Welcome to Bolivia. Travel doesn't always go as planned! How did we end up in Bolivia en route to Miami? We were scheduled to leave Buenos Aires (BA) for Santiago, Chile. We are fully aware Aussies now need a visa to transit, so we applied over one month ago. The authorities confirmed it was received, but that was all we heard! As we were in Chile last month for a few weeks whilst on the cruise, we thought we would try our luck again; we already have the stamps from Chile accepting us and still have plenty of time remaining on our tourist entry of 90 days. Airports have much tighter border control than cruise ships (we have since realised this is not the case upon arriving in Chile on another cruise ship), and we could not check in to our flight! It was 6 am, and after an hour or so of chatting with the accommodating airline staff, who went above and beyond to help us, they confirmed they would be fined. They would have to fly us back to Buenos Aires if Chile didn't accept us for the two nights to transit to Miami; we had no choice but to skip the flight and lose our money. The flights were about AUD1000; fortunately, our accommodation was fully refundable. It was now 7 am, and we were packed and ready to leave Argentina, so we were out with the laptops searching for flights from BA to Miami! Boom, we found one; we would fly to Santa Cruz, Bolivia, for a few nights and then bounce to Miami. Thank you, Chile, you did us a favour! We quickly cancelled the Oneworld flight from Santiago and jumped an Uber to the international airport in BA to wait for the mid-afternoon flight to Bolivia! We both wished we knew Chile would be a pain, and we could have avoided the 4 am wake-up call and hanging out at airports all day! Fortunately, the flight was on time. We had landed row 1 for our 3-hour flight, boarded, and were in the air bound for Bolivia. Never have we seen or heard so many dogs and cats flying (I am sure I even listened to a bird at one stage); other than the additional pet passengers, we had a very comfortable flight and caught up on some sleep! Santa Cruz is one of the fastest-growing cities in the world and has grown from being a small outpost town to having a population of over 2 million, mainly due to the expansion of agriculture (notably soybeans, sugarcane, and rice) and petroleum and natural gas mining in the surrounding valleys. The city produces soybean oil, dairy and meat products, refined sugar, wood, leather, and alcohol. Oil refining is also essential. Unlike La Paz and the other major cities of Bolivia, located high in the Andes, Santa Cruz lies at an altitude of 416 meters, and its climate is distinctly tropical. It is also known for its exciting nightlife and as a base for a wide range of exciting tourist attractions, namely the salt flats. We safely arrived in Santa Cruz, thankful for the cooler weather, about 10 degrees less than BA, which was welcomed. Upon arriving at the airport, we gambled on the local taxi after converting some cash without asking for a price; 20 minutes later and not being ripped off, we were in the hotel enjoying a cocktail on the rooftop, celebrating country number 63! We opted to stay in a five-star hotel unfamiliar with the country, as there was no time to research when you book on the morning you arrive. Marriott Santa Cruz de la Sierra Hotel was located just on the edge of the centre, but it was modern, clean and perfect for a short stay. The team was warm and friendly, and the hotel bounced back from the past few years. On our first night in, we enjoyed a quiet dinner in the hotel's restaurant, and the food was delicious; we were also happy to know we were still in the land of empanadas, as you couldn't get enough of them! With only three nights to enjoy our new country, it was a fly-by visit as we needed to be in Miami to embark on our next cruise, but we managed to catch up on sleep, visit the city centre, and experience the dining scene, which is very impressive, including the local wine; we even squeezed in a morning of hair cuts at Peluquería Marco Tulio and shopping for new outfits! Our first day was spent exploring the centre, just roaming around Plaza 24 de Septiembre, the city's central plaza, where locals and tourists alike gather to hang out and observe each other and experience the local vibe; we feel it is a city of two tales, the old and the new. Parts were relatively poor, and then you would come across a modern and contemporary landscape with many quality restaurants and apartment buildings. We even checked on some pricing of an apartment off the plan, approx USD50k. After getting lost amongst the local life, we googled and Ubered our way to a steak house, BRÍOS Restaurant, that was highly recommended and enjoyed our afternoon with what we do best: wine and dining! The meat was exceptional and nicely complimented with a favourite Malbec from Mendoza. The next day, we ticked off the essentials in the nearby shopping mall called Ventura Mall and followed this with another slow lunch. After reading the reviews on Piegari Restaurant, we had to squeeze it in; we don't like to miss out on dining opportunities. It was nice and quiet, with stylish decor, friendly staff, and outstanding food. We were very grateful we chose Italian for our last meal in Santa Cruz and also sampled a Bolivian red wine, which we were super impressed with. Our stay in Santa Cruz was short and sweet, but our little teaser of Bolivia has won our hearts, and we will find our way back to appreciate you truly! We walked freely; taxis and Ubers were plentiful and cheap, we felt safe, the people were warm and friendly, the food was delicious (and of excellent value), and the little we saw, there was so much more to discover and enjoy! Fun facts and travel tips: Card payments were used in most places; we even found it interesting how the keypads were laid out; the numbers were all jumbled and different on each console Uber was very inexpensive and easy to use to get around Santa Cruz People are super friendly and kind The quality of food and restaurants was impressive Santa Cruz is the unofficial Sloth Capital of the World; these charming and iconic animals can still be seen frequently climbing trees on the city's outskirts today. Bolivia is home to the most incredible salt flats (the largest in the world); we have heard repeatedly from fellow travellers that the Uyuni Salt Flats are one of their favourite places in the world.

Welcome to Buenos Aires. Argentina's big, cosmopolitan capital city, also known as the Paris of Latin America, is home to 13 million. Buenos Aires (BA) is also the second-largest metropolitan area in South America. Buenos Aires is often described as a Minestrone of culture; it's decorated history of immigrants and settlers from wide and far; you have the best of everything due to the worldly influences over the years; over 6 million Europeans moved to Buenos Aires. Day 5 - Buenos Aires, Argentina Upon arriving last night from El Calafate, Exploration Journeys organised for us to be picked up by our local guide and delivered to the Hilton. It was dark, so we only saw the city at night. Today was our first light, so we could open our blinds and see the city; we always love this part, unveiling a new view! Our lovely guide, Claudia, was waiting for us bright and early to take us on a city tour. First up was a visit to the city square Plaza de Mayo, lined with stately 19th-century buildings, including the parliament. Claudia shared all the juicy details of the city's history, including some sad information. They have been under six dictatorships, the last from 1976-1983. After the city square, we visited the impressive cathedral. From the exterior, you would be none the wiser, but on entering, you are overwhelmed by the beautiful design and collection of sculptures honouring those of importance. It was also the last home for the pope, who is now, of course, at the Vatican. The next stop was the neighbourhood La Boca, a working-class area with a cluster of attractions near the Riachuelo River. The main attraction is Caminito, a narrow alley flanked by brightly painted zinc shacks that evoke the district's early immigrant days; it is full of colour! Tango and football are up there with the president in this country. La Boca is also painted blue and yellow, as this neighbourhood hosts the football arena for their leading team. We stopped in the most colourful, cobblestoned and bright streets to explore the original abodes of those who came to Argentina from Spain, where up to 20 families would share the joint space (kitchen and bathroom) whilst all living in a small room—the introduction of yellow fever. Following this, Claudia was very insightful; she was getting to know our style and took us for our morning coffee in San Telmo market; it was fascinating, a food market full of restaurants and fresh produce stalls; you could easily spend more time here, we were just before the lunch hour so fortunately, we skipped the craziness of the crowds. Once our coffee fix was in play, we stopped by to visit another old home that was initially for the wealthy and their family, but as the people migrated from the south to the north of the city, the rich would rent the rooms. It would then become a shared living space, and yellow fever grew with even more families sharing. Our final stop was to visit Eva, where she rests. We will share the story about how she ended up there, which we will share on the weekly blog. We were a little apprehensive about visiting the cemetery, but this soon changed once we saw all the mausoleums where all the influential people of the city were laid to rest. The enormity of the expense and design was fascinating. Although we did start to get the chills shortly after, it was time to head home. Can you believe it is only lunchtime!! We thanked Claudia for the morning, and it was time for Wayne and Sal to enjoy Friday afternoon with a slow lunch. We found the perfect Italian restaurant, Sorrento, with a lovely view from the terrace, and settled for the afternoon. The food, wine and service were impeccable, and the friendly atmosphere was fun. Following lunch, we popped into a floating bar, hosting a jet ski competition in the city's heart and pulled up a pew and cocktail to join in the fun. A great first day in Buenos Aires! Tomorrow is a Tango show! Fun facts: The Travelling Corpse - learn all about the bizarre events that unfolded after Eva Peron's death and why it took over 20 years for her body to rest. Pesos exchange rate - Argentina is unique because they have two exchange rates. One is the official rate, so when using your credit card or ATM card, you are charged the bank rate, nearly half the blue dollar rate (the informal rate). Cash is best at this stage, as you get almost double for your dollar! For example $1USD = 163 pesos (official) or 280 pesos (blue). The government just announced that foreigners will receive the blue rate when using cards from last Friday to drive tourism, although it seems the world's banks haven't received the memo yet. (Update: Our Wise card now issues refunds a few days after as the initial charge is official, but you receive the blue rate a few days later) Football team colours were chosen by the players who worked in the port years ago based on the flag of the next ship to arrive in port, Sweden! Day 6 - Buenos Aires, Argentina Today was Saturday, and we had the day to ourselves until the evening. After a much-needed sleep-in, we were up to explore the city. We decided our first stop would be to exchange some cash. After we were cashed up, we headed to the fabulous San Telmo market for our morning coffee. Why try to find another when you have already seen the perfect coffee? We watched the city wake up; we were considering lunch there, but it was pretty warm as the weather was topping 30 degrees, so we jumped in an Uber and visited a restaurant we were impressed with in Recoleta the day prior. The restaurant 'Fervor' was on a leafy tree-lined street in the post area known for Paris-style townhouses, lavish former palaces, and boutiques. It was also home to the Recoleta Cemetery, which we visited yesterday, where national icons rest in extravagant tombs. A beautiful terrace table had our name on it. We spent the afternoon enjoying more fabulous food and wine and the mouthwatering pasta from the Italian influence in Argentina. This evening, we were treated to a Tango show at 'Gala Tango', so on with our Saturday best, and we were ready to party! By 8 pm, we were seated in a beautiful dining setting, treated to wines of our choice and a three-course meal. We enjoyed the company of our tables alongside us and swapped many travel stories. The big event, the Tango show, kicked off at 10 pm, and for the next 90 minutes, we were all mesmerised by the talented musicians, singers and dancers. It was quite the show and very impressive; you can see it in the videos! The speed at which they could dance was mind-blowing! Following an adventurous and fun few weeks exploring Argentina, indeed a country that has filled us with joy every step of the way, a special thank you to the most incredible travel agent, the excellent Fred Schejtman at Argentina Exploration Journeys. In a nutshell, we started in Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world. After our North to South Pole journey, we experienced the icy wonders of the world and the incredible glaciers of Argentina, including ice-trekking inside and on top of glaciers in El Calafate. Next up was Argentina's Patagonian region called Bariloche; this picturesque gem borders Nahuel Huapi, a large glacial lake surrounded by the Andes Mountains. We then immersed ourselves in Mendoza to experience those fine Argentinian wines and saved the best for last, the magnificent waterfalls of Iguazú Falls, unlike no other destination. After the perfect introduction to Argentina, we were back to explore more of this vibrant and colourful city and live as a local for a few days before embarking on our next adventure. Day 24 - 30, Palermo, Buenos Aires, Argentina We had booked a perfect Airbnb in Buenos Aires, located in a beautiful green and leafy neighbourhood, Palermo. After our research, this was the ideal neighbourhood for foodies like ourselves, so we booked immediately. It did not disappoint. Our Airbnb was located within a beautifully restored 1931 historic building, Palacio Cabrera and the apartment was immaculate. Our lovely host left no stone unturned in this prestigious apartment and ensured your stay was as comfortable and effortless as needed. You had everything you needed and more should you wish to cook at home; you were also welcomed with some treats. The interior was faultless with stunning design furniture, balconies were spacious and great to watch the street life below you, and a pool and laundry were also on the complex. The building was very safe and secure, with 24-hour security, reassuring when leaving at 5.30 am on a Sunday. The neighbourhood Palermo was precisely as researched; it was full of tree-lined streets, cafes & dining establishments, and all your essentials. We couldn't be happier with this stay and wished we had more time! We spent the first few days with our heads down and caught up on our work and some home-cooked meals. Fortunately, within a five-minute walk, we had a wine shop on our doorstep with an excellent selection of local wines, a butcher to satisfy our meat cravings, and a local produce store. We also loved visiting the newly opened organic deli for treats, La Juana Mercado, and quickly became local customers at the coffee shop around the corner, Elocuente café y Libros. The coffee was incredible, and we loved living local life again for a few days. It was the perfect way to practice our Spanish, and we can now order coffee (it's a start)!! When the weekend arrived, we explored the tree-lined streets, loving all the local designer stores and getting lost amongst the cobblestoned streets and alleys. The neighbourhood has a beautiful energy, and you can easily be in awe of the gorgeous stores. You won't be disappointed with the dining and bar scene too. We stumbled on a perfect restaurant for our slow, lazy lunch with the best team, food, and wine; it was a true find! Thank you to Lo de Jesus for having us and welcoming us back as we returned over the subsequent few visits to Buenos Aires. You always made us feel at home, and we left with satiated bellies full of delicious Argentinean beef and wine! We have both left a little piece of us in Buenos Aires and Argentina with all the wonderful new friends we have made and experiences we will carry with us on all future travels; we can't wait to find our way back (which is soon on the cruise a few times)!

Welcome to Iguazu Falls, one of the seven natural world wonders and the widest waterfalls in the world - Iguazu Falls. The falls lie on the border of Brazil and Argentina, sitting at the northern tip of Argentina. This is the next and final segment of our 'Argentina Chapter' adventure with exploration journeys. (Warning: you might need a bottle of wine, not just a glass, to get through this blog). Day 17 - Iguazú Falls Arriving late during the evening at the airport in Iguazu, we were immediately whisked away by our local guides to the only hotel, 'Gran Melia', in the middle of the National Park with panoramic views of the falls. As soon as we entered the gates of the park, our driver switched the headlights off as we drove gently through the National park to appreciate and immerse ourselves in the jungle - all the sounds of the night and wildlife, the rainforest scents accompanied by the open sky and stars, it was a perfect introduction to this wonder of the world destination. We soon arrived at the hotel, had a very efficient check-in and chuckled when guest relations reminded us the monkeys love to rack up our mini bar bill, so be sure to lock our balcony when leaving the room. They will pop in for a party and leave you with the check; this was a first! We checked into our room and were impressed; we loved the welcome champagne and treats. We could only appreciate the gushing sounds of the falls, which was already thrilling; we were very excited for the morning as our room had views of the falls! As soon as we settled into the room, we were on an email asking our lovely tour operator, Fred, to extend our stay for six nights; we needed to enjoy this slice of natural paradise. The water volume is the highest in over 20 years, from 1500 to 2100 cubic square litres every second, so you can imagine the gushing sounds we were already hearing, the thrill of travel and being in the unknown; we couldn't wait for daylight to be upon us. We popped up to the rooftop bar for a nightcap drink and to celebrate a new bucket list destination and the adventures ahead over the next few days, catching a glimpse of the falls under the evening sky. Day 18 - Iguazu Falls, Argentina A bucket list item is checked! The morning was upon us; we were so excited to see the falls from our room. I was up with the sunrise; no words describe the falls. They are majestic and enormous; a total of 275 falls over 3km wide. Today, we were booked on a jet boat experience to experience the falls from the water's edge, appreciate the falls, and feel part of the magnificent water flows. Our lovely guide, Veronica, met us, took care of our entry to the experience, and ensured we were safely on the truck. She also ensured we had water, repellant and SPF; we have started to call her Mum, and she is taking the best care of us. After a short ride in an open-air truck through the national park, learning all about the sub-tropical jungle, we arrived at the water's edge. You walk down 300 steps to the pier and join the boat. The team were experts, and everyone was quickly kitted out with a vest and waterproof bag and seated on the ship. We navigated and sped through the Iguazu River and rapids to the falls. The three musketeers were first, and our captain put on a show. We were soon close and personal with the falls and hearing the roars. The mist and gushing waters soon drenched us; it was quite the experience. Everyone had a blast and was on cloud nine. Although there was more, we soon sped along to the next set of falls, San Martin, where it was time for another shower, although once we started with the Aussie, Aussie, Aussie chant (with a boat full of Latin Americans, and the big game on Saturday is Argentina and Australia - remember football is the religion of this country), the captain decided to make sure we were well and truly drenched with another few showers in the falls, it was a load of fun and laughter amongst us all, and we were soon telling them Argentina is No.1;-) After 25 minutes of navigating, we were back at the pier to be transported back to the meeting point within the national park. The stop was only a few minutes from our hotel; the experience took about 2 hours. As you disembarked, you were also offered the video footage of the fun (below), which was great as it was challenging to take vids whilst being showered with the falls. We spent the afternoon basking in this gorgeous hotel, with access to a VIP lounge with complimentary drinks, food, and panoramic views of the gushing falls. We were also treated to a visit from the monkeys during the evening. Families of monkeys come to search the rooms for treats, so you must keep your balcony doors locked. We were all in awe of seeing them so close and how cheeky they were. We now understand why your mini-bar bill can be higher than you expected! What a perfect introduction to Iguazu Falls! Day 19 - Iguazu Falls, Brazil Today marks our 62nd country. Welcome to Brazil! This morning, we started with a slow breakfast, followed by an 11 am pickup with our lovely local guide, Veronica and her hubby, Fernando, behind the wheel. Three excursions were scheduled today, so Wayne and Sal were anxious about the day ahead and whether we would manage to tick them all off. Kudos to us. It was a successful day, and we achieved all three activities in Brazil and were still back home in Argentina by 4 pm. We made our way to the Brazilian border; 30 minutes later, we were being checked in by border control; it was a bonus: no stamps on the passport as we would return to Argentina within the same day. Passport pages are precious. The bridge across the Iguazu River (the border between the two countries), halfway across it, is painted yellow and green, the Brazilian flag colours. Our first experience was a helicopter flight over the falls and the devil's throat to see the falls from the sky. We were most excited about this, as we love our joy rides and visiting landmarks from a new perspective; it truly helps you understand the scale of the falls. After a short wait, we were up and away; I was fortunate to be seated up front, so I was in the best position to capture this incredible flight, short and sweet, but we looped over and around a few times the falls, a total of 10 minutes. Still, it was magical. We were on a natural high after landing. Next up, we were whisked across the road to the bird sanctuary 'Parque das Aves', a very well-structured bird park; it is home to many bird species that have been rescued and provided a safe space to recover in a more natural habitat, in an Atlantic rainforest, to enjoy a better life. We loved it; your proximity to the birds was enchanting as you walked the park. We especially loved the Macaw enclosure; you could relax amongst the birds as they went about their day. There were also a few close calls as they flew up above you. After about two hours, we completed the guided tracks, listening intently to Veronica, who was full of rescue stories and passionate about this project. A husband and wife set it up in 1994; unfortunately, he passed away two years after the opening, but his wife and daughters have continued with the sanctuary and should be very proud. The skies were beginning to rumble and open up as we were to embark on our final experience, seeing the falls from the Brazilian side. 80% of the falls reside on the Argentine side, so to fully appreciate them and capture magnificent photos, you should see them from Brazil. So far, we have seen them from an aerial view and the water's edge, so this was a new experience. As we entered the Iguazu National Park in Foz de Iguazu (Brazil), the skies opened, and the rain set in. Still, we were waterproof (no need for those environmentally damaging plastic ponchos) and presented an excellent opportunity to see the falls with fewer tourists as most avoid the rain. Fortunately, local guides could drive in the park, so we were delivered to the two viewpoints easily and quickly. The first viewpoint was terrific, but the second was like no other. The volume of the water gushing down and being meters away from the falls was mind-blowing! Just below 2000 m2/s at present, it usually is 1500 m2/s. Iguazu translates to Big Water in the native language, and you can fully appreciate this being in such proximity! You can also experience the falls from a walkway suspended over the river; here, you are fully immersed in the mist from the falls; with the rain settled in, we were again drenched, but a treasured moment. Thank you, Brazil, for sharing all these cherished moments during our visit; we look forward to exploring more of what you offer in the next few months. We returned to our hotel, ready to freshen up and enjoy a slow dinner! We had to celebrate this wonderful day of exploring with a delicious (and huge) Argentinean steak, a tomahawk paired with a fabulous Malbec. Day 20 - 23, Iguazu Falls, Argentina I enjoyed the beautiful hotel and magnificent falls for the remaining few nights. You truly can't get enough of them: the sound, the views, the volume of water. It is one of the most magical places we have visited, and we recommend everyone to pop Iguazu on their bucket list. Argentina has truly impressed us and has become one of our favourite travel destinations. Dining at Melia Grande Hotel, we enjoyed indulging in Argentinean Malbecs and meat. Sunsets from Melia Gran Hotel are mesmerising each evening. Iguazu Falls Fun facts: Only sub-tropical National park left in South America Iguazu translates to Big Water Venezuela has the tallest falls at 930m, and Iguazu Falls is 80m tall Iguazu is the widest, with a total of 275 falls. 3km in width, 80% in Argentina and 20%. in Brazil Brazil uses the water from the falls for electricity with power plants, and Argentina uses it for drinking.

Welcome to the wine capital of Argentina, Mendoza! Our next segment of our 'Argentina Chapter' adventure with Exploration Journeys. Argentina is the 5th largest wine producer globally, and Mendoza is home to over 1200 bodegas (wineries). Of course, Mendoza is the home of the world's finest Malbec. A fun fact we love about Mendoza is that the city has one tree per person; you feel this as you explore the city centre, as the greenery surrounds you. Day 13 - Mendoza, Argentina Our first day starts with an early morning pickup for Uco Valley, about 60 minutes from Mendoza. Uco Valley is relatively new for a wine district, about 25 years old. Uco Valley is at the foothill of the Andes, a relatively new wine region; due to its infancy, it has investments from the world's best and is leading with state-of-the-art equipment and intelligent and innovative approaches to winemaking. Our first was a visit to Bodega Enzo Bianchi, one of the first wineries in Mendoza from 1928; they have expanded to Uco Valley. We started with a tour with the knowledgeable Deborah, learning about the climates, elevations and winemaking process before we settled in with a tasting. They are rich in their innovative winemaking ways, including their approach to sustainable barrels. We loved learning about the eco-friendly process they are adopting, such as the ceramic eggs, which are much more environmentally friendly than the oak wooden barrels, as they can only be used four times. It was a private tour with another couple from Brazil, with whom we quickly became friends over the tasting. Here in Argentina, a tasting is basically a full glass, so you really enjoy the wines, and at 15% alcohol, you can feel it, too. Our second stop was Bodega Gimenez Riili, a larger group for the wine tour and tasting, but we enjoyed chatting with everyone from different parts of the world. It consisted of a quick time, which suited us just fine as we were getting hungry at this stage (we nearly devoured the BBQ lamb as we strolled on past), followed by another tasting. The wineries here are beautiful; most are set up for slow lunches and relaxing afternoons in the sun overlooking the vineyards, so it is an ideal destination for Wayne & Sal! After about eight glasses, we were ready for lunch. Bodega Andeluna, our third winery, was in a beautiful setting. A table awaited us; we finally relaxed for the afternoon, enjoying divine gourmet food and more delicious wines! Argentine wines are consistently very, very good! We enjoyed the sunshine with some new friends from Argentina, and then we were whisked back to the hotel to get some rest for the following day's tours! Day 14 - Mendoza, Argentina This morning, we dropped one winery to enjoy the beautiful Park Hyatt Mendoza and to start the day with coffee on the terrace; who needs wine at 9 am? Yes, that's coming from me! After a relaxing morning, we were ready for our pickup at 10.45 am to arrive at our first winery, Belasco de Baquedano, for a tour and tasting. Today was about exploring another region only half an hour from Mendoza. Our first winery is Spanish-influenced due to its owner. It was another beautiful winery with miles of vines! Interestingly, the wineries we visited all harvest in March, which is early autumn, providing the grapes with more growing time and higher sugar content. Our tour took us through their winemaking process, and just before the tasting, we entered a large room designed to experience the large array of aromas that you may find in the wines; it was incredible! We have been to our fair share of wineries, and this is the first time we have experienced the joy of scents and learned about the wine culture in such a way! This aroma sensory experience is the largest in the world, and their sister winery in Spain is believed to be the only other with the same experience. We loved it! The aromas sharpened your senses, made you question your instincts, and allowed you to store away in your memory vaults all of the scents that can be discovered in wine. This was followed by a tasting where the girls would challenge us with the aromas of the wines and keep us guessing! We enjoyed the morning and the private tasting, chatting with the young ladies and hearing about their goals and dreams. Our next event was a slow lunch at Bodegas Norton, now owned by Mr Swarovsk, which was the first winery to produce the famous Malbec, which an Englishman then held. We fell in love with the grounds; they were immaculate with the most incredible backdrop of the Andes. The restaurant was exactly what we were hoping for; we quickly settled in and upgraded our lunch to the five-course tasting menu with premium wines; the team were delightful, and the food, wine and views matched. The decor and design were minimalist, the attention to detail was immaculate, the pacing of food was slow, and you were thoroughly provided with the opportunity to enjoy your lunch with wines that showcased the food. Unbeknownst to us, on arrival,l sat behind us through the enormous wooden doors, where all the grapes of the wine fermented, using the latest technology, and all the stainless steel wine vats were sitting. It was a privilege to be offered some exclusive wines only available at the winery, even some still in the design stage; think excellent whites, being Austrian owned they are focusing on producing award-winning Austrian varieties, genuinely unique styles that will broaden the appeal of Argentinian wines. We were also privy to a cleanskin dessert wine, which was perfection. We loved chatting with the lovely, passionate sommelier Martina, who enjoyed it as much as we were. We loved the experience, and a four-hour slow lunch was the perfect ending to our winery journey in Mendoza. Day 15 & 16 - Mendoza, Argentina We took the opportunity to have a few days off from exploring, catch up on work, and ensure we explored the city. Although after a short walk in the 40-degree summer heat, we opted to enjoy lunch, followed by watching the World Cup as Argentina was playing, their energy was infectious, and it was a great experience. We are even starting to like (and semi-understand) this game they call football!! (Yes, I know it's Soccer!) Mendoza needs much more time, and when we return to Argentina, we will give it the time it deserves to fully appreciate and savour the world-class wineries and wines it deserves. It is truly a magical place! Next up is Iguazu Falls and a taste of Brazil, another bucket list adventure in Argentina; we can't wait to share the magic of this destination soon with you all!

Our next exciting segment of our 'Argentina Chapter' adventure with Exploration Journeys was Patagonia's Natural Beauty destination. Welcome to Bariloche, a beautiful town in the Patagonian region of Argentina, known for its natural beauty and pristine landscapes, and after one week, we completely understand why. Bariloche is nestled among deep-blue lakes and set against the backdrop of the snow-capped Andes mountain range. It's an excellent place for hiking in the mountains, traversing forests, navigating across lakes and embarking on exciting adventure tours such as rafting or horseback riding. It is also home to the breathtaking view from atop Cerro Campanario, one of the ten most beautiful panoramic views in the world, as rated by National Geographic), a nature lover's paradise. In 2020 Bariloche was selected by Forbes as one of the best 20 places to visit in the world, placing it in position number 4 on their list! Day 8 - Bariloche Let's meet some Gauchos! Day one in Bariloche was all about horse riding, one of our favourites! Ironically the last time we rode was precisely one year ago in Cappadocia, Turkey! We were picked up bright and early, along with our guide Juan of Che Patagonia, the lovely Fred of Exploration Journeys organised to ensure no language barriers throughout the day. We instantly clicked with Juan, and after sharing all our travel stories, we felt like lifelong friends, so it was great fun having Juan join us for the day. The horse riding ranch was located about 40 mins south of the city, where we all enjoyed the majestic scenery of the Patagonian landscapes and great lakes of Bariloche; this is definitely the lake district. November is the perfect time to visit Bariloche as one month a year, all the Scotch Broom is bursting with yellow flowers absolutely everywhere, so a constant pop of canary yellow borders the roads! We arrived at the campsite, which was also home to the horses, positioned by the beautiful lakeside. Everyone was matched up with a horse to commence the trail ride. As we had a bunch of beginners, it was purely a trail ride, whereby the horses would only follow the lead and were so disciplined they would not adhere to any commands; therefore, it was a very calm ride. Fortunately, we were surrounded by Patagonian snow-capped mountains, native trees and the lake, and we were lucky enough to go water's edge and ride alongside it for a moment. Our ride finished about two hours later, and we bid our new four-legged friends and gauchos goodbye. Next up, we were treated to a home-cooked lunch by the lake, with local dishes such as empanadas and BBQ, followed by a brownie with the Argentinian favourite Dulce de leche, which is similar to caramel, basically caramelised milk with sugar. It is delicious, although in small doses. The afternoon took us back to the hotel for an afternoon of rest and to prepare for the next few busy days of adventures in Bariloche. Day 9 - Bariloche, Patagonia, Argentina Bariloche is captivating; you are fully immersed amongst the Patagonian mountains and emerald green and turquoise lakes. This morning was the perfect start to our day, with mesmerising panoramic views over Bariloche. Our lovely guide Facundo (who we had some fun with and his name!) and fabulous driver Pablo, picked us up and ensured we were the first on the chairlift to avoid the queues and the tourists. Pablo was kind enough to skip the football as Argentina was playing. However, in hindsight, we might have done him a favour if you followed the World Cup. It was a peaceful experience as the chairlift rose us up Campanario Hill nearer to the skyline, where we could take in one of the world's top ten best views as rated by national geographic! The lakes with backdrops of snow-capped mountains and green meadows flush with vivid yellow scotch broom; the views were like no other! Next was our hike; we were tasked with a 2 1/2-hour hike to the top of Mount Llao Llao to enjoy more sublime views! As you know, Wayne and Sal avoid this type of activity, but we assured it would be worth it, so we geared ourselves up and thought of the afternoon reward, a slow lazy lunch! We walked the same path as Barack Obama on his visit to Bariloche; Facundo shared his secret spots with million-dollar views and was void of humans! Perfect! Thank you, Facundo, for capturing some magical moments for us too! The views were worth the strenuous activity; we pretended to take a few pics along the way to catch our breath as our Facundo was a little speedy mountain goat. We were very impressed with ourselves; we even completed the hike in less than two hours, whereas most we were told take just shy of 2 1/2 hours! Go, Wayne and Sal, the steak and wine will be well deserved! After our hike, our lovely driver Pablo was waiting at the foot of the mountain to deliver us to a local coffee shop set up for hikers alike. We all enjoyed an excellent coffee and treat; thank you, Llao Llao Coffee Shop. Once caffeinated, we completed the picturesque circuit for a final stopover at the scenic summit for more breathtaking views of this stunning town of Bariloche. Pablo and Facundo delivered us back to our hotel, and we quickly cleaned up and rushed out to secure a table for a slow lazy lunch at the best steakhouse in town Alto El Fuego. It did not disappoint; the team were a delight, the atmosphere was beautiful, and the steaks and wine were divine! Although next time one steak to share with be plentiful! We finished the day exploring Bariloche and with a late afternoon cocktail back at our favourite new scenic bar. What a day, and kudos to us for completing our very first hike! Day ten - Bariloche This morning was about navigating the Nahuel Huapi Lake of Bariloche and exploring the myrtle forest and Victoria Island. Early pickup by Facundo to make sure we could stop at a local coffee truck for our morning fix; it was well worth it! Coffee was followed by a cruise, where we would navigate the lake and take in the magical scenery with a few stops throughout the day. We were seated on the terrace deck, which was for VIP ticket holders, and we were fortunate it was quiet, so we had an entire section to ourselves. We were kept hydrated with plenty of local foods to keep our energy up. Our first stop was Peninsula Quetrihue, an enchanted forest; it had a wooden walkway to guide you past the exquisite saffron-coloured trees of the forest, and it was unique. Facundo skipped all the crowds with his shortcuts and found more secret hiding spots for those uninterrupted photo opportunities. It was interesting to see the pumice surrounding the beach due to a volcanic eruption. The second stop was Victoria Island in Nahuel Huapi National Park, originally a nursery for exotic plants and trees. Still, now the focus is on natives, so they have been removing the pine trees to make space. It was also home to a secluded boutique hotel with the most beautiful views, and we could see ourselves spending a week here and enjoying the peacefulness of the surrounding nature. Previously the island was also set up for park rangers in training to prepare for their new occupation. There was also a school historically used for the park ranger's children, now repurposed as a home for kids who need a safe space and a break from their current situations. It was an island that provided a sense of tranquillity and being at peace with nature. We enjoyed walking around and relaxing by the water's edge, a hidden gem. Today was another magical day in Bariloche, and we thank you, Facundo, for all the laughs, photography tips, and advice and for showing us all your secret spots. Day eleven - Bariloche Our final day in Bariloche was a relaxing day; we took the time to catch up on sleep and work. We then treated ourselves to another slow lunch at the best steakhouse in town Alto El Fuego, it was great to revisit the team, and we were just impressed with the food. You always go back when you are lucky enough to find a hidden gem! We followed this with cocktails at a beautiful spot in the sun, enjoying the local life and catching up with Juan for farewell drinks; we always leave a piece of us in the magical places we visit and always look forward to reconnecting with the special friends we make. The next adventure is the wine region Mendoza; we couldn't travel to Argentina the home of Malbec, without missing Mendoza.

Welcome to our new adventure, the 'Argentina Chapter'. Over three weeks, we have pre-booked our travels with Exploration Journeys for the highlights of Argentina. We have five destinations, and all transfers, flights, accommodations and excursions have been handled by the lovely Fred at Exploration Journeys. We only need to show up and enjoy; let's hope we don't get too used to this. During our second week in Argentina, we explored El Calafate, a town near the edge of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in the Argentine province of Santa Cruz. It's mainly known as the gateway to Los Glaciares National Park, home to the massive Perito Moreno Glacier (below), whose ever-shifting icy landscape is popular for hiking and sightseeing. Day 1 - El Calafate, Argentina You will need to bear with me as we describe our day. Today was honestly one of the best excursions we have experienced, and we are no strangers to excursions, especially after the last three months. The whole experience with Solo Patagonia was exceptional and flawless. This morning was an early start; we were ready by 7.30 am to be whisked away by our private driver to a nearby port, Puerto Bandera, to board an all-day boat cruise on Lago Argentino, the largest lake in Argentina, up to 200 meters deep and to navigate the largest Patagonian glaciers. About 40 40-minute drive from our hotel in El Calafate, we enjoyed the dramatic change of landscapes, surrounded by the Patagonian landscape, as we went alongside the great Lago Argentino. We arrived at the port and jumped in the queue, as our driver kindly queued up inside to ensure we had been checked in. It's great to see tourism back strong; there were about 200 people ready to visit the glaciers today. We approached the end, and as we were seated in the Captain's Club, we were escorted to the VIP cabin to see we were amongst 14 other passengers and the Captain, along with a spacious cabin with excellent views and a dedicated crew. Wayne and I were impressed and even more excited about the day ahead. It was time to depart; we navigated the lake, taking in the awe-inspiring views of Patagonia, and were mesmerised by the volume. Everywhere you looked, it was so big! We soon approached the scattered icebergs and flows as we inched closer to the glacier; we were incredibly spoilt with a morning cappuccino and local delights as we soaked up the majestic scenery. The boat remained stationary for half an hour to enjoy the panoramic views of the massive icebergs from the Upsala glacier, the largest in South America (60 km long and 70m high). The crew even fished out some 600-year-old ice from the glaciers. The bar opened at 11 am, never too early to enjoy a Johnny Walker black scotch or wine with glacier ice, accompanied by cheese. The next stop was the Spegazzini Glacier, the tallest in South America, up to 125m high. We disembarked for lunch in Glaciers Bay, treated to a VIP service in a captivating panorama restaurant. Our backdrop was the Spegazzini glacier. We opted for the local cuisine and tried guanaco meat, part of the llama family, for the first time; it was tender and delicious. After a slow lunch enjoying the atmosphere, we were back on the boat for an up close and personal cruise by the gigantic glacier. It was a perfect opportunity to capture the day. Being at the glacier's edge is a surreal experience; we have seen many glaciers from Alaska, Greenland, and Antarctica over the past few months. Argentina is up there with the best of them, second to Antarctica. The afternoon was spent cruising back slowly, navigating the channels of Lago Argentino to the port. We even had the opportunity to take pics from the Captain's throne. The team were excellent, and customer service was five stars. Our lovely driver was waiting to transport us back to our cosy hotel for an evening of rest and to prepare for our next excursion and an early wake-up call to visit another glacier, including a glacier trek. Day 2 - Moreno Glacier, El Calafate, Argentina Our Argentina chapter starts with so many incredible moments that are hard to describe! This morning was like no other; we were picked up by our lovely Luis and a local guide, Cesar, bright and early at 7.15 am. We were back in the same direction, but a bit further south to the National park for a half-day ice trek on the only glacier growing, Moreno. Once we arrived in the park, the glacier soon presented itself; it was very intruding, and the size was something else. Our tour started with a short boat trip across to the face of the glacier, where we all experienced the resounding roar of the calves and saw first-hand the ice tumble down to the water; it was the most surreal experience. We were soon docked and greeted by our ice trekking guides, who popped us into groups; we were in the English group. We all had a few minutes to pack our bags and prepare for the trek. Fortunately, they spotted that my shoes were not the safest (my hiking boots have a wedge heel), and they geared me up with some flat hiking boots, which was impressive! We started for the next stage towards the great glacier (another resounding roar from the calving) and were fitted with our safety hats and ice spikes! Now, it was getting real; we were at the foot of the glacier, ready to embark on a 1.5-hour trek on the glacier! After a quick 101 on how to walk on the ice with the spikes and tackle the ice's ups and downs, we all lined up neatly for the trek. It was quite the experience we had yet to be part of, so there were many wow moments, and we made our way deeper and higher into the glacier. We often stopped to take in the natural surroundings and capture the moments for our picture books! Surprisingly, it was quite the easy trek, especially for two novices like Wayne and myself; we usually avoid any strenuous exercise unless it involves wine or cocktails… so we patted ourselves on the back for participating in such an activity. As we reached the summit peak of the trek, low and beheld, they surprised us with a scotch on the rocks with over 500-year-old glacier ice and a little pick me up to congratulate us; such a lovely moment! We descended to the bottom of the glacier, and, another surprise, we had the unique opportunity to experience an ice cave; it doesn't happen often, but one has formed over the past few weeks and has a life span of four weeks, so one week to go. It was breathtaking, the colours and being beneath the massive glacier, what a moment!! This was a perfect ending; we removed our ice spikes and trekked back through the forest on the sidelines to the refuge to enjoy a little lunch; we had to bring this with us. Fortunately, the hotel prepared us with a packed lunch for the day. Next up for the afternoon was a visit to the balconies with panoramic views of the other side of the glacier that we trekked on, so we stopped for a quick caffeine fix and spent some time strolling the balconies to take in the magnificent glacier and listening intently for the calvings as they roared. What a day Argentina is continuing to surprise us with its gifts and share with the world. To have access to such glaciers is astounding. Safely home around 4 pm by the ever-efficient and safe Luis to enjoy a celebratory drink and bask in our incredible photos of the day! Thank you El Calafate! Day 3 - El Calafate, Argentina Today was a day for Wayne and Sal, so we took advantage of our free time and jumped online for the morning to catch up on work; this left us the afternoon to explore the town of El Calafate. The sun was shining, and as the afternoon welcomed us, we set out on foot from our cosy hotel to walk into town; it was only about 20 minutes and being surrounded by the magnificent landscapes of Patagonia, you need to make the most of it. It was the perfect time for a lazy lunch; after our Patagonian lamb experience in Ushuaia, we were keen on replicating, especially as the home of the first restaurant, Casimiro Biguá, is here in El Calafate, so we settled on a lovely table out the front and a local chardonnay to soak up the afternoon rays. Once the lamb arrived, we had made the right decision; it was succulent and delicious, even better than Ushuaia. After our bellies were content, we strolled the streets to take in the local vibe; it is a busy tourist spot, so many visitors were finishing their adventures for the day and looking for a bite to eat. We spotted a Gin bar on the way, so we thought a nightcap was in order and perched ourselves on a street table to watch the town come to life. We started chatting away with a lovely mother and daughter from Brazil and realised our following two destinations in Argentina we will be visiting, so we exchanged numbers to meet up for more drinks along the way (it was surprising how many times we randomly met up). A gorgeous stroll home to the lovely quaint family-owned hotel Roble Sur as the sun was disappearing, with a magical backdrop as we navigated the dirt roads home, providing a sense of home, as growing up on a farm, we are no strangers to the dusty road walks! Day 4 - El Calafate to Buenos Aires, Argentina Today was check-out day, so it was another leisurely morning while waiting for our flight to Buenos Aires. Our trusty driver, Luis, picked us up and tipped us off at the airport. The airports in Argentina all appear to have queues for miles, so we quickly checked to see if we could upgrade, and we were in luck; for a fee, we could fly business, which contained us through quickly and was a nice treat for the 3-hour flight to BA. Impressed with the flight, we were given a snack to make the time go faster, and before we knew it, we had landed in BA. Our local guide picked us up, and we soon were checking in to the Hilton by the river; usually, they are nothing special, but this Hilton had a charm and a beautiful welcoming from the staff; they were all very excited to meet two world travellers, so we had lots of conversations. The rooms were spacious, and after checking in, we enjoyed a Pisco Sour and early to bed; our weekend ahead was busy with the highlights and exploring of Buenos Aires (BA). We look forward to sharing our next destination in Argentina with you soon.

Argentina is country number 61 for us, and our first stop, Ushuaia, is an appealing pocket of the world. Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world and the gateway to the Tierra del Fuego National Park, one of the most beautiful spots for outdoor activities. Ushuaia is the end of the world and the gateway to Antarctica. We disembarked our three-month North to the South Pole cruise, checked into an Airbnb in Ushuaia for a week, and were blessed with the most magical views. It was a welcoming gift to be back on land and enjoy some home-cooked meals and our space. Ushuaia has a long and storied history, first settled by indigenous tribes over 6,000 years ago. In the 19th century, Ushuaia became a bustling port town with European and British settlers, whalers, fur hunters, and missionaries. Today, the city has become a significant tourist destination, with a booming tourist industry and a thriving cultural centre. Ushuaia is known for its breathtaking views of the Beagle Channel, the Andes Mountains, and the Tierra del Fuego National Park. Visitors can take boat tours to explore the Beagle Channel, hike in the National Park, and even take a scenic train ride to the nearby glaciers. We were in our element, and it ticked all our boxes! You are surrounded by snow-capped mountains everywhere you look (although rapidly melting as the sunshine kissed them all week), the ocean, and beautiful coffee houses for our daily coffee; you must check out Ana & Juana, stunning Airbnbs with views we were constantly in awe of and a culinary adventure, oh and of course the vino! It is a haven for all you adventurous travellers, too. Ushuaia is home to national parks in very close proximity, an abundance of treks so you can hike to your heart's content, boat cruises to penguin colonies and Beagle Channel and much more. We love this charming town at the end of the world and enjoyed resetting and recharging, maybe even having a few days off the vino! Okay, we lasted 48 hours! As the month is booked to explore our new country by air travel, a new adventure awaits. This time, there will be glaciers, horse riding, mountains, lakes, wine regions, boat and helicopter trips and, of course, the magnificent wonder of Iguazu Falls. We can't wait to share our next adventure in Latin America. For the weekend, we moved from our Airbnb on the top of the hill to a new Airbnb in the heart, making it easier to explore and enjoy being local and visiting a salon to brighten the hair! The location was perfect; you were in the city's heart, and everything was a hop and a skip away. The views are everywhere; you are enveloped by the majestic mountains, two outside balconies perched above the streets, and a little oasis. We kept ourselves busy by getting some steps on; after three months on a ship with a few half-day stops a week, it is refreshing to get out and be more active again. The main shopping street is spotlessly clean, with boutique shops selling various goods and dining establishments. The souvenir stores all have some class, not the tacky ones that line the streets of typical tourist towns. Friday evening, we booked into a fine dining restaurant, Karma, which a fellow passenger recommended. Unfortunately, it didn't quite deliver and was very overpriced. $40AUD for eight pieces of tortellini was uncalled for, and the meat dish was mediocre. Still, the wine was delicious, so points for introducing us to the pearls of Argentinean Malbec. We followed this with a visit to the local Ginoteria 'Jeremy Buttons'. We propped ourselves at the bar and enjoyed the staff's energy and impressive selection of gins and high-quality cocktails. Saturday lunch was the highlight, the Patagonian lamb Casimiro Biguá Parrilla & Asador Ushuaia. They slow BBQ over the wood fire a salted lamb in a room just off the restaurant. We were in our happy place, and we were offered to take some pics as we were leaving to get up close and personal; as most know, we love our lamb! Sunday was quiet in town; everyone had a well-deserved rest, so most shops and dining establishments were closed. Still, we found a beautiful restaurant, Augusto Ushuaia, serving Pisco Sours (the best!) and a snack; before our adventure around Argentina begins, we have three weeks scheduled to explore the places not to be missed, and our first flight is to El Calafate, home to Glaciers and the Andes! We can't wait to share our new adventures with you all soon. (It has been a jampacked few months of travel - and we are busy trying to catch up).

Let's explore Argentina together, sit back, grab a drink and follow us on something different: Argentina's grand tour. With only a month in Argentina, we've selected to use the services of a Travel agent, the excellent Fred Schejtman at Argentina Exploration Journeys. Fred has created a first-class bespoke itinerary on short notice to maximise our time in Argentina while allowing us a more relaxed itinerary without any worries or stress. We'll start in Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, after our North to the South Pole journey. Then it's off to experience the icy wonders of the world, the incredible Glaciers of Argentina, including ice-trekking inside and on top of glaciers in El Calafate. We'll experience Tango up close and personal in Buenos Aires while learning about the country's rich history and experiencing the French influence on architecture and the Italian impact on food. Next is a town in Argentina's Patagonia region called Bariloche. It borders Nahuel Huapi, a large glacial lake surrounded by the Andes Mountains and also known for its Swiss alpine-style architecture, heavily influenced by Germans and its chocolate. We will also horse ride, hike, and navigate the beautiful lakes by kayaks and boats. Next will be an extended stay in Mendoza to experience those fine Argentinian wines, winery tours and sunset horse riding. Our final destination is the magnificent waterfalls we will explore in-depth at Iguazú falls for three nights. We will then complete our travels to Argentina with an extended stay of nearly two weeks in Buenos Aires and explore life as a local. Value for money - Good Security - Great People - Friendly Travel - Easy Length - One month When - November Transfers - Ubers, planes and private transfers Accommodation - Hotels and Airbnb Tipping - 10%

Patagonia & Antarctica Ultimate Adventure - Antarctica In the final week of our 13-week Pole to Pole cruise on the MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions, we experience the big white wonder of the world and our 7th continent - Antarctica. Day 85 - At Sea, Cape Horn & Drake Passage We started the day with the news we had been waiting for for over 85 days: we won the lottery for kayaking in Antarctica and were in Group A, which provided us with the highest chance to get out on the water should the weather permit. We were very fortunate, as most of the 400 passengers also had this activity on their bucket list, with only four landings scheduled, a maximum of two sessions per landing and eight kayaks per session; you do the math, we were two lucky ones. Crossing the Drake Passage takes about two days; we had heard so many horror stories over the past few months from fellow passengers who had experienced the 'Drake Shake', so we were very fortunate to be blessed with the 'Drake Lake' for our crossing. Yesterday, we were scheduled for a landing on Cape Horn. Unfortunately, the winds were too strong, resulting in a no-go, so we continued our path to the Antarctic Peninsula. When we first set out on this cruise, we were unaware that the chances of landing on the mainland of Antarctica were meagre, as we had booked a Pole-to-Pole cruise. As most are quick to let you know, our landings would be on the South Shetland Islands and the Antarctic Peninsula; this is not Antarctica. Therefore, you haven't visited Antarctica. Although we suggest otherwise, as we have come this far, the peninsula is part of visiting Antarctica in our book. It's a little like you have seen Tasmania, and then to find out you haven't been to Australia, or you have been to Koh Samui, but have you been to Thailand - yes, of course! Today was making the most of a relaxing sea bay before the big arrival. Day 86 - Half Moon Island, South Shetland Islands, Antarctica Welcome to our final continent; all seven are now ticked off! This continent has always been on our bucket list, and finally, setting foot on the icy continent of Antarctica has been fulfilled. As the fog lifted this morning to present the majestic views, they were breathtaking, like nothing we have ever seen. Blessed to be joined by the sun and blue skies, we cruised closer to the first land we had seen over the past few days. The pictures were priceless and a great taster of what was to come. There is so much ice! The elevations were surprising; these mountains are enormous! We later learned Antarctica has the highest average heights in the world. Our kayaking adventure was postponed due to the stronger winds, so we layered up for the landing on Half Moon Island. As we approached the island, we could see all the little penguins and spotted a few whales, so we were excited! Especially as it is usually too early in the season for whales. The landing took us across to land where we could experience being up close and personal with the penguins, two breeds; the main colony were chinstraps who come to breed (up to 15000 eventually) and then the Gentoos who come to hang out by the water. They were adorable and clumsy as they would make their way down to the sea to feed, constantly tripping over their little feet; you could sit by and watch them all day. They didn't seem to be bothered by us humans, so they continued getting on with their day. It was cold, around zero, so thankfully, we layered up and enjoyed the hour on land. We were mesmerised by the natural wonder and adorable penguins surrounding us. As we were leaving, we sat with the penguins, just enjoying being near these birds full of character; oversee the following for a giggle, the one on the left:-) We can't wait for the next few days to experience this majestic place on Earth. Day 87 - Wilhelmina Bay, Antarctica Today was fascinating; let's start in reverse! Heavy snow set in during dinner, and we scored a window table to ensure we could experience heavy snowfall while cruising; the first time we had been on a cruise and the ocean with snow, it was pretty surreal and beautiful, especially in Antarctica. It was heavy snow, and the snowflakes were the size of a cotton plant; it was what movies and picture books are made about. As dinner progressed, the deep blue ocean that engulfed us transitioned into a tinge of foggy grey; it was freezing over as the snow settled, and a thin layer of sea ice was beneath us. Let's jump back to the morning; it was an early start as our Kayaking was scheduled; take two. We made sure to fill our bellies with some fuel, and during breakfast, the news came it was cancelled. The weather was changing rapidly, and snow was gracing us with her presence; we did enjoy the morning show with the seals relaxing on the icebergs as we cruised by. The ship quickly changed its navigation from our original destination, Orne Harbour, to a new location, Wilhelmina Bay, where we could bring out the zodiacs and all get a chance for a scenic cruise through the sea ice and flows and be within inches of the icebergs. Before lunch, we explored the ship; seeing it covered in snowfall was a surreal experience. After lunch, we geared up; as the snow settled in, we loved popping back to our room to measure the snowfall; it felt like a winter wonderland with snow filling your balcony and a little like Christmas. We love it. Brendan was our host and zodiac driver through the sea ice for one hour, providing us with lots of insights on the icebergs, sea ice and all about the nearby birdlife as he expertly dodged and weaved all the ice flows and icebergs with limited vision. Being part of the sea as it began to ice up was also fascinating. It has the same texture as a slushy; the water on the surface becomes a light shade of grey and is mushy. Great work, and thank you, Brendan, for keeping us safe. After being woken up on the water and showered with snow, we returned to the ship to bring our body temperature back to normal, prepare for dinner, and wait for the boat to unveil our next destination as we explore Antarctica. Unfortunately, the passengers who had booked the camping on the ice due to the weather were also cancelled. Day 88 - Neko Harbour, Antarctica Will we kayak in Antarctica? It is becoming a million-dollar question. Another early morning for take 3 for us kayakers who were the fortunate ones in Group A (this means we were first to kayak before all other groups). It was 8.05 am, so it was time to pop into our cold suits; one leg in, the announcement popped up that it had been cancelled, and the wind was picking up. So close! Fortunately, the zodiac was still on, and we happened to be in the first group of the day, so we dressed up for the cruising and went down to the expedition landing. We were first on the boats and surprised it was a little warmer than yesterday, much more civilised with only light snow dust. We navigated the sea ice and enormous icebergs on the hunt for some sealife; penguins were the day's spot. The icebergs glistened in the water as the sun peeked through the clouds. Just remember that the visible part of the iceberg is only 10-20% of the actual size, so most of the berg lives underwater. We could see the entire length with the water pristine, and it was just wow! On the way back to the ship, we came across a sensational raft of gentoo penguins. Forty-five minutes later, we were back on the ship, and the weather was closing in, and the captain was concerned with all the sea ice also closing in on the boat that we could be iced in the harbour, so it was time to pack up and move on. We made our way for Danco Bay, and take 4 of Kayaking was on the schedule, fingers crossed. The ship changed direction again, and a new destination was on the map until the wind blessed us with her presence at up to 90 knots at one stage, so the ship maintained its position to keep us all comfortable and to wait out Mother Nature. Later in the evening, she cruised along the majestic coastline of Antarctica, filling our senses with icy mountain peaks and wonders. We sailed into Damoy Point, a rocky headland on the west coast of Wiencke Island, filling us with more delight with the size of the glaciers. The ship decided to spend the evening as the weather conditions were good, and activities looked promising for our last day in Antarctica tomorrow. Let's go Kayaking! Today was spent enjoying the changing weather and genuinely appreciating the perils of the weather. I was fortunate to sneak in a 'patchy video' call to Mum and Dad to share the experience of the wonders of the world. Day 89 - Dorian Bay, Antarctica The million-dollar question has been answered, and we have hit the 'Kayaking in Antarctica' jackpot! 🛶 This morning, we woke early to calm waters and weather. It was five, and we were optimistic it would happen! With our cold suits and straight to the meeting point, there was no wasted time. The sooner we were on the water, the sooner it was to become a reality. Fourteen of our fellow kayakers were on the same page, and everyone was ready. We were given finishing touches to our Kayaking outfit, a unique life jacket and gloves to keep us dry and hopefully warm. We piled into the zodiacs for a short five-minute cruise across to the waiting kayaks, and one by one, we were loaded into our kayak, two per kayak. Wayne was in the back, and I was seated up front as the head photographer. Fine by me, as poor hubby would need to do all the paddling (which, after knowing my rhythm, he much preferred to take control). Before we embarked on this magical experience through sea ice, we had a quick practice and 101 on manoeuvring the kayak and, of course, staying above the water. This moment was one we had been waiting for. It is nearly 90 days since we departed Vancouver, and we were hoping to kayak in the Arctic Circle; unfortunately, the weather continued to close the opportunities. The paddling commenced, and it was surreal. We were all lined up, navigating on the water's surface through large chunks of sea ice; the paddles driving their way through the ice chunks were eerily sounding but surreal and peaceful. We arrived at the most magnificent turquoise iceberg to capture pictures up close and personal. Unbeknown to us - this same iceberg would calve and start the process of tipping over a few hours later, which we were fortunate to witness from our balcony - play with sound. We continued closer to Damoy Point, a research station home to a Gentoo penguin colony. The station was being prepared for the arrival of four female researchers to spend the summer in a few weeks, so we all floated amongst the sea ice and bergs to enjoy the serenity, overshadowed by dramatic icy mountain peaks. We watched the penguins go about their day, swimming and diving, waddling, and even swimming beneath our kayaks in the crystal waters beneath us. It was one of those magical moments that will remain with you forever. After about 1.5 hours, we returned through the sea ice. We were all becoming familiar with paddling through (or, in my case, my darling hubby was); I was too busy trying to get my little fingers and toes to circulate again and keep the phone from going for a swim in below-zero waters). We approached the ship and were to wait for our zodiacs to pick us up and take us back to our cosy cabins; they were running a little behind, so we took the opportunity to row around the ship. It was magnificent to experience this impressive vessel from the exterior and at the water level; it was surreal. We were shortly picked up once we reached the stern and delivered back to the ship. A huge thank you to Molly and Orto from the Expedition team for a memorable experience kayaking in Antarctica; it was the perfect ending to our three months onboard. The afternoon was spent enjoying a lazy lunch, reviewing the incredible photos we captured, and celebrating ticking off another bucket list experience. Kudos to Hurtigruten Expeditions for being the first cruise ship to launch Kayaking in Antarctica this summer; we were the first group out on the water this season 👏 We were scheduled for a zodiac landing later in the evening to walk through the snow and see another penguin colony, but we decided to opt-out, as it was on the peninsula. We were all hoping it was on the mainland; therefore, we wanted to stay on our natural high from the morning; it was our perfect ending to Antarctica. Dinner was spent back in Lindstrom chatting with our new Aussie friends and enjoying drinks as we entered the Drake Passage, all with fingers crossed it would bless us with a crossing of the 'Drake Lake', not the 'Drake Shake'. Day 90 - Drake Passage The Lake is slowly becoming the Shake! Therefore, it has been a slow day. We enjoyed lunch and a bottle of wine; the afternoon was spent hiding away in the suite to stay horizontal! We find it much easier on the body; the motion sickness creeps in as soon as you wander around. Fortunately, it takes quite a rocky ship now to upset us, and we know how to avoid it! Dinner was quick, and back to bed! One of those days! A little penguin love and kayaking highlights; I hope it gives you as much joy as it does me:-) Day 91 - Drake Passage This marks our last day at sea for three months. Fortunately, the Drake was easing up as we approached land around noon. We enjoyed our last day over a lazy lunch at Fredheim, thanking the team and preparing to pack our cases and disembark for the morning. Before dinner, we enjoyed catching up with the Pole-to-Pole guests for the captain's farewell; drinks were overflowing as everyone was sharing all the unused bottles of bubbles and shipboard credit, as you can't take it with you. This was followed by a fun evening with a group of lovely Aussies we met on this segment; it was full of laughter and entertainment from the crew. We were incredibly grateful to the lovely crew, who cared for us throughout the cruise; you all made our trip more delightful. Thank you, team; we will miss your friendly smiles and daily chats. Beautiful moonlight glistened over the ocean as our next and final destination, Ushuaia, welcomed us. Thank you for travelling with us as we embarked three months ago on our 'once-in-a-lifetime' cruise from North to South Pole; we hope you enjoyed our travel moments as much as we enjoyed visiting parts of the world on our bucket list. Join us as we experience our next adventure, the 'Argentina Chapter', one month exploring a new part of the world.

Patagonia & Antarctica Ultimate Adventure - Southern Chile, Latin America In week 12 of our 13-week pole-to-pole cruise on the MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions, we cruise and explore the southern coast of Chile and experience the majestic Chilean fjords. Day 78 - Castro, Chile The dramatic change of scenery as we cruised the Chilean coast was a welcoming gift. Chile has a coastline of 6500 km. The first week was spent cruising the Atacama desert, and now we feel we are in the Sound of Music with rolling lush green meadows sprinkled with wildflowers. We arrived in Castro this morning, a beautiful picturesque town on Chiloé Island in Chile's Lake District. You have a familiar sense of New England, surrounded by rolling green hills. It is unique, especially with the colourful wooden stilt houses that line the waterfront. Today, we opted for 'Sal & Wayne' style, bypassing all the excursions to get lost in a city and escape the crowds. It was a perfect city to explore by foot; the city centre was moments from the pier. We enjoyed exploring and hunting down a local cafe to experiment with the coffee. Unfortunately, the first cafe scored no points, but we were impressed with the second find, a local bakery. I continued exploring the city, catching a glimpse of the Church of San Francisco. Declared World Heritage by UNESCO in 2000, it is one of the most important historical buildings in the city. We stumbled on a viewpoint with a cascading view of the vividly coloured homes on stilts across the low tide, along with another smaller pocket on the other side of Castro. This set us up to enjoy the waterside walk and beautiful, unique homes; unfortunately, a fire struck six homes the year prior, and they were busy rebuilding the beautiful homes. We popped in for a coffee along the way; a gorgeous new boutique hotel 'Sizigia Hotel' was now occupying the space, We followed coffee with lunch on the deck with a view at the nearby local restaurant 'Sabores de mi Tierra'. Settling in to enjoy the local Pisco Sours, you only needed a couple at this fabulous restaurant; let's say they were well balanced with the Pisco, definitely on the sour side, which was our preference. The food was excellent, the freshest of fish and the atmosphere surrounded by friendly locals dining, and the magical hills and fishermen, oh and seabirds keeping you entertained—a perfect afternoon. Some of the beautiful and eclectic homes and architecture as we wandered back to the ship, with some dancing on the pier to finish the day. Castro is a perfect destination to slow life down. It is a very safe city, and you are spoiled with luxury boutique accommodation, high-quality dining, warm and friendly people, scenic views, and being on the Chilean Fjords' doorstep. The late afternoon sail away was sensory overload as we cruised out of the rolling green hills, giving us a taste of what was to come as we entered the magnificent Chilean Fjords. Day 79 - At Sea, South Pacific Ocean, Chile Enjoying the scenery and views as we approached the Chilean Fjords, the misty weather provided a beautiful backdrop. Today was a great excuse to take the time to have one of those much-needed chill days; who doesn't love one of those? Especially when you have the scenery below as you enjoy a lazy lunch and dinner in Lindstrom. Part of the day was also spent in the open ocean, so we did experience some rocky waters, which is always best to spend motionless to avoid sea sickness. Day 80 - Puerto Eden, Chile After navigating through the channels and fjords, our first destination in the Magallanes Region was Puerto Edén. It is a Chilean hamlet and minor port located on Wellington Island and considered one of Chile's most isolated inhabited places, together with Easter Island and Villa Las Estrellas. Puerto Edén is hidden deep in the Chilean fjords, off the beaten path, with a tiny community of 170. We were on the first excursion, and the climate change reminded us we were getting closer to Antarctica, and the skies were open, which is very common to Puerto Edén. A resident guided us through the perimeter of the small village; they had a neat walkway from end to end with a few lookout spots as we strolled with the skies of Mother Nature, learning about village life. A bit further south, you will find Brüggen Glacier, the longest glacier in the southern hemisphere outside Antarctica, and unlike most glaciers, it has been growing. The afternoon was spent navigating the channels southbound for Patagonia. The vast amount of waterfalls as we cruised was a sensory overload. Never have we seen so many waterfalls cascading from the melting snow; they were scattered along the magnificent coastline as we exited this beautiful scenery. Day 81 - Torres del Paine, Chile Welcome to Puerto Natales, a port city on the Señoret Channel in Chile's southern Patagonia. It is the gateway to the famous Torres del Paine National Park. As we opened the blinds this morning, we were surrounded by snow-capped mountains and couldn't wait to be whisked away on our full-day excursion. The Pole to Polers was first up, and we were eagerly waiting as we headed to Torres del Paine, the UNESCO national park listed in 1978 and the 8th natural wonder in the world to visit the Gray Glacier. It was about a two-hour drive to the entry, and we all enjoyed the magnificent scenery along the way and hearing all about the juicy details of the region from our very knowledgeable guide, Gabriela. Upon arriving in the park, we were transported about half an hour deep in preparation for our boat cruise across the lake to get up close and personal with the Gray Glacier. We all settled in for a speedy lunch at the Gray Hotel, where the bar and restaurant overlook the glorious mountains and glaciers. Wayne and I even squeezed in a Pisco Sour on a mission to try as many as possible in Chile. They only improve as we go, especially when ordering sugar/syrup-free. After lunch, we were ready to embark on the glacier boat cruise, but Mother Nature had other plans. The winds picked up to 60km, and the snow started to fall, so Plan B was put in play; we were to jump back on the bus for a scenic ride around the park for the afternoon. Fortunately, the bus was comfortable and warm, and we enjoyed the views and a few lookout points. With the rapidly changing weather, it was difficult to do much more—microclimates on steroids in Torres del Paine. We captured the scenery as best we could find from the bus, and Wayne would brave the strong winds, snow, and rain for the lookout spots; he is a gem! As darkness settled in, it was time to head back to the ship, as it was a few hours' drive. We sighted a few Guanacos on the way back, the native llamas, but unfortunately, no pumas. After a long day, we returned to the ship at about 8.30 pm to quickly dine and rest. The ship was port side overnight in Puerto Natales, so we looked forward to exploring the lovely town 'Wayne and Sal' style the following day and continuing our Pisco Sour tour. Fun facts: 30000 islands amongst the channels and fjords in the south of Chile, 11000 have no names The Andes go for 8000km from Venezuela to Cape Horn, under the water and resurface in Antarctica Chile is known as the Pacific Ring of Fire. It is one of the countries with the most volcanoes on Earth. It is estimated that there are almost 2000 volcanoes. About 500 volcanoes are active, 60 of which have recorded eruptions in the last 450 years. The largest earthquake, with a magnitude of 9.5, was in Southern Chile. In 1960, the most powerful earthquake recorded in history struck southern Chile. The rupture zone stretched from estimates ranging from 500 kilometres (311 miles) to almost 1,000 kilometres (621 miles) along the country's coast. Day 82 - Puerto Natales, Chile Today was one of those unplanned days that filled us with so much joy. First up, Wayne and I just walked off the ship with a coffee shop in mind, as it is named Nomad, which we just had to support because our dear friends from Belgrade also have a restaurant called Nomad. The coffee didn't disappoint; it was a lovely little cafe with warm energy and a local vibe. Now, we had coffee to kickstart the day; we strolled around the beautiful city centre of Puerto Natales. It is immaculate and well-designed; the town has a soul and is very inviting. Just before lunch, we found a cosy restaurant bar called Wild Hostel, with a very inviting wood-fired stove, a friendly resident dog and a sofa for us to chill and watch the world go by. The team was a delight; we were friends in minutes, and the owner was Finnish. (My mother is also Finnish). We were joined by Pat & Bob, who wanted to participate in the fun and soon after, Mary and Stephen. We enjoyed a few Pisco Sours and snacks while chatting about our lives. After three months of cruising together, we feel like family. Stephen took hold of the guitar nearby and entertained us with his hidden talents. He has been hiding them over the ship for the past few months. It was a beautiful afternoon; we enjoyed listening to the owner's life story. It was an inspiring adventure to bring him to where he is today, owning a beautiful hostel with his lovely wife and now based amongst the snow-capped mountains in Patagonia. After we finished up at Wild, we dropped into another beautiful restaurant called Vinnhaus to sample their cocktails. Another Finnish owner greeted us with a warm welcome from the team. You were transported back to the 1920s; the decor was fabulous, and we found a hidden little nook to start our way through the cocktails. I have never seen a cocktail list that I loved so much. Luckily, we had a curfew! The cocktails were impressive, and we enjoyed a few more hours onshore. We met the loveliest family from Chile, who were visiting from Santiago and chose this beautiful restaurant for their family dinner; meeting them all was a delight. We loved the atmosphere, ambience, cocktails, and staff, and we are trying our best to come back and stay for an extended period early next year; they also have a super cute hotel attached. Wayne & I will feel at home, and Puerto Natales is a perfect destination to enjoy on the tail end of Summer. Surprisingly, we made it back to the ship via a tender boat as the Nansen (our sister ship, which is identical to us, apart from a 1cm difference in length) had snuck in while we were ashore and took our place in port so we all had the night just off the dock and enjoyed a peaceful night's sleep before we embarked on the journey to Antarctica. Day 83 & 84 - At Sea, Chilean Fjords & Beagle Channel, Chile I spent both days at sea but with some magical highlights. We cruised through the White Narrows, an extremely narrow channel from Puerto Natales, to find our way through the Chilean Fjords. We all rushed to the Bow of the ship to witness the narrow passage; with a deep breath, we quickly squeezed through the tight path. The scenery throughout the day was majestic, from waterfalls to glaciers to mountainscapes. The Chilean Fjords and channels are breathtaking. We filled one afternoon with a birthday celebration. A fellow pole to poler Stephen was signing into his 73rd year, so we all enjoyed champagne, wine and tequila shots! It was a blast! The ship was also decorated for Halloween with a pumpkin smoothie treat for those brave enough. We also enjoyed our favourite pancake treat from Fredheim. Thank you, Chef! The last day of week 12 was spent navigating more majestic scenery as we departed the South of Chile and made our way through the Beagle Channel for clearance to Antarctica. Puerto Williams was where the ship made a quick stop for clearance and entered the Drake Passage, also known as the 'Drake Shake'. We were all warned it would be rough, so pop your pills and tuck everything away. We were cautious, followed the advice, and were surprised at how uneventful it was and that we slept through the night! Thank you, Mother Nature. Join us for the grand finale, 'week 13' next week; after three months, we finally experience the big white continent of Antarctica.