Hurtigruten Pole to Pole - Week 13
- Sal Schmidt
- Nov 7, 2022
- 11 min read
Updated: May 13
In the final week of our 13-week Pole to Pole cruise on the MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions, we will experience the great white wonder of the world and our seventh continent—Antarctica.
Day 85 - At Sea, Cape Horn & Drake Passage
We started the day with the news we had been waiting for for over 85 days: we won the lottery for kayaking in Antarctica and were in Group A, which provided us with the highest chance to get out on the water should the weather permit.
We were very fortunate, as most 400 passengers also had this activity. With only four landings scheduled, a maximum of two sessions per landing, and eight kayaks per session, you do the math.
Crossing the Drake Passage takes about two days. Over the past few months, we have heard so many horror stories from fellow passengers who have experienced the Drake Shake that we were very fortunate to be blessed with the Drake Lake for our crossing.
Yesterday, we were scheduled for a landing on Cape Horn. Unfortunately, the winds were too strong, resulting in a no-go, so we continued our path to the Antarctic Peninsula.
When we first set out on this cruise, we were unaware that the chances of landing on the mainland of Antarctica were meagre, as we had booked a Pole-to-Pole cruise.
As most are quick to let you know, our landings would be on the South Shetland Islands and the Antarctic Peninsula; claiming this is not Antarctica; therefore, you haven't visited Antarctica.
Although we suggest otherwise, as we have come this far, the peninsula is part of visiting Antarctica in our book; it is part of the mainland. It's a little like you have seen Tasmania, and then you find out you haven't been to Australia, or you have been to Koh Samui, but have you been to Thailand? Yes, of course!
Today was making the most of the ocean before the big arrival.
Day 86 - Half Moon Island, South Shetland Islands, Antarctica
Welcome to our final continent; all seven are now ticked off!
This continent has always been on our bucket list, and finally, our dream of setting foot on the icy continent of Antarctica has been fulfilled.
As the fog lifted this morning to present the majestic views, they were breathtaking, like nothing we have ever seen.
Blessed to be joined by the sun and blue skies, we cruised closer to the first land we had seen over the past few days. The pictures were priceless and a great taster of what was to come.
There is so much ice! The elevations were surprising; these mountains are enormous! We later learned Antarctica has the highest average height in the world.
Our kayaking adventure was postponed due to the stronger winds, so we layered up for the landing on Half Moon Island.
As we approached the island, we could see all the little penguins and spotted a few whales, so we were excited! Especially as it is usually too early in the season for whales.
The landing took us across to a place where we could get up close and personal with the penguins. There are two breeds: the main colony is made up of chinstraps, who come to breed (up to 15,000 eventually), and then the Gentoos, who come to hang out by the water.
They were adorable and clumsy as they went to the sea to feed, constantly tripping over their little feet; you could sit by and watch them all day. We humans didn't seem to bother them, so they continued getting on with their day.
It was cold, around zero, so thankfully, we layered up and enjoyed the hour on land. We were mesmerised by the natural wonder and adorable penguins surrounding us.
As we were leaving, we sat with the penguins, just enjoying being near these birds full of character; overlooking the following for a giggle, the one on the left.
We can't wait for the next few days to experience this majestic place on Earth.
Day 87 - Wilhelmina Bay, Antarctica
Today was fascinating; let's start in reverse! Heavy snow set in during dinner, and we scored a window table to ensure we could experience heavy snowfall while cruising. This was the first time we had been on a cruise and on the ocean with snow; it was pretty surreal and beautiful, especially in Antarctica.
It was heavy snow, and the snowflakes were the size of a cotton plant; it was what movies and picture books are made about. As dinner progressed, the deep blue ocean that engulfed us transitioned into a tinge of foggy grey; it was freezing over as the snow settled, and a thin layer of sea ice was beneath us.
Let's jump back to the morning. It was an early start as our Kayaking was scheduled; take two. We made sure to fill our bellies with some fuel, and during breakfast, the news came that it was cancelled. The weather was changing rapidly, and snow was gracing us with her presence. We did enjoy the morning show with the seals relaxing on the icebergs as we cruised by.
The ship quickly changed its navigation from our original destination, Orne Harbour, to a new location, Wilhelmina Bay, where we could bring out the zodiacs and all get a chance for a scenic cruise through the sea ice and flows and be within inches of the icebergs.
Before lunch, we explored the ship; seeing it covered in snowfall was a surreal experience.
After lunch, we geared up; as the snow settled in, we loved popping back to our room to measure the snowfall; it felt like a winter wonderland with snow filling your balcony and a little like Christmas. We love it.
Brendan was our host and Zodiac driver through the sea ice for one hour. He provided us with many insights on the icebergs and sea ice, and all about the nearby birdlife, as he expertly dodged and weaved through all the ice flows and icebergs with limited vision.
Being part of the sea as it began to ice up was also fascinating. It has the same texture as a slushy; the water on the surface becomes a light shade of grey and is mushy.
Great work, and thank you, Brendan, for keeping us safe.
After being woken up on the water and showered with snow, we returned to the ship to bring our body temperature back to normal, prepare for dinner, and wait for the boat to unveil our next destination as we explore Antarctica.
Unfortunately, the passengers who had booked the camping on the ice due to the weather were also cancelled.
Day 88 - Neko Harbour, Antarctica
Will we kayak in Antarctica? It is becoming a million-dollar question. It was another early morning for take 3 for us kayakers who were the fortunate ones in Group A (this means we were first to kayak before all other groups). It was 8.05 a.m., so it was time to pop into our cold suits; one leg in, the announcement popped up that it had been cancelled, and the wind was picking up. So close!
Fortunately, the zodiac was still on, and we happened to be in the first group of the day, so we dressed up for the cruising and went down to the expedition landing.
We were first on the boats and surprised it was a little warmer than yesterday. It was much more civilised with only light snow dust.
We navigated the sea ice and enormous icebergs for sealife; penguins were the day's target.
The icebergs glistened in the water as the sun peeked through the clouds. Just remember that the visible part of the iceberg is only 10-20% of the actual size, so most iceberg lives underwater. We could see the entire length with the water pristine, and it was just wow!
On the way back to the ship, we came across a sensational raft of gentoo penguins.
Forty-five minutes later, we were back on the ship. The weather was closing in, and the captain was concerned that the sea ice on the boat could ice us in the harbour, so it was time to pack up and move on.
We made our way to Danco Bay, and a 4-hour Kayaking trip was scheduled, fingers crossed. The ship changed direction again, and a new destination was on the map until the wind blessed us with her presence, reaching up to 90 knots at one point. So, the ship maintained its position to keep us all comfortable and to wait out Mother Nature.
Later in the evening, she cruised along Antarctica's majestic coastline, filling our senses with icy mountain peaks and wonders.
We sailed into Damoy Point, a rocky headland on the west coast of Wiencke Island, and were even more delighted by the size of the glaciers.
The ship decided to spend the evening in Antarctica because the weather conditions were good, and activities looked promising for tomorrow, our last day there.
Let's go Kayaking!
Today was spent enjoying the changing weather and genuinely appreciating its perils. I was fortunate to sneak in a 'patchy video' call to Mum and Dad to share my experience of the world's wonders.
Day 89 - Dorian Bay, Antarctica
The million-dollar question has been answered, and we have hit the 'Kayaking in Antarctica' jackpot! 🛶
This morning, we woke early to calm waters and weather. It was five, and we were optimistic it would happen!
With our cold suits and straight to the meeting point, there was no wasted time. The sooner we were on the water, the sooner it became a reality. Fourteen of our fellow kayakers were on the same page, and everyone was ready. We were given the finishing touches to our Kayaking outfit, a unique life jacket, and gloves to keep us dry and hopefully warm.
We piled into the zodiacs for a short five-minute cruise across to the waiting kayaks, and one by one, we were loaded into our kayak, two per kayak. Wayne was in the back, and I was seated up front as the head photographer. That's fine by me, as poor hubby would need to do all the paddling (which, after learning my rhythm, he much preferred to take control of).
Before we embarked on this magical experience through sea ice, we had a quick practice and 101 on manoeuvring the kayak and, of course, staying above the water.
This moment was one we had been waiting for. It has been nearly 90 days since we departed Vancouver, and we were hoping to kayak in the Arctic Circle; unfortunately, the weather continued to close the opportunities.
The paddling commenced, and it was surreal. We were all lined up, navigating on the water's surface through large chunks of sea ice; the paddles driving their way through the ice chunks were eerily sounding, but surreal and peaceful.
We arrived at the most magnificent turquoise iceberg to capture pictures up close and personal.
Unbeknownst to us, this same iceberg would calve and start tipping over a few hours later, which we were fortunate to witness from our balcony - play with sound.
We continued closer to Damoy Point, a research station home to a Gentoo penguin colony. The station was being prepared for the arrival of four female researchers to spend the summer in a few weeks, so we all floated amongst the sea ice and bergs to enjoy the serenity, overshadowed by dramatic icy mountain peaks, who would spend the summer there.
We watched the penguins go about their day, swimming and diving, waddling, and even swimming beneath our kayaks in the crystal waters beneath us. It was one of those magical moments that will remain with you forever.
After about 1.5 hours, we returned through the sea ice. We were all becoming familiar with paddling through (or, in my case, my darling hubby was); I was too busy trying to get my little fingers and toes to circulate again and keep the phone from going for a swim in below-zero waters.
We approached the ship and were to wait for our zodiacs to pick us up and take us back to our cosy cabins; they were running a little behind, so we took the opportunity to row around the ship. It was magnificent to experience this impressive vessel from the exterior and at the water level; it was surreal.
Once we reached the stern, we were shortly picked up and delivered back to the ship. Thank you to Molly and Orto from the Expedition team for a memorable kayaking experience in Antarctica; it was the perfect ending to our three months onboard.
The afternoon was spent enjoying a lazy lunch, reviewing the incredible photos we captured, and celebrating ticking off another bucket list experience.
Kudos to Hurtigruten Expeditions for being the first cruise ship to launch Kayaking in Antarctica this summer; we were the first group out on the water this season 👏
We were scheduled for a Zodiac landing later in the evening to walk through the snow and see another penguin colony, but we decided to opt out, as it was on the peninsula. We were all hoping it was on the mainland; therefore, we wanted to stay on our natural high from the morning; it was our perfect ending to Antarctica.
Dinner was spent back in Lindstrom chatting with our new Aussie friends and enjoying drinks as we entered the Drake Passage. We kept our fingers crossed that it would bless us with a crossing of the 'Drake Lake', not the 'Drake Shake'.
Day 90 - Drake Passage
The Lake is slowly becoming the Shake! Therefore, it has been a slow day. We enjoyed lunch and a bottle of wine; the afternoon was spent hiding away in the suite to stay horizontal! We find it much easier on the body; the motion sickness creeps in as soon as you wander around. Fortunately, it takes quite a rocky ship now to upset us, and we know how to avoid it!
Dinner was quick, and back to bed! One of those days! A little penguin love and kayaking highlights; I hope it gives you as much joy as it does me:-)
Day 91 - Drake Passage
This marks our last day at sea for three months. Fortunately, the Drake was easing up as we approached land around noon. We enjoyed our last day over a lazy lunch at Fredheim, thanking the team and preparing to pack our cases and disembark for the morning.
Before dinner, we enjoyed catching up with the Pole-to-Pole guests for the captain's farewell; drinks overflowed as everyone shared all the unused bottles of bubbles and shipboard credit, which you can't take with you.
This was followed by a fun evening with a group of lovely Aussies we met on this segment; the crew entertained us with laughter.
We were incredibly grateful to the lovely crew, who cared for us throughout the cruise; you all made our trip more delightful. Thank you, team; we will miss your friendly smiles and daily chats.
Beautiful moonlight glistened over the ocean as our next and final destination, Ushuaia, welcomed us.
Thank you for travelling with us as we embarked three months ago on our 'once-in-a-lifetime' cruise from North to South Pole; we hope you enjoyed our travel moments as much as we enjoyed visiting parts of the world on our bucket list.
Join us as we experience our next adventure, the 'Argentina Chapter', a month-long exploration of a new part of the world.
Why do you think the Antarctic peninsular is not part of the continent? The peninsular itself is part of the Antartic landmass with no breaks.
Wow! Great review. I am condisering the same expedition and was wondering if you might share your packing list?
Awsome trip. Been a long trek and am glad I got to share some of the highlights. Cheers. Loraine Dickson. Vancouver, BC
ABSOLUTELY brilliant from start to finish. Have SO ENJOYED being on this trip with you all be it virtually from Halifax. REALLY looking forward to seeing your next trip adventure. With love Pocket Rocket and the Mountain Goat
PS how did you both stay so slim!!!!