Lizaz Bodrum - Two visits Lizaz Bodrum transports you to another world. It is a modern, authentic Lebanese restaurant in the heart of the pedestrian zone in the centre of Bodrum. Lizaz - Bodrum From the moment you walk past the well-stocked bar and the infectious energy of the team (we'll come back to that soon), you've been greeted with simply an awe-inspiring view of the harbour with a gentle catamaran swaying against their moorings (just out of our reach). Lizaz - Bodrum You know you're in for a great eating experience when the restaurant is not trying to pull you in from the street; instead, letting the food and service speak for themselves. The guys are all genuine, full of the biggest smiles and energy. You can't wait to sit and enjoy a long lazy lunch or dinner; let's say we were back twice on the same day. We've only experienced Lebanese food a few times, so this restaurant allowed us to jump headfirst into sharing what Lebanese dining is all about, and we loved it. Your taste buds will thank you for selecting this restaurant; sit back and be guided by the warm and friendly team. Lizaz would have become one of our go-to restaurants if we had more time in Bodrum. A small but solid wine list covering old and new world wines, and make sure you pace yourself so that you can explore the expansive and tasty cocktail menu. We enjoyed lunch so much that we were back in the evening. We sat at the bar and chatted with the team; new friendships were formed over tasty cocktails made with Pierre's love and passion. We walked past many restaurants that lacked warmth or soul, but this restaurant stands out for its approach to fitting into the surroundings. With magical harbour and castle views, the restaurant is the perfect size to provide a high level of service and give the chef time to prepare quality dishes. It has a cosy summery vibe with comfortable decor. You can also enjoy dining or drinking literally on the waterside. Lizaz - Bodrum Pricing was very reasonable and excellent value. There are no English menus, but a tip is to use Google Translate to take a snapshot of the menu; you don't want to miss out on all the fantastic dishes. Lizaz - Bodrum

Hotel Dva Bisera - Three visits We finally found a fine dining restaurant in Ohrid, Dva Bisera in Lagadin, ticking all the boxes. Hotel Dva Bisera - Lagadin The spectacular views are located ten minutes from Ohrid in Lagadin on Lake Ohrid. Very warm, friendly, and professional service, even during busy times. It's a hot spot for locals. The menu was packed with options for everyone, from traditional Macedonian cuisine, seafood, meat (every which way), pizza, and pasta. They are also well known for their fish stew (we missed out on trying this), so make your breakfast reservations. Hotel Dva Bisera - Lagadin During our three visits, we enjoyed fresh salads, soups, local starters, steak, schnitzels (beef is a must), and village meat cooked in a clay pot, which was mouthwatering. The restaurant has recently been refurbished. It has a great indoor/outdoor dining area, and you can also enjoy dining on the lakeside. The dessert menu offers excellent options, including delights from a Macedonian patisserie called ' Chocoholic '. We loved that Dva Bisera was only a short walk from our stay at Villa Bisera. We took advantage of being so close to a fine dining establishment, enjoying our lazy lunches with 5-star service and a premium selection of Macedonian wines and spirits.

In the final week of our 13-week Pole to Pole cruise on the MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions , we will experience the great white wonder of the world and our seventh continent—Antarctica. Day 85 - At Sea, Cape Horn & Drake Passage We started the day with the news we had been waiting for for over 85 days: we won the lottery for kayaking in Antarctica and were in Group A, which provided us with the highest chance to get out on the water should the weather permit. We were very fortunate, as most of the 400 passengers also had this activity. With only four landings scheduled, a maximum of two sessions per landing, and eight kayaks per session, you do the math. Crossing the Drake Passage takes about two days. Over the past few months, we have heard so many horror stories from fellow passengers who have experienced the Drake Shake that we were very fortunate to be blessed with the Drake Lake for our crossing. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole Yesterday, we were scheduled for a landing on Cape Horn. Unfortunately, the winds were too strong, resulting in a no-go, so we continued our path to the Antarctic Peninsula. When we first set out on this cruise, we were unaware that the chances of landing on the mainland of Antarctica were meagre, as we had booked a Pole-to-Pole cruise. As most are quick to let you know, our landings would be on the South Shetland Islands and the Antarctic Peninsula; claiming this is not Antarctica; therefore, you haven't visited Antarctica. Although we suggest otherwise, as we have come this far, the peninsula is part of visiting Antarctica in our book; it is part of the mainland. It's a little like you have seen Tasmania, and then you find out you haven't been to Australia, or you have been to Koh Samui, but have you been to Thailand? Yes, of course! Today was making the most of the ocean before the big arrival. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole Day 86 - Half Moon Island, South Shetland Islands, Antarctica Welcome to our final continent; all seven are now ticked off! This continent has always been on our bucket list, and finally, our dream of setting foot on the icy continent of Antarctica has been fulfilled. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole As the fog lifted this morning to present the majestic views, they were breathtaking, like nothing we have ever seen. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole Blessed to be joined by the sun and blue skies, we cruised closer to the first land we had seen over the past few days. The pictures were priceless and a great taster of what was to come. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole There is so much ice! The elevations were surprising; these mountains are enormous! We later learned Antarctica has the highest average height in the world. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole Our kayaking adventure was postponed due to the stronger winds, so we layered up for the landing on Half Moon Island. As we approached the island, we could see all the little penguins and spotted a few whales, so we were excited! Especially as it is usually too early in the season for whales. The landing took us to a place where we could get up close and personal with the penguins. There are two breeds: the main colony is made up of chinstraps, who come to breed (up to 15,000 eventually), and then the Gentoos, who come to hang out by the water. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole They were adorable and clumsy as they went to the sea to feed, constantly tripping over their little feet; you could sit by and watch them all day. We humans didn't seem to bother them, so they continued getting on with their day. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole It was cold, around zero, so thankfully, we layered up and enjoyed the hour on land. We were mesmerised by the natural wonder and adorable penguins surrounding us. As we were leaving, we sat with the penguins, just enjoying being near these birds full of character; overlooking the following for a giggle, the one on the left. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole We can't wait for the next few days to experience this majestic place on Earth. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole Day 87 - Wilhelmina Bay, Antarctica Today was fascinating; let's start in reverse! Heavy snow set in during dinner, and we scored a window table to ensure we could experience heavy snowfall while cruising. This was the first time we had been on a cruise and on the ocean with snow; it was surreal and beautiful, especially in Antarctica. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole It was heavy snow, and the snowflakes were the size of a cotton plant; it was what movies and picture books are made about. As dinner progressed, the deep blue ocean that engulfed us transitioned into a tinge of foggy grey; it was freezing over as the snow settled, and a thin layer of sea ice was beneath us. Let's jump back to the morning. It was an early start, as our Kayaking was scheduled; take two. We made sure to fill our bellies with fuel, and during breakfast, the news came that it was cancelled. The weather was changing rapidly, and snow was gracing us with her presence. We did enjoy the morning show, with the seals relaxing on the icebergs as we cruised by. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole The ship quickly changed its navigation from our original destination, Orne Harbour, to a new location, Wilhelmina Bay, where we could bring out the zodiacs and all get a chance for a scenic cruise through the sea ice and flows and be within inches of the icebergs. Before lunch, we explored the ship; seeing it covered in snowfall was a surreal experience. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole After lunch, we geared up. As the snow settled in, we loved popping back to our room to measure the snowfall. It felt like a winter wonderland with snow filling your balcony, a little like Christmas. We love it. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole Brendan was our host and Zodiac driver through the sea ice for one hour. He provided us with many insights on the icebergs and sea ice, and all about the nearby birdlife, as he expertly dodged and weaved through all the ice flows and icebergs with limited vision. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole Being part of the sea as it began to ice up was also fascinating. It has the same texture as a slushy; the water on the surface becomes a light shade of grey and is mushy. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole Great work, and thank you, Brendan, for keeping us safe. After being woken up on the water and showered with snow, we returned to the ship to bring our body temperature back to normal, prepare for dinner, and wait for the boat to unveil our next destination as we explore Antarctica. Unfortunately, the passengers who had booked the camping on the ice due to the weather were also cancelled. Day 88 - Neko Harbour, Antarctica Will we kayak in Antarctica? It is becoming a million-dollar question. It was another early morning for take 3 for us kayakers who were the fortunate ones in Group A (this means we were first to kayak before all other groups). It was 8.05 a.m., so it was time to pop into our cold suits; one leg in, the announcement popped up that it had been cancelled, and the wind was picking up. So close! HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole Fortunately, the zodiac was still on, and we happened to be in the first group of the day, so we dressed up for the cruising and went down to the expedition landing. We were first on the boats and were surprised to find it a little warmer than yesterday. It was much more civilised, with only light snow dust. We navigated the sea ice and enormous icebergs for sealife; penguins were the day's target. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole The icebergs glistened in the water as the sun peeked through the clouds. Just remember that the visible part of the iceberg is only 10-20% of its actual size, so most icebergs live underwater. We could see the entire length with the water pristine, and it was just wow! HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole On the way back to the ship, we came across a sensational raft of gentoo penguins. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole Forty-five minutes later, we were back on the ship. The weather was closing in, and the captain was concerned that the sea ice on the boat could ice us in the harbour, so it was time to pack up and move on. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole We made our way to Danco Bay, and a 4-hour Kayaking trip was scheduled, fingers crossed. The ship changed direction again, and a new destination was on the map until the wind blessed us with her presence, reaching up to 90 knots at one point. So, the ship maintained its position to keep us all comfortable and to wait out Mother Nature. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole Later in the evening, she cruised along Antarctica's majestic coastline, filling our senses with icy mountain peaks and wonders. We sailed into Damoy Point, a rocky headland on the west coast of Wiencke Island, and were even more delighted by the size of the glaciers. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole The ship decided to spend the evening in Antarctica because the weather conditions were good, and activities looked promising for tomorrow, our last day there. Let's go Kayaking! HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole Today was spent enjoying the changing weather and genuinely appreciating its perils. I was fortunate to sneak in a 'patchy video' call to Mum and Dad to share my experience of the world's wonders. Day 89 - Dorian Bay, Antarctica The million-dollar question has been answered, and we have hit the 'Kayaking in Antarctica' jackpot! 🛶 This morning, we woke early to calm waters and weather. It was five, and we were optimistic it would happen! HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole With our cold suits and straight to the meeting point, there was no wasted time. The sooner we were on the water, the sooner it became a reality. Fourteen of our fellow kayakers were on the same page, and everyone was ready. We were given the finishing touches to our Kayaking outfit, a unique life jacket, and gloves to keep us dry and hopefully warm. We piled into the zodiacs for a short five-minute cruise across to the waiting kayaks, and one by one, we were loaded into our kayak, two per kayak. Wayne was in the back, and I was seated up front as the head photographer. That's fine by me, as poor hubby would need to do all the paddling (which, after learning my rhythm, he much preferred to take control of). Before we embarked on this magical experience through sea ice, we had a quick practice and 101 on manoeuvring the kayak and, of course, staying above the water. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole This moment was one we had been waiting for. It has been nearly 90 days since we departed Vancouver, and we were hoping to kayak in the Arctic Circle; unfortunately, the weather continued to close the opportunities. The paddling commenced, and it was surreal. We were all lined up, navigating on the water's surface through large chunks of sea ice; the paddles driving their way through the ice chunks were eerily sounding, but surreal and peaceful. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole We arrived at the most magnificent turquoise iceberg to capture pictures up close and personal. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole Unbeknownst to us, this same iceberg would calve and start tipping over a few hours later, which we were fortunate to witness from our balcony - play with sound. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole We continued closer to Damoy Point, a research station home to a Gentoo penguin colony. The station was being prepared for the arrival of four female researchers to spend the summer in a few weeks, so we all floated amongst the sea ice and bergs to enjoy the serenity, overshadowed by dramatic icy mountain peaks, who would spend the summer there. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole We watched the penguins go about their day, swimming and diving, waddling, and even swimming beneath our kayaks in the crystal waters beneath us. It was one of those magical moments that will remain with you forever. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole After about 1.5 hours, we returned through the sea ice. We were all becoming familiar with paddling through (or, in my case, my darling hubby was); I was too busy trying to get my little fingers and toes to circulate again and keep the phone from going for a swim in below-zero waters. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole We approached the ship and were to wait for our zodiacs to pick us up and take us back to our cosy cabins; they were running a little behind, so we took the opportunity to row around the ship. It was magnificent to experience this impressive vessel from the exterior and at the water level; it was surreal. Once we reached the stern, we were shortly picked up and delivered back to the ship. Thank you to Molly and Orto from the Expedition team for a memorable kayaking experience in Antarctica; it was the perfect ending to our three months onboard. The afternoon was spent enjoying a lazy lunch, reviewing the incredible photos we captured, and celebrating ticking off another bucket list experience. Kudos to Hurtigruten Expeditions for being the first cruise ship to launch Kayaking in Antarctica this summer; we were the first group out on the water this season 👏 We were scheduled for a Zodiac landing later in the evening to walk through the snow and see another penguin colony, but we decided to opt out, as it was on the peninsula. We were all hoping it was on the mainland; therefore, we wanted to stay on our natural high from the morning; it was our perfect ending to Antarctica. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole Dinner was spent back in Lindstrom chatting with our new Aussie friends and enjoying drinks as we entered the Drake Passage. We kept our fingers crossed that it would bless us with a crossing of the 'Drake Lake', not the 'Drake Shake'. Day 90 - Drake Passage The Lake is slowly becoming the Shake! Therefore, it has been a slow day. We enjoyed lunch and a bottle of wine; the afternoon was spent hiding away in the suite to stay horizontal! We find it much easier on the body; the motion sickness creeps in as soon as you wander around. Fortunately, it takes quite a rocky ship now to upset us, and we know how to avoid it! Dinner was quick, and back to bed! One of those days! A little penguin love and kayaking highlights; I hope it gives you as much joy as it does me:-) HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole Day 91 - Drake Passage This marks our last day at sea for three months. Fortunately, the Drake was easing up as we approached land around noon. We enjoyed our last day over a lazy lunch at Fredheim, thanking the team and preparing to pack our cases and disembark for the morning. Before dinner, we enjoyed catching up with the Pole-to-Pole guests for the captain's farewell; drinks overflowed as everyone shared all the unused bottles of bubbles and shipboard credit, which you can't take with you. This was followed by a fun evening with a group of lovely Aussies we met on this segment; the crew entertained us with laughter. We were incredibly grateful to the lovely crew, who cared for us throughout the cruise; you all made our trip more delightful. Thank you, team; we will miss your friendly smiles and daily chats. HX Hurtigruten Expeditions Pole to Pole Beautiful moonlight glistened over the ocean as our next and final destination, Ushuaia, welcomed us. Thank you for travelling with us as we embarked three months ago on our 'once-in-a-lifetime' cruise from North to South Pole; we hope you enjoyed our travel moments as much as we enjoyed visiting parts of the world on our bucket list. Join us as we experience our next adventure, the ' Argentina Chapter ', a month-long exploration of a new part of the world.

Patagonia & Antarctica Ultimate Adventure - Southern Chile, Latin America In week 12 of our 13-week pole-to-pole cruise on the MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions, we cruise and explore the southern coast of Chile and experience the majestic Chilean fjords. Day 78 - Castro, Chile The dramatic change of scenery as we cruised the Chilean coast was a welcome gift. Chile has a coastline of 6500 km. The first week was spent cruising the Atacama desert, and now we feel we are in the Sound of Music with rolling, lush green meadows sprinkled with wildflowers. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We arrived in Castro this morning, a beautiful, picturesque town on Chiloé Island in Chile's Lake District. You have a familiar sense of New England, surrounded by rolling green hills. It is unique, especially with the colourful wooden stilt houses that line the waterfront. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Today, we opted for 'Sal & Wayne' style, bypassing all the excursions to get lost in a city and escape the crowds. It was a perfect city to explore on foot; the city centre was moments from the pier. We enjoyed exploring and hunting down a local cafe to experiment with the coffee. Unfortunately, the first cafe scored no points, but we were impressed with the second find, a local bakery. I continued exploring the city, catching a glimpse of the Church of San Francisco. Declared World Heritage by UNESCO in 2000, it is one of the city's most important historical buildings. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We stumbled on a viewpoint with a cascading view of the vividly coloured homes on stilts across the low tide, along with another smaller pocket on the other side of Castro. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole This set us up to enjoy the waterside walk and beautiful, unique homes; unfortunately, a fire struck six homes the year prior, and they were busy rebuilding the gorgeous homes. We popped in for a coffee along the way; a gorgeous new boutique hotel, Sizigia Hotel , was now occupying the space. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We followed coffee with lunch on the deck, which overlooked the nearby local restaurant, Sabores de mi Tierra . Settling in to enjoy the local Pisco Sours, you only needed a couple at this fabulous restaurant; let's say they were well balanced with the Pisco, definitely on the sour side, which was our preference. The food was excellent, the fish was the freshest, and the atmosphere was surrounded by friendly locals dining. The magical hills and fishermen, oh, and seabirds kept you entertained—a perfect afternoon. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole As we wandered back to the ship, we saw some of the beautiful and eclectic homes and architecture, and to finish the day, some danced on the pier. Castro is a perfect destination to slow life down. It is a very safe city, and you are spoiled with luxury boutique accommodation, high-quality dining, warm and friendly people, scenic views, and being on the doorstep of the Chilean Fjords. The late afternoon sail away was sensory overload as we cruised out of the rolling green hills, giving us a taste of what would come as we entered the magnificent Chilean Fjords. Day 79 - At Sea, South Pacific Ocean, Chile Enjoying the scenery and views as we approached the Chilean Fjords, the misty weather provided a beautiful backdrop. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Today was a great excuse to take the time to have one of those much-needed chill days; who doesn't love one of those? Especially when you have the scenery below as you enjoy a lazy lunch and dinner in Lindstrom. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Part of the day was also spent in the open ocean, so we experienced some rocky waters. It is always best to stay motionless to avoid seasickness. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Day 80 - Puerto Eden, Chile After navigating through the channels and fjords, our first destination in the Magallanes Region was Puerto Edén. It is a Chilean hamlet and minor port located on Wellington Island and considered one of Chile's most isolated inhabited places, together with Easter Island and Villa Las Estrellas. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Puerto Edén is hidden deep in the Chilean fjords, off the beaten path, with a tiny community of 170. We were on the first excursion, and the climate change reminded us that we were getting closer to Antarctica. The skies were open, which is very common in Puerto Edén. A resident guided us through the perimeter of the small village; they had a neat walkway from end to end with a few lookout spots as we strolled with the skies of Mother Nature, learning about village life. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole A bit further south, you will find Brüggen Glacier, the longest glacier in the southern hemisphere outside Antarctica. Unlike most glaciers, it has been growing. The afternoon was spent navigating the channels southbound for Patagonia. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The vast number of waterfalls as we cruised was a sensory overload. Never have we seen so many waterfalls cascading from the melting snow; they were scattered along the magnificent coastline as we exited this beautiful scenery. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Day 81 - Torres del Paine, Chile Welcome to Puerto Natales, a port city on the Señoret Channel in Chile's southern Patagonia. It is the gateway to the famous Torres del Paine National Park. As we opened the blinds this morning, we were surrounded by snow-capped mountains and couldn't wait to be whisked away on our full-day excursion. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The Pole to Polers was first up, and we were eagerly waiting as we headed to Torres del Paine, the UNESCO national park listed in 1978 and the 8th natural wonder in the world, to visit the Grey Glacier. It was about a two-hour drive to the entry, and we all enjoyed the magnificent scenery along the way and hearing all about the juicy details of the region from our very knowledgeable guide, Gabriela. Upon arriving in the park, we were transported about half an hour deep in preparation for our boat cruise across the lake to get up close and personal with the Grey Glacier. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We all settled in for a speedy lunch at the Grey Hotel, where the bar and restaurant overlook the glorious mountains and glaciers. Wayne and I even squeezed in a Pisco Sour on a mission to try as many as possible in Chile. They only improve as we go, especially when ordering sugar/syrup-free. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole After lunch, we were ready to embark on the glacier boat cruise, but Mother Nature had other plans. The winds picked up to 60km, and the snow started to fall, so Plan B was put in play; we were to jump back on the bus for a scenic ride around the park for the afternoon. Fortunately, the bus was comfortable and warm, and we enjoyed the views and a few lookout points. However, with the rapidly changing weather, it was difficult to do much more—microclimates on steroids in Torres del Paine. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We captured the scenery as best we could from the bus, and Wayne braved the strong winds, snow, and rain to find the lookout spots; he is a gem! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole As darkness settled in, it was time to head back to the ship, which was a few hours' drive away. On the way back, we sighted a few Guanacos, the native llamas, but unfortunately, no pumas. After a long day, we returned to the ship at about 8:30 p.m. to dine and rest quickly. The ship was portside overnight in Puerto Natales, so we looked forward to exploring the lovely town, Wayne and Sal's style, the following day and continuing our Pisco Sour tour. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Fun facts: 30000 islands amongst the channels and fjords in the south of Chile, 11000 have no names The Andes go for 8000km from Venezuela to Cape Horn, under the water and resurface in Antarctica Chile is known as the Pacific Ring of Fire. It is one of the countries with the most volcanoes on Earth, estimated at almost 2000. About 500 volcanoes are active, 60 of which have recorded eruptions in the last 450 years. The largest earthquake, with a magnitude of 9.5, was in Southern Chile. In 1960 , the most powerful earthquake recorded in history struck southern Chile. The rupture zone stretched from estimates ranging from 500 kilometres (311 miles) to almost 1,000 kilometres (621 miles) along the country's coast. Day 82 - Puerto Natales, Chile Today was one of those unplanned days that filled us with so much joy. First, Wayne and I just walked off the ship with a coffee shop named Nomad in mind, which we had to support because our dear friends from Belgrade also have a restaurant called Nomad. The coffee didn't disappoint; it was a lovely little cafe with warm energy and a local vibe. Now, we had coffee to kickstart the day, and we strolled around the beautiful city centre of Puerto Natales. It is immaculate and well-designed, and the town has a soul and is very inviting. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Just before lunch, we found a cosy restaurant bar called Wild Hostel. It had a very inviting wood-fired stove, a friendly resident dog, and a sofa for us to chill on and watch the world go by. The team was a delight; we were friends in minutes, and the owner was Finnish. (My mother is also Finnish.) HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We were joined by Pat and Bob, who wanted to participate in the fun, and soon after, Mary and Stephen. We enjoyed a few Pisco Sours and snacks while chatting about our lives. After three months of cruising together, we feel like family. Stephen grabbed the guitar nearby and entertained us with his hidden talents, which he had been hiding all over the ship for the past few months. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole It was a beautiful afternoon; we enjoyed listening to the owner's life story. It was an inspiring adventure to bring him to where he is today, owning a beautiful hostel with his lovely wife and now based amongst the snow-capped mountains in Patagonia. After we finished up at Wild, we dropped into another beautiful restaurant called Vinnhaus to sample their cocktails. Another Finnish owner greeted us with a warm welcome from the team. You were transported back to the 1920s; the decor was fabulous, and we found a hidden little nook to start our way through the cocktails. I have never seen a cocktail list that I loved so much. Luckily, we had a curfew! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The cocktails were impressive, and we enjoyed a few more hours onshore. We met the loveliest family from Chile, who were visiting from Santiago and chose this beautiful restaurant for their family dinner; meeting them all was a delight. We loved the atmosphere, ambience, cocktails, and staff, and we are trying our best to come back and stay for an extended period early next year; they also have a super cute hotel attached. Wayne and I will feel at home, and Puerto Natales is a perfect destination to enjoy at the tail end of Summer. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Surprisingly, we made it back to the ship via a tender boat as the Nansen (our sister ship, which is identical to us, apart from a 1cm difference in length) had snuck in while we were ashore and took our place in port so we all had the night just off the dock and enjoyed a peaceful night's sleep before we embarked on the journey to Antarctica. Day 83 & 84 - At Sea, Chilean Fjords & Beagle Channel , Chile I spent both days at sea, but with some magical highlights. We cruised through the White Narrows, an extremely narrow channel from Puerto Natales, to find our way through the Chilean Fjords. We all rushed to the Bow of the ship to witness the narrow passage; with a deep breath, we quickly squeezed through the tight path. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The scenery throughout the day was majestic, from waterfalls to glaciers to mountainscapes. The Chilean Fjords and channels are breathtaking. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We filled one afternoon with a birthday celebration. A fellow pole-to-pole, Stephe, was entering his 73rd year, so we all enjoyed champagne, wine, and tequila shots! It was a blast! The ship was also decorated for Halloween, and for those brave enough, there was a pumpkin smoothie treat. We also enjoyed our favourite pancake treat from Fredheim. Thank you, Chef! The last day of week 12 was spent navigating more majestic scenery as we departed the South of Chile and made our way through the Beagle Channel for clearance to Antarctica. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Puerto Williams was where the ship made a quick stop for clearance and entered the Drake Passage, also known as the 'Drake Shake'. We were all warned it would be rough, so pop your pills and tuck everything away. We were cautious and followed the advice, and we were surprised at how uneventful it was and that we slept through the night! Thank you, Mother Nature. Join us for the grand finale, 'week 13', next week; after three months, we will finally experience the big white continent of Antarctica.

Inca History, Colonial Highlights & the Panama Canal - Chile, South America We arrive in Chile in week 11 of our 13-week Pole-to-Pole cruise on the MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions and explore the coast. Day 71 - Arica, Chile Country 60! We are certainly increasing the number of countries we've visited! Today, we arrived in Arica, Chile's northernmost city, only 18 km from Peru. This port town, which has a population of 220,000, is surrounded by the Atacama Desert (also known as where fast fashion goes to die ). Near the centre of Arica, a path climbs up to Morro Arica hill, with sweeping views over the coastline. Upon arriving in Northern Chile, the landscape is a sea of arid scenery, the rich greenery we have left behind. You can feel the dust as you immerse yourself in the city and wonder about Summer; escaping is challenging. We were fortunate to glimpse some of the desert drawings, such as the geoglyphs of the north Chilean desert. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We were on an excursion to taste the flavours of Arica. It started with a short drive out of the city via the coastline and the enormous centrepiece, a large rock, to delve deeper into the desert to visit a local olive and tomato farm. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole After a quick stroll through the tomato vines and olive trees dating back over 100 years and a quick sample of homegrown olives, we enjoyed capturing some fun moments and settling into the peaceful oasis set up to soak up the morning sun. Next, we visited the local farmers market; we enjoyed perusing all the fresh produce and purchasing a vibrant bunch of lilies (USD5) to bring some joy to our home, our suite on the ship. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole A visit to a handicraft village followed the market, a replica of the Altiplanic town of Parinacota, located at 4390m high, and the commune of Putre, 200 km from Arica. We were offered a local Mango sour (incredibly sweet for our palate) and could peruse the craft shops. Due to the desolate atmosphere, we strolled quickly and rested on the bus. Once all passengers were back on the bus, we had a quick opportunity to explore the centre of Arica, which was filled with walking streets and eateries, a lovely church, and a historic building that was the original customs house designed by French architect Gustave Eiffel in metal and wood. We spent the afternoon relaxing on the ship, devouring more delights from Fredheim and spoilt by another magical sunset as we continued down the Chilean coastline to our next destination, Iquique. Fun facts: Pachamama is a goddess revered by the indigenous peoples of the Andes. In Inca mythology, she is an "Earth Mother" type goddess and a fertility goddess who presides over planting and harvesting, embodies the mountains, and causes earthquakes. It does not rain in Africa; there is zero rainfall each year. The Chinchorro mummies , the oldest mummies in the world, were recovered from the Atacama Desert near Arica and date back to around 7020 BCE. Chile's coastline is 6,435 km (4,000 miles) long. Day 72 - Iquique, Chile It was an early arrival into port, so the ship was as quiet as a mouse, as everyone was out and about on their excursions when we surfaced at about 9 am. Due to only having half a day in port, we opted out of the excursions as we didn't want to miss out on experiencing the life of now in Iquique by attending the historical-themed tour of the ghost town Humberstone, a UNESCO site, an old mining town with an alarming and sordid history, or the city highlights tour with a guide. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Iquique is a coastal city in northern Chile, west of the Atacama Desert, home to 200k people. A prosperous saltpetre mining town in the 19th century, today it's a popular holiday destination due to its crystal clear Pacific beaches and Spanish-influenced seafront casino. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We did it Wayne and Sal style and made our way to the old city (via a complimentary shuttle bus; being in a working port, it isn't safe to wander into town on foot). We were dropped five minutes from the port in the historic district by the iconic 19th-century clock tower in Arturo Prat Square, the city's central plaza. We gave ourselves a high five as we were exactly where we had planned on foot, a beautiful pedestrian street called Baquedano. A walking street lined with shades of pastel-coloured colonial-era buildings, now all operating as bars, cafes and restaurants. The first cafe we spotted was where we ordered our morning coffee to continue our stroll through the beautiful street. The coffee was delicious, too! I think it was 4000 pesos, so USD 2 each. We made sure to withdraw local currency via an ATM in Arica to make life easier, although cards were accepted in most places. We loved our morning walk. The weather was just below 20 degrees, so it was perfect. We enjoyed a sensational coffee and the coastal views as we reached the beaches. Making our way back up Baquedano, we were hoping to visit a local barber. The last tidy-up was in Canada, so he looked a little shabby. He was closed. We had put our sights on a funky bar below the barber earlier, so it was now mojito time instead. I am sure it was noon somewhere! We chatted away with our friendly bartender from Bolivia, listening intently to his inspiring story. His family immigrated to England, and of nine children, they provided the youngest three the opportunity to study for ten years; now, he has returned and is studying electrical engineering in Chile. We loved chatting and picking up the must-visit places when we made our way to Bolivia. We also enjoyed being in the moment and watching the local life. As our onboard time approached, we wandered back through the local markets before being shuttled back to the ship. We arrived in time for a Lindstrom lunch for a scenic sail away as we left Iquique. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole A special afternoon tea followed lunch with the Pole-to-Pole guests in Lindstrom. We were treated to a delicious array of savoury and sweet snacks, including a Hungarian-style crepe smothered with chocolate; who could say no? HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole After devouring all that delicious food, it was time to rest and enjoy an afternoon nap. Day 73 - At Sea, Chilean Coast Today was a relaxing day at sea. We soaked up the last of the sun, enjoyed the views, dined, and played the odd joke on our fellow passengers. We overheard our fellow passenger, Iain, ordering the Sorbet of the day. We took this as the perfect opportunity to play a joke. We quickly got the troops together, along with the lovely staff, and asked them to play along. We decided on Salmon Sorbet, as it was a dish this evening. So they organised a little slice of cooked salmon on top of a scoop and innocently served it to Iain with the commentary 'Sorbet of the day is Salmon' and placed the bowl before him. Iain's expression was priceless, followed by a swift turn in our direction, and we were all in fits of laughter. Thanks to the crew for playing along and to Iain for being such a good sport. He even devoured the 'Salmon sorbet of the day'. Thank you, Iain. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole It brightened everyone's day and filled us with laughter, especially after you devoured it; maybe it's your new favourite. Day 74 - Coquimbo & La Serena, Chile Welcome to our third destination in Chile, bordered by the Atacama to the north, Valparaíso to the South, Argentina to the east, and the Pacific Ocean to the west. It is approximately 400 kilometres north of the national capital, Santiago. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We opted for the city highlights of Coquimbo and La Serena, a colonial city, so we got off the waiting tour bus to explore both. The locals commonly refer to Coquimbo as a city of calm and tranquil waters—pictures through rose-coloured glasses (our bus had a pink tinge to the tinted windows). Our first stop was overlooking the ocean for pictures of the beach, meeting local dogs and the immense wildflowers, and continuing to Horseshoe Bay and the coastline as we migrated into La Serena. It was an active ocean with waves becoming more prominent as we toured the road, a segment of Route 5, the longest highway of 48000km, taking you from the end of the world in Chile to Alaska. Unfortunately, the university called off visits for tourists last week, so we continued to the city centre, where we were given 20 minutes of free time to peruse the local arts and crafts markets. Wayne and I explored the city centre and local life. Shortly after, we wandered back to the group; it was a little unsettling to feel watched while walking around on our own. Next was a visit to the Archaeological Museum in La Serena, home to the ancient Moai stone from Easter Island. A replica is currently being carved for the city of La Serena; once finished, this replica moai, carved by the best sculptors on the Island, will be given to the town in exchange for the historical moai in the Museum. As recorded in history, at the request of the then-President of Chile, Gabriel Gonzalez-Videla, the ancient moai was sent as a "gift" to La Serena in 1952 in gratitude. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We all walked through the city to a park in the market and were then delivered back to the ship. The evening was spent at a farewell dinner with our lovely new friends (sorry, Gunnar and Marit; we missed you guys in the picture, but we will find our way to Tromsø). We will miss everyone, but new friendships have been made for when our paths cross again. Fun facts: One of the strongest earthquakes registered was in La Serena at 9.2 (we later found out there was a stronger one at 9.5 in Puerto Natales) Economic activity in Coquimbo is growing, including mining (copper, gold, silver, coal), fishing, and tourism. La Serena is the second oldest city in Chile. Day 75 - Valparaíso, Chile This morning was disembarkation day for our fellow guests, and we had the morning to explore the city independently. We were first off to make the most of it and jumped on the shuttle bus to be transported to the port terminal and closer to the city. As we were dropped off, we were instructed to pass through a hidden door in the port. It was all so mysterious, but we popped out into the city and could explore it on foot; this is a video of re-entering the dock later in the day. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Our priority was a haircut; our last one was in Canada, so we were excited! We passed a barber as we walked. The young kids had the same priority, so it was bursting with a queue, so we planned to pop back on our return. We just roamed the streets. It was Saturday and market day, so it buzzed with locals and vendors selling everything. We loved wandering around, enjoying a morning coffee, and chatting with all the locals. Everyone was friendly and loved to stop for a chat and a picture, especially the men at the fish market. We had a hoot. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Today, we're sampling some local Chilean food. We stumbled upon a food truck corner with a great setup, so we popped in and supported a few, along with our first empanadas; they all loved having some Aussie visitors, so we kept busy capturing the moments. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We stopped in at the terminal for a tidy-up at the barber's. They were fantastic and trimmed our hair with perfection for USD 6. We left them with a little extra as we walked out feeling ten years younger and refreshed. The Pole to Pole guests and transit passengers were all treated to an afternoon winery tour and lunch, so we were excited. We were whisked away with a local guide and his lovely family, who happened to be Aussies from Chile. We spent the afternoon catching up and reminiscing on the Aussie way of life; we loved it. The winery we visited was Casas del Bosque, which translates to 'Houses of the Forest'. It is Chile's No. 5 wine producer. The wine region is Casablanca, only 30 minutes from Valparaiso, and it could compete with the best. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole It was world-class, and the food and wine were exceptional. We finally got to try our first Pisco Sour; next time, we will skip the syrup; we love our drinks dry and sour. We all enjoyed a slow lunch, relishing the afternoon in the fresh country air. We enjoyed escaping into this natural wonder for the afternoon, basking in the sun and learning about Chilean wines, which were very impressive. A special thank you to Daniel from DSH Wines for organising the winery experience and the special treat to take home. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Around 7 pm, we were delivered back to the ship to prepare for the new segment; we had about 400 new friends. We are looking forward to the final leg of the three-month cruise, which will involve exploring the South of Chile and arriving in Antarctica. Day 76 & 77 - At Sea, Chilean Coast, South Pacific Ocean The last two days of 'Week 11' were spent at sea, cruising the Chilean coast and approaching the channels and majestic fjords. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole It was a great two days relaxing and enjoying the peaceful sea days. Wayne and I love these in-between days, although they are straightforward to fill with meeting new passengers, catching up with fellow pole polers, and enjoying meals. We also love having fresh flowers in our room; they brighten up our days at sea. All passengers are busy preparing for Antarctica, settling in for their new voyage and booking excursions. We hope we are lucky to win the kayaking (approximately 20-40 passengers will be selected) and snow walks during our landings. We have many passengers at 400 and only limited spots for these experiences; of course, we hope Mother Nature is also on our side. Fingers crossed. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Join us next week for more adventures in Chile as we explore the South.

Inca History, Colonial Highlights & the Panama Canal - Ecuador, South America In week ten of our 13-week bucket list Pole to Pole cruise on the MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions , we embark on the West coast of South America (Note: Peru was cancelled due to COVID restrictions; if the ship had one positive case, she would have been quarantined for two weeks). Day 64 - Manta, Ecuador 'Week ten' kicks off with Country 59. Welcome to Ecuador. On our way this morning, the ship was surrounded by a pod of dolphins, a lovely warm welcome to Ecuador. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We arrived early in the afternoon in Manta, a popular beach destination in Ecuador, home to 200,000 residents and the second largest port city in Ecuador. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The beaches were sandy and vast along the coast, the city was clean, and the locals were just as we were. With smiles, waves, and hellos at every opportunity, the people of Ecuador warmed our hearts. We felt the natural vibe today and opted for the paid excursion to a nearby forest. A small group of us were on the bus, heading 45 minutes out of the city to the enchanted Pacoche Forest. We passed through rural villages where 'The Montecristi' is generationally sourced, prepared, and handmade. The Montecristi is known to most of us as the 'Panama Hat'. We have learned a significant 'fun fact' this week: the hats are actually from and made in Ecuador, referred to as 'The Montecristi', a small village in Ecuador (near Manta) where they are hand-crafted by artisans. One hat with the finest straw can take up to three months and sell for over $1k. As we passed through the villages, you could feel the locals' warmth and pride in their homes and environment; all were spotless and uncluttered. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole From Manta to Pacoche, you experience three distinct microclimates: a semi-arid desert with expansive beaches and a transition area of dry forest, with vegetation to enter a misty, humid jungle. Pacoche is a National Reserve natural wonder with a unique regional flora and fauna diversity. We are joined by a local, national naturist who guides us through the hidden gems while commenting on all flora and fauna. We enjoyed the calmness of the forest and the fresh, misty air as we completed a 45-minute trek, listening intently for the unique Howler Monkeys, home to about 900 monkeys. We were mesmerised as we heard their roar below through the forest. We were lucky to see them feeding in the treetops. The territorial roar of the Howler Monkey is said to be the loudest sound made by any land animal in the world; it was quite an eerie experience. It was a very insightful trek with our guide, Rinaldo. He was born and bred in the region, and his love for natural wonders shone through. We picked up lots of fun facts about the healing qualities of many plants and the not-so-healing qualities of some that can lead to the bitter end. As dusk and the mist settled in, we were back on the bus to the ship. We were all delighted with the lunchbox we were gifted with local goodies. They were all delicious, especially the banana crisps, a local Ecuadorian banana, and the chocolate! This evening, we sailed away from our first destination in Ecuador, Manta; it's always lovely to sail away from a sea of city lights. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Fun Facts: Ecuador is a major exporter of bananas, coffee and chocolate. The construction of the Panama Canal caused an excellent demand for toquilla straw hats from Ecuador because of their superb sun protection. The hat became internationally known in Panama, and people began to call it the 'Panama Hat' even though it originated in Ecuador. Ecuador is also home to the smallest hummingbird in the world, the 'Bee Hummingbird,' which is 3-5cm in height. The Montecristi hat is known to the world as the Panama hat, but it is the Montecristi in Ecuador. Hat production is commonly generational; one person goes to the forest to collect the straw, another dries the straw, and one makes the hat. The process is all by hand. Ecuador is home to the tagua tree, which produces the corozo nut. It is an ivory nut that, when fresh, you can eat and drink from, like a mini coconut; once dried, it becomes hard and is used to make buttons; they are very durable. It is much more friendly and sustainable than using elephant tusks and plastic. Day 65 - Puerto Bolivar & Machala, Ecuador Ecuador and its beautiful people are winning us over! It was a magical day exploring another beautiful pocket of Ecuador. This morning, I explored the local cities, starting with the port town of Puerto Bolivar and then Machala, home to 250,000. We started with a visit to the local market in Puerto Bolivar, which is full of fresh produce, butchers, and all essentials. A regional hotspot for the locals to enjoy coffee and lunch while they grocery shop, the market was filled with locals and the tunes of local music. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We roamed around, meeting all the stallholders. We loved checking out the local foods and meeting the lovely people. This was followed by a short bus trip to Machala, where we were welcomed with a cultural dance show and then could peruse the market of more local goodies; we couldn't pass up the opportunity to purchase the chocolate they are very well known for, being spoilt with samples of the coffee they produce too, we loved supporting them. We returned with a bag of goodies, a beautiful hand-painted hat for both of us, some delicious-smelling soaps, and a few gifts. We loved how each stall had a student from an English-speaking school describing the goods; we loved the energy and helping them converse in our mother language. Wayne didn't pass up the opportunity to dance and joined the crew, who shared their local talents of the Pasillo dance. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Next, we visited the municipal centre, where we experienced more cultural shows, more Pasillo dancing, and the incredible talents of the Ecuadorians. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole After this, we visited a park surrounded by friendly locals and could enjoy a freshly made cocktail; a mojito was our drink of choice, and Wayne and I felt at home; it was even on the house. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We were continually impressed with their cleanliness and pride in their city; the streets were impeccable, and you could feel the love for visitors to their wonderful city. Everyone loved to chat and take a picture to capture our visit; it was so heartwarming. It was a morning of positive energy, smiles, and moments with the beautiful souls of Machala, a city with which we fell in love. Thank you for having us and welcoming us into your world. Our guide shared his love for his home with us, and we left with a bounce in our step and very warm hearts. Fun facts: Puerto Bolivar is one of the world's most prominent shipment points for bananas, most of them destined for Europe; about 80% of Ecuador's banana production is shipped through these port facilities Ecuador's currency is the US dollar. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Day 66 - Guayaquil, Ecuador Ecuador's incredibly kind and friendly people have continued to capture our hearts. We are grateful we had the opportunity to visit Guayaquil, our last destination in Ecuador. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We are smitten with only three destinations in this magical country, an undiscovered gem in Latin America. Docking in this morning, we were surrounded by the greenest mangroves on the edge of a large city, encapsulating 3.2 million Ecuadorians. It could easily have been the Capital City, which I believe was initially in the running with Quito. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We couldn't miss the opportunity of being surrounded by the locals again; the energy they share with the world around them is infectious. So we opted for the 'City highlights' excursion, which was also included, so there was no additional cost. Most of us opted for the same, so we were all packed into the buses for a half-day trip around Guayaquil. First was the Notre Dame-style cathedral in the city's heart, and the park, which you could nearly mistake for a zoo. It was full of Iguanas roaming around and turtles and fish populating the pond. It was wonderful. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Following this, we had a short walk to another square, where we were in awe of the gracious architecture; the buildings were stunning. As we walked, we were accompanied by the local police on bikes, not due to safety concerns, but more of a hospitable approach welcoming us to their city. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The rest of the passengers visited a museum, so this was our perfect opportunity to sneak away and experience life in Ecuador. We found a nearby coffee shop and quickly ordered a local coffee, which was delicious, another of their primary exports. Our lovely friend Alex, a local policeman accompanying the tour, also joined us for a coffee, and the charming cafe owner gifted us her homemade cake, which we all relished; it was divine! After 15 minutes of freedom, we returned to join the tour and continued learning about Guayaquil's history. Our guide, Allan, led us to a beautiful beachside esplanade and another, where we chatted with the locals and captured moments. We then wandered into the old Spanish town. You instantly felt like you were back in Europe; the vibe was inspiring with the bright, colourful buildings, art galleries and boutique hotels. After spending the morning in Guayaquil, we were ready to add this to our list. We would love to come back and explore more and support all the local restaurants, cafes and bars. Ecuador is a hidden gem; you are guaranteed to leave a piece of yourself in this beautiful, warm and gentle part of the world. Fun facts: Ecuador has a population of 18 million; both Quito and Guayaquil have approximately 3 million Ecuador is the first country to give rights to nature—you can be imprisoned for harming or capturing a protected species. Guayaquil's main exports are Cacao beans, seaport services, bananas, and oil. Ecuador cacao beans were Queen Elizabeth II's first choice for making chocolate for the royal family. Recently, Ecuador started producing high-quality chocolate that is sold at a premium. Guayaquil is the gateway to the Galapagos Islands. Colombia and Ecuador have the world's highest number of bird species. As we sailed away this evening, a beautiful sky joined us, with the local fisherman feeding the birds to bid us farewell. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Day 67, 68, 69 & 70 - At Sea, South Pacific Ocean After a magical start to the week exploring Ecuador, we set sail for four days to make our way to Chile, bypassing Peru after some stringent COVID restrictions on cruise ships. We used this time to share the love of Ecuador on social media, help the local businesses, and thank them for their warm hospitality and beautiful products. Sea days are always full of dining; here is a selection of the meals we enjoyed over the four days at sea in Lindstrom. One evening, we were treated to champagne and pizza for the Pole to Polers, which, of course, is always a welcome addition, and it is nice to enjoy some new cuisines. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Afternoons were filled with the beautiful voice and music of the pianist, the lovely Julio from Brazil. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We celebrated special anniversaries, birthdays, and dinners with our wonderful fellow passengers in the lovely Lindstrom, sharing travel, life stories, laughter and creating friendships; it was always inspiring. On one of the days, the ship came across a whale carcass. They slowed down and inched closer for us all to observe the bird life. It was pretty eerie and brutal to forget the stench. It is always sad when we come across them, but the circle of life continues. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We were also treated to a pre-dinner show one evening with the dolphins dancing around the ship; they were everywhere, and it was gorgeous! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole During our sea days, we were followed down the Peruvian coast by extraordinary sunsets that filled the sky with magnificent pastels. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Fun fact: Cheers in Norwa y, 'Skål ' has a fascinating back story. It derives from thousands of years before the Vikings and refers to actual skulls with the top cut off, used as a drinking vessel to drink from. Thanks to our fellow Norwegian friends for the fun fact.

Rocky Mountaineer - Two Days Does the Rocky Mountaineer luxury train trip through the Canadian Rockies live up to the hype? Well, yes and no. Let's start with the 'Yes'; travelling in Gold Leaf, with its upper deck and glass ceiling, offers stunning views. It's a bucket list item, although it depends on your age. Rocky Mountaineer Train Let me explain why this train trip has lost some of its shine. We took the 'First Passage to the West' trip, which is marketed as 'Canada's favourite Rocky Mountain getaway. Come for the views; stay for the hot springs.' Rocky Mountaineer Train Current pricing is CAD 5,400 for two people, AUD 6,000, or AUD 3,000 daily. Does this deliver the value of a seven-night Alaskan cruise on a premium cruise line, which is currently around the same price? No. Let's be honest. This is a bucket list item. The average age is 70+, so the value does not matter. We took the Vancouver to Banff Eastbound route. On day one , you must arrive at the station between 6.45 and 7.15 am for an 8.00 am start. It has a self-service coffee station; sorry, not a barrister in sight. Stroll outside the train, and capture some beautiful photos before the crowds arrive. By crowds, we mean that depending on the train's length (we had nearly 20 carriages), each wagon seats approximately 60 people. From the onboard literature, the maximum recorded was 1,300+ passengers. The journey starts with an all-aboard call, with a bagpiper playing, which was unique and special. Here is where the first hiccup started: As we realised the guests' ages, we waited in the rain while the first person was assisted onto the train and transferred upstairs by the internal lift while 60 people queued up in the rain to board the carriage. It would have been more efficient to have this guest wait in the golf buggy until the queues had waned or board the guests needing assistance before boarding. Yes, the carriages are divine. They are replacing the Gold Leaf rolling stock, so we luckily scored one of the ten carriages. These include upgraded fixtures and finishes, and are simply luxurious and beautiful. Once boarded, you walk up the circular staircase (memories of the golden age of air travel with the onboard lounges on the top deck 747). I'm not sure how you can select a seat. However, your travel agent may ensure you are allocated seats with an entire glass pane. Unlike ours, we were assigned seats with a substantial joint between windows. At $3,000 per day, I want that whole view experience. The seats are simply divine. They are fully adjustable, with fine plush leather, a cushioned headrest, ample leg room, and the people in front of you, when they recline, will not encroach on your space. The service team of four is impressive, considering it is shared over two levels, the bottom for dining and the top for seating. The train leaves at 8:00 am, and the adventure begins at 8:00 am with an overview of the facilities from the ever-attentive team. The dining room downstairs can only handle half the passengers, so the carriage is split into two groups for dining. The first sitting starts at 8:30 am, the second at 108:30 a.m. Don't stress; a made-to-order pastry and beverages are served at 10:00 am while the first group enjoys breakfast downstairs in the lovely dining cart. The journey builds like a crescendo, starting with views of a working city. It moves through the suburbs, onto the plains, and slowly reaches the mountains. Breakfast was good. Remember, each carriage has its dedicated kitchen, so they cook for 60 people per carriage. Don't expect fine dining; it's banquet-style, where everyone's orders are taken and delivered as dishes are prepared. The tables are shared, four to a table, so you'll get to meet and talk to great people from all walks of life. Take some time to enjoy the first part of the journey. The crew will give you just the right amount of information on the landscape as you travel through it. Rocky Mountaineer Train Spend time on the open-air platform downstairs; we loved the experience and feeling part of nature and landscapes as you speed by. However, the views are better from your seats on the upper floor. Rocky Mountaineer Train The bar opens at 10:00 am, and let's say we took the opportunity at 10:00 to enjoy a finely made cocktail while relaxing and watching the world slowly pass by our window. We didn't particularly like the complimentary wines, so we opted for a beautiful, reasonably priced French Chablis. However, at this point, I'm confused about why Rocky Mountaineer persists with below-average wines (average $15 per bottle) when Canada produces some excellent wines. You are given a unique lunch menu and choose your options daily. All meals are locally sourced from areas throughout the train trip. We found listening closely to the crew's recommendations essential to ensure you enjoy the best dishes. A freshly cooked cookie is served around 4 pm, a nice touch. The train rolls into Kamloops at 7:30 pm, and passengers board the buses. The journey takes about 20 minutes. The wait is very long; by the time you get to your hotel room, it's typically 8:30 pm. One major disappointment was that you could not select your hotel. Our hotel didn't have a restaurant or room service, so if you had the midday lunch, it's now 8.30 pm with no options to 8.30 pm, you have a very early start the next day. The accommodation was disappointing; we stayed at Fairfield Inn & Suites Kamloops (a 2-star hotel), which, in our opinion, does not offer Gold Leaf service at this price point. Day two is where the adventure truly starts. Another early start with the bus picking us up at 5.45 am. Today, we decided to skip breakfast and catch up with a nap at 6:45 am when we board the train. Although the day starts with magical scenery, you must take turns napping. On this day, we spent more time outside in the open-air viewing area, which was awe-inspiring. Many new friendships were made while enjoying the fresh mountain air and the journey. Rocky Mountaineer Train Using one of the tips below, we scored a table just for ourselves while sipping a beautiful French Chablis and even slowing the meal service. We could not fault the service. The team was terrific! The train stops outside Lake Louise for about 30 minutes to offload passengers. Unfortunately, you are behind the mountain, so don't expect any lake views. We were very disappointed with this, as one of the reasons we booked this train trip was because we understood we would also visit Lake Louise, which might have been careless on our behalf, a misunderstanding of the route. We're now down to the home stretch and will arrive in Banff exhausted after two very long days. Rocky Mountaineer Train We also waited another 30 minutes for the bus to load and drive us to our hotel, which was an 8-minute walk; it would have been nice to have been offered the walking option. By this time, it's 8:30 pm, and in Banff, that's 8:30 pm. Only one thing: everything is nearly closed, and most restaurants close at 9 pm. Banff is suffering from over-tourism, with a population of 8,000 receiving up to one million visitors per month in Summer. The locals we talked to in Banff gave us the best advice: leave and stay in Canmore, which is only 20 minutes from Banff, has better dining and views and no tourists. Insiders Tips Most passengers miss parts due to sleeping because of the 12-hour days, so grab naps in the morning; the best views are on both afternoons. It's a diesel train, so bring some wipes, as your face will be covered in soot from the engine when using the viewing area. Ensure you have sunscreen if you're standing outside in the viewing area, as there will be plenty of sun on both days. There is always a queue with only two toilets and sixty-plus older people, so avoid the pre- and post-lunch rush between 12 pm and 3 pm. Getting a table for two at lunch? Two bench seats at the rear of the dining area seat only two people, which is ideal for romantics like Sally and me. Make sure you find out your eating time, walk down 5 minutes before opening, and then request one of those tables—boom, a romantic table for two. Book a restaurant before getting into Banff; even our hotel restaurant was closed at 8.30 pm. Our verdict We wait until 8:30 pm. It's up to you to make the decision. We all have different travel styles, needs, and wants. Definitely, 'Yes' if you're looking for a bucket list item and have the means, do it. The Rocky Mountains are mesmerising. If you're younger, we recommend considering your options and taking an Alaskan cruise ; it will provide you with a much better value experience.

Daily Food & Wine - One visit Daily Food & Wine in Skopje met our expectations of exceptional food and wine. Daily Food & Wine - Skopje The restaurant is located within a shopping mall. What it lacks in views, it makes up for in delicious, fresh food and high-quality meals. We visited our dear friend Nikola , whom we met in Mavrovo at the beautiful Mia's Favorite Hotel . He was home in Skopje for a few days. It is always lovely to catch up with friends we meet throughout our travels. We needed our meat fix, and we were impressed. The beefsteak was cooked to perfection. Wayne whetted his appetite with a piece of home and ordered the Australian sirloin. The staff was very friendly, and the restaurant was buzzing with locals, which is always a positive sign. It has an excellent menu with a spread of choices for everyone's appetites, complemented by a long list of local and international wines, all at very affordable prices. Daily Food & Wine - Skopje

Restaurant Tramonto - Two Visits Sometimes, just everything clicks with a restaurant, and magic happens. Restaurant Tramonto - Rovinj Well, that's the restaurant Tramonto. Firstly, the location is perfect for a long, lazy lunch or a prime seat at those amazing Rovinj sunsets over the Atlantic sea. Restaurant Tramonto - Rovinj The restaurant's interior is very stylish and modern, with a bit of quirkiness. Let's start with the wine selection. This restaurant has an excellent wine list—not huge, but impressive quality. Everything is over 4-stars in Vivino . Our waiter, Nikola, was fantastic. His knowledge of the wine list was extensive, and he picked a magical local bottle of Roxanich Antica 2011 . Now, we will go to the food, which exceeded our expectations. The presentation was perfect, the fresh food, and the taste sublime. Restaurant Tramonto - Rovinj My only disappointment is that we found this restaurant late during our extended two-month stay in Rovinj . This restaurant deserves to be much busier, as it outshines several other venues in Rovinj. It offers views, great food, wine, and style delivered by a passionate team, especially Nikola and Nikolina .

Nähatelier & Waschsalon Doli We stayed in Zermatt after travelling for a few months, and laundry was required without paying hotel prices. We found this local laundry around the corner, and the woman was lovely. She took a whole bag of laundry, ready for pickup the same day. We were charged for one bag, which was about 2 kilos and cost around 20 Francs, which was better than paying by piece at the hotel. We were delighted with the quality of our clean clothes and the service we received. Nähatelier & Waschsalon Doli