural world heritage site. The fjord is a collection of icebergs that have calved from the Sermeq Kujalleq glacier, the fastest and most active glacier in the world, one by one, with a speed of 40 metres per day. We followed this with a visit to the Icefjord Centre. It was incredible architecture with minimal impact and nicely blended with its surroundings, using only steel and wood to construct over two years. It only opened 11 months ago. It was imposing and a great way to learn about the life stages of ice, from a drop of rain to snowflakes, calving, drifting and melting! A friendly chap who worked there joined us for coffee and shared his stories about Ilulissat and the dramatic change they are experiencing due to climate change; recently, the permafrost has been reducing, and the houses are beginning to shift and become damaged; among the changes in the ice. Thirty years ago, it was much closer to go and touch; now, the drive has become much longer. In the Ilulissat Icefjord, global warming is evident. The Greenlanders are thankful for the growing interest in an issue they live with and adapt to constantly. The area is a site of extensive research undertaken for centuries and, as a result, is said to facilitate insight into climate change. We enjoyed listening to and hearing about the village and how tourism is doubling and becoming stronger each year from around the globe; it was a beautiful, charming community with excellent infrastructure, nestled among a seascape of ice. We captured a fantastic video of the dog sled practice and wanted to share it with the owners. Fortunately, being a small community, the lady from the ice fjord centre shared our contact details. Her name was Anso, and we later shared the video with her. They loved it, and Anso told us how much the dogs love the training; we could see how excited they were, too! What an experience. We finished the day exploring the beautiful town, the bright-coloured homes and the scenic views. The ship was joyous this evening as the crew and passengers digested the sensory overload we were all grateful to experience, thanks to Hurtigruten. Fun fact: Greenland is 80% covered in ice, and It got its name from Erik The Red, an Icelandic murderer exiled to the island. He called it "Greenland", hoping the name would attract settlers. But according to scientists, Greenland was Let'sgreen more than 2.5 million years ago. Day 34 - Sisimiut, Greenland, Denmark The ship received a wake-up call from the waters of Baffin Bay this morning around 2.30 am'; it was time to show us who was boss again. The pre-evening announcement should have been 'one hand for your partner, and one for the bed!' We had a sneak peek, and the waves showed off at about four meters. The ship is impressive in handling the wild sea; apart from a few bumps and creaks, she is very stable. A special thank you to our Captain Terje for keeping us safe and comfortable during these times, which have been few and far between. We lightly slept to the morning, and upon opening the blinds, you could easily mistake the whitecaps for sea ice; this continued until lunch. Our arrival in Sisimiut was delayed about one hour due to weather conditions, but as we neared our new destination, we were protected, and the sea had a breather and let us dock at the pier. Everyone was off exploring the lovely village in a heartbeat and standing on solid ground for a few hours to recalibrate the body. We opted for the walk-off self-guided tour and set out on foot to take in the colourful homes and beautiful nature views around town. Other excursions included hikes to a volcano and up the mountains or a panoramic bus tour. Sisimiut means "the residents at the foxholes". The second largest city in Greenland and the largest Arctic city in North America, with a population of 5600, is also the fastest growing city in Greenland. It has been inhabited for the last 4,500 years. The population of modern Greenlanders is a mix of the Inuit and Danish peoples, who first settled in the area in the 1720s. We first arrived at a lovely souvenir shop, which was also home to a litter of puppies; they had them on display for us to all say hello and have a cuddle. The lovely shop owner's daughter was sharing the dog mama's story with us, and we couldn't wait to stop in on the way back to make a purchase and support this lovely family. The whole ship was just as excited to find a souvenir shop, too; she flourished with business all day, making us smile. We continued walking around until we stumbled on a brassiere restaurant that looked cosy; it was part of Hotel Sisimiut. We stopped for a coffee and snack; it was so lovely we stayed for a while and just enjoyed the magical views. Chatting with the Thailand team andreturningk our basic Thai phrases after living in Koh Samui three years ago was enjoyable. We must note both Greenland destinations; the coffee was impressive! It was time to head back to the ship, so I made a detour to uncover new sites, came across a beautiful lake in the heart of town, stopped back at the lovely Greenland Memories Souvenir Shop, and made a cuddly purchase for the cabin. We welcomed 'Sami the Seal' to our family whilst supporting the children of Nepal in need with a portion of our purchase via Plan International. Sami feels at home already, and the crew enjoy his company, too. Golden hour was upon us, so we enjoyed taking some snaps of the bright and colourful homes on our way back, being cautious of the fast-paced traffic, not sure if they get extra points for tourists or were trialling to become a race car driver, so do keep this in mind. Fun fact: Why are Greenland homes bright and colourful? In the 18th century, Greenland received timber kits from Scandinavia to build wooden houses. Only five colours were available, and each one had a special meaning. Nowadays, many of the colours are decorative. Red: churches, schools, teachers' or ministers' houses, and trade Yellow: hospitals, doctors, and health care personnel Green: power works, auto mechanics, teleoperations Blue: fish factories Black: Police stations This evening was roast lamb and Pavlova, always delicious and early to bed before the moody sea was upon us again for the evening as we prepared for a sea day back towards Canada. Greenland, you were a treasure. Day 35 - At Sea, Labrador Sea, Greenland We woke to the morning update over the intercom at 9.15 am, welcoming the day. We were grateful to have slept through the night and felt refreshed, especially after hearing the waves averaged 5 metres throughout the night. The sea was much kinder this morning, and we expect the same for our arrival in Canada. Today's onboard activity was the bridge visit, which we are very excited about; as we have another two months on the ship, we thought we would give everyone extra space to enjoy as we will have another opportunity when it is quieter. Today was a distinct change in weather; the sun was shining, so we took advantage and enjoyed a glass of champagne in the sun on the pool deck, chatting and sharing laughter with our fellow Pole-to-Poleguests before dinner. Following dinner, tonight was a treat: Filet Mignon and Lemon Tart; we attended the Polar Molars session hosted by Robin, our Arctic Dentist friend, to hear his stories about practising in the 80s in the Arctic. We finished week five with the most magical sunset to take us into week six. Join us next week as we travel South to the East Coast of Canada and the United States.