From Halifax to Boston - History, Seafood and Nature Reserves - Canada, United States Week seven on our 13-week bucket list Pole to Pole cruise on the MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions , as we explore the East Coast jewels of Maine and arrive in Boston. Day 43 - Eastport, Maine, US As we crossed from Canada to the US this morning and were greeted with some tumultuous waters, the weather gods are on strike, a dramatic change from the day before. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Eastport has the deepest port on the East Coast, and this region is notorious for its high tides and powerful currents. We don't let the weather get us down and are up bright and early to be cleared by US border control, who joined us on the ship this morning for a face-to-face and to stamp our entry. Early afternoon, the weather was still challenging, blowing a gale with sideways rain; therefore, the expedition team cancelled the lobster boat trips; our fellow passengers would have sighed with relief, as the boats were not weather protected, and the waters were not inviting. We dressed for the wet weather; our Canada Goose jackets were ideal for protecting us from the wind and rain, and we set out on foot to explore. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Fortunately, Eastport is only a little village with 1400 locals, so we swept up the Main Street, took in a few sites and were then drawn into Phoenix Fine Wines , a wine bar, not only by the name but the live Celtic band playing music invited us in. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We are warmly welcomed by the energetic and friendly owner, Laura, and the Celtic trio; we are in the right place. We quickly settle into the cosy chairs near the band and floor-to-ceiling windows with a glass of red and enjoy the backdrop of the ever-changing tides of Passamaquoddy Bay; you can quickly while away the afternoon. We also ordered the cheese platter. All food products are sourced from local producers, including the cheese from local goats, cows, and sheep. They have a selection of wines by the bottle, glass, and small bites. We love supporting local businesses and are thrilled when they do. Opened this July, the wine bar is like stepping back in time. Irish folk music transports you back 100 years while you relax in the beautiful wooded surroundings and antique furniture; think of an old mansion library surrounded by books to peruse. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The building was built in 1887 after the Great Fire of 1886 decimated downtown Eastport. Over the last Century, it was home to various businesses but was neglected in the second Century and fell into disrepair. It has since been reborn as a brewery and wine bar for all to enjoy. Huge glass-pane windows offer an everlasting view across the waters, music, atmosphere, comfort, and smiles from the lovely owner, accompanied by great food and wine all wrapped up in one. She has the formula just right. The locals were all very welcoming and loved hearing about our cruise and travels. We were grateful to have spent the afternoon in a beautiful wine bar to escape the rain and build memories of our visit to Eastport. We were joined by our ship friends Daniel and Sylvia, and then we bid our farewells and escaped back to the safety and warmth of our ship. Eastport would be a lovely little village to explore more when the weather is on our side. Day 44 - Bar Harbor, Maine, US Bar Harbor is a hidden jewel on the Maine coast. It is home to 5,500 people, is the gateway to Acadia National Park, and is world-renowned for the Maine Lobster. A very picturesque town with a stunning coastline, it was well designed and perfectly laid out, a perfect village. The lifestyle was inviting and calming , spoilt with trendy eateries, art galleries , beautiful boutiques, and limitless accommodation options ; all the inns were out of a picture book! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Think of stately and mansion homes. It was also refreshing to see a couple of locally made gift/souvenir shops ; it's much nicer to support locals and see 'Made in Maine' instead of ' Made in China'. The private homes were easily confused with the inns. The imposing stately homes had beautiful, lush, green manicured lawns with expansive backyards to the crystal clear waters, and could easily host a family of 20. We left no stone unturned as we lost ourselves in the pristine streets of the village. At every opportunity, we would have also loved to take the Acadia National Park (the most visited park in the US), which borders Bar Harbour. Still, we opted to be independent travellers and enjoyed the peacefulness of the village. I am sure we missed out on some magnificent scenery and photo ops, but we have learned as we travel that you can't see everything and have no regrets; maybe one day we will return, and a gift will still be waiting for us. The shore path was a stunning walk along the shoreline, taking in the private mansions and views they called the museum of the streets. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole During low tide, you can walk across to Bar Island, although you must be careful to avoid being left there for the night. The wave was still in when we arrived, but it was a fabulous photo opportunity. Take your time to explore the hidden streets and be surprised by the hidden dining scene off the beaten path, with more locals and fewer tourists. After we had uncovered most of Bar Harbour's pristine streets, we settled in for the afternoon at a local pub, enjoying a cheeky cocktail and lunch! The fish and chips were delicious, and you can't visit the States and not try the Mac and cheese, which also received a big thumbs up! Our lovely waitress was full of positive energy and good, honest service; she deserved her tip, not that she asked or expected one. We left for the ship with a bounce in our step. Okay, there was more than one cocktail, and the barman was very generous with the measures. We opted to enjoy a lazy evening and skipped dinner after breakfast and lunch today. We do try to limit ourselves to just two meals a day. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Day 45 - Rockland, Maine It has been a moody week of weather; we have glorious sunshine every second day and the perfect fall day, followed by the skies wanting to ensure we have had our morning shower. But as we say, we don't let the weather get us down or in our way; it is all about our journey, and we are all waterproof. This morning, we arrived in Rockland, a classic Maine coastal town with a population of 7,000. It is also one of the world's biggest shipping centres for lobster. Rockland, located in the heart of the mid-coast area, is famous for its natural coastal beauty and magnificent rocky shoreline. It is also home to the Rockland Breakwater lighthouse, which you can visit by walking out over the breakwater. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We were up at 7 am so we could make the first tender and enjoy a coffee (USD 18 for 2), and the few hours of the day before, the skies were going to pour down heavily; fortunately, it wasn't cold, about 16 degrees, it was just one of those grim and wet looking days. We enjoyed a few hours of walking about town before we admitted defeat and popped into a cafe for a coffee and a little treat. We noticed a dramatic change in architecture and homes from beautiful Bar Harbour, only 100 km up the coast. Rockland Centre was missing the richness of character that other nearby towns were blessed with. Or maybe we just took a right instead of a left. Before the storm, we returned to the ship of our dry and cosy surroundings. After an afternoon of rest, we were then gifted with a magical sky before dinner. It felt like the sky was on fire on one side of the ship and a double iridescent rainbow on the other. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole It was a lovely gift from Mother Nature to let us know there was a reason for the wet and stormy day. Our plans were changed this evening due to Hurricane Fiona heading our way. Fiona is following the same path in reverse. We just sailed from Greenland. Captain Terje is keeping us all safe and decided to skip Provincetown and have us arrive in Boston while the port was still open, a day early to be docked and wait for Fiona to pass. We are excited to get more time in Boston to explore! Day 46 - At Sea, Boston Pier, Massachusetts This morning, we woke up to a very similar weather pattern; the sun was blessing us with its presence again. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The morning was spent cruising to Boston; we enjoyed a coffee and shared travel stories with John. John and Sandy love travelling, writing articles and sharing new bucket list trips and destinations with us. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We followed with lunch and enjoyed being surrounded by Boston's activity as we docked safely into the harbour. It seemed we were not the only ones; three other ships had sought shelter. Unfortunately, due to our last-minute arrival, our ship didn't receive clearance, so we all remained on the boat for the evening alongside the other docked ships. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Fortunately, the sun was still shining, and we could soak up some rays and say our farewells to our fellow passengers who had been with us since Vancouver and thank Laszlo, our Hotel Director, for all his efforts and for making everyone feel welcome. We will miss all the friendly faces and chats with everyone around the ship. We enjoyed a farewell dinner with our lovely friends from the UK, the polar molars, and our favourite travelling dentists. We followed this with a quick drink with our fellow pole-to-polers and enjoyed some tunes from the resident crew band. Day 47 - Boston, Massachusetts First time in Boston, we were up and hitting the pavement early; we only had until 4 pm, so we wanted to make the most of it. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We walked the half-hour from the pier into downtown. The weather was kind today, and she decided to break her pattern and keep the sun around. We had a list of shopping items, but after getting a coffee to go and a new SIM for the internet—thank you, AT&T—they were incredible, we decided to just get lost in a new city. It was bustling with tourists, and since it was the weekend, the locals were out enjoying the first weekend of fall; it was buzzing. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole After a few hours of strolling, we decided to do what we do best and how we get a taste of our new destinations: a lazy lunch! Thanks to Mickey for his Boston tip, a friend from the US we met in Ohrid last year , we headed to Little Italy in the North End. We settled on a gorgeous little family-owned Italian restaurant, Nando. The owners even played in the streets as they grew up and continued their family's legacy. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Our lovely waitress, Ortensa, was from Durres in Albania , so we loved reminiscing about our trip from 2020; she's so excited to meet us, too, as few are familiar with her hometown; When he was 18, she won the green card lottery and has been in Boston for the last few years. After the most delicious Italian meal, it was time to return to the ship; we were on time. Upon arriving back, there are just the 20 Pole to Pole passengers and the crew, so we feel like we have the ship to ourselves; it's pretty surreal. As the sunset approached, we enjoyed the sail away with Boston as a background and pockets of scenery. Boston has a great vibe and friendly, genuine people. The expedition team scheduled a quick catch-up with the 20 of us to update us on the new hurricane for Tampa. At the same time, we hope to be in Miami, so the Captain is trying to cover as much ground as possible in the next five days. Hence, we arrive on time and safely before our next segment commences, and a new batch of passengers joins us. It was an exhilarating end to the evening as we sailed through the Cape Cod Canal in the dark at about 10.30 pm. Fortunately, we checked the ship's location on the Marine Traffic app and raced up to Deck 11 - Forward to ensure we didn't miss out and capture some great videos. It felt like a 20-minute river cruise, and it was thrilling to go under the low bridges and listen to all the locals fishing by the waterside in the middle of the night. Close your eyes 🥺👀😮‍💨 Cruising down a narrow river and just scraping through under the bridges. Our Captain, of course, knew we would make it all along! The first video goes under the Bourne Bridge , and the second is the Cape Cod Canal Railway Bridge . HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Afterwards, we realised that the expedition team had updated us all this afternoon; unfortunately, we were two minutes late and missed the first two slides. We must refresh our German, and we would have caught this in the second session. Sailing through the Cape Cod Canal was one of the highlights of the cruise to date. Day 48 - At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean It feels like we are on our very own super (super) yacht, with the 20 of us Pole to Polers scattered around the ship, sharing it with the beautiful Hurtigruten crew. We stumble across each other during meal times. This morning, we enjoyed breakfast; we were up early, hoping to catch a glimpse of New York, but we headed deeper into the ocean as we approached Long Island. We spent the morning catching up online, and the Explorer Lounge was to ourselves. It was incredibly peaceful, and we felt a little spoiled by all the space. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole After lunch, we caught a few rays; it's time to start working on our ghostly white legs as we transition from winter to summer and continue south. The bridge was open for a few hours this afternoon; we wandered down to say hello, thank the team for keeping us safe, and enjoy the state-of-the-art equipment and views. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We were also briefed on the upcoming few days and how we will approach and navigate the hurricane to remain safe and hopefully have no disruptions to our next embarkation day in Miami on Thursday. We also spotted a few of the new plaques presented to Roald Amundsen for the maiden calls into some of our recent ports. It was also the ship's first visit to Halifax and Boston. The weather is the boss right now; the latest hurricane/tropical storm is forecast to meet us the same day in Miami, but as we creep closer, we will be near enough to work with it and hopefully have an open window once it has safely passed Miami. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Judit, our lovely new hotel director, also offered to tour the ship's suites; seeing how the other half lived was excellent. The suites are very spaciou s and beautiful. We are thrilled with our cabin ( Expedition suite - with balcony ), especially in midship on those rocky days, such as today, deep in the North Atlantic. It was also great to come across a suite named in honour of Leopold McClintock , our dear friend Bill's cousin; we shared the good news with Bill. This evening, we were all treated to a Filipino buffet in Lindstrom. It was great to experience new cuisine, and although we have visited the Philippines many times, we realised we had never really explored the food. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We love that Hurtigruten's crew is all Filipino; not only do they all provide exceptional customer service and are a delight to be around, but after committing so much of their time to work, everyone needs to connect outside of work. It provides a sense of home, and as a bonus, the chefs can cook up a storm of their local delights when they feel a little homesick. A special thank you to our dear Rosalie for spoiling us this evening at dinner, bringing us samples of the delicious food so we could stay grounded (and we have no self-control, so we might have overindulged), as we were feeling a little fragile with the rocky movement of the ship. You are the best! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We went to bed early this evening because the ship was in a rock'n'roll mood, and we found we could best deal with this horizontally in the heavenly beds in the suites. Day 49 - At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean As we continue making our way to Miami, we are making good time and should be there ahead of schedule to wait out 'Hurricane Ian' in the nearby waters. We are prepared to dock on Thursday morning for the next embarkation day. We took advantage of another day at sea to catch up on work , prepare our week seven travel blog, and sample the delicious cookies the crew have as treats in the Explorer Lounge. We took the opportunity to spend more time with Judit to discuss sustainability, as this is core to Hurtigruten Expeditions' values, and they take sustainability seriously. Judit is our lovely new Hotel Director. Don't worry, Laszlo; we still miss you! The MS Roald Amundsen (RA) is a cutting-edge ship design with advanced battery technology; it is the world's first hybrid-powered expedition ship. Hurtigruten is a company that strongly opposes heavy fuel oil and the war on plastics. Beach clean-ups and plant-based menus made from locally sourced ingredients are two other ways they give back to the areas we visit and the planet. The world's first Hybrid Powered ship , what does that tangibly mean? Those who have cruised before know that each morning, the cabins at the rear are covered in a fine (or heavy) layer of soot from the diesel engines, depending on the ship's age. This is not the case with Hurtigruten, as they run a hybrid technology; emissions are cut by sailing with electrical propulsion. Innovative sustainable technology reduces the ship's fuel consumption and CO2 emissions by 20 per cent. We love that there are no plastic bottles. All guests on an expedition cruise receive a complimentary high-quality reusable bottle for use at water refill stations around the ship. This simple act saves at least 1,000 plastic bottles a day. The portion sizes during meals are significant to Hurtigruten, as the right amount of food on passengers' plates minimises wastage; there have been comments regarding the meals being often too small, but of course, the team is very flexible for those who wish to fill their bellies more. You need to ask. It is better to serve less and waste less than to oversize and destroy more. They are earnest about food management waste programs on all the ships, aiming to reduce food waste by at least 30%. Hurtigruten is committed to the UN's Sustainable Development Goals, which are the blueprint for achieving a better and more sustainable future for all. These goals are also a guiding principle for B1G1 (the global giving movement) , which we support by giving back to those who need a helping hand. We love that we have chosen a company aligned with our business and personal values . It was great to learn more about Hurtigruten's sustainability programs , how they source their food locally, and how the destinations they get their provisions from love working with the RA, the world's first hybrid-powered expedition ship. Not only does the company Hurtigruten, but its passengers also have the same mindset, so they can create valuable relationships with providers with the same values and continue to make the world a better place. In the evening, we were back in Lindstrom for dinner ; Cesar put on the pre-dinner solo entertainment. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole This evening's dinner was a buffet with prime rib beef and vegetables; we were all excited about the baked potatoes, which were a treat. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole A beautiful sunset and skyline followed dinner, and smooth seas were upon us this evening . As we neared Miami, we checked our new weather app, Windy.com (we are slightly becoming addicted to this app), for the weather forecast. Join us for 'week eight', where we hope to have navigated safely away from Hurricane Fiona and Hurricane Ian and arrive in Miami and Belize safely for a new and exciting adventure towards the Panama Canal.

The Northwest Passage - In the Wake of the Great Explorers - Alaska, Canada, Greenland Week five on our 13-week bucket list, Pole to Pole cruise on the luxury hybrid expedition ship MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions . Day 29 - Beechey Island, Nunavut, Canada Today was magical! We had a natural landing on Beechey Island, an uninhabited island of Arctic wilderness. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The weather was on our side, no polar bears were around, and the polar plunge was happening! We were so excited that we were geared up first thing and on our Zodiacs as soon as our group was called. Beechey Island is best known for containing the graves of three Franklin expedition members, first discovered in 1850. It was about 1 degree, so we layered up to explore the island for one hour. We got some steps up, took in the magnificent views, and captured some lovely pics. We saw a geocache site with some time capsules just off a stone beach full of pebbles like polished gemstones, and the most spectacular coastline views with sparkling turquoise waters. Next was the "Polar Plunge", where we could swim in the ocean! Wayne wouldn't miss out; he was out of his layers in a heartbeat to have a refreshing (and cold) swim. He was fearless, with just a little swearing to get him through! Another item ticked off the bucket list. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole After lunch, the ship continued until we arrived at a wildlife hotspot, where we saw our first belugas, hundreds of seals, and more birds and spotted about six polar bears! It was an incredible day of wildlife! The Captain stationed us in Radstock Bay on Devon Island for a few hours, which was a sensory overload. Pods of seals surrounded the ship, and the beautiful white belugas constantly shimmered against the coastline. About six polar bears followed. One was swimming, hunting for food, and a mama bear took her little ones up the mountain. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Fun fact: To remain healthy, polar bears must eat one seal every five days It was a beautiful afternoon of wildlife moments; we were all in awe! We were blessed to enjoy ourselves from our balcony, and we're grateful for our binoculars, as the naked eye wasn't quite good enough, nor was the camera (iPhone) to capture the pictures. All passengers with great lenses on their cameras will have captured magical snaps this afternoon. We had dinner in Aune this evening, as the roast lamb always gets us! It was another delicious meal with ever-attentive service from our King Richard and Armani. A special thank you to Nenad (our Serbian friend), who runs a very efficient and energetic team. We always feel very spoilt by the warm welcome from the entire team. As the evening progressed, we sailed past a couple of vivid blue icebergs, followed by another sunset and the surprise delivery of the Polar Plunge certificate. This week, we have been spoiled with sunsets! Day 30 - Croker Bay & Dundas Harbour, Devon Island, Nunavut, Canada This morning, the sun was beaming across the scattered sea ice as we opened our curtains; with a snow-covered island as a backdrop, we were sailing past Devon Island, which is 75% permanently covered in ice. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We attempted to land at Dundas Harbour, but the sea had other ideas. The Captain continued to Croker Bay for a bonus glacier viewing, as it was a pocket of calmness for the morning. This was our northernmost point yet in the Arctic Circle. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Morning coffee was on the balcony, with the most mesmerising views of the glaciers as we navigated through the sea ice. It was a beautiful morning, and we enjoyed the best of nature. Soon, it was time for lunch after a few hours of blogging and publishing our four-week adventures . We landed a window table for our arrival into Dundas Harbour, an abandoned old settlement. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole You couldn't beat this morning, but the Captain topped it! He was busy navigating us through all the sea ice to find a cosy spot to park for the afternoon nature landings. The ship busily thrust all the sea ice from its path to clear our entry to the landing spot. Watching and being amidst all this ice and beautiful terrain. was thrilling The Zodiacs were released, and the expedition crew were off to scout the island for polar bears; they arrived back with good news, and the excursions were approved! They saw a couple of bears on neighbouring islands but stationed a few crew on the watch-out points with their rifles should the need arise to scare them away. Our group was second last today, so we had a few hours to wait until we were called. Once geared up with quite a few layers, even though the sun was still sharing its warmth over the ship, it was still very fresh, about 1 degree, and the wind was creeping in. Just as we were about to make our way to Deck 3 to embark on our nature landing, the sad news came over the PA that all future excursions were cancelled. The wind was getting more robust, and the boats struggled to pick up from the island due to the sea ice filling the landing spots. We were disappointed but understood that safety comes first. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Back in the room, we removed all our layers. We compensated with a few mojitos before dinner, chatting with our new shipboard friends to hear stories of their landing and enjoying the beautiful views as we made our way to Baffin Bay. As we were heading to dinner, we were all advised, 'One hand for you, one hand for the ship' as the ocean started showing us who was boss and was around for the evening. We all got through the evening with a gentle sway and were rocked to sleep. Day 30 - At Sea, Eclipse Sound & Baffin Bay - In honour of our Queen This morning, we woke, and the ship was very calm and steady, but upon opening the curtains, the sea was still having a bad day! The strong winds were still fighting with the sea, which we suspect might make our visit to Pond Inlet difficult today. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We were right; we arrived at lunchtime, and unfortunately, there was no anchor side and Zodiacs for a trip to explore. We quickly picked up a new ice pilot for our Greenland segment, returned our guest visitor, Roger, a local from Nunavut and continued on our way. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We navigated our way to Baffin Bay with misty views of surrounding mountain tops with a dusting of snow. Further along, we had sneak peeks of glaciers as we sailed out of the Northwest Passage for Greenland. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole During lunch, we all received an important announcement for our British passengers to confirm the sad news of the Queen's passing. This impacted all Commonwealth passengers, and we are Australians. In honour of our Queen, we celebrated her life and thanked her for dedicating her life to us all over a glass of Bollinger (by royal appointment). She will be missed, and it was a monumental moment. We spent the afternoon and evening with fellow passengers reminiscing about the Queen and sharing our gratitude for her reign, one of the longest-running monarchies in history. It gave us all a way of measuring the passage of time. It was a defining moment. This evening, we spent time in Lindstrom with our incredible team, who kept us smiling. We had some fun moments taking candid pics before we retired for the evening. Day 32 - At Sea, Baffin Bay, Canada We are on our way to Greenland! Today, we crossed Baffin Bay as we navigated our way to our new destination. The waters remained friendly all day. As we sailed, scattered icebergs floated around us in the near distance, for everyone's viewing pleasure. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We enjoyed lunch with our new ship friends, Robin and Lynn, and loved listening to their life stories. They are the travelling Arctic Dentist and nurse. They grasped every opportunity as they became young adults, and the doors that opened for them have taken them to fascinating places. The conversation was inspiring; now, they are visiting places they had once lived and visited over 30 years ago. The afternoon was spent recording a few video messages to our dear friends worldwide; we love checking in and sharing our experiences with everyone; the world is to be enjoyed by all. Dinner was another delicious affair, and we were again spoiled with a succulent piece of beef tenderloin prepared expertly by the chef and served with lots of smiles and laughter from the great team in Aune. We lost another hour this evening, so an early night for our impending arrival in Greenland; we can't wait! Day 33 - Ilulissat, Greenland, Denmark Where do I start? Today is the highlight of the Northwest Passage segment (still seven days to go). Yes, we have seen the Aurora; yes, we have had to do a u-turn in the middle of the night due to our path being blocked by an enormous ice pack; yes, we have seen polar bears and snuck in a polar plunge, to name a few, but arriving into Greenland and being up close and personal with an ice fjord tops the charts. Mother Nature, you are the best gift of all. Let's first celebrate our 55th country; Greenland is an island of the kingdom of Denmark, so Denmark is our 55th country. Ilulissat is the Kalaallisut word for "Icebergs". Ilulissat is home to almost as many sled dogs as people. It has a population of 4700 and is Greenland's third-largest city and most popular tourist destination. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Let's quickly summarise the day: as we cruise into Ilulissat , we are surrounded by enormous icebergs we have not seen yet; we are welcomed by two massive whales breaching as we approach the shoreline, or better yet, the ice line. The village is wrapped in an ice fjord; we jump on the first tender boat to make our way to the fjord (a short 30-minute walk from town); we are treated to a dog sled practice as we walk through the fields where the dogs are housed. Thank you, Arctic Living Ilulissat , for this enlightening experience on sled dogs. We were fortunate to see the dog sled practice and the level of excitement with all the beautiful dogs. We love how you put the dogs first, your high level of nourishment and care, your preservation of the Greenlandic dog sled culture, and your passion and love for this tradition. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The fjords then rendered us speechless as we reached the top of the hill. We hiked through the breathtaking and colourful natural flora to the actual fjord to experience this magical moment for the first time. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole It was very picturesque, and we took many pictures to capture this incredible landscape and moment. Ilulissat Icefjord is 66 km wide and 555 km long and is a UNESCO natural world heritage site. The fjord is a collection of icebergs that have calved from the Sermeq Kujalleq glacier, the fastest and most active glacier in the world, one by one, with a speed of 40 metres per day. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We followed this with a visit to the Icefjord Centre . It was incredible architecture with minimal impact and nicely blended with its surroundings, using only steel and wood to construct over two years. It only opened 11 months ago. It was imposing and a great way to learn about the life stages of ice, from a drop of rain to snowflakes, calving, drifting and melting! A friendly chap who worked there joined us for coffee and shared his stories about Ilulissat and the dramatic changes they are experiencing due to climate change. Recently, the permafrost has been melting, and the houses are beginning to shift and become damaged, among other changes in the ice. Thirty years ago, it was much closer to go and touch; now, the drive has become much longer. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Global warming is evident in the Ilulissat Icefjord. The Greenlanders are thankful for the growing interest in an issue they live with and adapt to constantly. The area has been the site of extensive research undertaken for centuries and, as a result, is said to facilitate insight into climate change. We enjoyed listening to and hearing about the village and how tourism is doubling and becoming stronger each year from around the globe; it was a beautiful, charming community with excellent infrastructure, nestled among a seascape of ice. We captured a fantastic video of the dog sled practice and wanted to share it with the owners. Fortunately, being a small community, the lady from the Ice Fjord Centre shared our contact details. Her name was Anso, and we later shared the video with her. They loved it, and Anso told us how much the dogs loved the training; we could see how excited they were, too! What an experience! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We finished the day exploring the beautiful town, its bright-coloured homes, and its scenic views. The ship was joyous this evening as the crew and passengers digested the sensory overload we were all grateful to experience, thanks to Hurtigruten. Fun fact: Greenland is 80% covered in ice. It got its name from Erik the Red, an Icelandic murderer exiled to the island. He called it "Greenland," hoping the name would attract settlers. However, scientists say Greenland was quite green more than 2.5 million years ago. Day 34 - Sisimiut, Greenland, Denmark The ship received a wake-up call from the waters of Baffin Bay this morning around 2:30 am; it was 2:30 am to show us who was boss again. The pre-evening announcement should have been 'One hand for your partner, and one for the bed!' We had a sneak peek, and the waves showed off at about four meters. The ship is impressive in handling the wild sea; apart from a few bumps and creaks, she is very stable. Thank you to Captain Terje for keeping us safe and comfortable during these few and far-between times. We slept lightly to the morning, and upon opening the blinds, you could easily mistake the whitecaps for sea ice; this continued until lunch. Our arrival in Sisimiut was delayed about one hour due to weather conditions, but as we neared our new destination, we were protected, and the sea had a breather and let us dock at the pier. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Everyone was off exploring the lovely village in a heartbeat and standing on solid ground for a few hours to recalibrate the body. We opted for the walk-off self-guided tour and set out on foot to take in the colourful homes and beautiful nature views around town. Other excursions included hikes to a volcano and up the mountains, or a panoramic bus tour. Sisimiut means "the residents at the foxholes". The second largest city in Greenland and the largest Arctic city in North America, with a population of 5600, is also the fastest growing city in Greenland. It has been inhabited for the last 4,500 years. The population of modern Greenlanders is a mix of th e Inuit and Danish peoples, who first settled in the area in the 1720s. We first arrived at a lovely souvenir shop, which was also home to a litter of puppies; they had them on display for us to all say hello and have a cuddle. The lovely shop owner's daughter was sharing the dog mama's story with us, and we couldn't wait to stop in on the way back to make a purchase and support this lovely family. The whole ship was just as excited to find a souvenir shop, too; she flourished with business all day, making us smile. We continued walking around until we stumbled on a cosy brasserie restaurant. It was part of Hotel Sisimiut. We stopped for a coffee and a snack. It was so lovely that we stayed for a while and enjoyed the magical views. Chatting with the Thailand team and returning our basic Thai phrases after living in Koh Samui for three years was enjoyable. We must note that both Greenland destinations had impressive coffee! It was time to head back to the ship, so I detoured to uncover new sites. I came across a beautiful lake in the heart of town, stopped back at the lovely Greenland Memories Souvenir Shop, and made a cuddly purchase for the cabin. We welcomed 'Sami the Seal' to our family while supporting the children of Nepal in need with a portion of our purchase via Plan International. Sami feels at home already, and the crew enjoys his company, too. Golden hour was upon us, so we enjoyed snapping some snaps of the bright and colourful homes on our way back. However, we were cautious of the fast-paced traffic, unsure if they got extra points for tourists or were training to become race car drivers, so keep this in mind. Fun fact: Why are Greenland homes bright and colourful? In the 18th century, Greenland received timber kits from Scandinavia to build wooden houses. Only five colours were available, and each one had a special meaning. Nowadays, many of the colours are decorative. Red: churches, schools, teachers' or ministers' houses, and trade Yellow: hospitals, doctors, and health care personnel Green: power works, auto mechanics, teleoperations Blue: fish factories Black: Police stations This evening was roast lamb and Pavlova, always delicious, and we went to bed early before the moody sea was upon us again for the evening as we prepared for a sea day back towards Canada. Greenland, you were a treasure. Day 35 - At Sea, Labrador Sea, Greenland We woke to the morning update over the intercom at 9.15 am, welcoming the 9.15 amers. We were grateful to have slept through the night and felt refreshed, especially after hearing the waves averaged 5 metres throughout the night. The sea was much kinder this morning, and we expect the same for our arrival in Canada. Today's onboard activity was the bridge visit, which we are very excited about. As we have another two months on the ship, we thought we would give everyone extra space to enjoy it, as we will have another opportunity when it is quieter. Today was a distinct change in weather; the sun was shining, so we took advantage and enjoyed a glass of champagne in the sun on the pool deck, chatting and sharing laughter with our fellow Pole-to-Pole guests before dinner. Following dinner, tonight was a treat: Filet Mignon and Lemon Tart. We attended the Polar Molars session hosted by Robin, our Arctic Dentist friend, to hear his stories about practising in the 1980s in the Arctic. We finished week five with the most magical sunset, and we're now entering week six . Join us as we travel South to the East Coast of Canada and the United States. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole

From Halifax to Boston - History, Seafood and Nature Reserves - Canada, United States Week six on our 13-week bucket list, Pole to Pole cruise on the MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions . This week, a new cruise segment commences, and a changeover of passengers as we enter the Halifax to Boston leg. Day 36 - Sea Day, Labrador Sea Lazy day today at sea! We had a lovely, clean, and healthy steak and chicken lunch at Fredheim. The afternoon we spent blogging and launching week five of our adventures. In honour of Queen Elizabeth II, today's afternoon tea was scones, which was very thoughtful of the ship to provide a special moment to respect the Queen. A special mention goes to two remarkable and hardworking cabin stewards, Sharon and Francis. Their smiles and banter continue to bring smiles to our faces while they work tirelessly to ensure our suite is always immaculate. Day 37 - Red Bay, Newfoundland and Labrador We arrived back in Canada today. This morning, we woke to a foggy and misty day as we crept closer to Red Bay late in the afternoon. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The day was spent relaxing, having morning coffees and lunch, and enjoying the green landscapes as we approached our new destination. Wayne was a gem and cleaned our doors, and we had crystal-clear views. Hopefully, the sun will keep shining for a while now, and we are heading south. We anchored on the side at 3.30 pm. The Canadian customs were back onboard to clear the ship. After two days in Greenland, everything was approved. At about 4.45 pm, we were on the tender boat across to Red Bay. Tender trips take about 5 minutes to cross the water to the piers. When the team have all their ducks lined up, it can be very efficient and have little waiting time. The sun was shining, and it was a gorgeous day, about 14 degrees. The friendly locals warmly greeted us as we walked off the boat. They were an absolute delight and happy to see us all. We were given a little map with places of interest to visit and strolled around the beautiful, petite village. It was quaint, with a warm community vibe. It was very green, clear, and well-maintained, with lots of flora and a pocket of nature with stunning views. Red Bay is home to a few friendly Canadians, shy of 200. Red Bay is a fishing village in Labrador, notable as one of the most precious underwater archaeological sites in the Americas. It was a central Basque whaling area between 1530 and the early 17th century. As we walked, many flies and insects joined us, so to become prepared, our face masks were an advantage, as we could avoid dining on these little creatures. We all had a few hours to enjoy the outside world and loved basking in the views, local village sites, museums and history. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We were back on the ship for the evening to make our way to Corner Brook for the morning. After catching up with fellow passengers, the boat tour, as you come ashore with Whaler's Quest , was a huge hit. Be sure to look them up for an insightful cruise on the history of Red Bay, a taste of local beer, and hearing from the locals firsthand. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Day 38 - Corner Brook, Newfoundland and Labrador We woke to beautiful rainbows across the skies; the ship was buzzing as we had a full day in a city. It had been a while since we docked anywhere with a population of more than 5,000. So Corner Brook would be a perfect city to explore for the day and, after one month, on a ship to stock up on those everyday items running low. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Corner Brook is a city home to 30,000 people and the fifth most significant settlement in the province. It is also the last destination for about 350 passengers who will depart from Halifax after 27 days on the ship. They will be followed by a few hardworking crew who have been on the boat for six months now, so they are looking forward to a few months at home and a well-deserved rest. Our goal today in Corner Brook was to get a haircut; after 38 days, we looked shabby and needed a tidy-up. As soon as we arrived in town, our first goal was achieved. We enjoyed the city by exploring and enjoying the local vibe and community. Being from the tiny country towns of Moama and Elmore in Australia gave us vibes similar to those growing up. The homes were neatly maintained, with no fences, so it was a very neighbourly town. We also took advantage of having access to larger stores and stocked up on our day-to-day products, so we are now set for the next two months onboard. It was nice to sneak into a Chinese restaurant called Dragon Restaurant for lunch and enjoy a different cuisine after over one month on the ship. The starters worried us, but they made up for it with the main; the beef and black bean were fresh, with very tender meat, and Wayne was in his element with fried rice. Corner Brook is next to Captain Cook's trail and other magnificent lookout spots and scenery. A hikers' delight and excursions were available to those who wanted to explore nature. Once back onboard the ship, we were treated to a local trio performance by The Sharecroppers; we enjoyed listening to their beautiful stories of life and the history of Newfoundland through songs. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole One of the songs they sang was about a "one-room school," which brought back memories of my primary school in Elmore, which had four classrooms, now has 26 enrolled students, and was established in 1875. Another song was a tribute to the Dr of the North, who introduced hospitals to Newfoundland Fun facts: Doctor of the North 'Grenfell' answers the people's prayers in the North. In 1892, the only way to access all the villages was by water, so a travelling hospital ship was bor n , and the Doctor of the North's healing hands could reach those who needed them most. Mummering or mumming is still a tradition in Newfoundland. Everyone dresses up in disguise to keep their neighbours guessing as they knock on doors at Christmas time. If the mummers are welcomed, they perform a dance, music, jokes, or recitations. Before offering them food or drink, the hosts must guess the mummers' identities. Day 39 - At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean It is the last day for our passengers, apart from 56 (36 of the 56 passengers are leaving in Boston, as there are only 20 pole-to-pole guests). It was a winding-down day at sea. She was a bit edgy today as we ventured from the Gulf of St Lawrence into the Atlantic Ocean, but she was very enjoyable. We enjoyed our sea days. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole There are lots of farewells and chats with fellow guests leaving us; we always enjoy hearing everyone's stories and their future adventures. A special thank you to our fellow suite guests who could not finish their special anniversary cake; it was a very delicious surprise when we returned to our cabin for the evening! This evening, the Captain's farewell was held, and the video produced by the resident photographer, Oscar, was shared; it was great to reflect on the moments of the past 23 days. We sailed some waters at 5,500 nautical miles and covered many new destinations! Magical! Day 40 - Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada Our early arrival in Halifax today was a new beginning for many excited new passengers embarking on a seven-day cruise. We were even up early enough to capture a picture of the sunrise! I'm super proud of us! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We bid farewell to our fellow passengers who had sailed the Northwest Passage with us over the past 23 days and our lovely crew, Belindah and Nenad. We will miss seeing them both around the ship, but we are excited they have a few months off. We were up bright and early to explore Halifax, the capital of Nova Scotia and a city of over 400,000 people. Our first impressions were full of excitement as we disembarked our home, the Roald Amundsen, for the day to become lost in a city; we always loved a vibrant city, and Halifax did not disappoint. It cuddles the coast and has a beautiful waterfront with a 3km boardwalk on the harbour esplanade, where you can stroll along and feel part of the city. Infectious young energy filtered through the city as you immersed yourself. It was well balanced, not too intense, but with a steady flow of locals and tourists—a popular education hub for students with several universities in the city. Many city events were scattered around the city, keeping everyone busy and entertained for the weekend. We came across a farmers' market and a local craft beer festival; they also have a maritime museum on the harbourfront with a large Titanic exhibit. Sneaking in a few cocktails and some new cuisine, Spanish food today. We enjoyed watching the people go by while we soaked up the sunshine. Canada is still training hard for the gold medal in the most expensive country, at CAD 150 for a cheap and cheerful meal and a few cocktails, plus your 18% tip. We returned to the ship during the afternoon; it was buzzing with new energy. As we sailed to Boston, the new passengers had embarked and were familiarising themselves with their new home for the next seven days. The demographic has changed; we see many more from the States, and the average age is under 60. We left at 6 p.m. and enjoyed our first sail away on the pool deck. The sun joined us as Halifax bid us farewell in the distance. We love the change of weather back around 20; after the past four weeks of being in 1-5 degree destinations, it feels like a new cruise! Day 41 - Sable Island, Nova Scotia, Canada Sable Island was always going to be an attempted landing; unfortunately, the large swells made it unsafe to take the passengers across in the Zodiacs. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The captain decided to circumnavigate the Island, and everyone enjoyed the new view and beautiful island landscape. We were blessed to have the sunshine sail with us and binoculars to catch a glimpse of the horses and seals (apologies for the poor imaging, but the phone wasn't good enough to capture the moments). The first picture below shows an unidentified object; could it be a fin or a buoy? Morning coffees on the balcony were a relaxing start to the day. Sable Island sits far out in the North Atlantic, a 42km isolated and decorated coastline with over 400,000 grey seals and 500 wild horses. Sand and grass were the landscape, and the Island was surrounded by beautiful, clean sandy beaches. It is a life undisturbed; it was fascinating and must be a researcher's heaven, understanding how the horses can survive on the Island for so many years without assistance and be self-sufficient and healthy. Horses were introduced in 1760 ; surprisingly, each horse has a name. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Fun facts: Sable (French: "sand") Island is inhabited by only a few families and a few hundred wild ponies Since 1583, there have been over 350 recorded shipwrecks on Sable Island. Tiny remains of the shipwrecked on the Island : a shoe buckle, a few coins, ship name boards, timbers buried in the sand. It's the ideal winter home for the world's biggest breeding colony of grey seals . In 1960, only 8,000 i n the southern Gulf of St. Lawrence. More than 400,000 seals come to Sable's beaches during winter to pup and breed. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Captains welcomed us this evening, and we met some new fellow passengers whom we have been chatting with via Facebook. It was nice to put a friendly face to the names. Thank you, Kim and Jill. I caught up with the lovely Laszlo this evening. We will miss our daily chats when he leaves us in Boston, but he also needs his family time and a well-deserved break from us all. He was followed by dinner in Lindstrom, our first time sampling the vegetarian free-flow mince ravioli. It was so good that Wayne had a second serving; it was like he needed more food!! Day 42 - Lunenburg, Nova Scotia, Canada Today, we arrived in 'Lunenburg', a postcard waterside fishing village. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Lunenburg is a port town on the South Shore of Nova Scotia, Canada. It was founded in 1753 and was one of the first British attempts to settle Protestants in Nova Scotia. It is home to just shy of 2400 people. Think Dawson's Creek for those of the era or Chesapeake Shores ; this town is perfection. Everywhere you looked, you felt a sensory delight . The homes were immaculate, the architecture stunning, and you felt  an  instant  sense  of calm. You just wanted to settle on the balcony of one of the charming homes with a glass of red and enjoy the majestic views. The streets were sprinkled with beautifully maintained stores, and the area was indeed filled with historic charm. We loved the vibrant colours of the stores, and the people were a ray of sunshine . It has a warm and buzzing community and is well-visited by tourists. It is a coastal town on sparkling blue waters, with sailboats floating offshore. Lunenburg is also the proud home of the Bluenose, once the world's fastest racing schooner. Built in 1921, it was undefeated for 17 years. A national icon, it also appears on the Canadian dime. We loved getting lost in this small town and felt at home as we took in the views , crystal-clear waters, and shoreside homes. This is the place you have been searching for your whole life, and want to settle and stay to enjoy. We only had a few hours to appreciate the beauty, but it will  be at the top of our list if we return to Nova Scotia and say hello to Jake , the magnificent Belgian horse, again. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Fun facts: Lunenburg's most noticeable vernacular building element is the " Lunenburg Bump ", an enlarged dormer extended out over the five-sided or rectangular eaves. Most are situated in the centre of the front façade over the entrance, which may be in an attached storm porch . In 1995, UNESCO designated it a World Heritage Site . UNESCO considers the site the best example of a planned British colonial settlement in North America, as it retains its original layout and appearance of the 1800s, including local wooden vernacular architecture. UNESCO considers the town to need protection because the future of its traditional economic underpinnings, the Atlantic fishery, is now very uncertain.

The Northwest Passage - In the Wake of the Great Explorers - Alaska, Canada, Greenland Week four on our 13-week bucket list Pole to Pole cruise on the luxury hybrid expedition ship MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions . Day 22 - At Sea, Beaufort Sea, Canada Let's talk about the dining scene on the MS Roald Amundsen. You have three restaurants to choose from for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Soft drinks, beer, house wine (premium at an additional cost) and coffee/tea are included in your meals in each restaurant. Each restaurant is elegantly designed, with floor-to-ceiling windows for beautiful cruising viewing. Lindstrom Restaurant - Located on Deck 9 and available to suite guests for all three meals, open from 7–9 am, 12–2 pm and 6–9 pm. The menu changes almost daily for lunch and dinner; some days, it remains the same, but no more than two days in a row. Think fine dining and very high-quality cuisine and service (which is outstanding in each restaurant). Non-suite guests can experience Lindstrom for dinner at an additional cost of € 25 each. Aune Restaurant - Located on Deck 6 and available for all guests for three meals daily, the times are the same as Lindstrom. Breakfast and lunch are buffet style, and dinner is a la carte, except maybe once per week when they have a buffet evening. We have dined in Aune several times over the past few weeks and recommend the a la carte evenings. The daily menu for each restaurant is published each morning in the app, so you can easily decide which restaurant you wish to dine in during the evening. Fredheim Restaurant - Located on Deck 6 and available for all guests to dine in for three meals a day, and takeaway options are available. Dining hours are extended; you can dine from 12 pm - 9 pm. The menu stays the same with your classics, pasta of the day, hamburgers, hotdogs, fish, chicken, steak with vegetables, a new weekly Mexican dish, and other dishes. Day 23 - Ulukhaktok, Northwest Territories, Canada Long gone are the early risers! We have been making up for years of lost sleep on this cruise and rising at least from 10 am daily. We make it for morning coffee and then straight to lunch! Just after lunch today, we arrived in a tiny community called Ulukhaktok in the Northwest Territories of Canada. Home to a couple of hundred locals. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Everyone was eager to get on our Zodiacs for the landing. Once onshore, we were greeted by the local indigenous to take us around their village. It was eye-opening to a different way of life. The homes were primary but were shelters. The locals dressed in coats enhanced with animal fur on the cuffs and neckline. There were approximately three grocery stores (surprising to see the volume of processed foods/sweets with very little fresh produce), where a couple of flights arrived weekly to stock up and another to deliver gas. Their primary means of transport was by foot or four-wheelers—primarily hunters and gatherers (berries), tiny else to keep them busy. We were given four hours to explore, but after 90 minutes, we were ready to return to the ship. The village had the opportunity to put on their arts/craft market when we arrived, but they scheduled this for later in the afternoon when most passengers were back on the ship! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Missed opportunity to have the passengers ready to shop; 400 passengers can quickly help fund the community for the next few months; maybe the government subsidy is more than enough. There was not much to see here and trim from the team as to why we visited; it felt like the community existed purely because of subsidies, as no one appeared to be very busy. You could question the carbon footprint, and seeing the rubbish scattered around the village was disappointing. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Today, we marked the 106th anniversary of Roald Amundsen's expedition to the South Pole. The Norwegian explorer after whom our ship is named was the first human to reach the South Pole. The ship celebrated with pre-dinner bubbles as we sailed through the Amundsen Gulf. We then finished the evening with a rare and beautiful sunset. Day 24 - Sea Day, Amundsen Gulf, Nunavut, Canada Today was a chilled sea day; we love these days! It's a great excuse to relax genuinely. We received our certificates for crossing the Arctic Circle and kept busy blogging to record all our extraordinary adventures and memories. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We enjoyed a beautiful dinner at Lindstrom and celebrated life with a lovely bottle of bubbles, followed by another magical sunset. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Day 25 - Cambridge Bay, Nunavut, Canada Last night, we slept with the curtains open to bring our body clocks back to normal, and we were up at 7 am! It's been a few weeks since we had breakfast, so we took advantage of the early morning and popped up to Lindstrom; surprisingly, it is hectic in the mornings, and we even had to queue! After breakfast, we were ready to Zodiac across to our new destination for the day, Cambridge Bay, a small community village of approx 1400. It is also the home to The Canadian High Arctic Research Station (CHARS), a world-class research facility that enhances research and analysis of Canada's North. We wandered around the village and learned about its short history, founded around 1940; we were even offered a sample of whale, a local delicacy, but we politely declined as we were uncomfortable with the offer. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole After two hours, we were back on the ship for lunch and a cheeky afternoon tea. For the first time in 25 days, we found 'cake time'. Every day for one hour, you are offered a selection of freshly baked cakes; the sponge was divine. We must learn to avoid 3 - 4 pm daily; otherwise, we will need a new wardrobe! This afternoon, the sun blessed us with its presence and warmth as we sailed away from Cambridge Bay to our next destination, Northern Canada. This evening, we were surprised by the sky's dancing lights. We finally saw our first Aurora with Hurtigruten Expeditions. Day 26 - Gjoa Haven, Nunavut, Canada Mother Nature has been the week's highlight, with the spectacular Aurora show in the sky we experienced last night. This afternoon, we arrived at Gjoa Haven at the heart of the Northwest Passage, where Roald Amundsen noted it as 'the finest little harbour in the world! Gjoa Haven is where the polar explorer Roald Amundsen stayed for two winters during his famed quest through the Northwest Passage. Once his ship was free from the ice, he continued his pursuit in 1905, successfully crossing the Northwest Passage. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Gjoa Haven is another small, lonely village in the Arctic Circle, with a local Inuit community of 1400. The permanent community was founded in 1927 after a trading post opened; by 1950, there were approximately 110. The last three landings have been underwhelming, and we wonder why they have been chosen. They don't seem to align with Hurtigruten's values of sustainability. We have also been quite disappointed with the pollution level (especially in Gjoa Haven). There was not much to see; the people appeared to have very little pride in their land, each village needed supplies, and the pricing for this one was quite a shock! CAD 43 for a frozen dessert, $20 for a frozen pizza, and $18 for 1 L of orange juice (not freshly squeezed). You would ask how the locals can afford these heavily processed foods with minimal employment opportunities or industries other than fishing or hunting. We chatted with a grocery store lady, who agreed that everything was expensive. We asked how they could afford them, and she confirmed that you needed to work. We suggested making the pizza from scratch would be much cheaper (and healthier). Her response was that this was much easier. We also noticed the 'We are hiring' sign as we entered the store; this has been a regular occurrence in all villages. We are starting to question these small hamlets' carbon footprint and sustainability. We were blessed with a gorgeous day. The sun was shining, so we enjoyed the weather to get our steps up as we navigated around the rubbish, dead birds, and fish as we strolled the coastline of the small village. After a few hours, we returned to the ship to enjoy another fabulous dinner and catch up with fellow passengers over drinks, hearing many stories. Day 27 - Sea Day, James Ross & Bellot Strait, Nunavut, Canada Today, we woke up to views of sea ice as we navigated our way to the Bellot Strait to embark on the Northwest Passage and Greenland. We had a sea day, and the fog lifted us to enjoy some new scenery, refreshing from the desolate and bare coastlines of the past few days. This morning, Captain Terje updated the ship on navigating us through the Northwest Passage. It was very insightful regarding the ice, weather, permits, and approvals for making the trip. He is also very considerate of the waters; we loved how this is very important to him. For example, he will anchor the ship further from the shore if he thinks the boat is causing disturbance to the sea floor due to the bow thrusters. He also loves that the ship has DP (Dynamic Positioning) as it is much more friendly to the sea and does not cause any damage to the sea as opposed to anchors, which are also much more stable. This evening during dinner, we entered the Bellot Strait, the northernmost point of the Americas. It is accessible only during August/September to sail, as it is iced over during the other months. Bellot Strait is a passage in the Canadian Arctic and is very narrow. Captain Terje perfectly timed our sail through the stunning scenery during the golden hour of the evening. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The strait is named for Frenchman Joseph Bellot, one of the many adventurers who set out in the 1850s to search for Sir John Franklin's doomed Northwest Passage mission. The marine sediments of the canyon walls were very interesting; they were a mixture of three or four and constantly changing. We shared the sailing with another ship passing by. The passage had complex currents; they were strong in the strait, and many giant whirlpools surrounded us. Exiting Bellot Strait, we sailed past Fort Ross, an abandoned former trading post on Somerset Island. Founded in 1937, it was the last trading post established by the Hudson's Bay Company. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole This evening's sunset was magical; we have been blessed with clear skies and sunsets this week. Day 28 - Prince Leopold Island, Nunavut, Canada This morning, we woke at about 10 am. We have changed our clocks considerably in the past ten days, losing an hour each time. As we skip breakfast, it's no big deal, and we start the day with lunch and wine—no complaints! During lunch, we arrived at the spectacular Prince Leopold Island. We are all spellbound; it is beautiful! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The island is one of the most important seabird colonies in the Canadian Arctic, so seabird life is abundant. It is located in Lancaster Sound at Prince Regent Inlet and Barrow Strait. The natural landscape and cliffs of the island were over 1000m and had a natural sequence of limestone. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We were very excited today, as it was our first polar bear sighting; we saw four as we arrived at the island. It was a perfect lunch viewing while devouring another delicious pulled lamb lunch at Lindstrom! The bear sightings were announced over lunch, and all knives and forks were instantly placed down. Everyone raced to the windows on the port side to catch a glimpse. Fortunately, we had a window table for front-row seats. Binoculars were a must and provided a clear image of the bears running along the beach, catching their fish or birds for lunch; we ensured the lovely Lindstrom team and fellow passengers shared our binoculars so no one missed out on this beautiful moment. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We later learned from the expedition team that Canada has surveyed the island and has no oil prospects, which is positive news as this will protect the island's beauty. After lunch, we were all geared up for the 2 degrees and ready to head out on our Zodiac cruise. Unfortunately, the zodiacs and kayaking were cancelled due to passenger safety, as polar bears were nearby. They can run up to 40 km per hour, and the waters are rough; therefore, passenger safety comes first. Instead, we took advantage of the magnificent views and captured candid pics and moments. The ship sailed away later in the evening and into the night to continue our journey to Beechey Island, where we all prayed to the weather gods to be kind so we could enjoy a new landing for the morning. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole I look forward to seeing you all next week. Week five is beginning to be full of beautiful surprises, and we can't wait to share them.

The Northwest Passage - In the Wake of the Great Explorers - Alaska, Canada, Greenland Week three on our 13-week bucket list cruise to the North and South Poles on the luxury hybrid expedition ship Hurtigruten Expeditions - MS Roald Amundsen. This week, our friends from Vancouver disembarked in Nome, and 400 new faces joined us for the Northwest Passage expedition. Day 15 - Savoonga Island, Alaska Last night, we time-travelled; we crossed the international date line at 2:30 am for only a short while and then returned to the present while we were sleeping. The first time, we skipped the wine for lunch and decided to spend the day online, as today was the last day before we embarked on the Northwest Passage leg of the cruise. Unfortunately, we skipped the excursion to Savoonga (35 miles from Russia). Still, after hearing all the stories over dinner about the warm welcome from the locals and the rich history of the community, we reminded ourselves we wouldn't be doing this again! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The local economy consists mainly of subsistence hunting for walrus, seals, fish, and bowhead whales. The city calls itself the "Walrus Capital of the World". A dogsled mail service operated until 1963. During the evening, the Captain's farewell took place and Shaun, the Hurtigruten photographer, shared with us all the magical memories from the first leg of the cruise. Thank you, Shaun, for producing this extraordinary collection of moments. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We enjoyed dinner in Lindstrom, and the talented team put on a little show for the departing guests. We said our goodbyes to all the wonderful new friends we made over the past few weeks, followed by drinks in the lounge. Day 16 - Nome, Alaska Today was a big changeover day; 340 passengers disembarked, and over 440 new passengers embarked for the Northwest Passage leg of the cruise. We had the whole day in Nome, Alaska's most famous gold rush town. This little town was put on the map in 1899 due to the discovery of gold, of which $2m was discovered in that first year. It was full of super-friendly indigenous Alaskans, who would warmly greet and welcome you to Nome as you wandered around. Very authentic Alaskan architecture, some buildings over 100 years old. We had a little to-do list as this was one of our last ports before we crossed into the Arctic Circle and sailed for three weeks through the Northwest Passage, so we busily ticked this off; apart from haircuts, they will need to wait until Halifax, including lunch and a Hawaiian pizza (Yes, apologies to all our Italian nearest and dearest). We were back onboard during the afternoon and jumped online to complete any urgent tasks before our connection was weak. It was a busy night on the ship as all the new passengers navigated how it operates, and the restaurants were buzzing! Day 17 - Sea Day, Chukchi Sea, Alaska (Arctic Circle) Today at 4 pm, we crossed the Arctic Circle and were in for a surprise. As we travelled, we were all baptised by the Captain with icy cold water. In the Arctic Circle, they have a crossing ritual; fortunately, they skipped the Cod liver oil part of the ritual. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Wayne, of course, volunteered for us to go first! It was cold! But we were quickly offered a shot to warm ourselves up; it was lots of fun, especially watching all the reactions. Fog obscured our views of the Diomede Islands as we cruised past today, but the weather was one thing we couldn't control, so it made for a relaxing day. This evening, we had a pre-dinner drink while attending the Captain's welcome and introduction; many crew members also changed over in Nome, so we have many new faces onboard. All the new passengers have settled in, and the ship runs like a machine. Day 18 & 19 - Sea days, Bering Strait & Beaufort Sea, Alaska Lazy days cruising, preparing for our re-entry into Canada, submitting forms and the like and receiving safety briefings on the Arctic and kayaking procedures. On day 18, for dinner, we opted for Bison for the first time, which was delicious—it was milder than beef and very tender and tasty. The sun goes down around midnight here, so we enjoy very long days; fortunately, our suites have great blackout curtains, so you can easily sleep anytime, day or night. On Day 19, during our afternoon nap, we woke up to a view of sailing through sea ice, the largest we have experienced in Alaska. It was mindblowing, and the colours were magical! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole This was followed by a special invitation with the officers for drinks with all transit guests, 56 of us; karaoke and dancing were the entertainment. Thirty-six passengers embarked in Vancouver for the Northwest Passage and will disembark in Boston. The remaining 20 will continue to Antarctica and leave on 8th November. This evening, we had Roast lamb at Aune Restaurant. We opted for our favourite table and enjoyed the beautiful evening scenery of sea ice scattered all around us. At about 11 pm this evening, once we were tucked up in bed, we felt the ship come to a halt and stepped out onto the balcony. We were stopped due to ice blocking our path! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We couldn't miss seeing all the ice, so we got out of bed to go to the Observation deck on Level 11 to check it out! The Captain completed a 360-degree tour of the ship while we were up there and rerouted us for a more straightforward path forward. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Day 20 - Sea Day, Beaufort Sea, Alaska On another day at sea, we relaxed and ate! So, let's talk about ice. The distinction between 1st-year sea ice, 2nd-year, multiyear and old ice. First-year sea ice is thicker than young ice but has no more than one year of growth. In other words, ice grows in the fall and winter (after it has gone through the new ice – nilas – early ice stages and grows further) but does not survive the spring and summer months (it melts away). The thickness of this ice typically ranges from 0.3 m to 2 m. First-year ice may be further divided into thin (30 cm to 70 cm), medium (70 cm to 120 cm) and thick (>120 cm) Old sea ice is sea ice that has survived at least one melting season (i.e. one summer). For this reason, this ice is generally thicker than first-year sea ice. Old ice is commonly divided into two types: second-year ice, which has survived one melting season and multiyear ice, which has survived more than one. (In some sources, old ice is over two years old.) Multiyear ice is much more common in the Arctic than in the Antarctic because sea ice in the south drifts into warmer waters where it melts. In the Arctic, much of the sea ice is landlocked. Day 21 - Herschel Island, Yukon, Canada This morning, we crossed the US border to arrive in Canada; we anchored just off Herschel Island in the Yukon Territory. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Canadian Customs arrived after lunch, and they needed to fly into the island via a 90-minute flight and be boated across to clear the ship and passengers for our landing. Once we were cleared, we had a quick safety briefing from the local park rangers. They warned us that there was a grizzly on the beach last night (footprints below) but had since left the island, so we should all be safe. We all boated across in the Zodiacs and enjoyed the fresh air and a walk around the island after four days at sea. As we walked, we could follow the bear's footprints, which were also accompanied by red fox prints. For how long, we don't know. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Herschel Island is located in the Beaufort Sea, on the edge of Ivvavik National Park. The rangers resided on the island for six months. A few huts and outside toilets were scattered around, powered by solar, and regular supplies were flown in. For those of you who are history lovers, here is some light reading. There was a runway, which was how the customs officers arrived. We chatted with the pilot, who told us the runway was only 250m long, and we all enjoyed watching the plane take off. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole After about one hour, we were delivered back to the ship; exploring the little island and capturing some memorable moments was incredible.

Inside Passage, Bears and Aleutian Islands - Canada and Alaska. Our first week on our 13-week odyssey cruising to the North and South Poles on the hybrid expedition ship Hurtigruten - MS Roald Amundsen. The first segment is from Vancouver to Nome. Day Zero 'Embarkation Day' - Vancouver, Canada Embarkation day was a breeze; a quick COVID test and quickly into our suite after enjoying a glass of welcome champagne in the guest restaurant, Lindstrøm. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole This was the first time we had been in the same place for three months in two years. As you can imagine, we were very excited about entirely unpacking and setting our suite up for the next three months; it was our new home. After our safety drill, it was time to prepare for our first dinner in Lindstrøm. We spoiled ourselves with a special bottle of champagne to celebrate the beginning of three exciting months on the ship. The food was plated exquisitely and was delicious. We are very impressed with this ship, the dining and all the warm and friendly faces of the crew. Day One - Seymour Narrows, Canada Today was a sea day as we continued to cruise the Inside Passage towards Alaska. We enjoyed exploring the ship and just relaxing. The ocean was slightly rocky, so it was an experience by the pool. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We also received our expedition jackets, boots, and a surprise welcome gift to attach to our expedition gear. We were invited to a meet-and-greet with the Captain and Officers of the ship, along with meeting the other 20 Pole-to-Pole passengers with whom we will share this once-in-a-lifetime adventure. We were surprised to meet two other fellow Aussies in the group. We also love having a fellow Serbian, Nenad, travelling with us! We also have the ship to ourselves from Boston to Miami for five days, along with the crew, of course. Although the ship is only a few years old, we are incredibly impressed with its Nordic design and decor. The crew is warm and friendly, and the restaurants have been exceptional. Over the next three months, we will be spoiled for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Day Two - Misty Fjords, Alaska We woke up to the sun beaming through our suite; what a magical morning! After missing the first morning, we were excited to experience our first breakfast! Today, we cruised through Misty Fjords, and the landscapes were stunning all day! President Jimmy Carter proclaimed Misty Fjords a National Monument in 1978. The glacial valleys are 50 to 70 million years old. Wayne took advantage of the scenery and the sunshine and dipped in the ship's pool; the weather was 24 degrees! The ship anchored for the afternoon, and we were to experience our first Zodiac boat cruise. These boats fit up to 8 passengers and were a great way to explore our surroundings. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The Zodiac captains also shared local knowledge and stories of the surroundings. The ship has about ten little boats staffed by the knowledgeable expedition crew so that passengers can get up close and personal with nature and some hidden gems, including a 'God pocket' only accessible by a small boat! We were fortunate to touch a waterfall and cruise near a harbour seal. We loved it! We finished the day in the Lindstrom Restaurant (one of three restaurants) for a scenic dinner by the window as we cruised out of Misty Fjords. Day Three - Wrangell, Alaska We woke up to find ourselves docked in Wrangell, a classic Alaskan town home to 2000 people. We wandered across to explore on foot, enjoy morning coffee, and purchase a local SIM card. Wrangell has a charming and authentic vibe; everyone was full of smiles and waves, and all cars would stop to let you cross the road, no matter where you were! After lunch, we were on an excursion, back on a Zodiac with a local guide, this time with our boots as we had a landing included. We explored the nearby Deadman's Island and landed at Petroglyph Beach, where the low tide revealed 8,000-year-old rock carvings. We finished with a cruise through the local fishing port. I spotted an eagle's nest (which could easily fit four humans cross-legged playing cards), a bald eagle and a harbour seal; thanks to my wildlife spotting skills, I was the first to point them out—still searching for the bears and whales! Surprise, we returned to the ship for dinner and a magical sunset as we cruised to Sitka. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Day Four - Sitka, Alaska It's not all exploring! Today, we arrived in Sitka, where we had been for only a few weeks on our seven-day celebrity cruise. So, we took advantage of the empty ship and spent a few hours online. It's also a great time to get to know the crew as they wander past. Back in our restaurant for lunch, the food continues to be on another level! The conversations are generally about travel and sharing tips with fellow passengers who have travelled extensively worldwide and have so much to share. We met a lovely lady who spent time in '76 travelling the west coast of Africa in a truck, and then Iran and Afghanistan; the stories are thrilling! We receive a bag of laundry daily; today, it arrived all pressed and folded in a cute little box, and the shirts were neatly pressed. Very impressed! Over dinner, we experienced a slight swell, but it soon calmed down, and we went back to smooth sailing- nothing dramatic. We have been amazed by the ship and its stability so far. The evening finishes with another gorgeous dinner, and then we retire to our heavenly bed to turn in and be rocked to sleep. Day Five - Icy Bay, Alaska It was a very relaxed Saturday morning, with coffee and lunch as we cruised through the ice fields. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole In the afternoon, we were back on a Zodiac tour after we anchored neatly in Icy Bay, surrounded by glaciers. One hour cruising on the Zodiacs through Icy Bay, weaving through the ice, was quite the experience of being so close to the big ice carvings floating around us. As a result, the vivid blue colours, listening to the shards carving off from the nearby large glaciers, and feeling the waves were quite an experience. The fog was in and out, so we could catch glimpses of the glaciers and scenery we were engulfed in. We were fortunate to have many curious seals today; they were brave and would pop up very close to the boats. Wayne was excited to receive his piece of ice from the bay. He couldn't wait to return and add a chunk to his martini, back in the observation bar, for sail away! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Day Six - Seward, Alaska We love the early afternoon arrivals to our destinations, which is a very relaxed way to travel. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Today, we tried out a new restaurant on the ship called Fredheim. It has a daily menu of classics (chicken, salmon, and steak), hamburgers, tacos, and hotdogs. I am equally impressed with the floor-to-ceiling windows, which offer perfect views. The afternoon was for exploring, as we were docked in Seward just after lunch. We decided to walk (in the rain) instead of taking the shuttle to the Alaska SeaLife Centre, which was about 40 minutes, so that we could roam through the town on the way. It was a top-rated stop for campervans, as many were settled in the designated parks along the coast on the way. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The SeaLife Centre was quite remarkable. You could watch the sea lions, otters, and seals, and many fish species, including jellyfish, were on display while learning some fun facts. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The rain had decided to give us a break, so we explored the nearby old city by the centre, which had an authentic Alaskan vibe, and stopped at an actual Alaskan bar for a drink and to watch the locals play pool. I went back to the ship later in the afternoon for some blogging while we were in range before yet another dinner of fantastic food! Day Seven - Kodiak, Alaska We arrived early today, docked at 9 a.m., and were ready for our shuttle at 10 a.m. for a self-guided hike around Fort Abercrombie State Historic Park. Thanks to a crew member, we now describe it as fifty shades of green! The pictures will speak for themselves! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The park was stunning, with lush green moss covering the trees whilst the mist settled around us! As it had been raining, everything was sparkling and green! We were impressed with the well-built and maintained walking tracks that took us lakeside and to the coastline for stunning views. After a few hours, we headed back to the centre of Kodiak to explore the little Alaskan town. There was little to see, but we visited a lovely Orthodox Church and a local brewery. Just after lunch, we popped in for a cleansing cocktail. A Kodiak Mule (a local version of a Moscow mule, including a honey splash) was on tap. We then strolled back to the ship for lunch and a rest—cruises are the best for afternoon naps! We had an early dinner and a surprise glass of bubbly from our Serbian friend Nenad, followed by another delicious dinner, gorgeous views as we sailed away from Kodiak, and (another) dessert! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole

Scuba restaurant - Four Visits It took us two months to finally experience Scuba diving in Rovinj, which is very popular. We have now dined three times in the past week. Scuba restaurant - Rovinj It is situated in the Old Town, with glimpses of the sea and ample outdoor seating. If you time it well, you'll have a nice, quiet lunch without all the crowds, and the staff will be delightful. The wine list includes local wines, Apéritifs, and digestifs; try their grappa! There is an excellent selection of seafood and quality meat dishes, and one of the best steaks we have enjoyed here in Rovinj is cooked to perfection. Food and wine are great value for money. A favourite is the local cuisine dish, Beef Tagliata, which melts in your mouth!

For all our travel experiences and tips on accommodation, dining, and exploring Montenegro,  click here .

Sky View Restaurant - One visit As the name suggests, the Sky View restaurant on the top floor (take the lift to the top and then the last flight of stairs) has 360-degree views of Korce, including the beautiful mountain terrain. Sky View Restaurant - Korce The restaurant is modernly designed, and the service was excellent, recommending the best dishes of the day. Sky View Restaurant - Korce It has an excellent collection of wines, especially quality Italian wines. The food and wine are very affordable. The food was exceptional. There were huge portions, and it was one of the best pizzas we had in Albania. It was so fresh and had a thin crust. We opted for meat for the mains, and it was definitely an experience. However, be careful of your eyebrows. Sky View Restaurant - Korce The food was very high quality, as we have come to enjoy in Albania, and Sky View didn't disappoint.

For all our travel experiences, tips on accommodation, dining and experiences exploring Albania, click here .