Patagonia & Antarctica Ultimate Adventure - Southern Chile, Latin America In week 12 of our 13-week pole-to-pole cruise on the MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions, we cruise and explore the southern coast of Chile and experience the majestic Chilean fjords. Day 78 - Castro, Chile The dramatic change of scenery as we cruised the Chilean coast was a welcome gift. Chile has a coastline of 6500 km. The first week was spent cruising the Atacama desert, and now we feel we are in the Sound of Music with rolling, lush green meadows sprinkled with wildflowers. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We arrived in Castro this morning, a beautiful, picturesque town on Chiloé Island in Chile's Lake District. You have a familiar sense of New England, surrounded by rolling green hills. It is unique, especially with the colourful wooden stilt houses that line the waterfront. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Today, we opted for 'Sal & Wayne' style, bypassing all the excursions to get lost in a city and escape the crowds. It was a perfect city to explore on foot; the city centre was moments from the pier. We enjoyed exploring and hunting down a local cafe to experiment with the coffee. Unfortunately, the first cafe scored no points, but we were impressed with the second find, a local bakery. I continued exploring the city, catching a glimpse of the Church of San Francisco. Declared World Heritage by UNESCO in 2000, it is one of the city's most important historical buildings. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We stumbled on a viewpoint with a cascading view of the vividly coloured homes on stilts across the low tide, along with another smaller pocket on the other side of Castro. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole This set us up to enjoy the waterside walk and beautiful, unique homes; unfortunately, a fire struck six homes the year prior, and they were busy rebuilding the gorgeous homes. We popped in for a coffee along the way; a gorgeous new boutique hotel, Sizigia Hotel , was now occupying the space. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We followed coffee with lunch on the deck, which overlooked the nearby local restaurant, Sabores de mi Tierra . Settling in to enjoy the local Pisco Sours, you only needed a couple at this fabulous restaurant; let's say they were well balanced with the Pisco, definitely on the sour side, which was our preference. The food was excellent, the fish was the freshest, and the atmosphere was surrounded by friendly locals dining. The magical hills and fishermen, oh, and seabirds kept you entertained—a perfect afternoon. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole As we wandered back to the ship, we saw some of the beautiful and eclectic homes and architecture, and to finish the day, some danced on the pier. Castro is a perfect destination to slow life down. It is a very safe city, and you are spoiled with luxury boutique accommodation, high-quality dining, warm and friendly people, scenic views, and being on the doorstep of the Chilean Fjords. The late afternoon sail away was sensory overload as we cruised out of the rolling green hills, giving us a taste of what would come as we entered the magnificent Chilean Fjords. Day 79 - At Sea, South Pacific Ocean, Chile Enjoying the scenery and views as we approached the Chilean Fjords, the misty weather provided a beautiful backdrop. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Today was a great excuse to take the time to have one of those much-needed chill days; who doesn't love one of those? Especially when you have the scenery below as you enjoy a lazy lunch and dinner in Lindstrom. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Part of the day was also spent in the open ocean, so we experienced some rocky waters. It is always best to stay motionless to avoid seasickness. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Day 80 - Puerto Eden, Chile After navigating through the channels and fjords, our first destination in the Magallanes Region was Puerto Edén. It is a Chilean hamlet and minor port located on Wellington Island and considered one of Chile's most isolated inhabited places, together with Easter Island and Villa Las Estrellas. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Puerto Edén is hidden deep in the Chilean fjords, off the beaten path, with a tiny community of 170. We were on the first excursion, and the climate change reminded us that we were getting closer to Antarctica. The skies were open, which is very common in Puerto Edén. A resident guided us through the perimeter of the small village; they had a neat walkway from end to end with a few lookout spots as we strolled with the skies of Mother Nature, learning about village life. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole A bit further south, you will find Brüggen Glacier, the longest glacier in the southern hemisphere outside Antarctica. Unlike most glaciers, it has been growing. The afternoon was spent navigating the channels southbound for Patagonia. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The vast number of waterfalls as we cruised was a sensory overload. Never have we seen so many waterfalls cascading from the melting snow; they were scattered along the magnificent coastline as we exited this beautiful scenery. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Day 81 - Torres del Paine, Chile Welcome to Puerto Natales, a port city on the Señoret Channel in Chile's southern Patagonia. It is the gateway to the famous Torres del Paine National Park. As we opened the blinds this morning, we were surrounded by snow-capped mountains and couldn't wait to be whisked away on our full-day excursion. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The Pole to Polers was first up, and we were eagerly waiting as we headed to Torres del Paine, the UNESCO national park listed in 1978 and the 8th natural wonder in the world, to visit the Grey Glacier. It was about a two-hour drive to the entry, and we all enjoyed the magnificent scenery along the way and hearing all about the juicy details of the region from our very knowledgeable guide, Gabriela. Upon arriving in the park, we were transported about half an hour deep in preparation for our boat cruise across the lake to get up close and personal with the Grey Glacier. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We all settled in for a speedy lunch at the Grey Hotel, where the bar and restaurant overlook the glorious mountains and glaciers. Wayne and I even squeezed in a Pisco Sour on a mission to try as many as possible in Chile. They only improve as we go, especially when ordering sugar/syrup-free. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole After lunch, we were ready to embark on the glacier boat cruise, but Mother Nature had other plans. The winds picked up to 60km, and the snow started to fall, so Plan B was put in play; we were to jump back on the bus for a scenic ride around the park for the afternoon. Fortunately, the bus was comfortable and warm, and we enjoyed the views and a few lookout points. However, with the rapidly changing weather, it was difficult to do much more—microclimates on steroids in Torres del Paine. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We captured the scenery as best we could from the bus, and Wayne braved the strong winds, snow, and rain to find the lookout spots; he is a gem! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole As darkness settled in, it was time to head back to the ship, which was a few hours' drive away. On the way back, we sighted a few Guanacos, the native llamas, but unfortunately, no pumas. After a long day, we returned to the ship at about 8:30 p.m. to dine and rest quickly. The ship was portside overnight in Puerto Natales, so we looked forward to exploring the lovely town, Wayne and Sal's style, the following day and continuing our Pisco Sour tour. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Fun facts: 30000 islands amongst the channels and fjords in the south of Chile, 11000 have no names The Andes go for 8000km from Venezuela to Cape Horn, under the water and resurface in Antarctica Chile is known as the Pacific Ring of Fire. It is one of the countries with the most volcanoes on Earth, estimated at almost 2000. About 500 volcanoes are active, 60 of which have recorded eruptions in the last 450 years. The largest earthquake, with a magnitude of 9.5, was in Southern Chile. In 1960 , the most powerful earthquake recorded in history struck southern Chile. The rupture zone stretched from estimates ranging from 500 kilometres (311 miles) to almost 1,000 kilometres (621 miles) along the country's coast. Day 82 - Puerto Natales, Chile Today was one of those unplanned days that filled us with so much joy. First, Wayne and I just walked off the ship with a coffee shop named Nomad in mind, which we had to support because our dear friends from Belgrade also have a restaurant called Nomad. The coffee didn't disappoint; it was a lovely little cafe with warm energy and a local vibe. Now, we had coffee to kickstart the day, and we strolled around the beautiful city centre of Puerto Natales. It is immaculate and well-designed, and the town has a soul and is very inviting. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Just before lunch, we found a cosy restaurant bar called Wild Hostel. It had a very inviting wood-fired stove, a friendly resident dog, and a sofa for us to chill on and watch the world go by. The team was a delight; we were friends in minutes, and the owner was Finnish. (My mother is also Finnish.) HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We were joined by Pat and Bob, who wanted to participate in the fun, and soon after, Mary and Stephen. We enjoyed a few Pisco Sours and snacks while chatting about our lives. After three months of cruising together, we feel like family. Stephen grabbed the guitar nearby and entertained us with his hidden talents, which he had been hiding all over the ship for the past few months. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole It was a beautiful afternoon; we enjoyed listening to the owner's life story. It was an inspiring adventure to bring him to where he is today, owning a beautiful hostel with his lovely wife and now based amongst the snow-capped mountains in Patagonia. After we finished up at Wild, we dropped into another beautiful restaurant called Vinnhaus to sample their cocktails. Another Finnish owner greeted us with a warm welcome from the team. You were transported back to the 1920s; the decor was fabulous, and we found a hidden little nook to start our way through the cocktails. I have never seen a cocktail list that I loved so much. Luckily, we had a curfew! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The cocktails were impressive, and we enjoyed a few more hours onshore. We met the loveliest family from Chile, who were visiting from Santiago and chose this beautiful restaurant for their family dinner; meeting them all was a delight. We loved the atmosphere, ambience, cocktails, and staff, and we are trying our best to come back and stay for an extended period early next year; they also have a super cute hotel attached. Wayne and I will feel at home, and Puerto Natales is a perfect destination to enjoy at the tail end of Summer. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Surprisingly, we made it back to the ship via a tender boat as the Nansen (our sister ship, which is identical to us, apart from a 1cm difference in length) had snuck in while we were ashore and took our place in port so we all had the night just off the dock and enjoyed a peaceful night's sleep before we embarked on the journey to Antarctica. Day 83 & 84 - At Sea, Chilean Fjords & Beagle Channel , Chile I spent both days at sea, but with some magical highlights. We cruised through the White Narrows, an extremely narrow channel from Puerto Natales, to find our way through the Chilean Fjords. We all rushed to the Bow of the ship to witness the narrow passage; with a deep breath, we quickly squeezed through the tight path. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The scenery throughout the day was majestic, from waterfalls to glaciers to mountainscapes. The Chilean Fjords and channels are breathtaking. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We filled one afternoon with a birthday celebration. A fellow pole-to-pole, Stephe, was entering his 73rd year, so we all enjoyed champagne, wine, and tequila shots! It was a blast! The ship was also decorated for Halloween, and for those brave enough, there was a pumpkin smoothie treat. We also enjoyed our favourite pancake treat from Fredheim. Thank you, Chef! The last day of week 12 was spent navigating more majestic scenery as we departed the South of Chile and made our way through the Beagle Channel for clearance to Antarctica. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Puerto Williams was where the ship made a quick stop for clearance and entered the Drake Passage, also known as the 'Drake Shake'. We were all warned it would be rough, so pop your pills and tuck everything away. We were cautious and followed the advice, and we were surprised at how uneventful it was and that we slept through the night! Thank you, Mother Nature. Join us for the grand finale, 'week 13', next week; after three months, we will finally experience the big white continent of Antarctica.

Inca History, Colonial Highlights & the Panama Canal - Chile, South America We arrive in Chile in week 11 of our 13-week Pole-to-Pole cruise on the MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions and explore the coast. Day 71 - Arica, Chile Country 60! We are certainly increasing the number of countries we've visited! Today, we arrived in Arica, Chile's northernmost city, only 18 km from Peru. This port town, which has a population of 220,000, is surrounded by the Atacama Desert (also known as where fast fashion goes to die ). Near the centre of Arica, a path climbs up to Morro Arica hill, with sweeping views over the coastline. Upon arriving in Northern Chile, the landscape is a sea of arid scenery, the rich greenery we have left behind. You can feel the dust as you immerse yourself in the city and wonder about Summer; escaping is challenging. We were fortunate to glimpse some of the desert drawings, such as the geoglyphs of the north Chilean desert. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We were on an excursion to taste the flavours of Arica. It started with a short drive out of the city via the coastline and the enormous centrepiece, a large rock, to delve deeper into the desert to visit a local olive and tomato farm. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole After a quick stroll through the tomato vines and olive trees dating back over 100 years and a quick sample of homegrown olives, we enjoyed capturing some fun moments and settling into the peaceful oasis set up to soak up the morning sun. Next, we visited the local farmers market; we enjoyed perusing all the fresh produce and purchasing a vibrant bunch of lilies (USD5) to bring some joy to our home, our suite on the ship. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole A visit to a handicraft village followed the market, a replica of the Altiplanic town of Parinacota, located at 4390m high, and the commune of Putre, 200 km from Arica. We were offered a local Mango sour (incredibly sweet for our palate) and could peruse the craft shops. Due to the desolate atmosphere, we strolled quickly and rested on the bus. Once all passengers were back on the bus, we had a quick opportunity to explore the centre of Arica, which was filled with walking streets and eateries, a lovely church, and a historic building that was the original customs house designed by French architect Gustave Eiffel in metal and wood. We spent the afternoon relaxing on the ship, devouring more delights from Fredheim and spoilt by another magical sunset as we continued down the Chilean coastline to our next destination, Iquique. Fun facts: Pachamama is a goddess revered by the indigenous peoples of the Andes. In Inca mythology, she is an "Earth Mother" type goddess and a fertility goddess who presides over planting and harvesting, embodies the mountains, and causes earthquakes. It does not rain in Africa; there is zero rainfall each year. The Chinchorro mummies , the oldest mummies in the world, were recovered from the Atacama Desert near Arica and date back to around 7020 BCE. Chile's coastline is 6,435 km (4,000 miles) long. Day 72 - Iquique, Chile It was an early arrival into port, so the ship was as quiet as a mouse, as everyone was out and about on their excursions when we surfaced at about 9 am. Due to only having half a day in port, we opted out of the excursions as we didn't want to miss out on experiencing the life of now in Iquique by attending the historical-themed tour of the ghost town Humberstone, a UNESCO site, an old mining town with an alarming and sordid history, or the city highlights tour with a guide. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Iquique is a coastal city in northern Chile, west of the Atacama Desert, home to 200k people. A prosperous saltpetre mining town in the 19th century, today it's a popular holiday destination due to its crystal clear Pacific beaches and Spanish-influenced seafront casino. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We did it Wayne and Sal style and made our way to the old city (via a complimentary shuttle bus; being in a working port, it isn't safe to wander into town on foot). We were dropped five minutes from the port in the historic district by the iconic 19th-century clock tower in Arturo Prat Square, the city's central plaza. We gave ourselves a high five as we were exactly where we had planned on foot, a beautiful pedestrian street called Baquedano. A walking street lined with shades of pastel-coloured colonial-era buildings, now all operating as bars, cafes and restaurants. The first cafe we spotted was where we ordered our morning coffee to continue our stroll through the beautiful street. The coffee was delicious, too! I think it was 4000 pesos, so USD 2 each. We made sure to withdraw local currency via an ATM in Arica to make life easier, although cards were accepted in most places. We loved our morning walk. The weather was just below 20 degrees, so it was perfect. We enjoyed a sensational coffee and the coastal views as we reached the beaches. Making our way back up Baquedano, we were hoping to visit a local barber. The last tidy-up was in Canada, so he looked a little shabby. He was closed. We had put our sights on a funky bar below the barber earlier, so it was now mojito time instead. I am sure it was noon somewhere! We chatted away with our friendly bartender from Bolivia, listening intently to his inspiring story. His family immigrated to England, and of nine children, they provided the youngest three the opportunity to study for ten years; now, he has returned and is studying electrical engineering in Chile. We loved chatting and picking up the must-visit places when we made our way to Bolivia. We also enjoyed being in the moment and watching the local life. As our onboard time approached, we wandered back through the local markets before being shuttled back to the ship. We arrived in time for a Lindstrom lunch for a scenic sail away as we left Iquique. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole A special afternoon tea followed lunch with the Pole-to-Pole guests in Lindstrom. We were treated to a delicious array of savoury and sweet snacks, including a Hungarian-style crepe smothered with chocolate; who could say no? HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole After devouring all that delicious food, it was time to rest and enjoy an afternoon nap. Day 73 - At Sea, Chilean Coast Today was a relaxing day at sea. We soaked up the last of the sun, enjoyed the views, dined, and played the odd joke on our fellow passengers. We overheard our fellow passenger, Iain, ordering the Sorbet of the day. We took this as the perfect opportunity to play a joke. We quickly got the troops together, along with the lovely staff, and asked them to play along. We decided on Salmon Sorbet, as it was a dish this evening. So they organised a little slice of cooked salmon on top of a scoop and innocently served it to Iain with the commentary 'Sorbet of the day is Salmon' and placed the bowl before him. Iain's expression was priceless, followed by a swift turn in our direction, and we were all in fits of laughter. Thanks to the crew for playing along and to Iain for being such a good sport. He even devoured the 'Salmon sorbet of the day'. Thank you, Iain. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole It brightened everyone's day and filled us with laughter, especially after you devoured it; maybe it's your new favourite. Day 74 - Coquimbo & La Serena, Chile Welcome to our third destination in Chile, bordered by the Atacama to the north, Valparaíso to the South, Argentina to the east, and the Pacific Ocean to the west. It is approximately 400 kilometres north of the national capital, Santiago. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We opted for the city highlights of Coquimbo and La Serena, a colonial city, so we got off the waiting tour bus to explore both. The locals commonly refer to Coquimbo as a city of calm and tranquil waters—pictures through rose-coloured glasses (our bus had a pink tinge to the tinted windows). Our first stop was overlooking the ocean for pictures of the beach, meeting local dogs and the immense wildflowers, and continuing to Horseshoe Bay and the coastline as we migrated into La Serena. It was an active ocean with waves becoming more prominent as we toured the road, a segment of Route 5, the longest highway of 48000km, taking you from the end of the world in Chile to Alaska. Unfortunately, the university called off visits for tourists last week, so we continued to the city centre, where we were given 20 minutes of free time to peruse the local arts and crafts markets. Wayne and I explored the city centre and local life. Shortly after, we wandered back to the group; it was a little unsettling to feel watched while walking around on our own. Next was a visit to the Archaeological Museum in La Serena, home to the ancient Moai stone from Easter Island. A replica is currently being carved for the city of La Serena; once finished, this replica moai, carved by the best sculptors on the Island, will be given to the town in exchange for the historical moai in the Museum. As recorded in history, at the request of the then-President of Chile, Gabriel Gonzalez-Videla, the ancient moai was sent as a "gift" to La Serena in 1952 in gratitude. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We all walked through the city to a park in the market and were then delivered back to the ship. The evening was spent at a farewell dinner with our lovely new friends (sorry, Gunnar and Marit; we missed you guys in the picture, but we will find our way to Tromsø). We will miss everyone, but new friendships have been made for when our paths cross again. Fun facts: One of the strongest earthquakes registered was in La Serena at 9.2 (we later found out there was a stronger one at 9.5 in Puerto Natales) Economic activity in Coquimbo is growing, including mining (copper, gold, silver, coal), fishing, and tourism. La Serena is the second oldest city in Chile. Day 75 - Valparaíso, Chile This morning was disembarkation day for our fellow guests, and we had the morning to explore the city independently. We were first off to make the most of it and jumped on the shuttle bus to be transported to the port terminal and closer to the city. As we were dropped off, we were instructed to pass through a hidden door in the port. It was all so mysterious, but we popped out into the city and could explore it on foot; this is a video of re-entering the dock later in the day. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Our priority was a haircut; our last one was in Canada, so we were excited! We passed a barber as we walked. The young kids had the same priority, so it was bursting with a queue, so we planned to pop back on our return. We just roamed the streets. It was Saturday and market day, so it buzzed with locals and vendors selling everything. We loved wandering around, enjoying a morning coffee, and chatting with all the locals. Everyone was friendly and loved to stop for a chat and a picture, especially the men at the fish market. We had a hoot. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Today, we're sampling some local Chilean food. We stumbled upon a food truck corner with a great setup, so we popped in and supported a few, along with our first empanadas; they all loved having some Aussie visitors, so we kept busy capturing the moments. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We stopped in at the terminal for a tidy-up at the barber's. They were fantastic and trimmed our hair with perfection for USD 6. We left them with a little extra as we walked out feeling ten years younger and refreshed. The Pole to Pole guests and transit passengers were all treated to an afternoon winery tour and lunch, so we were excited. We were whisked away with a local guide and his lovely family, who happened to be Aussies from Chile. We spent the afternoon catching up and reminiscing on the Aussie way of life; we loved it. The winery we visited was Casas del Bosque, which translates to 'Houses of the Forest'. It is Chile's No. 5 wine producer. The wine region is Casablanca, only 30 minutes from Valparaiso, and it could compete with the best. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole It was world-class, and the food and wine were exceptional. We finally got to try our first Pisco Sour; next time, we will skip the syrup; we love our drinks dry and sour. We all enjoyed a slow lunch, relishing the afternoon in the fresh country air. We enjoyed escaping into this natural wonder for the afternoon, basking in the sun and learning about Chilean wines, which were very impressive. A special thank you to Daniel from DSH Wines for organising the winery experience and the special treat to take home. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Around 7 pm, we were delivered back to the ship to prepare for the new segment; we had about 400 new friends. We are looking forward to the final leg of the three-month cruise, which will involve exploring the South of Chile and arriving in Antarctica. Day 76 & 77 - At Sea, Chilean Coast, South Pacific Ocean The last two days of 'Week 11' were spent at sea, cruising the Chilean coast and approaching the channels and majestic fjords. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole It was a great two days relaxing and enjoying the peaceful sea days. Wayne and I love these in-between days, although they are straightforward to fill with meeting new passengers, catching up with fellow pole polers, and enjoying meals. We also love having fresh flowers in our room; they brighten up our days at sea. All passengers are busy preparing for Antarctica, settling in for their new voyage and booking excursions. We hope we are lucky to win the kayaking (approximately 20-40 passengers will be selected) and snow walks during our landings. We have many passengers at 400 and only limited spots for these experiences; of course, we hope Mother Nature is also on our side. Fingers crossed. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Join us next week for more adventures in Chile as we explore the South.

Inca History, Colonial Highlights & the Panama Canal - Ecuador, South America In week ten of our 13-week bucket list Pole to Pole cruise on the MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions , we embark on the West coast of South America (Note: Peru was cancelled due to COVID restrictions; if the ship had one positive case, she would have been quarantined for two weeks). Day 64 - Manta, Ecuador 'Week ten' kicks off with Country 59. Welcome to Ecuador. On our way this morning, the ship was surrounded by a pod of dolphins, a lovely warm welcome to Ecuador. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We arrived early in the afternoon in Manta, a popular beach destination in Ecuador, home to 200,000 residents and the second largest port city in Ecuador. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The beaches were sandy and vast along the coast, the city was clean, and the locals were just as we were. With smiles, waves, and hellos at every opportunity, the people of Ecuador warmed our hearts. We felt the natural vibe today and opted for the paid excursion to a nearby forest. A small group of us were on the bus, heading 45 minutes out of the city to the enchanted Pacoche Forest. We passed through rural villages where 'The Montecristi' is generationally sourced, prepared, and handmade. The Montecristi is known to most of us as the 'Panama Hat'. We have learned a significant 'fun fact' this week: the hats are actually from and made in Ecuador, referred to as 'The Montecristi', a small village in Ecuador (near Manta) where they are hand-crafted by artisans. One hat with the finest straw can take up to three months and sell for over $1k. As we passed through the villages, you could feel the locals' warmth and pride in their homes and environment; all were spotless and uncluttered. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole From Manta to Pacoche, you experience three distinct microclimates: a semi-arid desert with expansive beaches and a transition area of dry forest, with vegetation to enter a misty, humid jungle. Pacoche is a National Reserve natural wonder with a unique regional flora and fauna diversity. We are joined by a local, national naturist who guides us through the hidden gems while commenting on all flora and fauna. We enjoyed the calmness of the forest and the fresh, misty air as we completed a 45-minute trek, listening intently for the unique Howler Monkeys, home to about 900 monkeys. We were mesmerised as we heard their roar below through the forest. We were lucky to see them feeding in the treetops. The territorial roar of the Howler Monkey is said to be the loudest sound made by any land animal in the world; it was quite an eerie experience. It was a very insightful trek with our guide, Rinaldo. He was born and bred in the region, and his love for natural wonders shone through. We picked up lots of fun facts about the healing qualities of many plants and the not-so-healing qualities of some that can lead to the bitter end. As dusk and the mist settled in, we were back on the bus to the ship. We were all delighted with the lunchbox we were gifted with local goodies. They were all delicious, especially the banana crisps, a local Ecuadorian banana, and the chocolate! This evening, we sailed away from our first destination in Ecuador, Manta; it's always lovely to sail away from a sea of city lights. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Fun Facts: Ecuador is a major exporter of bananas, coffee and chocolate. The construction of the Panama Canal caused an excellent demand for toquilla straw hats from Ecuador because of their superb sun protection. The hat became internationally known in Panama, and people began to call it the 'Panama Hat' even though it originated in Ecuador. Ecuador is also home to the smallest hummingbird in the world, the 'Bee Hummingbird,' which is 3-5cm in height. The Montecristi hat is known to the world as the Panama hat, but it is the Montecristi in Ecuador. Hat production is commonly generational; one person goes to the forest to collect the straw, another dries the straw, and one makes the hat. The process is all by hand. Ecuador is home to the tagua tree, which produces the corozo nut. It is an ivory nut that, when fresh, you can eat and drink from, like a mini coconut; once dried, it becomes hard and is used to make buttons; they are very durable. It is much more friendly and sustainable than using elephant tusks and plastic. Day 65 - Puerto Bolivar & Machala, Ecuador Ecuador and its beautiful people are winning us over! It was a magical day exploring another beautiful pocket of Ecuador. This morning, I explored the local cities, starting with the port town of Puerto Bolivar and then Machala, home to 250,000. We started with a visit to the local market in Puerto Bolivar, which is full of fresh produce, butchers, and all essentials. A regional hotspot for the locals to enjoy coffee and lunch while they grocery shop, the market was filled with locals and the tunes of local music. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We roamed around, meeting all the stallholders. We loved checking out the local foods and meeting the lovely people. This was followed by a short bus trip to Machala, where we were welcomed with a cultural dance show and then could peruse the market of more local goodies; we couldn't pass up the opportunity to purchase the chocolate they are very well known for, being spoilt with samples of the coffee they produce too, we loved supporting them. We returned with a bag of goodies, a beautiful hand-painted hat for both of us, some delicious-smelling soaps, and a few gifts. We loved how each stall had a student from an English-speaking school describing the goods; we loved the energy and helping them converse in our mother language. Wayne didn't pass up the opportunity to dance and joined the crew, who shared their local talents of the Pasillo dance. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Next, we visited the municipal centre, where we experienced more cultural shows, more Pasillo dancing, and the incredible talents of the Ecuadorians. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole After this, we visited a park surrounded by friendly locals and could enjoy a freshly made cocktail; a mojito was our drink of choice, and Wayne and I felt at home; it was even on the house. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We were continually impressed with their cleanliness and pride in their city; the streets were impeccable, and you could feel the love for visitors to their wonderful city. Everyone loved to chat and take a picture to capture our visit; it was so heartwarming. It was a morning of positive energy, smiles, and moments with the beautiful souls of Machala, a city with which we fell in love. Thank you for having us and welcoming us into your world. Our guide shared his love for his home with us, and we left with a bounce in our step and very warm hearts. Fun facts: Puerto Bolivar is one of the world's most prominent shipment points for bananas, most of them destined for Europe; about 80% of Ecuador's banana production is shipped through these port facilities Ecuador's currency is the US dollar. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Day 66 - Guayaquil, Ecuador Ecuador's incredibly kind and friendly people have continued to capture our hearts. We are grateful we had the opportunity to visit Guayaquil, our last destination in Ecuador. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We are smitten with only three destinations in this magical country, an undiscovered gem in Latin America. Docking in this morning, we were surrounded by the greenest mangroves on the edge of a large city, encapsulating 3.2 million Ecuadorians. It could easily have been the Capital City, which I believe was initially in the running with Quito. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We couldn't miss the opportunity of being surrounded by the locals again; the energy they share with the world around them is infectious. So we opted for the 'City highlights' excursion, which was also included, so there was no additional cost. Most of us opted for the same, so we were all packed into the buses for a half-day trip around Guayaquil. First was the Notre Dame-style cathedral in the city's heart, and the park, which you could nearly mistake for a zoo. It was full of Iguanas roaming around and turtles and fish populating the pond. It was wonderful. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Following this, we had a short walk to another square, where we were in awe of the gracious architecture; the buildings were stunning. As we walked, we were accompanied by the local police on bikes, not due to safety concerns, but more of a hospitable approach welcoming us to their city. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The rest of the passengers visited a museum, so this was our perfect opportunity to sneak away and experience life in Ecuador. We found a nearby coffee shop and quickly ordered a local coffee, which was delicious, another of their primary exports. Our lovely friend Alex, a local policeman accompanying the tour, also joined us for a coffee, and the charming cafe owner gifted us her homemade cake, which we all relished; it was divine! After 15 minutes of freedom, we returned to join the tour and continued learning about Guayaquil's history. Our guide, Allan, led us to a beautiful beachside esplanade and another, where we chatted with the locals and captured moments. We then wandered into the old Spanish town. You instantly felt like you were back in Europe; the vibe was inspiring with the bright, colourful buildings, art galleries and boutique hotels. After spending the morning in Guayaquil, we were ready to add this to our list. We would love to come back and explore more and support all the local restaurants, cafes and bars. Ecuador is a hidden gem; you are guaranteed to leave a piece of yourself in this beautiful, warm and gentle part of the world. Fun facts: Ecuador has a population of 18 million; both Quito and Guayaquil have approximately 3 million Ecuador is the first country to give rights to nature—you can be imprisoned for harming or capturing a protected species. Guayaquil's main exports are Cacao beans, seaport services, bananas, and oil. Ecuador cacao beans were Queen Elizabeth II's first choice for making chocolate for the royal family. Recently, Ecuador started producing high-quality chocolate that is sold at a premium. Guayaquil is the gateway to the Galapagos Islands. Colombia and Ecuador have the world's highest number of bird species. As we sailed away this evening, a beautiful sky joined us, with the local fisherman feeding the birds to bid us farewell. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Day 67, 68, 69 & 70 - At Sea, South Pacific Ocean After a magical start to the week exploring Ecuador, we set sail for four days to make our way to Chile, bypassing Peru after some stringent COVID restrictions on cruise ships. We used this time to share the love of Ecuador on social media, help the local businesses, and thank them for their warm hospitality and beautiful products. Sea days are always full of dining; here is a selection of the meals we enjoyed over the four days at sea in Lindstrom. One evening, we were treated to champagne and pizza for the Pole to Polers, which, of course, is always a welcome addition, and it is nice to enjoy some new cuisines. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Afternoons were filled with the beautiful voice and music of the pianist, the lovely Julio from Brazil. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We celebrated special anniversaries, birthdays, and dinners with our wonderful fellow passengers in the lovely Lindstrom, sharing travel, life stories, laughter and creating friendships; it was always inspiring. On one of the days, the ship came across a whale carcass. They slowed down and inched closer for us all to observe the bird life. It was pretty eerie and brutal to forget the stench. It is always sad when we come across them, but the circle of life continues. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We were also treated to a pre-dinner show one evening with the dolphins dancing around the ship; they were everywhere, and it was gorgeous! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole During our sea days, we were followed down the Peruvian coast by extraordinary sunsets that filled the sky with magnificent pastels. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Fun fact: Cheers in Norwa y, 'Skål ' has a fascinating back story. It derives from thousands of years before the Vikings and refers to actual skulls with the top cut off, used as a drinking vessel to drink from. Thanks to our fellow Norwegian friends for the fun fact.

Rocky Mountaineer - Two Days Does the Rocky Mountaineer luxury train trip through the Canadian Rockies live up to the hype? Well, yes and no. Let's start with the 'Yes'; travelling in Gold Leaf, with its upper deck and glass ceiling, offers stunning views. It's a bucket list item, although it depends on your age. Rocky Mountaineer Train Let me explain why this train trip has lost some of its shine. We took the 'First Passage to the West' trip, which is marketed as 'Canada's favourite Rocky Mountain getaway. Come for the views; stay for the hot springs.' Rocky Mountaineer Train Current pricing is CAD 5,400 for two people, AUD 6,000, or AUD 3,000 daily. Does this deliver the value of a seven-night Alaskan cruise on a premium cruise line, which is currently around the same price? No. Let's be honest. This is a bucket list item. The average age is 70+, so the value does not matter. We took the Vancouver to Banff Eastbound route. On day one , you must arrive at the station between 6.45 and 7.15 am for an 8.00 am start. It has a self-service coffee station; sorry, not a barrister in sight. Stroll outside the train, and capture some beautiful photos before the crowds arrive. By crowds, we mean that depending on the train's length (we had nearly 20 carriages), each wagon seats approximately 60 people. From the onboard literature, the maximum recorded was 1,300+ passengers. The journey starts with an all-aboard call, with a bagpiper playing, which was unique and special. Here is where the first hiccup started: As we realised the guests' ages, we waited in the rain while the first person was assisted onto the train and transferred upstairs by the internal lift while 60 people queued up in the rain to board the carriage. It would have been more efficient to have this guest wait in the golf buggy until the queues had waned or board the guests needing assistance before boarding. Yes, the carriages are divine. They are replacing the Gold Leaf rolling stock, so we luckily scored one of the ten carriages. These include upgraded fixtures and finishes, and are simply luxurious and beautiful. Once boarded, you walk up the circular staircase (memories of the golden age of air travel with the onboard lounges on the top deck 747). I'm not sure how you can select a seat. However, your travel agent may ensure you are allocated seats with an entire glass pane. Unlike ours, we were assigned seats with a substantial joint between windows. At $3,000 per day, I want that whole view experience. The seats are simply divine. They are fully adjustable, with fine plush leather, a cushioned headrest, ample leg room, and the people in front of you, when they recline, will not encroach on your space. The service team of four is impressive, considering it is shared over two levels, the bottom for dining and the top for seating. The train leaves at 8:00 am, and the adventure begins at 8:00 am with an overview of the facilities from the ever-attentive team. The dining room downstairs can only handle half the passengers, so the carriage is split into two groups for dining. The first sitting starts at 8:30 am, the second at 108:30 a.m. Don't stress; a made-to-order pastry and beverages are served at 10:00 am while the first group enjoys breakfast downstairs in the lovely dining cart. The journey builds like a crescendo, starting with views of a working city. It moves through the suburbs, onto the plains, and slowly reaches the mountains. Breakfast was good. Remember, each carriage has its dedicated kitchen, so they cook for 60 people per carriage. Don't expect fine dining; it's banquet-style, where everyone's orders are taken and delivered as dishes are prepared. The tables are shared, four to a table, so you'll get to meet and talk to great people from all walks of life. Take some time to enjoy the first part of the journey. The crew will give you just the right amount of information on the landscape as you travel through it. Rocky Mountaineer Train Spend time on the open-air platform downstairs; we loved the experience and feeling part of nature and landscapes as you speed by. However, the views are better from your seats on the upper floor. Rocky Mountaineer Train The bar opens at 10:00 am, and let's say we took the opportunity at 10:00 to enjoy a finely made cocktail while relaxing and watching the world slowly pass by our window. We didn't particularly like the complimentary wines, so we opted for a beautiful, reasonably priced French Chablis. However, at this point, I'm confused about why Rocky Mountaineer persists with below-average wines (average $15 per bottle) when Canada produces some excellent wines. You are given a unique lunch menu and choose your options daily. All meals are locally sourced from areas throughout the train trip. We found listening closely to the crew's recommendations essential to ensure you enjoy the best dishes. A freshly cooked cookie is served around 4 pm, a nice touch. The train rolls into Kamloops at 7:30 pm, and passengers board the buses. The journey takes about 20 minutes. The wait is very long; by the time you get to your hotel room, it's typically 8:30 pm. One major disappointment was that you could not select your hotel. Our hotel didn't have a restaurant or room service, so if you had the midday lunch, it's now 8.30 pm with no options to 8.30 pm, you have a very early start the next day. The accommodation was disappointing; we stayed at Fairfield Inn & Suites Kamloops (a 2-star hotel), which, in our opinion, does not offer Gold Leaf service at this price point. Day two is where the adventure truly starts. Another early start with the bus picking us up at 5.45 am. Today, we decided to skip breakfast and catch up with a nap at 6:45 am when we board the train. Although the day starts with magical scenery, you must take turns napping. On this day, we spent more time outside in the open-air viewing area, which was awe-inspiring. Many new friendships were made while enjoying the fresh mountain air and the journey. Rocky Mountaineer Train Using one of the tips below, we scored a table just for ourselves while sipping a beautiful French Chablis and even slowing the meal service. We could not fault the service. The team was terrific! The train stops outside Lake Louise for about 30 minutes to offload passengers. Unfortunately, you are behind the mountain, so don't expect any lake views. We were very disappointed with this, as one of the reasons we booked this train trip was because we understood we would also visit Lake Louise, which might have been careless on our behalf, a misunderstanding of the route. We're now down to the home stretch and will arrive in Banff exhausted after two very long days. Rocky Mountaineer Train We also waited another 30 minutes for the bus to load and drive us to our hotel, which was an 8-minute walk; it would have been nice to have been offered the walking option. By this time, it's 8:30 pm, and in Banff, that's 8:30 pm. Only one thing: everything is nearly closed, and most restaurants close at 9 pm. Banff is suffering from over-tourism, with a population of 8,000 receiving up to one million visitors per month in Summer. The locals we talked to in Banff gave us the best advice: leave and stay in Canmore, which is only 20 minutes from Banff, has better dining and views and no tourists. Insiders Tips Most passengers miss parts due to sleeping because of the 12-hour days, so grab naps in the morning; the best views are on both afternoons. It's a diesel train, so bring some wipes, as your face will be covered in soot from the engine when using the viewing area. Ensure you have sunscreen if you're standing outside in the viewing area, as there will be plenty of sun on both days. There is always a queue with only two toilets and sixty-plus older people, so avoid the pre- and post-lunch rush between 12 pm and 3 pm. Getting a table for two at lunch? Two bench seats at the rear of the dining area seat only two people, which is ideal for romantics like Sally and me. Make sure you find out your eating time, walk down 5 minutes before opening, and then request one of those tables—boom, a romantic table for two. Book a restaurant before getting into Banff; even our hotel restaurant was closed at 8.30 pm. Our verdict We wait until 8:30 pm. It's up to you to make the decision. We all have different travel styles, needs, and wants. Definitely, 'Yes' if you're looking for a bucket list item and have the means, do it. The Rocky Mountains are mesmerising. If you're younger, we recommend considering your options and taking an Alaskan cruise ; it will provide you with a much better value experience.

Daily Food & Wine - One visit Daily Food & Wine in Skopje met our expectations of exceptional food and wine. Daily Food & Wine - Skopje The restaurant is located within a shopping mall. What it lacks in views, it makes up for in delicious, fresh food and high-quality meals. We visited our dear friend Nikola , whom we met in Mavrovo at the beautiful Mia's Favorite Hotel . He was home in Skopje for a few days. It is always lovely to catch up with friends we meet throughout our travels. We needed our meat fix, and we were impressed. The beefsteak was cooked to perfection. Wayne whetted his appetite with a piece of home and ordered the Australian sirloin. The staff was very friendly, and the restaurant was buzzing with locals, which is always a positive sign. It has an excellent menu with a spread of choices for everyone's appetites, complemented by a long list of local and international wines, all at very affordable prices. Daily Food & Wine - Skopje

Restaurant Tramonto - Two Visits Sometimes, just everything clicks with a restaurant, and magic happens. Restaurant Tramonto - Rovinj Well, that's the restaurant Tramonto. Firstly, the location is perfect for a long, lazy lunch or a prime seat at those amazing Rovinj sunsets over the Atlantic sea. Restaurant Tramonto - Rovinj The restaurant's interior is very stylish and modern, with a bit of quirkiness. Let's start with the wine selection. This restaurant has an excellent wine list—not huge, but impressive quality. Everything is over 4-stars in Vivino . Our waiter, Nikola, was fantastic. His knowledge of the wine list was extensive, and he picked a magical local bottle of Roxanich Antica 2011 . Now, we will go to the food, which exceeded our expectations. The presentation was perfect, the fresh food, and the taste sublime. Restaurant Tramonto - Rovinj My only disappointment is that we found this restaurant late during our extended two-month stay in Rovinj . This restaurant deserves to be much busier, as it outshines several other venues in Rovinj. It offers views, great food, wine, and style delivered by a passionate team, especially Nikola and Nikolina .

Nähatelier & Waschsalon Doli We stayed in Zermatt after travelling for a few months, and laundry was required without paying hotel prices. We found this local laundry around the corner, and the woman was lovely. She took a whole bag of laundry, ready for pickup the same day. We were charged for one bag, which was about 2 kilos and cost around 20 Francs, which was better than paying by piece at the hotel. We were delighted with the quality of our clean clothes and the service we received. Nähatelier & Waschsalon Doli

Join us as we cross the Atlantic for Europe on a two-week cruise with Celebrity Cruises on the Apex - The Western Europe Transatlantic. From Fort Lauderdale, Florida, to Rotterdam in the Netherlands (last-minute port change from Amsterdam). Embarking on our 16-day voyage from Fort Lauderdale, Florida, on 18 April 2023, we set our sights on Bermuda, charting a course across the Atlantic Ocean and through the storied waters of the English Channel. Crossing the Atlantic with Celebrity Cruises We explored seven countries and ten unique destinations throughout our journey, an experience we're eager to share in detail. Join us as we unravel the intricacies of life aboard the Apex during our two-week Transatlantic cruise, providing valuable insights into our Celebrity experience. Having sailed with Celebrity Cruises eight times prior, our transition to the Edge class ship marked a notable shift in our maritime adventures. Reflecting on our previous Alaskan cruise on Celebrity Eclipse , which left a lasting impression, we found that the larger capacity of the Edge class ships, accommodating nearly 3000 passengers, posed a notable adjustment. Grappling with the full occupancy, we gained valuable perspective on the dynamics of a bustling cruise experience. Our first impressions of the Apex were nothing short of captivating. As seasoned cruisers, we couldn't help but admire the ship's modern elegance—a true floating oasis. The art and sculptures adorning the vessel were remarkable, and the overall design exuded a sense of graceful sophistication. The staterooms, the heart of our temporary maritime abode, impressed us with their exquisite design, ample space, and luxurious comfort. Crossing the Atlantic with Celebrity Cruises We opted for the Sunset Verandah stateroom, a prudent choice for those seeking a tranquil retreat amid the vast expanse of the ocean. This stateroom features a spacious balcony adorned with two sunbeds and two chairs, offering unobstructed vistas of the panoramic sunset and sunrise from the stern of the ship—a coveted vantage point for indulging in the natural spectacle. Our experience in this stateroom was exceptional. It served as our private oasis, providing a serene space to unwind and immerse ourselves in the awe-inspiring beauty of the open seas. Crossing the Atlantic with Celebrity Cruises It's evident that while the onboard crew is dedicated and hardworking, the impact of understaffing on Celebrity's ships has been deeply felt, leading to a strain on service levels and the overall well-being of the crew. When a ship operates with inadequate staffing, the ability to deliver expedited service in various areas becomes increasingly challenging, often leading to prolonged wait times and congested dining venues. This can significantly detract from the guest experience, especially in high-traffic areas like restaurants. In such scenarios, dining in specialty restaurants can provide a more conducive environment for savouring your meal and receiving the level of service you expect. These venues typically offer a more intimate and attentive dining experience, mitigating the potential impact of understaffing on the overall enjoyment of your cruise. Discovering a hidden gem can elevate your culinary journey to new heights when dining on a cruise. That hidden gem was Raw on Five , the exquisite Japanese restaurant aboard the Apex. We knew we had stumbled upon something special when we walked through its doors. We were repeatedly drawn to Raw on Five, making it our go-to destination for most meals. What set this restaurant apart was the exceptional service we received and the consistently outstanding food quality. The culinary creations gracing our plates were a testament to the skill and artistry of the talented chefs behind the scenes. But there's more to this hidden gem than the sumptuous dishes it serves. We discovered that Raw on Five has a secret weapon: a vantage point that offers the most enchanting sunset views. We couldn't end our story about Raw on Five without expressing our heartfelt appreciation to the incredible team. Their dedication and warmth left a lasting impression, and it's safe to say that we miss them dearly. So, if you find yourself aboard the Apex, seeking an unforgettable dining experience, our insider's tip is to make Raw on Five your first choice. From the impeccable service to the astounding food quality and the enchanting sunset views, this Japanese restaurant is a hidden treasure waiting to be discovered. Trust us, it's an experience you won't want to miss. The Fine Cut Steakhouse , another specialty dining venue renowned for its upscale steak and seafood offerings, became our favourite dining spot during our cruise. Boasting exquisite decor and captivating sunset vistas, this establishment truly delivered a five-star dining experience. The impeccable service, complemented by the exceptional quality of the food and wines, left a lasting impression. Crossing the Atlantic with Celebrity Cruises Our preference for the Main Dining restaurant was the Tuscan Restaurant , which serves authentic southern Italian cuisine, including homemade pasta. We chose it because of the quality of the meals and seating plans. The decor was elegant, and we were always greeted warmly. We enjoyed the atmosphere. Being on the beverage package was disappointing. Each time you asked for something, it seemed unavailable and out of stock, so you were left with a minimal choice. Alternatively, you had the staff running all over the ship to find something equivalent, which was very unfair to the lovely crew. However, without it, we would have also been paying for water, like getting blood from a stone at times. In another turn of events, also due to the staffing shortages, Wayne, my hubby, at one point, walked around Eden multiple times and grabbed all the glasses left on the tables. This mishap turned positive, and we met a wonderful, mature couple who thought he was staff. There was plenty of laughter, and we ordered drinks for them. The Magic Carpet emerges as a unique floating bar in the tranquil evenings aboard the cruise ship. It is elevated an impressive 13 stories above sea level and offers unparalleled views of the vast open ocean. This remarkable platform frequently repositions along the ship's side, offering a truly immersive experience. Weather permitting, passengers can indulge in a drink while perched at the ship's edge, creating a memorable moment that perfectly encapsulates innovative design and a dash of daring adventure. Crossing the Atlantic with Celebrity Cruises A rich tapestry of entertainment offerings unfolded throughout the expansive eight days at sea, catering to diverse preferences and interests. The ship's schedule brimmed with engaging activities, showcasing preview acts for upcoming performances, elaborate cake displays, and captivating twice-nightly shows. The melodic strains of live music resonated throughout the day, enhancing the onboard ambience. At the same time, interactive sessions such as cocktail demonstrations and wine tastings added a sophisticated flair to the experience. We spent our days enjoying morning coffees in Café Al Bacio, relaxing, having indulgent dining experiences, listening to the talented musicians, and spending time with family. Crossing the Atlantic with Celebrity Cruises Crossing the Atlantic with Celebrity Cruises Crossing the Atlantic with Celebrity Cruises The impressive ly decorated cakes were displayed in the Oceanview Café, which offers buffet-style dining with multiple stations. The menu provides made-to-order breakfast and lunch, with a rotating international menu for dinner. Fear not; the tantalising cakes will indulge your senses, adding a sweet and captivating note to your dining adventure. We were fortunate to have only one questionable day at sea, during which Mother Nature provided peace around the ship as many guests navigated the wild oceans. Fortunately, after crossing the Drake Passage six times recently, we are fast becoming accustomed to such thrilling events. Crossing the Atlantic with Celebrity Cruises As our transatlantic adventure drew to a close, the allure of booking a back-to-back journey to explore the enchanting Norwegian Fjords over the coming week became increasingly irresistible. Click here as we delve into the seamless transition from one captivating voyage to another, unlocking the hidden gems of the Norwegian Fjords aboard our floating sanctuary.

Inside Passage, Bears and Aleutian Islands - Alaska Week two on our 13-week bucket list cruise to the North and South Poles on the luxury hybrid expedition ship Hurtigruten Expeditions - MS Roald Amundsen. Day Eight - Kukak Bay & Kinak Bay, Alaska We enjoyed our morning coffee on the balcony and spotted our first bear! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We quickly pulled out the binoculars and confirmed it was not a rock but a bear playing on the water's edge. We had just anchored in Kukak Bay, Katmai National Park, so we quickly geared up for our Zodiac cruise, beginning to understand this layering concept. Our Zodiac Captain Freddy took us to the bears; three bears were snacking on salmon. After 20 minutes, we continued our Zodiac cruise. We spotted a few seals, otters, bald eagles, and gigantic jellyfish while soaking up the mesmerising scenery. It was the most refreshing start to the day! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We returned to the ship for lunch and cruised to our afternoon destination, Kinak Bay. Today on the menu, we opted for Vegetarian Lasagne, and we look forward to this coming back! In mid-afternoon, we anchored in Kinak Bay and Katmai National Park. We layered up again for another Zodiac and thought we couldn't top this morning, but lo and behold, more bears, and we were able to sneak up even closer! We even saw a Mama bear with her two cubs. What a day! We had our first bear sightings in the wild and counted eight during the day. I am grateful to have purchased our Canon Binoculars (Canon 12x36 IS III) with the stabilising feature to see these magnificent creatures up close. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The ship pulled up anchor, and we were back cruising for a few hours. Then, to our surprise, we were stationed for the evening in Geographic Harbor. This made for stunning views over dinner and a quiet evening. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Day Nine - Geographic Harbour, Alaska Each day continues to surprise us! We didn't think it was possible to top yesterday's luck with all the bears. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We had an early Zodiac cruise at 9 a.m. this morning. The weather was forecast to be cold and wet, but the weather gods were on our side, and the sun shone. First up was about eight bears by the river catching salmon and playing about! It was incredible! They are so graceful as they move their gigantic bodies! You could easily sit by and watch them in their natural habitat all day. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We enjoyed the viewing for about half an hour and then continued to explore Geographic Harbour, which is so beautiful. The surroundings were gorgeous; this was the best yet! The ship was pulling up anchors today at noon, so we were back on board and enjoyed lunch with our fellow passengers and a rest for the afternoon. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We were impressed with the ship's values; our new friends Jonny and Ben educated us on some sustainability features over lunch. The vessel continues to impress us. Tonight, for dinner, we booked Restaurant Aune, another excellent restaurant with stunning views and food to match. The staff were full of conversation, and we loved getting to know more of the crew we will spend three months with on this epic journey from the North to the South Pole. This evening, we were blessed with another magical sunset. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Day Ten - Unga, Alaska We were thrilled to see yet another magical backdrop upon opening the curtains this morning. We arrived at Unga, a remote abandoned settlement also known as a ghost village, which has been reclaimed by nature and cows following the departure of its inhabitants. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Unga was believed to have a population of 116, half natives and half Russian, and the remaining family left in 1958. The cows were hiding from us, but the number of cow pats provided plenty of proof they existed. It was also a beautiful location for pictures. Thank you, Zoe, for capturing these special moments for us. We got to experience the eerie beauty of this village by being dropped off in the Zodiacs to explore for the morning. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We walked among the abandoned wooden buildings that now stand only as monuments to the community that once called this place home, taking in the stunning coastline. After one hour, we were back in the Zodiacs for a quick look at Bird Rock, smothered with seagulls; fortunately, we saw a seal sunbaking and then delivered back to the ship for a slow lunch. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole In the late afternoon, we sailed away to continue cruising and enjoy the beauty of Alaska's Aleutian Islands. Pods of whales for pre-dinner entertainment tonight, the captain slowed and turned the ship so everyone could enjoy the show. We saw about 20 whales breaching for about half an hour. Another magical day, with more delicious dining at Lindstrom! Day 11 - Dutch Harbour, Alaska The Island of Unalaska is home to the International Port of Dutch Harbor - the number one commercial fishing port in the nation and the location where 'Deadliest Catch' is filmed—a population of approximately 4,200. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Dutch Harbour is a harbour on Amaknak Island in Unalaska, Alaska. In June 1942, it was the location of the Battle of Dutch Harbour, one of the few sites in the United States to be subjected to aerial bombardment by a foreign power during World War II. We were on the first shuttle out to explore the area. The first stop was downtown, although I am not sure the name is appropriate. We came across a church, a few fisheries, and very little else. This town is definitely for working families only, as there wasn't much to see or do, and it lacked shine from our perspective. We strolled around and came across a large pod of sea otters off the pier. A giant bald eagle landed before us and then jumped back on the bus for the hotel. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Today was our online day, so we connected in the cafe's corner. The hotel had no wifi, but they had a satellite option to purchase on the island, starting at USD 25 for 1GB, followed by USD 80 for 5GB; fortunately, the speed was fast. After spending the afternoon online, we returned to the ship on foot, navigating through the port and shipping containers to prepare for dinner. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Tonight was another incredible pre-dinner show, with over 40 whales surrounding the ship. The captain stopped the ship for half an hour for everyone to enjoy the whales, ensure they had no distractions in their homes whilst they were feeding, and continue their journey. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Before dinner, the captain announced we were in for some rocky waters this evening, so be sure to take your motion sickness pills if necessary. We got through the evening unscathed and were rocked to sleep all night, but nothing too dramatic. Dinner views were also spectacular this evening; the lush green hills as we sailed by were impressive! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Day 12 & 13 - Bering Sea, Alaska Due to the low weather pressure system, we had to bypass Chuginadak and had a sea day! The ship was rocking all day; we were in the Bering Sea. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Our day started with lunch in Lindstrom, followed by an afternoon nap. We then joined our new friends Jonny and Ben for dinner; it was a night full of stories, laughter, and delicious food. This was followed by a very rough night! Fortunately, we had no motion sickness, just restless sleep. Insider's tip: choose a midship cabin when the ocean is a little on edge. Day 13 was a scheduled sea day, and we woke to another wild ocean, so it was another quiet day. We stayed horizontal to avoid motion sickness. We know to avoid the bow during these times as it can be quite an adventure. We enjoyed lunch in Lindstrom, followed by a lovely afternoon of blue skies and the sun peeking through. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We opted for Restaurant Aune for dinner as they had roast lamb, and we couldn't pass up one of our favourite meals. We had a beautiful evening dining slowly, and were happy the ocean took a breather and turned on calmer seas from 8 pm, so we were guaranteed a lovely night's sleep. We finished the evening with a birthday video call to Mum and Dad (via Facebook Messenger); it was great to catch up while we were in the middle of the Bering Sea and wish Dad a happy birthday via video. The quality was much better than we expected. Day 14 - St. Matthew Island, Alaska This morning, we were blessed with the most intense sunrise, and we didn't even need to wake up with the birds—it was 8 a.m.! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The ship anchored just off St Matthew Island in uncharted waters, accompanied by guidance from the local fishermen. St. Matthew Island is an uninhabited and remote island in the Bering Sea. It is a completely deserted island, home to voles, birds, wild grasses, and natural scenery. Excursions were all first up; we were in the second group, so at 9 am, we were on the island. Upon landing on the island, the expedition team provided us with instructions and asked us to feel free to help them remove the trash; lots of debris washed up. We were all keen to help with this beautiful initiative, and as we explored, we collected foreign items that did not belong in nature. The Hurtigruten team ensured the rubbish collected was brought back to the ship so it could be disposed of correctly when we arrived in Nome. Hurtigruten takes eco-travel to the next level, always leaving a place better than they found it, a motto of the company. They actively encourage guests to help collect washed-up waste to be recycled. As we sailed away, it was announced we had all collected over 1000 kilograms of trash to recycle. We enjoyed another lunch (yes, we are eating our way to Antarctica), soaked up the sun by the jacuzzis, and chatted with our fellow pole-to-pole friends. Our lovely friend Cath from France gifted us this gorgeous piece of art as we enjoyed an afternoon of wine. We celebrated our new friend Ben's birthday and dinner at Fredheim restaurant; we enjoy visiting the different dining venues regularly. The sun has been shining all day, and the waters have been calm, so it's a perfect day!

Tropical Waters and Remote Island Communities in the Caribbean - United States, Belize In week eight of our 13-week bucket list Pole to Pole cruise on the MS Roald Amundsen with Hurtigruten Expeditions , we embark on a new segment exploring Central America and inch closer to the Panama Canal. Day 50 - At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean, US It was a very relaxing day at sea. We were all treated to a poolside BBQ with the crew and an opportunity to catch up with our fellow Pole-to-Polers over lunch (Thank you, Jackie, for capturing the moment below). It seems the weather has been switched on, and we are now enjoying 28 degrees. This is such a dramatic change from last week with the summer wardrobe. Fortunately, we travel with our entire wardrobe, so it is easy to dress for the ever-changing weather. The bridge is open each afternoon for us to visit, pop up, and see what Mother Nature has in store for us. We travelled through a few rainstorms today, but the sun shone again within minutes. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole This evening, the Captain and officers joined us for dinner in the lovely Lindstrom; many guests also enjoyed dining with some new dinner companions. Caption TJ updated us on our progress and confirmed it is going well; we have good seas, but expect this to change. We are scheduled to dock in Miami on Thursday morning as planned. Our Captain is incredible and has the passengers' comfort as his top priority. Considering the obstacles we have faced with Hurricanes Fiona and Ian, we have been blessed. As we crossed from Canada to the US this morning and were greeted with some tumultuous waters, the weather gods were on strike, a dramatic change from the day before. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Day 51 - At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean, US A peaceful night's sleep and another relaxing sea day. We jumped online again and were busy catching up. Fortunately, lunch was back in Lindstrom à la carte (not a fan of buffets, one of the primary reasons we opted for a suite), so we enjoyed a nice bottle of Riesling and caught up with our lovely crew, more leaving in Miami, I know they are looking forward to going home after six months. Still, we will miss seeing their friendly faces each day. Thank you, Rosalie and Cesar, for the laughter and incredible service over the past month. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole This evening was pizza night, our first pizza in 50 days, so we were excited! The pizzas were delicious, fresh and crispy thin pastries. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We are just waiting for Hurricane Ian near the Bahamas. Hopefully, it continues, and we can dock tomorrow in Miami. We go to sleep hoping to wake up to the good news and praying for everyone's safety during this terrifying event of Mother Nature storming its way through Florida. Day 52 - Miami, Florida, US We made it to Miami 🇺🇸. Thank you to our fabulous Captain TJ for safely arriving through the hurricanes; you are the best. 👏 After a very comfortable evening sailing into Miami, we were up early to check our windy.com app (we are utterly addicted to watching the weather patterns worldwide). We were delighted to see we had a clear path to dock in Miami. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We arrived at the port about 10 am, only two hours from the schedule, and enjoyed the Miami city skyline from Deck 11. It was a little grey, very humid, and windy, but surrounded by calmness. We were all excited to have the day to explore after five days at sea. The 20 of us eagerly waited by the gangway from 11 am to get out and explore the vibrant city of Miami. After two hours of waiting for US customs to give us clearance, we finally raced off to make the most of our five hours on shore. We jumped in a taxi and were given $45 to drive the short 10 minutes from the pier to Miami's design district; we were keen to shop! Our taxi driver wouldn't start the meter, and we knew it was $20, so we quickly exited the cab and booked an Uber, which was super efficient, beautiful, clean, and friendly. Lesson learned: always use Uber! We arrived at the Rodeo Drive of Miami, which features five-story designer stores, and enjoyed quality shopping and a few treats. It is our wedding anniversary in a few days, so it is a great excuse! After strolling through the streets in 30 degrees and high humidity, Wayne and Sal were done shopping, and it was cocktail time. We jumped into an Uber with the friendliest driver from Venezuela. He had been in Miami for four years and was also celebrating an anniversary on 1st October. He recommended South Beach, Lincoln Road, to relax for the afternoon. We strolled the same streets back in 2014, this time avoiding the vodka shots while shopping. We came across a Ritz Carlton with an excellent restaurant by the pool to while away the last few hours of our time in Miami. The restaurant served delicious cocktails and snacks. Our lovely waiter, David, ensured we were cared for and shared some stories about this vibrant city. Unfortunately, we still had to be back on the ship at 6 pm because the pier was closed, even though we had to stay overnight at the port. One bite-size nugget he shared was that 3 miles out of Miami are international waters, so casinos can open on cruises shortly after departing. However, our ship is casino-free (not bad), and we stayed in port for the evening for provisions following delays due to Hurricane Ian. We were cautious of the time, so we were back in an Uber for the ship. The Ubers in Miami are super-sized! But all our drivers were super friendly and had lovely, clean, modern cars. We made it just in time and entered a ship full of new passengers, which was a little strange after having the boat to ourselves for five days. However, it was full of an energetic vibe and a younger demographic; the next ten days would be fun. This is the beginning of a new segment: Central America, and the infamous Panama Canal is next on everyone's bucket list. When I arrived at Lindstrom for dinner this evening, the restaurant was buzzing; it was nice to see the vibrant energy. An announcement and notice were provided this evening of a slight change to the new segment, and Lighthouse Reef (Half Moon Caye) in Belize would no longer be possible; due to time constraints, we need to stay on schedule and meet our other destinations; we were happy to hear Belize city was still on the list so no dramas, the life of an expedition cruise, you roll with it, and we are very excited about the journey ahead. Being in port for the evening, we were not only guaranteed a very peaceful and uninterrupted sleep to prepare for the adventures ahead as we sailed to Belize, but we were also blessed to have a fantastic view of Miami from our balcony, with a calming sunset over the cityscape. Day 53 - At Sea, Gulf of Mexico This morning, we were welcomed by the Miami city skyline and enjoyed the morning in the sunshine and the last of the Miami views. Let's take a little tour around our suite: an Expedition Suite, ME category. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole This afternoon, we had all our provisions loaded to make our way to South America and Antarctica. Sail away was during the afternoon; we all bid farewell to the States and embarked on a fresh new journey to Central America. Belize is up next. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole As we sailed away, we were grateful for being on Hurtigruten Expeditions and a hybrid ship, protecting our environment after seeing the neighbouring vessels and their emissions into the city sky. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole It was interesting to arrive in new waters and see the dramatic change in Miami to an enchanting turquoise area of blues as we sailed away. We were excited about the latest destinations and the magnificent waters we would experience. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole As usual on all new segments, we were welcomed by the Captain and crew; this time, we were treated to Bollinger champagne 🍾 (it must be the arrival of the travel writers and social media influencers for this leg). Of course, Wayne and I snuck in a couple of extra pre-dinner drinks to celebrate the arrival of our new Captain. It's nice to see his friendly face back again on the ship. This was followed by some sightings of bottlenose dolphins who sailed with us briefly at the ship's bow, and we were lucky enough to capture a few short videos. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Relaxing dinner in Lindstrom followed by a peaceful evening enjoying the calm blue waters by a crescent moonlight. Day 54 - At Sea, Gulf of Mexico Happy Anniversary to us! Sixteen years of magical moments and travels around the world. We are blessed to have found each other and to be on this epic journey of unwrapping the layers of the world together. I had fun collecting all these beautiful moments to surprise hubby this morning. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We went straight to lunch today as we sailed towards Belize to enjoy a romantic lunch and were truly spoiled by our beautiful team in Lindstrom. Upon arriving back at our suite, we were overwhelmed; we had a fabulous colourful display to celebrate our special day. Thank you, Francis! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole We were also very grateful for the lovely surprise from our fellow Aussie passengers, Mary and Steve, who were so thoughtful in gifting us with a bunch of gorgeous fresh white roses and reminded us of the time we left Wayne's sunglasses ashore back in Alaska (fortunately we found them again, and now we have the glass chains to keep them secure around this neck)—a pleased anniversary to Mary & Steve's daughter, celebrating 1st October. Thank you to Judit, Francis, and our beautiful housekeeping team for the colourful display of love hearts scattered around our room; even Sami, the Seal, was spoilt. Also, thank you for a bottle of our favourite champagne, Bollinger; it was also our favourite on our wedding day. It has been a day filled with love, champagne and surprises. The excellent Hurtigruten crew went above and beyond to make us feel spoiled and loved. Upon arriving for dinner, our table was full of love. Thank you, Raymond and our gorgeous Lindstrom crew. We even had a serenade from our lovely waiter, Armani (Arman); it was an evening of magic. Thank you, Judit, Zolt, and the entire crew, for sharing our special day and the delicious cake. Day 55 - At Sea, Caribbean Sea We love sea days! They're the perfect excuse to wake up naturally, open the curtains, and enjoy the morning sky, which has been a beautiful shade of blue lately! We had noticed the ship had slowed this morning and was nearly stopped. We were curious why we were arrested in the depths of the Caribbean Sea. During our morning coffee, an announcement was made to satisfy our curiosity. It is a ritual for the expedition team to reposition into the warm waters from the icy cold waters to dip in the deep blue waters from the expedition deck, and the passengers were invited to join. The ship came to a complete standstill, locked in her position via the DP, and everyone raced to their cabins to quickly change. As we arrived on Deck 3, it seemed no one would miss the opportunity to have a deep-sea swim off a cruise ship in the middle of the Caribbean Sea. The team had the Zodiacs out to provide a platform for the passengers to jump, dive or slide into the deep sea currents with a cosy, warm temperature of 30 degrees. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Wayne was excited to try out the warm waters, especially after his arctic swim of 2 degrees, which dramatically changed in only a few weeks! The afternoon was spent meeting some of the Hurtigruten team who have joined us for this leg, followed by another dolphin sighting; thank you, Anders, for the heads-up and the bonus of a Brown Booby bird landing. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole The evening was low-key, and we enjoyed chatting with our new fellow passengers in Lindstrom, who all joined the ship in Miami. We all retired into our suites, ensuring our cabin lights were all dimmed and we didn't disorient any birds migrating overnight. It was an early night as we were excited about our anchor side tomorrow in Belize, a new destination! HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Day 56 - Belize City, Belize 'Week eight' closes with a new milestone achieved. On 'day 56', we visited our '56th country', Belize, in Central America. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Belize City is the largest city, was once the capital of former British Honduras (as Belize was then named), and is part of the Commonwealth. It is home to about 60,000 people and hosts the second-largest barrier reef in the world—the Great Barrier Reef in Australia is the first. The city was almost destroyed in October 1961 when Hurricane Hattie swept ashore. It was the capital of British Honduras until the government was moved to the new capital of Belmopan in 1970. Whisked away in the first tender, which the local citizens operate to Belize City, to travel in the luxury of an air-conditioned bus for our excursion to Altun Ha, an ancient Mayan city, an archaeological site and ruins located in the Belize District about 50 kilometres north of Belize City. Believed to be from BC900 and discovered in the early 1960s, it is now a popular tourist destination, and one of the temples has also become the logo of Belize's leading brand of beer, "Belikin". Our warm and friendly host, Anni, kept us entertained and educated on the country of Belize. She filled us in on the nuggets we needed to know as we drove the hour to the site. I have shared some fun Belize facts below. Upon arriving at Altun Ha, we were offered the option of joining a group with a tour guide or roaming independently and meeting back at the bus; we opted for the independent option. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole I love to take the opportunity to capture some fun photos and enjoy the site's peaceful nature; it is also perfect for grabbing those uninterrupted pics. Thank you to our expedition team host, who was very kind in offering to capture a few moments for us; the pictures are fantastic. After an hour, we were ready to escape the scorching heat and were back in the bus's AC. Shortly after we were all transported back to the port, we were keen on exploring more of the city. Unfortunately, all the shops and dining establishments were closed in the harbour. There were no recommendations to visit the city on your own; it had suffered greatly from the cruise industry going on hold for a few years and restarting slowly, so we put safety first and headed back to the ship. A special thank you to Keith, our fantastic chef in Lindstrom, for the extra servings of vegetables the past few days; I am incredibly grateful for the clean greens! Fun facts: Belize only export the juice from their Valencia oranges, as the orange rind is green, most people think they are not ripe due to the colour Cacao beans were the national currency back in the Mayan days. The Mayans and the Aztecs believed (and perhaps some people still do) that chocolate was a gift from the gods Mayans make up 11% of the current population today Belize's favourite hot pepper sauce, Marie Sharp's, is award-winning on the international hot sauce circuit. Exported to many parts of the world 40% of Belize's GDP is from tourism, mainly due to the cruise industry Eco-friendly country, they are earnest about protecting their wildlife; all species are protected, and they are home to crocodiles, five breeds of large cats, monkeys, manatees, southern stingrays, black-collared hawk, whale sharks and Parrots, to name a few The tropical country is only 180 miles in length Creole is the local language, a mashup of African and British words. English is the official language, followed by Spanish. HX Hurtigruten Pole to Pole Join us for 'week nine' as the ship embarks on yet another new segment, the Central America leg, and as we inch closer to another bucket list experience, the Panama Canal.