Kazbegi - Georgia

After spending the past few weeks in hotels, we were more than eager to arrive at our Airbnb and nest for 11 nights. We had researched the perfect place and crossed our fingers and toes, hoping it truly ticked our boxes, being cosy and warm with breathtaking views of the Caucasus Mountains region.

Our hidden gem of an Airbnb was located in Akhaltsikehe, just 12km from Stepantsminda, perched on a hill, guaranteeing the most breathtaking views in the Caucasus Mountains region.

After we were prepped with food, coffee and wine for our stay, we were on the road. We struggled to find butchers locally, so it was going to be a meat-free stay for us, but we were well-stocked on fresh produce from the local store. It was impressive that the lovely store owner still used an abacus. We love these moments as you travel.

As we were a little early arriving, we took the opportunity to take a drive and explore the area; we were in the heart of the valley with everlasting views; the house, as promised, was perched high up on a steep hill and was encompassed by not only Mt Kazbek (third-highest peak in Georgia) but Mt Shani (4,451m and is on the international border between Georgia and Ingushetia, Russia), another impressive mountain just on the border of Russia.

We were excited to check in, and after arriving, we were only too pleased with ourselves; we were onto a winner. Our dear hosts, a father and son duo, were absolutely adorable. We conversed by Google Translate, and our hearts were full; these guys have created a magical getaway for all to enjoy and escape to Georgian nature.

The home was like no other; first and foremost, it was super cosy, warm and designed with floor-to-ceiling windows to take in the majestic 360-degree views day and night.

During our trips to the local town to stock up, we loved the morning drives past all the wild horses grazing roadside and swimming in the nearby bodies of water. One morning, we arrived in town, and a herd of horses were in the centre amongst traffic, catching a drink from the fountain. It is not something you experience every day, but it is widespread in these parts of Georgia; we definitely played the tourist that day, with our camera at hand.

We spent the next few weeks nesting, catching up on work, enjoying downtime, taking daily walks, cleaning the earth and feeding the wild horses who would come by to graze each day. They soon ate out of our hands and were only too happy to have us in their presence. We couldn't wait to visit our new local produce lady to stock up on apples and carrots to keep our new friends nourished.

Time slowed as we nested and took a break from travelling; it was pure bliss. The days would pass, watching captivating sunrises, sunsets, and ever-changing mountainscapes, and enjoying being near all the beautiful horses.

One afternoon, we were out clearing the meadow, and a little mishap happened; my iPhone 13 decided it was keen to 'camp out' with the horses in the meadow for the night, and after a few hours of searching, we admitted defeat; it was just below zero, so we retired for the night! Find my iPhone kicked in later that evening, and we could pinpoint the location; brave hubby took to the darkness with a torch from our spare phone (I think we all know how this mishap happened...), but after one hour of searching, as it wasn't pinging, he soon returned!

The rain was teasing us with a light shower, then fully invited itself in to settle for the evening; after five hours of torrential downpour, we were confident our phone wished it had decided against a night out in the bush!

The following day, we retraced our steps and were guided by Find My iPhone. After a short ping to the phone, it responded and shared its location with us. Albeit it was a little cold and surprisingly steered clear of becoming waterlogged after landing face down on the ground, it was back in our safe little hands, and lo and behold, it was working, undamaged and in perfect condition. The universe was on our side!

A couple of other little surprises happened over our stay; later that evening, the first snowfall blessed us with its presence; we love a winter wonderland, so we were over the moon! As morning approached, it was full of silence and pure white fresh snow. The first snowfall was 35 cm overnight, and the world surrounding us was like a painting, a beautiful Georgian winter welcome!

Our hosts were lovely and popped by with some freshly caught fish for us. The following day, bread and homemade cheese, and let's not forget the homemade Cognac, we were invited out on the deck to enjoy and savour the moment together of the first snowfall, soon realising it is also a trick to stay warm in the below-zero temps, we got down to -12 in only a few days! Only after the cognac bottle was dry after 20 mins did we realise our work day was over and it was time to sober up before noon, but not before we felt another couple of G&Ts were a good idea! The warmth and kindness of our hosts will hold a special place forever in our hearts; it's moments like this you cherish as you travel; they are truly precious! Our hearts were full, and Stepantsminda, Georgia, you are a true gift!

Fun fact: Australia has the world's largest population of wild horses. At least one million “brumbies,” as the horses are known, roam free throughout the continent.

Date visited: 21 November 2023