Hurtigruten Pole to Pole - Week nine
- Sal Schmidt
- Oct 10, 2022
- 13 min read
Updated: 5 minutes ago
Tropical Waters and Remote Island Communities in the Caribbean - Colombia & Panama.
In week nine of our 13-week bucket list Pole to Pole cruise on the MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions, we explored Central America. We fulfilled a bucket list item: the Panama Canal.
Day 57 - At Sea, Caribbean Sea
Today's most eventful item was the incredible display of birds over lunch; we were mesmerised by the flying creatures following the ship, hunting fish, and even tackling each other for food. The Brown Boobies catch the fish, and the Frigatebirds attempt to steal the Boobie's meal. We had a fantastic view from our window table in Fredheim.
Lunch was also impressive, and we tried the soft steamed buns filled with delicious chicken and peppers; they were so good we had to order seconds.
As we chose to visit Erik and King Richard in Fredheim today, we couldn't pass up the opportunity to order a crepe. We were delighted when the chef made a little taste of home for us—a lemon and sugar crepe! Thank you, team Fredheim.
Day 58 - Providencia, Colombia
Welcome to Country 57. Moving our country tally up has been a great week, and we can expect another one later this week. We are edging closer to 60!
As always, we had coffee first, followed by a chat with the lovely Seth, who happens to be working at Hurtigruten on the Customer Care team. He was a ball of energy, and we loved sharing our travel stories with him. Thank you, Seth, for popping over to say hello.
We were called to board our tender, and unfortunately, it was complete. Hence, a handful of us passengers had to wait for the crew tender, which, in hindsight, was in our favour due to the tropical rain arriving for a moment, so we missed the downpour and only had to receive a light shower.
Sparkling clear turquoise waters now surround us, filling you with a sense of wonderment and delight.
Providencia is a small tropical Caribbean island in Colombia; unfortunately, it was still recovering from a significant hurricane two years ago. The small village community is busy rebuilding and cleaning up, and they didn't let this get them down. They were all full of kindness and warmly welcomed us. We couldn't wait to support them and provide a little financial boost to help them rebuild more quickly.
We welcomed the half-hour walk to town with only a light shower, and it was a blessing to keep us more relaxed from the scorching sun and humidity. As soon as the rain stopped, you could feel it coming back; the locals welcomed us with a big wave and hello and took cover under their porch as we walked by.
The island is bursting with bright colours, slowly starting to resurface from the remnants of the hurricane damage. The locals are resilient; I know it will soon return to its glory.
Our goal was to find a local establishment to support for lunch and a cold drink.
We finally arrived at one and raced in to spend the afternoon treating ourselves to sample the local Colombian cuisine and mojitos (in a can, but delicious). We chatted with our fellow passengers who had found the same venue, and our lovely new friend Seth joined us; we had a perfect afternoon full of laughter and mojitos!
Based on Seth's recommendation, we popped into a cafe nearby and sampled the Colombian coffee; we were a little sceptical, not being black coffee drinkers, but Seth was spot on, and it was incredible! Thank you, Seth!
We started our return to the tender and, fortunately, found a shuttle going by. We jumped in and enjoyed a sing-along in Spanish with our driver, and the latest state-of-the-art air conditioning; leave the doors open. We had a blast, stopping every so often to pick up fellow passengers and give them solace from the heat. I think we managed to squeeze over ten of us in, and our driver wanted to pick up more!
We were back on the ship for a much-needed cold shower and to enjoy the evening. Unfortunately, we had tried to return in time for the local cultural performance, but we arrived too late once we were showered, due to the delay with the tender, and everyone was trying to do the same.
The evening was spent enjoying cocktails, meeting more fellow passengers, and everyone sharing their stories of the day.
Day 59 - San Andrés, Colombia
Today, we arrived around 9 am in San Andrés, a Colombian island in the Caribbean Sea off the coast of Nicaragua. It’s known for its coral reefs and reggae music, definitely popular with tourists.
All excursions were delayed due to a slow clearance from authorities. Once we were cleared, the passengers were on the tenders to embark on their tours. There is usually an inclusive tour and a couple of paid options to visit villages, sample local cuisine, enjoy beach days, and go snorkelling. We commonly opt for the independent as we love to get lost in a new place and explore at our own pace.
We enjoyed a coffee from our lovely Arnel in the Explorer's Lounge (he truly makes the best coffee) and used the time to research the best places for lunch and cocktails.
Around lunch, we were on the island, a very short tender, although very hot, so we tried to nab a seat in the open air. Once on the island, a free shuttle took you 30 minutes into town. Watch these guys as they still want you to pay on arrival, even though Hurtigruten has provided them for passengers.
A quick stroll to our restaurant on the boulevard, with views of the crystal waters and air-conditioned indoors! We thoroughly enjoyed the new cuisine. We had a day of Asian, which was most welcome, and the cocktails were a nice warm-up to the day! After spending a few months in Canada and the US, it was also a pleasant surprise to receive a lazy lunch bill of AUD100, which was significantly lower than the average of AUD350. We quickly had six cocktails and a few courses.
After lunch, we took on the sweltering heat to stroll the beach, were quickly defeated, and waited for our taxi. He messaged to say he would be half an hour late, which meant we would have missed the last tender, so we hailed a cab for USD20 and were back in time.
We spent our first night in the room; after a hot and humid day, it was nice to hide away. We were incredibly spoiled by our beautiful team in Lindstrom, who were only happy to deliver our meals. Thank you, Raymond and Helen 🙏
This evening, we received a letter advising that another country has been removed from our Pole to Pole due to COVID restrictions on cruise ships. To avoid the risk of the vessel being quarantined, Peru has been cancelled, and we now have an additional port in Ecuador, as well as four seas instead. Hopefully, we will be surprised with a new destination from Ecuador to Chile🤞 Nicaragua was also cancelled for the same reason this week.
Fun fact:
Always walk the beach before you decide to frolic in the water, and do a quick check on the health of the water.
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Day 60 - Bocas del Toro, Panama
It is a busy week for these two slow travellers, who are counting new countries. Last year, we visited six countries, and we've already visited three this week!
Bocas, as the locals refer to it, is the archipelago of Panama. It stole our hearts with its island vibe and beautiful people, and with stunning views, it is fast becoming a gastronomic destination right up our alley!
In a new country, the ship and passengers needed to be cleared; after a few hours, we explored Isla Colon, one of the three islands in Bocas, which is attached to mainland Panama. The zodiacs were out to whisk us to shore, the sun was taking a break, and the rain was to keep us company; we didn't let this get us down. We just ducked out of the walking excursion and escaped to Meren Pool Club, a new beach club, to stay dry and quenched for the afternoon.
The food and cocktails were excellent, and the Panamanians' beautiful nature and the beach club's decor and design were very chic.
All places offer incredibly high-speed Wi-Fi and English menus, making them a perfect destination for digital nomads.
We bar-hopped back to the ship and loved meeting the locals for a chat; even as we walked along, we were enthralled in conversation with locals.
After chats with the locals and feeling at home with the island vibe, think of Koh Samui in Thailand. We are already planning an extended stay in Isla Colón, Panama.
We enjoyed a drink with the lovely Emilie from Hurtigruten, who brought her boundless positive energy to the occasion, along with fellow passengers, and then headed back to the ship to make our way to Colon.
Day 61 - Colon, Panama
This morning was disembarkation day. We woke to a very peaceful ship, as all guests had checked out to explore Panama City and travel home.
The Pole to Pole guests were fortunate to be on an organised excursion of Colon, which we were grateful for, as after researching online, it isn't recommended to do it independently.
Below is the local prison, which was in dire condition but reflects reality today in Colon, a city home to the Panama Canal with a daily revenue of approximately $ 15 million.
Colón is a city and seaport in Panama, on the Caribbean Sea, near the Atlantic entrance to the Panama Canal; it has traditionally been known as Panama's second city.
The vast Colón Free Trade Zone offers tax-free shopping, and over 3000 stores are located in a nearby pocket of the city. It is the distribution centre of all goods for South America.
A bus awaited us on an excursion to popular sites near Colon. With Carlos, our guide, and Jorge keeping us safe on the road, we drove through the streets of the outskirts of Colon. Seeing the reality of the living conditions for the people and the city was quite disheartening. Carlos described to us only yesterday that the areas we were going through were one metre underwater, so they were dealing with the remnants of the flooding.
First, we surprised visitors with a visit to the northern entrance of the Panama Canal, at Gatun Lock, where a visitor centre and viewing platform are located to observe ships in transit.
We were excited to hear one was leaving the last chamber and another was entering the first. We experienced the whole event from the viewing platform, including the chamber gates opening and closing, and the power of gravity as the water rose and was released into the lock chambers.
It was genuinely fascinating, especially as we would all experience the transit on our ship the following day.
We were overwhelmed with information as we learned all about the Panama Canal and the country of Panama. Here are some fun facts below.
As we were heading back to the bus, we were surprised to see a visitor out front, a coati, part of the raccoon family. He was familiar with having humans in his presence, so we all took the opportunity to snap some pics of our first Coatis sightings.
Next, we visited Fort San Lorenzo. To access the fort, you drive through an abandoned US Army training base during the Vietnam War, a dense jungle rainforest and mangroves, hearing stories about the crocodiles who cross the roads at night to hunt; therefore, no night walking is recommended unless you are keen on being their appetiser, to also the road we travelled on being nicknamed 'crunch road' when the crabs are migrating, as millions come to the area to do so. It becomes impossible to avoid them as you drive through.
Within half an hour, we arrived at a well-preserved 18th-century colonial military structure. These UNESCO seaside ruins offer sweeping views of the mouth of the Chagres River.
We strolled through the historic site and admired the panoramic views.
We even encountered an army of disciplined little ants delivering food and shelter to their home. The little things, we were all enthralled by the ant's trail.
Upon leaving, we were also treated to another Coatis visitor as we departed.
Carlos was an excellent guide. His insights were just the right amount, and we learned many fun facts. We were whisked back to the ship after a drive-by tour of Colon and the sites; we were also advised to steer clear and stay in our bubble of safety on the ship.
It was a fantastic morning. We checked off a bucket list item, and after a quick duty-free shop, we were back in the safety of our floating home for a delicious lunch at Fredheim.
Our new fellow passengers were embarking, and everyone was excited to kick off their vacation. They have all been an absolute delight onboard, sharing travel stories and the new segment as we explore the West Coast of South America.
Fun facts:
Panama hats are made in Ecuador; more on this next week
Until 1979, Colon was part of America. US citizens can retire back to Colon and receive 20 years of tax-free income.
Approximately 80% of Panama City's population is of Chinese descent, largely due to the railway construction, and 80% of Colon's population is from Barbados and Jamaica, primarily due to the canal. Every little town has a different influence.
Ships transiting through the canals pay for all containers and cabins, whether occupied or empty. On average, it is 350k per ship to cross the channel.
The canals make an average of 12-15 million daily in revenue, and the minimum wage is $600 monthly.
A dry canal refers to the process of offloading containers in a port and then using rail to transport the cargo. Another ship waits to collect on the other side to continue the move. Some companies want to save dollars and opt for a dry canal.
The Panama Canal was inaugurated in 1914; for 85 years, the United States operated and maintained government control.
In 1999, the canal was transferred to Panama, which now operates and manages the route. A new lock was built to transport more cargo and more than 40,000 workers, and the larger canal was inaugurated in 2016.
The old canal does not recycle water; the new one uses the same water three times, refreshed to avoid pollution, and only recycles during the dry season.
Fifty-two million gallons of water are released from the lake each transit in the old canal.
Up to 10,000 people work in the canal today. The channel pays the best salaries in Panama, with the top level for pilots reaching $500,000 a year.
The locals of Colon are now turning their home kitchens into restaurants, cooking up home-style feasts for people to enjoy at a small cost, promoting healthy eating habits, and supporting local businesses since the COVID-19 pandemic.
Day 62 - Panama Canal Transit
Today was the transit through the Panama Canal, an experience both Wayne and I have had on our bucket list for over 15 years. We booked a cruise in 2009 but decided to change our plans and postpone the cruise (which never eventuated).
We were advised to enter the first lock at 8:45 am (the Atlantic exit), so we set the alarm and were up and ready.
The ship was on schedule, and we commenced our entry into the first chamber (as we are a smaller ship, the old canal chambers were for us); there were three in total, and we were supported by a tug boat at the front and rear, along with the mules (locomotive trains). It takes about one hour to go through the three chambers as you experience the waters in the chambers using the force of gravity to raise you and bring you to the same level, so that we can continue our transit to the South Pacific.
We arrived at Miraflores Lock (the Pacific entrance) around 5 pm, and the same process to enter, lower and exit the chambers; this was perfect timing to call my Mum and Dad in Australia, who also wanted to share this moment with us, they were also able to enjoy it over the wifi. The video images were blurry, but didn't ruin the moment.
Once through the last of the chambers, we had completed the entry into the Pacific Ocean; it was a beautiful evening, blessed with a vivid and colourful sunset, over a backdrop of ships all waiting their turn to cross into the Atlantic Ocean.
After experiencing the Panama Canal locks from both outside and inside the ship, we felt the visit to watch the ships transit the waves was much more enjoyable. Once on the ship, it is difficult to fully understand the power of the process due to visibility, but we loved having the opportunity to experience both sides.
Our lovely team spoiled us again this evening, and we enjoyed our dinner in the suite—a special thank you to our dear Aries and the Lindstrom team.
Day 63 - At Sea, Crossing the Equator, Ecuador
Week nine finished with the crossing of the Equator from the North to the South Pacific Ocean.
The sun shone, and we were all treated to the Equator crossing ritual during the afternoon.
The ceremony is a long-standing tradition of initiation that commemorates a sailor's first time crossing the Equator. In this case, King Neptune, the Captain, and the team all came out in preparation for the baptism.
King Neptune is said to be the ruler of the seas, and this entire shindig is orchestrated to appease the King by showing him respect, keeping sailors away from the perils of the sea, and bringing good luck.
We all queued up for the tradition, and Wayne, of course, was first. The Captain and crew baptised us with a splash of ice, bright red liquid (just food dye), and a refreshing spray from the fire hose as we crossed the Equator.
It was much easier than the Arctic Circle crossing, where the ice-cold water and ice ceremoniously drizzled down our backs in a few degrees!
Everyone was energised and enjoyed the moment, with lots of laughter. The ship has renewed energy for the new leg as we embark on our Ecuador and Chile segments. Unfortunately, Peru has been excluded due to local COVID-19 restrictions, which are outside of Hurtigruten's control, but it will always be available for another time.
The poor expedition team suffered the worst of it, as it was their first time experiencing the crossing.
We followed this with the Captain's welcome in the lounge and a meet-and-greet with the new crew members who had joined us for the next South American segment.
Dinner was next, and we celebrated the lovely Barbara's 69th birthday; she joined us with her hubby for the new leg with the team. Smiles all around.
We all retired early and prepared for our new destination, Manta, Ecuador, and our 59th country.
We can't wait to share 'week ten' as we explore the undiscovered gem of Ecuador.
Beautiful to “sail” along on your adventure. We loved our RA south bLund Alaska Inside Passage to Vancouver in early July just before your Pole to Pole. I am so enjoying your jour via your blog.