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- Cruising the Chilean Fjords
Laguna San Rafael | Puerto Chacabuco | Puerto Montt | Punta Arenas Welcome back to the Chilean Fjords; it has only been a few months since we last sailed through this untouched and raw, majestic part of the world. Feeling blessed, we sail through these peaceful and tranquil fjords another two times with Oceania Cruises on our 110-day voyage around South America throughout the cruise. Cruising the Chilean Fjords The scenery has changed as summer has rolled on through and melted the snow from the peaks, and it is now an abundance of lush green hues. There are 30000 islands amongst the channels and fjords in the south, with 11000 of them unnamed. The first evening, we were spoiled cruising the Beagle Channel and caught glimpses of glaciers and waterfalls; it was a great reminder of what was in store for us over the next few days as we cruised and navigated the channels and fjords of Chile. Cruising the Chilean Fjords The following day, we woke in the depths of the breathtaking Chilean Fjords and channels. The day started with a moody shadow over the majestic scenery, followed by the sun peeking through to shine on the magnificent Patagonian scenery. Cruising the Chilean Fjords Cruising the Chilean Fjords We thoroughly enjoyed the pace of cruising through the fjords, our morning coffees with a view, and meals throughout the day, blessed with outstanding nature engulfing us. Cruising the Chilean Fjords Cruising the Chilean Fjords Cruising the Chilean Fjords It was a day full of smiles and being spoiled on Oceania. We were delighted when we found Chef Andrea preparing fresh pasta for lunch, and as the sun settled for the day, we were blessed with a sky full of colour. Puerto Chacabuca, Chile This morning, we arrived at Puerto Chacabuca super early at 7 a.m., but we couldn't wait to open the curtains to soak up the morning sun. The ship had been busy navigating the narrow channels of the fjords while we were all sleeping. Upon opening the blinds, it was mesmerising. We were tucked into a tiny pocket of the fjords surrounded by snow-capped peaks and delicious greenery, covered with a sheet of majestic silver clouds; we couldn't wait to capture a few morning snaps. It was the beginning of a beautiful day. We were up and enjoying our morning coffee outside on the upper deck lounges, basking in our majestic surroundings. Once all the passengers had embarked on their excursions and the tenders were less crowded, we popped on and crossed to the nearby village. A quaint fishing village located deep within the Chilean Fjords, with an intimate population of 500 people, all living a very remote and relaxing life amongst the fjords, we strolled around, taking in the local life and enjoying getting some steps in with fresh mountain air. We were blessed with a glorious day of sunshine (possibly too much for Sal and Wayne after we realised we had been kissed a little too much by such sun later in the day). We couldn't leave without visiting the local general store; it was always fun perusing the shelves and checking out the local display of wines and spirits, which, of course, we left with a bag full of goodies for the crew and ourselves. We arrived back on the ship just in time for a relaxing lunch at the Terrace cafe on the outside deck. We had front-row seats to the fjords, which was remarkable! Cruising the Chilean Fjords The ship departed mid-afternoon, and we were all in for a treat of the most spectacular scenic cruising as we navigated through the channels and fjords. Feeling like we could reach over and touch them, we were in awe of their beauty. We recently cruised through the Chilean Fjords and were very surprised that a ship this size could create such an intimate feeling and opportunity to fully appreciate the fjords over and above the experience from an expedition cruise; thank you, Oceania, for gifting us with this incredible travel moment. Cruising the Chilean Fjords During dinner time in Polo Grill, we were ever so spoilt with a window table as we continued the scenic cruise through the islands scattered in the channels with a stunning backdrop of the dusty pink hues of a sunset sky. Not only did we have the majestic scenery, but an abundance of marine life followed us through as we dined throughout the evening; it was a constant check that out, Wayne; what is it? Next time, we will be sure to have our extra set of eyes and invite our binoculars to join us for dinner! We believe they were seals, flying fish, and possibly penguins… but we are still in debate! Upon returning to our room, the day bid us farewell as the nearly full moonlight sparkled over the ocean waters; it was a perfect day experiencing the Chilean Fjords! Cruising the Chilean Fjords The Chilean Fjords take a few days to navigate as you cruise to your next destination; it's the perfect time to relax and enjoy your surroundings and the magnificent scenery. Oceania keeps you entertained, well-nourished, and hydrated during these sea days, and we love catching up with our friends and enjoying the surprises each day. You have high tea during the afternoons, long lunches in the Grand Dining Room, specialty dining each evening, and the most fun of all, the Oceania Club members' parties! Punta Arenas, Chile After a week of sensory overload cruising the Chilean coast and navigating the channels and fjords, we arrived in Punta Arenas. It has been interesting to experience the scenery due to the rapidly changing weather throughout the week. You feel Summer fast escaping us as we continue south. Punta Arenas is a city of 125,000 people near the tip of Chile's southernmost Patagonia region. Located on the Strait of Magellan, which connects the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, it's often used as a base for the surrounding wilderness and Antarctica. The Plaza Muñoz Gamero has a memorial to explorer Ferdinand Magellan, and legend has it that if you rub his toe, you will return to the city. Alternatively, you can book a back-to-back cruise with Oceania and visit Punta Arenas thrice. We took the opportunity to explore the city as we skipped the last stop due to visa delays; as we were docked close to the town, it was easy to wander off. The first stop was coffee, and we were super impressed with this little gem we found, Guana Coffee ; it was a tiny little cafe and didn't disappoint. With coffee in hand, we continued strolling the city, getting some steps in. We observed the cleanliness of this city, which was a pleasant surprise after visiting other destinations in Chile, so kudos to Punta Arenas for not forgetting too much about your Pachamama (Mother Earth). We soon found ourselves on the city's edges in the backstreets, so we set our sights on the coastline and headed in that direction. This led us to enjoy the beach esplanade walk back to the ship, capturing iconic pictures for our memory bank. We enjoyed the vibrant street art and murals decorating the city as we walked. The mural along the waterfront was magnificent, paying tribute to the city's maritime history on buildings. Thank you, Chilean Fjords, for delivering another memorable and magical experience. Cruising the Chilean Fjords Our next adventure is coming soon as we continue our 110-day journey with Oceania Cruises , the circumnavigation of South America.
- Visiting the Falkland Islands
Stanley, Falkland Islands Welcome to the Falkland Islands, which now sits in our top ten destinations. We have only just realised it is not the easiest to visit. Of the three attempts we had with Oceania Cruises on our 110-day voyage around South America, only once was the weather kind enough to enable us to go ashore. Visiting the Falkland Islands The Falkland Islands are a British overseas territory full of charm and captivating surprises. Let's start with the sheep and penguins outnumbering humans, believed to be half a million sheep and 1 million penguins! We also think we have found a contender for the world's most pristine white sand: move on to White Haven Beach. As mentioned above, we were due to visit Stanley earlier on the cruise as we returned to Antarctica on the ship. However, the tenders could not safely transport us to Stanley due to high winds, so the ship re-navigated for the Drake Passage. This time, the weather was on our side as we sailed northbound from Antarctica, with the smoothest crossing of the Drake passage; passengers were even a little disappointed they missed out on the rock and roll of the Drake Shake. Wayne and I. On our way to Stanley, the first stop was to source some Wi-Fi, as Chile required another Visa. Our recent one had already expired. They neglected to read our other details about returning to the ship and looking to generate more income from Aussies. Our nationality needs a visa!! After bobbing up and down the short, windy passage across to Stanley in the tender, we arrived in the Capital. We found a cosy boutique hotel called The Waterfront Boutique Hotel , where we could access wwifi, submit our application again, and enjoy a delicious British breakfast. The connection was via satellite, so you could purchase a voucher for £5, which gave you 200MB, so after 20 minutes, you were back buying another voucher. Ensure your photos are not syncing, which will instantly swallow up the data. After about one hour, we successfully submitted the application, and it is back in the hands of Chile to approve - fingers are crossed they are speedy, and in two weeks, when we return, we will have our green light for Chile. Now it was time to explore this charming little town. It's rich in history and wildlife; it's the second-largest and most accessible colony of king penguins in the world. The Falklands have about 3000 residents, of whom nearly 400 live on the British military base on East Falkland. Argentina also claimed the islands as the Islas Malvinas and was the site of a significant conflict between the two countries in 1982. Sadly, there were 1000 lives tragically lost during this battle between Argentina and Britain. The Falkland Islands are located 650 km off the southeast coast of South America and consist of nearly 740 islands. The largest islands are called East Falkland and West Falkland, with the Capital Stanley located on the former. The total land mass of the Falkland Islands is approximately half the size of Wales. The landscape comprises mountain ranges, flat plains, rugged coastline, sandy white beaches (rivalling the best in the world) and cliffs. Visiting the Falkland Islands After seven days of not venturing on land, it was time to get the body moving, so we spent the next few hours strolling the waterside and back streets, capturing the moments of this historical place. We loved being back amongst the British influence and seizing some candid moments. Once we found our way back to the waterside where the ship was tendering, it was time to source a local gin, as they do have a gin distillery; unfortunately, it was not yet open. As we were considering our next plan of attack, our lovely friends Judy and Pete spotted us and invited us to visit the penguins. They had found a private driver (Mark Stroud 0050055100, sue.mark@horizon.co.fk ) who could guarantee penguin sightings in a hidden cove called Yorke Bay, a bay difficult for the larger tour groups to access via a bus. Visiting the Falkland Islands After a short scenic drive of 20 minutes, during which we enjoyed the panoramic view of the islands, including a stop in Whalebone Cove to capture the shipwreck of Lady Liz and tackle the dunes, we arrived in Baythe. After a short walk, and as the horizon appeared, we were spellbound by the penguins all hanging out by the beach. Beneath them was the whitest, finest, pristinest sweater we have ever seen. We were in the company of Gentoo, Magellanic, and even two King Penguins; what a treat. Visiting the Falkland Islands We were all exploding with joy and shed a few tears of delight. How precious it was to be so close and personal with this colony of penguins, where we could observe quietly. We, of course, respected their home and kept our distance. Recently, they have needed to place boundary flags due to Chinese tourists feeling it was okay to encroach on them and disrupt their homes!! Only recently have they also cleared the area of mines, which is now safe to visit. Visiting the Falkland Islands We soaked up the atmosphere and enjoyed watching the penguins waddle, feed, rest, and play. They have quirky little personalities and are fun to watch, but pointlessly overloaded. At one stage, we all looked up, and we were dolphins on the water's edge, leaping out of the crystal blue waters. Magical! Visiting the Falkland Islands It's a perfect day in the Falklands; it doesn't get much better. Although we were blessed with a stunning sunset this evening with a surprise delivery of the most delicious chocolate-dipped strawberries, a heartfelt thank you to our dear Ismail:-) Our next adventure is 'Chile'. Join us as we revisit the Chilean Fjords and continue our 110-day journey with Oceania Cruises , the circumnavigation of South America.
- A little taste of Uruguay
Punta del Este | Montevideo We arrived in Uruguay with Oceania Cruises in late January. Over the next few months, the itinerary will include several visits to Punta del Este and Montevideo . Punta del Este, Uruguay Welcome to Punta del Este in Uruguay, between Brazil and Argentina. Uruguay is country No.64 for us! Punta del Este is a chic fishing village and the St Moritz of Uruguay; as you arrive, you are surrounded by superyachts (and sea lions and seals), a beautiful marina, and streets filled with restaurants and bars where you can soak up the lovely atmosphere. As soon as we walked off the tender boat, we were greeted by these gigantic sea lions chilling out and relaxing on the pier; we were all filled with joy! After three months on an expedition cruise, we never saw such marine life so close. Here, we wander off the tender on a cruise ship with over 1000 people and are meters away! It's magical. Once the excitement of watching the sea lions, we wandered the port to the fish market and were gifted with another seal show, all the fishermen feeding the seals the fish guts and even giving the onlookers a go; it was fascinating! A little taste of Uruguay We followed this with a stroll up the street to find a fabulous spot for lunch, Zuzu Puerto , which we soon found. We needed to quench our thirst, hide from the sun and high humidity, and relax, and we found the perfect restaurant. The staff was full of positive energy, the food was exceptional, and they had Pisco Sours, so we were happy. After a long lunch, we strolled back to the ship (as we will be back in Punta del Este a few more times next month) to explore more. Walking back, we were presented with another beautiful surprise: a lovely, lazy, big sea lion soaking up the sun, the same one we had escaped from earlier. We propped ourselves nearby and enjoyed being close and personal while keeping our distance to avoid disrupting him. We enjoyed watching this incredible sea lion chill out; he (or she) always had one eye open to watch all the onlookers. Uruguay, you are already impressive, and we can't wait to explore more of you. A little taste of Uruguay We returned to Punta del Este several times during February and March and loved each visit's welcoming party. We couldn't get enough of the cuteness of the sea lions in their natural habitat and of being so close to them. A little taste of Uruguay We also stumbled on a lovely cafe called La Rebelion . The gorgeous team gave us the warmest of welcomes, and the menu featured a great selection of fresh organic food, delicious empanadas, and coffee. We loved the cosy and relaxing atmosphere and energy, along with the beautiful views over the marina; we dropped in on future port days in Punta del Este to say hello and be nourished with goodness. Montevideo, Uruguay It is a coastal city of beautiful architecture, colourful historic buildings, some derelict, some a renovator's delight, and others already transformed to a stately home, pedestrian and cobblestoned walks, green parks and squares, whilst being enveloped by the ocean waters on either side of the city. Montevideo, the capital of Uruguay, is a city full of energy and life; as you leave the port, you can immerse yourself in the local food market, which is a gorgeous old warehouse now home to many restaurants serving the local meat, in every which way accompanied by wine from Uruguay, a new little fun fact: Uruguay makes wine! We look forward to exploring the wineries over our next two stops and sampling the delicious meats; we have heard rumours that it is even better than Argentina! Oceania Cruises In the charming old city, you have an abundance of eclectic cafes and bars lining the vibrant sidewalks, decorated with street art to guide you. During this visit, we explored the city on foot. We enjoyed the city's spirit by savouring an Aperol Spritz on the edge of the unique food market, wishing we had more time to sample the delicious BBQ meat we smelled as we walked on by. Here is a little history lesson: At first, Montevideo was simply a tiny Spanish military fort built in 1714 to counter Portugal's expansion of Brazil. However, settlers were not enticed; the Spanish governor in Buenos Aires, Don Mauricio Zabala, offered cattle and land to the first groups that would come and lay the foundations of a town. Among the earliest to arrive were families from the Canary Islands, who sailed into the small bay and came ashore in 1726. Over the following decades, Montevideo slowly became an important trade port between the "Old and New World." By the late 1700s, it had developed into one of South America's most essential and profitable ports. Oceania Cruises Montevideo is a popular cruise ship destination; we loved watching Costa depart and breathe in as they expertly manoeuvred the ship from the port. Oceania Cruises One evening in February, we left Montevideo to farewell some of our dear friends and crew. Still, we were grateful to celebrate over more fantastic food and wine in Privee, followed by drinks with more of our beloved fellow guests. New friendships are formed, and one of the best parts of travel is the beautiful humans you meet; we are always busy planning when our paths cross again. During one port day in Montevideo, we needed to visit a GP quickly for a prescription. We researched Hospital Britanico with English-speaking doctors. It is also known as The British Hospital, which has been in the Old City since 1857 and is known as The Foreign Hospital in Uruguay. We arrived by Uber and were greeted warmly upon entering. All the staff were very helpful in leading us to the correct health department. We were impressed with the care, expertise, and modern facilities. We could book an appointment with only one hour to wait, which we enjoyed over lunch in the beautiful cafe for visitors; surprisingly, there was table service and a full menu to order freshly cooked meals. The GP was excellent and efficient, the modern and stylish facilities and furnishings were world-class, and the cost to visit the GP was less than 100 USD for a foreigner. The hospital also features a museum of historic medical tools and equipment displayed throughout the hospital halls, reminding us how far the medical industry has evolved. Our next adventure is ' The Falklands '. Join us as we attempt to go ashore to a new and challenging destination as we continue our 110-day journey with Oceania Cruises , the circumnavigation of South America.
- Cruising North Brazil
Recife | Maceio | Salvador After spending a week on the Amazon River in Brazil , enjoying Christmas and New Year's Eve aboard the Marina with Oceania Cruises, we continue exploring the Northern coast of Brazil. Recife, Brazil After two days navigating out of the Amazon River and two days sailing the Atlantic, including crossing the equator again (this time, we could skip the ritual as we were no longer equator virgins), we arrived at our first port of call, Recife. Recife is pronounced ('heh-see-fee'), a coastal city and the capital of Pernambuco, the Northeast State of Brazil. Recife is closer to Africa's west coast than the farthest western border of Brazil, just 8°3' south of the equator. After letting the passengers disembark throughout the morning, we strolled off around noon. We had the option to take a shuttle to the city of Recife, but after experiencing the high humidity, we opted for an Uber to the nearby, charming and far more tranquil historic town of Olinda, which lies on Recife's northern edge, just 6km from the city centre. We googled our way to an Asian restaurant, 'Oishi', with very positive reviews by the beach, which deserved the 4.3 ratings. We filled our bellies with a giant spring roll, the largest we have ever seen, followed by vegetable tempura and shared a dish of Chop Suey for two; upon arrival, we were guessing we ordered for four! We did our best and admitted defeat, but it was delicious and had excellent value at AUD 40, with a couple of cocktails. After lunch, we strolled the beach, watching the local life and enjoying the holidays. We came across a brand-new shopping mall, so it was great to cool off and purchase our essentials! We might have missed out on seeing more of Recife, but we did enjoy the architecture and colourful homes as we drove by. We had a delightful day and loved supporting the local businesses and navigating a new language; thankfully, Google Translate helped us with our Portuguese. Maceio, Brazil Welcome to Maceio. It feels like a city surrounded by beaches, where you will find local tourists enjoying their vacations. Think Pattaya in Thailand. You have a long stretch of coast on the main road full of beach activities, beach beds, umbrellas, and beach clubs. Cruising North Brazil It was buzzing with locals and families enjoying the hot and humid sun by the water; by 10 a.m., everyone had a drink in hand, and while sunbaking, you could buy everything from drinks to food, clothing, and beach accessories. We stopped by a beach club for a morning coffee; we could only enter if we paid the all-day entrance fee of about $13 each, so we did this to watch the world go by for an hour or so! After our chill-out, we walked a little and returned to the ship for lunch to escape the heat! Maceio was a much wealthier city, with safer and excellent infrastructure and a great nightlife based on the vibe. Maceió is the capital of the state of Alagoas, on the east coast of Brazil. An offshore reef protects the city, and the shore is lined with white-sand beaches, palm trees, and many beautiful and tranquil beaches within a half-hour drive. Salvador, Bahia, Brazil You know how much you love a city based on the number of pics you need to clean up, and Salvador was a favourite for Wayne and me. Cruising North Brazil We researched Salvador the evening prior, and we were filled with excitement. It was the former capital of Brazil for two centuries before relinquishing to Rio in 1763 (then Brasilia); it is a vibrant, richly architectural colonial city. A blend of Portuguese and African heritage blends seamlessly. Salvador is on Brazil's South Atlantic coast in the idyllic state of Bahia. It is home to some of northeastern Brazil's most beautiful beaches, over 1000 km of coconut-fringed beaches, and a popular culinary hub. With the largest population of Afro-Brazilians and a complex mishmash of African, Indigenous, and European influences, Salvador has earned the local nickname "the Black Rome." Cruising North Brazil After disembarking, we set our sights on the historic centre of Pelourinho, full of cobblestoned alleys, beautiful colourful architecture, and churches. We enjoyed strolling around and soaking up the energy, local cuisines and the African influence. It was bustling with tourists, a few ships were in, and quite a police presence to make everyone feel more secure. After the sweltering humidity got the better of us, we made our way to the restaurant we had planned for a slow lunch. After being caught in the rain (it is the wet season), we walked in looking quite the treat to the restaurant. Fortunately, the drowned rat appearance was approved, and we were seated, quickly freshening up in the restrooms to feel more presentable. We decided on an Italian restaurant in the Fasano Hotel, a beautiful luxury hotel brand in Brazil, originating from an Italian family. The hotel was on the top of the street overlooking the splendid water's edge in a century-old colonial building. The decor was also plantation-style, with relaxed and comfortable furniture surrounded by beautiful wooden hues. We settled in for a culinary journey. The menu looked so delicious that we opted for the five-course degustation of meat-based pasta dishes, accompanied by a lovely bottle of red and a few cocktails pre- and post-dinner, which were a pleasant surprise! It was the perfect introduction to Salvador and a place on our list to return and spend more quality time. An abundance of dining options and cocktail bars are spoiled with magical views around the city of four million, and we haven't even scratched the surface. Pop Salvador on your list; we can't wait to unwrap this gem of a city in Brazil. Cruising North Brazil Join us for our next 'Brazil' chapter as we continue cruising southerly the Brazilian border with Oceania Cruises on our 110-day voyage around South America.
- Cruising South Brazil
Rio de Janeiro | Buzios | Ilha Grande | Santos | Itajai The first few weeks of 2023 were about exploring the Southern Brazilian coast and finally setting foot in Rio aboard the Marina with Oceania Cruises. Highlights were celebrating my 45th Birthday with a beautiful group of humans whom we now call dear friends from Oceania, reacquainted with old friends from Rio, and new friends from Santos. Cruising South Brazil Rio, Brazil Rio needs no introduction; we all have heard about the famous Copacabana Beach and the Christ of Redeemer perched up on a hill overlooking the city and Sugarloaf Mountain. Rio is a highly populated and cosmopolitan city fringed with white sandy beaches, surrounded by rich green jungle and mountains; it truly is unique. Rio has been on our list for as long as we can remember, and we have been trying over the past ten years to visit our friends we met 12 years ago in Melbourne. It was never the best time to visit; finally, with the newly elected president, it was looking brighter (unfortunately, as we were leaving, it was disheartening to hear about the protests). We are praying it settles down, and life will progress in a more friendly way for all Brazilians. We arrived at lunchtime in Rio; it was a lovely sail-in as we cruised by Sugarloaf Mountain and docked in the city's heart. The weather was not on our side, but we had plans to see our friends. Cruising South Brazil The rain was a perfect excuse to settle in for a slow lunch at Cococabana Palace , an iconic hotel on the beach - Thank you, Aluizio, for working your magic with free-flowing Caprinhas and live Samba music as we spent the afternoon catching up with our dear friends, it felt like only yesterday we all met back in Melbourne 12 years ago. It was a lunch full of moments; we laughed, sang, danced, and met new friends, accompanied by local cocktails and food. We also provided everyone with some quality entertainment (let's be honest - comedy) whilst being invited to dance! Cruising South Brazil Cruising South Brazil As the evening approached, we decided to see a little more of Rio, so we toured the famous coastline and took the gondola at dusk to rise over the city to visit Sugarloaf Mountain. Cruising South Brazil Cruising South Brazil The city lights were all popping up, and the rain was settling, so the skies were clearing to show us this fabulous city. Cruising South Brazil We enjoyed a few hours taking in the views and enjoying the atmosphere; the first tourist attraction we had seen where the young ones go up to party the night away; there were pop-up bars, clubs, even a beer and tattoo parlour (it was busy), it was quite the buzz. We bid our beautiful friends farewell and felt grateful to have spent the day together creating more memories. Thank you, Aluizio and Fernando; we promise to return in a few years and not leave it another 12! Cruising South Brazil Buzios, Brazil Today is a celebration; it is my 45th Birthday. Happy Birthday to me! We love celebrating in a new destination each year, and this year, we were in Buzios, which was perfect! Cruising South Brazil Buzios is the St Tropez of Brazil, a charming little town full of beach resorts with an island vibe. It was the perfect place to celebrate, as the fine restaurants along the seaside spoiled us. Buzios was also put on the map as it was Brigette Bardot's favourite spot! Cruising South Brazil Our first task was tidying up; we needed a fresh haircut, and we were fortunate to find a cute little salon on the back street where we had some fun conversing. Still, the energy was so positive that we all kept laughing at each other as we could understand one way or another! The next stop was to find a place for cocktails and lunch; we couldn't pass up this popular restaurant, Canto Resto, on the beach, and again, we were super impressed. The cocktails were perfection, the food was divine, and we even had a Moroccan Tajine, our fave! Buzios is a place for people who appreciate good food, so as lovers of food, we knew we would feel at home with French, Italian, Moroccan, Thai, and other restaurants to please the most demanding tastes. The vast number of foreigners who came for a weekend but ended up staying is the reason for the diversity, having brought the secrets and spices from their countries. The service was super friendly and kind. We needed some help translating our local phone app to top up our internet, and our young waiter, Juan, was so helpful that he even popped the recharge on his debit card, and we paid him back in cash! Thank you, Juan! Following lunch, we found a lovely boutique and purchased some pieces to ensure we blend in on the ship and always look presentable! It was a perfect day in Buzios, another place on the list to return to; there were too many places to try and sample in one day! We would love to spend at least a week in this popular holiday gem! Cruising South Brazil Birthday dinner was next, and we were honoured to receive an invitation from the ship's GM, accompanied by the Loyalty Ambassadors and the executive concierge in Privee, a private dining room seating only ten people on the ship. Cruising South Brazil The dinner was an absolute delight. We all enjoyed the most enjoyable evening: delicious food, wine, and company. It was the perfect birthday celebration; I felt very spoiled by the incredible team and the magnificent birthday cake! We made new friendships and lots of laughter as we shared our stories and travel moments; we look forward to spending three months with everyone! I feel incredibly grateful to be surrounded by the kindest humans and beautiful souls; thank you, Evan, Holly, Alex, Elizeu (and hubby, of course), and the delightful Oceania team, for making my Birthday one to remember and filling our hearts with joy! Day 24 - Ilha Grande, Brazil Ilha Grande is an island off the coast of Rio de Janeiro state, Brazil. It remains largely undeveloped. For almost a century, the Brazilian government closed it to free movement or settlement because it first housed a leper colony and then a top-security prison. Candido Mendes' high-security prison housed some of the most dangerous prisoners within the Brazilian penal system. It was closed in 1994. The largest village on the island is called Vila do Abraão, with approximately 1900 inhabitants. Cruising South Brazil It is a very picturesque fishing village surrounded by beautiful green hills. Except for Abraão's lone garbage truck, fire engine, and police vehicle, cars are prohibited in town, so the only transportation is by foot or boat. Cruising South Brazil We popped on a tender around lunch to explore the island; it was busy with tourists but very charming. The beachfront was full of restaurants and bars, but once you popped off a street, there were cute boutiques and casual restaurants as you walked the dirt tracks. We continued further to catch a glimpse of local life and capture the personality and colours of the local village. Once we had explored, it was time to settle in for some local codfish balls and a few Caipirinha cocktails—they were the best yet! A beautiful perspective as we strolled back to the tender overlooking this charming village before tendering back to the ship for sail-away. Cruising South Brazil Oceania Cruises Santos, Brazil Today was one of those special days. It was filled with laughter, joy, happiness, new friendships, excellent food and wine. It all started with a dear friend from Melbourne letting us know her cousins live in Santos, and they would love to meet us and show us their home through their eyes. We said absolutely! The lovely Andre and Ana picked us up from the port, and we were instant friends. Santos is only half an hour from São Paulo, home to 17 million people and spanning over 3,000 square miles; São Paulo is the third-largest city in the world. The warm climate and red clay soil surrounding the town are perfect for growing coffee. With the arrival of the railway in 1867, large-scale cultivation took hold. Today, São Paulo is one of the largest coffee exporters in the world. As the coffee industry grew, so did the need for labour. São Paulo was one of the first cities in Brazil to encourage immigration actively. It has evolved into an exciting melting pot of cultures. São Paulo is the commercial heart of Brazil. They had planned to take a ferry across to a beautiful beach, and we could enjoy a lazy lunch, but the universe had other plans; with the traffic queue for the ferry, we decided to make the most of the time we had ashore, so our hands were straight up when they suggested a Churrascaria, a traditional Brazilian restaurant, most will recall the 'go/stop' coasters if they have been to one outside of Brazil, and you can eat and sample as much meat as possible. The roving servers deliver barbecued meats from large skewers directly onto your plate. We had this on our list so that we couldn't wait! We had a blast getting to know each other and felt incredibly grateful to Linda Rise for bringing us together. Once our bellies were full of delicious meats, we were back in the car for a quick drive through the favela and up to a hidden lookout spot over the city, where you can also paraglide. However, after hearing a few stories from Andre, it's best to skip this activity, but the views were sensational over Santos. Following our lookout, we decided to spend our last hour on the beach, soaking up the local life and enjoying a local Caipirinha; you can buy everything on the beach and even pay by card! It was time to head back to the ship. We made plans to catch up again with our new friends in Miami in a few months, as we would both be there at the same time, so we bid farewell and sailed away. It was a perfect day in Santos that filled our hearts with joy. It's always about the experiences and moments; this part of travel remains with you forever. Itajai, Brazil Our last day in Brazil was spent in Itajai. The City has many beautiful beaches where visitors can sun, swim, and enjoy the good life. Peaceful rural settings with natural landscapes and a rich heritage from Portuguese and German immigrants surround it. Cruising South Brazil We chose to spend our last destination in Brazil at a beach club called Pargus in the chic area of Praia Brava; we jumped on Google and found a beautiful beach club. Uber dropped us off, and we arrived to be presented with an entry bracelet. We settled in to sample the cocktails and Greek cuisine while listening to the resident DJ. We received a very warm welcome and enjoyed the afternoon just chilling and taking in the atmosphere; it was a fun place and a destination we could return to (most are). Farewell to Brazil; you have definitely shown us your best and beauty, and we can't wait to be back to explore you more, but for now, we must continue our adventures, and Uruguay is next on the itinerary with Oceania Cruises on our 110-day voyage around South America. Our next adventure is 'Uruguay' as we continue the circumnavigation of South America with Oceania Cruises on our 110-day voyage .
- Christmas on the Amazon - Brazil
Santarem | Parintins | Manaus After four days at sea from the Caribbean on our 110-day cruise from Miami, we arrive on the Amazon River in Brazil to spend Christmas and bring 2023, the new year aboard the beautiful Marina with Oceania Cruises. Christmas on the Amazon - Brazil Santarém, Brazil Yesterday was Christmas Day, and we sailed into the Amazon River. We spent the day in awe of the river's vastness and colour change as we celebrated Christmas in a new country. We all woke with a little jolt as the ship ran aground, but we were back on our way after a few hours. Christmas on the Amazon - Brazil The Amazon travels through four countries at 4,345 miles in length and holds more water than any other; the Amazon River has no equal significance to the global ecosystem. It is one of the world's longest, feeding and nurturing the equally remarkable rainforest surrounding it. The enormous rainforest covers over 2 million square miles and is credited with harbouring roughly one-third of all species of living creatures. As we cruised further into the Amazon, our first destination was Santarém, where the rivers meet. Two rivers surround Santarém: the Amazon, with its muddy water, and the Tapajós, with its clear and green water. Together, they form a unique meeting of different waters that do not mix for several kilometres; it was pretty surreal. The "Meeting of Waters" phenomenon occurs due to temperature, speed, and water density differences. Christmas on the Amazon - Brazil We were booked on an afternoon boat cruise excursion today. We wanted to see more of the Amazon and get up close and personal, so we skipped the city. We were all aboard, about 20 of us making our way through the meeting of the waters, watching the local life on the water pass us by. It was interesting to see how the locals transit between towns; their seats are hammocks on boats, and it can take up to a few days to arrive. There were fuel stations out on the river for all the boat life and, surprisingly, dolphins in freshwater, pink and blue; we were lucky to catch a few glimpses as we navigated the rivers. Christmas on the Amazon - Brazil About one hour in, we arrived at a narrow part and enjoyed the change of pace as we navigated slowly, taking in the peacefulness and new landscapes of the Amazon and pinching ourselves. We were in the Amazon, another Bucket list! Christmas on the Amazon - Brazil Christmas on the Amazon - Brazil Our captain found a shady spot on the river's edge, and it was time for us to test our skills for Piranha fishing. It has been a while since I have been fishing or yabbying, so this would be interesting! They were kind enough to have the wooden reel tackled up for us, which would help avoid any accidents! Over the lines went, and we all spent an hour trying to catch a little one. Only two were seen amongst us all (Wayne & I were unsuccessful), and they were tiny little ones returning to their natural habitat. Christmas on the Amazon - Brazil After our fishing experience, we were to head back up the river. Again, we ran aground, and our crew was immersed in piranha waters to push us out. It was an eventful afternoon. Christmas on the Amazon - Brazil As we returned during the golden hour, we were blessed with more sightings of dolphins, including the majestic pink dolphins—a first! Unfortunately, capturing them is difficult, but the memories will remain with us. Christmas on the Amazon - Brazil Christmas on the Amazon - Brazil After a long and hot afternoon, we were ready to freshen up and enjoy cocktails before dinner. Christmas on the Amazon - Brazil Day ten - Parintins, Brazil Wayne and I love capturing a city's personality, and today, in Parintins, we did just this. After arriving by tender boat at the pier, we turned left, while everyone else turned right to get lost and unwrap the layers of the city street by street. As we followed the paths, we discovered vibrant street art on the homes, shopfronts, and streets. Parintins is home to an unusual number of artists, artisans, musicians, and poets who produce the festival. You will find such a concentration of talent in no other city on the Amazon. The architecture of the homes and churches was unique, and the local life surrounded us. Everyone was an absolute joy, and we smiled and waved as we walked by. I realised we needed to learn a few phrases in Portuguese as this is now the local language. The day after Christmas, the city was operating as a public holiday, so it was quiet, and only a few stores were open. After a few hours, we found our way back to the ship and spotted a few local young lads fishing by the water's edge with a net and a bag to collect them. They gave us all a show and launched the net by the boats, and we watched them in awe as they pulled out a selection of fish for their bag! Christmas on the Amazon - Brazil Fun fact: In Parintins, everything revolves around the ox, the 'Boi Bumba'. An ancient fairy tale from the Amazon tells the story of the pregnant Catirina who suddenly desires to eat beef tongue. Her husband, Francisco, kills his master's best ox and is imprisoned for the crime. After a lengthy imprisonment, Francisco is finally freed because Paje, a medicine man and witch, brings the ox back to life. There is an 86-year-old rivalry between the two Boi groups; the Garantido club uses red, and the Caprichoso club uses blue. This friendly and creative rivalry between the two Bois (oxen) is contagious and has divided northern Brazil into two camps. The houses of Parintins are all painted red or blue. The public telephones, the tickets, the clothes, everything is either red or blue. Even the event's main sponsor, Coca-Cola, had to invent a new logo for Parintins. People refer to the rival club simply as the "others". Manaus, Brazil Welcome to Manaus, the heart of Amazonia, 900 miles inland on the Rio Negro from the Atlantic and home to the famed Amazon Opera House. It is also just a few miles from the meeting of the rivers. Christmas on the Amazon - Brazil We have heard about the Opera House from many fellow travellers. Hence, we opted for the Golden Era of Manaus tour to tick this off. In hindsight, we should have opted to do the city independently as we became trapped on tour with the guide and 40 other passengers, also receiving a detailed history lesson on each visit, which extended the allowed time and became a very long day, without any free time to explore, eat or relax, definitely not Sal & Wayne style. Back to the tour, our first visit was to Museu da Cidade, a museum in a neoclassical palace featuring hands-on exhibits tracing the culture and history of Manaus. This was supposed to be a 20-minute visit, but it lasted over one hour. Following the museum, we arrived at Teatro Amazonas (Opera House), where we needed to wait out front for 20 minutes before we could enter; we took a few snaps, and then we all entered the historical building from 1896 for a one-hour tour. It was impressive to see! Partway through the tour, we snuck off to visit the cafe and fuel up to get through the remainder! A few other passengers had the same idea. Our guide soon came to rush us back to the bus for the next instalment, a visit to an old mansion built in 1903, Palacio Rio Negro. Palácio Rio Negro is a former seat of government and residence of the governor of the state of Amazonas. The original name was Scholz Palace, built by the German entrepreneur Karl Waldemar Scholz, who was considered a "Rubber Baron". We were nearing the end of the tour, and the last stop was a visit to the local municipality market; we took advantage of our 'free time' of 20 minutes and sourced an ATM and phone shop to purchase a prepaid SIM to stay connected; this caused a few hiccups as Brazil time is anything, but fast, so we asked our guide if we could walk back to the ship; the response was 'No' again, and we had 3 minutes to get back to the bus full of passengers! There was only so much we could do to expedite the purchasing process, and soon, he was storming up the stairs to personally escort us; I had no idea how he found us in the busy centre, but he had his contacts! We returned to the bus (successfully purchasing the SIM) and were greeted with a bus full of passengers waiting to go home! Very pleasant! The bus drove the two minutes to the pier, and we were back on the tenders heading for the ship! We quickly cancelled all future tours and chose to stay with the 'Sal & Wayne' style of discovering destinations independently and with flexibility! We are just not good with rules and restrictions. Manaus was quite an intense city, with high poverty, pollution, rundown buildings, and a significant population, so you needed to have your wits about you. Uber was available to help you get from A to B safely and comfortably. Manaus, Brazil The ship stayed overnight in Manaus, so we all enjoyed a peaceful night on the Amazon. Based on fellow passengers' feedback, we opted to cancel our full-day excursion to the meeting of the rivers, having decided this would not be Wayne and Sal's style. We chose to remain on the ship for the day and enjoy the quiet time to catch up on work. We were blessed with a beautiful sunset as we set sail to navigate our way out of the Amazon. Christmas on the Amazon - Brazil Day 13 - Amazon River, Brazil Today was a day of enjoying cruising the Amazon River and making the most of the views from the balcony. It was also New Year's Eve, so a perfect excuse to pop open a bottle of champagne to celebrate another exciting year of travel. Christmas on the Amazon - Brazil Here are a few fun facts about the Amazon, paired with some cruising captures from the day we travelled to the Atlantic Ocean and cruised south. The Amazon is the world's largest tropical rainforest, covering 40% of the South American continent and home to over 2,000 species of animals. One in ten known species lives in the Amazon Rainforest, as do one in five known bird species, meaning one-third of the world's species can be found in the Amazon. Some animals that live in the Amazon include jaguars, sloths, river dolphins, macaws, anacondas, glass frogs, and poison dart frogs, as well as the most famous residents of the Amazon River, the Amazon river dolphin or boto, which can grow as large as a human. It is unknown why river pink dolphins develop their distinct pink colouration, but blood capillaries near the skin's surface are thought to be responsible. The electric eel is the only known species in the electric fish genus. Despite its name, it is not an eel but a knife fish. They are more closely related to catfish than they are to eels. They can produce powerful electric shocks of up to 600 volts as a defence mechanism and for hunting. Known for their unusual breeding behaviour, in the dry season, the male constructs a nest from his saliva into which the female lays her eggs. As many as 3,000 young can hatch from the eggs of one female. The Black Caiman is the largest Amazon reptile and one of the largest and most effective predators. It has dark, scaly skin, grows up to 10-14 feet in length, and sometimes exceeds 800 pounds in weight. The black caiman hunts pretty much any land-based or river-dwelling animal. It's even been known to eat old or weak Caimans. Christmas on the Amazon - Brazil The evening was filled with fun moments with our dear cruise friends and more mouthwatering food on the beautiful Marina. Join us for our next 'Brazil' chapter as we continue cruising southerly the Brazilian border with Oceania Cruises on our 110-day voyage around South America.
- A Travelling (Un)Retirement Adventure
I was recently featured in an episode of the podcast I Used to be Somebody , hosted by Carl Landau . This opportunity was the perfect moment to reflect on my career and personal journey and connect with an audience eager to redefine retirement and embark on fulfilling second acts. Anyone who loves to travel has probably wondered what it would be like to explore the entire world. I've had that thought, but who follows through with it? Well, let me tell you about our journey. In 2017, my wife Sally and I took a leap of faith. We quit our jobs in Australia, sold our house, cars, and worldly possessions, and set out to experience life as global travellers. Here we are, 92 countries later, living what we call the (un)retirement dream. I've made every mistake possible, but I have no regrets. Over time, we've figured out a lifestyle that works for us as "Digital Nomads." We work 2.5 days a week, offering a unique business model by providing marketing consulting for ten accounting firms. And the rest? Well, that's reserved for adventure. It's been a crazy eight years filled with unforgettable experiences, and I wouldn't trade them for anything.
- The Caribbean - Oceania Cruises
St. Maarten | St Lucia We arrived in the Caribbean two days after leaving Miami on our 110-day cruise . We had been sailing southbound to South America in preparation for our circumnavigation aboard the beautiful Marina with Oceania Cruises. The Caribbean - Oceania Cruises Let's talk about the Caribbean islands we visited, where we got our little taste of paradise. St. Maarten and Saint Lucia. Day four - Philipsburg, St. Maarten Welcome to the turquoise waters of the Caribbean. The Caribbean - Oceania Cruises After two days sailing from Miami, we arrived at our first destination, Philipsburg, and made our way to the Amazon for Christmas and New Year. Seven years ago, we first visited St. Maarten, an island that the Netherlands and France share. We spent our time on the French half on our first visit, so we enjoyed the Dutch half this time. After the Spanish abandoned their fort in 1648, a few Dutch and French soldiers hid on the island and decided to share it; soon after, both countries signed a formal agreement to split the island. After a quick water taxi to the centre, we were hunting for decent wifi, so we bar-hopped until we found a great connection. We also had a small shopping list of essentials, so we took this time to prepare ourselves for the next few months at sea. The island vibe was in full swing, swarming with cruise passengers from the four ships docked and the sweltering heat. The beach was filling up fast, and everyone enjoyed the hot weather! We decided we preferred the French side as it offered more quality dining establishments, was further from the port, and was more peaceful. The Caribbean - Oceania Cruises Day five - Castries, St. Lucia This morning, we arrived in the tropical gem of Saint Lucia, a small Caribbean island located north of Barbados. It is 27 miles long and 24 miles wide. The Caribbean - Oceania Cruises We were docked in Castries, where we could wander off the ship to explore the nearby town and enjoy the local vibe. We visited St Lucia in 2015 and fondly recalled finding a local cafe overlooking the square, so we searched to see it. Afterwards, we strolled the streets, saying hello to all the vibrant and friendly locals and discovering that St Lucia was home to a few Nobel prize winners. We discovered a familiar balcony cafe, although we soon realised it was different. We were previously docked on another part of the island; we later determined the restaurant we were looking for was entirely on another island. We settled in all the same and enjoyed one of the most delicious coffees; we had to stay for two. We loved feeling part of the local life and watching everyone go about their day, the best way to immerse yourself in a new destination. The Caribbean - Oceania Cruises After we were caffeinated, we took to the streets and enjoyed visiting the local market; everyone was super friendly and exuded the island's chilled-out vibe. Once the heat had reached its limit, we snuck back to the ship for lunch and were spoiled with a golden hour sailaway, capturing the tropical gem of an island in the sunset. Thank you, St Lucia, for welcoming us back. The Caribbean - Oceania Cruises Join us for our next chapter, 'Brazil', as we embrace and explore the Amazon over Christmas and New Year with Oceania Cruises on our 110-day voyage around South America.
- Souk/Market - Msemrir Dades Gorges
Souk Hebdomadaire Samedi - Msemrir Sahara Atlas Tours M'Semrir is a commune in the Tinghir Province of the Drâa-Tafilalet administrative region of Morocco. Its population is just under 10,000. This souk is open on Saturdays. The journey through the pass is full of stunning scenery, switching between rugged mountains and beautiful valleys. Within the vast tapestry of Morocco's landscapes, the Market Souk Msemrir stands out as a vibrant testament to the country's rich cultural heritage and bustling daily life. Nestled amidst the scenic wonders of the Dades Gorges, this market is more than just a traditional souk; it's a journey into the heart and soul of Morocco itself. Souk/Market - Msemrir Dades Gorges The drive to the souk on a dirt single-lane road (dual-lane) with a one-kilometre drop to the side was a highlight of our day. The Souk Msemrir awakens every sense. The air here carries the aroma of spices and local delicacies reminiscent of the culinary journeys in the markets of Oualidia. Souk/Market - Msemrir Dades Gorges From rare spices that bring Moroccan cuisine to life to handmade textiles that tell tales of generation-old crafts, the market is a treasure trove to explore. Each stall and shop is a portal into the rich tapestry of Moroccan heritage, offering keepsakes and memories as unique as the souk itself. But perhaps the most enduring aspect of the Market Souk Msemrir is its people. The warmth and hospitality of the vendors, the stories that weave through their crafts and goods, and the shared moments of laughter. For those looking to immerse themselves in the authentic Moroccan experience, the Market Souk Msemrir is an unmissable destination. Every visit reveals new layers, stories, and treasures.
- Hurtigruten Pole to Pole - Week nine
Tropical Waters and Remote Island Communities in the Caribbean - Colombia & Panama. In week nine of our 13-week bucket list Pole to Pole cruise on the MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions , we explored Central America. We fulfilled a bucket list item: the Panama Canal. Day 57 - At Sea, Caribbean Sea Today's most eventful item was the incredible display of birds over lunch; we were mesmerised by the flying creatures following the ship, hunting fish, and even tackling each other for food. The Brown Boobies catch the fish, and the Frigatebirds attempt to steal the Boobie's meal. We had a fantastic view from our window table in Fredheim. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Lunch was also impressive, and we tried the soft steamed buns filled with delicious chicken and peppers; they were so good we had to order seconds. As we chose to visit Erik and King Richard in Fredheim today, we couldn't pass up the opportunity to order a crepe. We were delighted when the chef made a little taste of home for us—a lemon and sugar crepe! Thank you, team Fredheim. Day 58 - Providencia, Colombia Welcome to Country 57. Moving our country tally up has been a great week, and we can expect another one later this week. We are edging closer to 60! As always, we had coffee first, followed by a chat with the lovely Seth, who happens to be working at Hurtigruten on the Customer Care team. He was a ball of energy, and we loved sharing our travel stories with him. Thank you, Seth, for popping over to say hello. We were called to board our tender, and unfortunately, it was complete. Hence, a handful of us passengers had to wait for the crew tender, which, in hindsight, was in our favour due to the tropical rain arriving for a moment, so we missed the downpour and only had to receive a light shower. Sparkling clear turquoise waters now surround us, filling you with a sense of wonderment and delight. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Providencia is a small tropical Caribbean island in Colombia; unfortunately, it was still recovering from a significant hurricane two years ago. The small village community is busy rebuilding and cleaning up, and they didn't let this get them down. They were all full of kindness and warmly welcomed us. We couldn't wait to support them and provide a little financial boost to help them rebuild more quickly. We welcomed the half-hour walk to town with only a light shower, and it was a blessing to keep us more relaxed from the scorching sun and humidity. As soon as the rain stopped, you could feel it coming back; the locals welcomed us with a big wave and hello and took cover under their porch as we walked by. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The island is bursting with bright colours, slowly starting to resurface from the remnants of the hurricane damage. The locals are resilient; I know it will soon return to its glory. Our goal was to find a local establishment to support for lunch and a cold drink. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We finally arrived at one and raced in to spend the afternoon treating ourselves to sample the local Colombian cuisine and mojitos (in a can, but delicious). We chatted with our fellow passengers who had found the same venue, and our lovely new friend Seth joined us; we had a perfect afternoon full of laughter and mojitos! Based on Seth's recommendation, we popped into a cafe nearby and sampled the Colombian coffee; we were a little sceptical, not being black coffee drinkers, but Seth was spot on, and it was incredible! Thank you, Seth! We started our return to the tender and, fortunately, found a shuttle going by. We jumped in and enjoyed a sing-along in Spanish with our driver, and the latest state-of-the-art air conditioning; leave the doors open. We had a blast, stopping every so often to pick up fellow passengers and give them solace from the heat. I think we managed to squeeze over ten of us in, and our driver wanted to pick up more! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We were back on the ship for a much-needed cold shower and to enjoy the evening. Unfortunately, we had tried to return in time for the local cultural performance, but we arrived too late once we were showered, due to the delay with the tender, and everyone was trying to do the same. The evening was spent enjoying cocktails, meeting more fellow passengers, and everyone sharing their stories of the day. Day 59 - San Andrés, Colombia Today, we arrived around 9 am in San Andrés, a Colombian island in the Caribbean Sea off the coast of Nicaragua. It’s known for its coral reefs and reggae music, definitely popular with tourists. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole All excursions were delayed due to a slow clearance from authorities. Once we were cleared, the passengers were on the tenders to embark on their tours. There is usually an inclusive tour and a couple of paid options to visit villages, sample local cuisine, enjoy beach days, and go snorkelling. We commonly opt for the independent as we love to get lost in a new place and explore at our own pace. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We enjoyed a coffee from our lovely Arnel in the Explorer's Lounge (he truly makes the best coffee) and used the time to research the best places for lunch and cocktails. Around lunch, we were on the island, a very short tender, although very hot, so we tried to nab a seat in the open air. Once on the island, a free shuttle took you 30 minutes into town. Watch these guys as they still want you to pay on arrival, even though Hurtigruten has provided them for passengers. A quick stroll to our restaurant on the boulevard, with views of the crystal waters and air-conditioned indoors! We thoroughly enjoyed the new cuisine. We had a day of Asian, which was most welcome, and the cocktails were a nice warm-up to the day! After spending a few months in Canada and the US, it was also a pleasant surprise to receive a lazy lunch bill of AUD100, which was significantly lower than the average of AUD350. We quickly had six cocktails and a few courses. After lunch, we took on the sweltering heat to stroll the beach, were quickly defeated, and waited for our taxi. He messaged to say he would be half an hour late, which meant we would have missed the last tender, so we hailed a cab for USD20 and were back in time. We spent our first night in the room; after a hot and humid day, it was nice to hide away. We were incredibly spoiled by our beautiful team in Lindstrom, who were only happy to deliver our meals. Thank you, Raymond and Helen 🙏 This evening, we received a letter advising that another country has been removed from our Pole to Pole due to COVID restrictions on cruise ships. To avoid the risk of the vessel being quarantined, Peru has been cancelled, and we now have an additional port in Ecuador, as well as four seas instead. Hopefully, we will be surprised with a new destination from Ecuador to Chile🤞 Nicaragua was also cancelled for the same reason this week. Fun fact: Always walk the beach before you decide to frolic in the water, and do a quick check on the health of the water. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole , Day 60 - Bocas del Toro, Panama It is a busy week for these two slow travellers, who are counting new countries. Last year, we visited six countries, and we've already visited three this week! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Bocas, as the locals refer to it, is the archipelago of Panama. It stole our hearts with its island vibe and beautiful people, and with stunning views, it is fast becoming a gastronomic destination right up our alley! In a new country, the ship and passengers needed to be cleared; after a few hours, we explored Isla Colon, one of the three islands in Bocas, which is attached to mainland Panama. The zodiacs were out to whisk us to shore, the sun was taking a break, and the rain was to keep us company; we didn't let this get us down. We just ducked out of the walking excursion and escaped to Meren Pool Club, a new beach club, to stay dry and quenched for the afternoon. The food and cocktails were excellent, and the Panamanians' beautiful nature and the beach club's decor and design were very chic. All places offer incredibly high-speed Wi-Fi and English menus, making them a perfect destination for digital nomads. We bar-hopped back to the ship and loved meeting the locals for a chat; even as we walked along, we were enthralled in conversation with locals. After chats with the locals and feeling at home with the island vibe, think of Koh Samui in Thailand. We are already planning an extended stay in Isla Colón, Panama. We enjoyed a drink with the lovely Emilie from Hurtigruten, who brought her boundless positive energy to the occasion, along with fellow passengers, and then headed back to the ship to make our way to Colon. Day 61 - Colon, Panama This morning was disembarkation day. We woke to a very peaceful ship, as all guests had checked out to explore Panama City and travel home. The Pole to Pole guests were fortunate to be on an organised excursion of Colon, which we were grateful for, as after researching online, it isn't recommended to do it independently. Below is the local prison, which was in dire condition but reflects reality today in Colon, a city home to the Panama Canal with a daily revenue of approximately $ 15 million. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Colón is a city and seaport in Panama, on the Caribbean Sea, near the Atlantic entrance to the Panama Canal; it has traditionally been known as Panama's second city. The vast Colón Free Trade Zone offers tax-free shopping, and over 3000 stores are located in a nearby pocket of the city. It is the distribution centre of all goods for South America. A bus awaited us on an excursion to popular sites near Colon. With Carlos, our guide, and Jorge keeping us safe on the road, we drove through the streets of the outskirts of Colon. Seeing the reality of the living conditions for the people and the city was quite disheartening. Carlos described to us only yesterday that the areas we were going through were one metre underwater, so they were dealing with the remnants of the flooding. First, we surprised visitors with a visit to the northern entrance of the Panama Canal, at Gatun Lock, where a visitor centre and viewing platform are located to observe ships in transit. We were excited to hear one was leaving the last chamber and another was entering the first. We experienced the whole event from the viewing platform, including the chamber gates opening and closing, and the power of gravity as the water rose and was released into the lock chambers. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole It was genuinely fascinating, especially as we would all experience the transit on our ship the following day. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We were overwhelmed with information as we learned all about the Panama Canal and the country of Panama. Here are some fun facts below. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole As we were heading back to the bus, we were surprised to see a visitor out front, a coati, part of the raccoon family. He was familiar with having humans in his presence, so we all took the opportunity to snap some pics of our first Coatis sightings. Next, we visited Fort San Lorenzo. To access the fort, you drive through an abandoned US Army training base during the Vietnam War, a dense jungle rainforest and mangroves, hearing stories about the crocodiles who cross the roads at night to hunt; therefore, no night walking is recommended unless you are keen on being their appetiser, to also the road we travelled on being nicknamed 'crunch road' when the crabs are migrating, as millions come to the area to do so. It becomes impossible to avoid them as you drive through. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Within half an hour, we arrived at a well-preserved 18th-century colonial military structure. These UNESCO seaside ruins offer sweeping views of the mouth of the Chagres River. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We strolled through the historic site and admired the panoramic views. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We even encountered an army of disciplined little ants delivering food and shelter to their home. The little things, we were all enthralled by the ant's trail. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Upon leaving, we were also treated to another Coatis visitor as we departed. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Carlos was an excellent guide. His insights were just the right amount, and we learned many fun facts. We were whisked back to the ship after a drive-by tour of Colon and the sites; we were also advised to steer clear and stay in our bubble of safety on the ship. It was a fantastic morning. We checked off a bucket list item, and after a quick duty-free shop, we were back in the safety of our floating home for a delicious lunch at Fredheim. Our new fellow passengers were embarking, and everyone was excited to kick off their vacation. They have all been an absolute delight onboard, sharing travel stories and the new segment as we explore the West Coast of South America. Fun facts: Panama hats are made in Ecuador; more on this next week Until 1979, Colon was part of America. US citizens can retire back to Colon and receive 20 years of tax-free income. Approximately 80% of Panama City's population is of Chinese descent, largely due to the railway construction, and 80% of Colon's population is from Barbados and Jamaica, primarily due to the canal. Every little town has a different influence. Ships transiting through the canals pay for all containers and cabins, whether occupied or empty. On average, it is 350k per ship to cross the channel. The canals make an average of 12-15 million daily in revenue, and the minimum wage is $600 monthly. A dry canal refers to the process of offloading containers in a port and then using rail to transport the cargo. Another ship waits to collect on the other side to continue the move. Some companies want to save dollars and opt for a dry canal. The Panama Canal was inaugurated in 1914; for 85 years, the United States operated and maintained government control. In 1999, the canal was transferred to Panama, which now operates and manages the route. A new lock was built to transport more cargo and more than 40,000 workers, and the larger canal was inaugurated in 2016. The old canal does not recycle water; the new one uses the same water three times, refreshed to avoid pollution, and only recycles during the dry season. Fifty-two million gallons of water are released from the lake each transit in the old canal. Up to 10,000 people work in the canal today. The channel pays the best salaries in Panama, with the top level for pilots reaching $500,000 a year. The locals of Colon are now turning their home kitchens into restaurants, cooking up home-style feasts for people to enjoy at a small cost, promoting healthy eating habits, and supporting local businesses since the COVID-19 pandemic. Day 62 - Panama Canal Transit Today was the transit through the Panama Canal, an experience both Wayne and I have had on our bucket list for over 15 years. We booked a cruise in 2009 but decided to change our plans and postpone the cruise (which never eventuated). HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We were advised to enter the first lock at 8:45 am (the Atlantic exit), so we set the alarm and were up and ready. The ship was on schedule, and we commenced our entry into the first chamber (as we are a smaller ship, the old canal chambers were for us); there were three in total, and we were supported by a tug boat at the front and rear, along with the mules (locomotive trains). It takes about one hour to go through the three chambers as you experience the waters in the chambers using the force of gravity to raise you and bring you to the same level, so that we can continue our transit to the South Pacific. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We arrived at Miraflores Lock (the Pacific entrance) around 5 pm, and the same process to enter, lower and exit the chambers; this was perfect timing to call my Mum and Dad in Australia, who also wanted to share this moment with us, they were also able to enjoy it over the wifi. The video images were blurry, but didn't ruin the moment. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Once through the last of the chambers, we had completed the entry into the Pacific Ocean; it was a beautiful evening, blessed with a vivid and colourful sunset, over a backdrop of ships all waiting their turn to cross into the Atlantic Ocean. After experiencing the Panama Canal locks from both outside and inside the ship, we felt the visit to watch the ships transit the waves was much more enjoyable. Once on the ship, it is difficult to fully understand the power of the process due to visibility, but we loved having the opportunity to experience both sides. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Our lovely team spoiled us again this evening, and we enjoyed our dinner in the suite—a special thank you to our dear Aries and the Lindstrom team. Day 63 - At Sea, Crossing the Equator, Ecuador Week nine finished with the crossing of the Equator from the North to the South Pacific Ocean. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The sun shone, and we were all treated to the Equator crossing ritual during the afternoon. The ceremony is a long-standing tradition of initiation that commemorates a sailor's first time crossing the Equator. In this case, King Neptune, the Captain, and the team all came out in preparation for the baptism. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole King Neptune is said to be the ruler of the seas, and this entire shindig is orchestrated to appease the King by showing him respect, keeping sailors away from the perils of the sea, and bringing good luck. We all queued up for the tradition, and Wayne, of course, was first. The Captain and crew baptised us with a splash of ice, bright red liquid (just food dye), and a refreshing spray from the fire hose as we crossed the Equator. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole It was much easier than the Arctic Circle crossing, where the ice-cold water and ice ceremoniously drizzled down our backs in a few degrees! Everyone was energised and enjoyed the moment, with lots of laughter. The ship has renewed energy for the new leg as we embark on our Ecuador and Chile segments. Unfortunately, Peru has been excluded due to local COVID-19 restrictions, which are outside of Hurtigruten's control, but it will always be available for another time. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The poor expedition team suffered the worst of it, as it was their first time experiencing the crossing. We followed this with the Captain's welcome in the lounge and a meet-and-greet with the new crew members who had joined us for the next South American segment. Dinner was next, and we celebrated the lovely Barbara's 69th birthday; she joined us with her hubby for the new leg with the team. Smiles all around. We all retired early and prepared for our new destination, Manta, Ecuador , and our 59th country. We can't wait to share 'week ten' as we explore the undiscovered gem of Ecuador .















